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"Spirited" Driving Tips for a Turbocharged LGT


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I could use some tips/instructions/links on the proper way to drive a Turbo-charged car. The turbo-lag is kinda annoying. I have not been able to get the right gear at the right time to get the industry-claimed ultra-fast acceleration. Magazines claim this car does 0-60 in 5.x seconds, however, it feels kinda dull below 4,000 rpms. Yes, it has premium 93 Octane gasoline & the car has only 107 miles...purchased it 3 days ago w/ 20 miles on the odometer.

 

I admit that I've lost practice driving a stick-shift. The car died on me a couple times already...yes it was pretty embarrasing...:confused::icon_conf

 

I am not looking to street-race, just enjoy some spirited driving. Thank you for your help!

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This engine is quiet... easy to let it die when getting into first gear.

 

Remeber to take it easy on the engine for now... break it in a bit.

 

This is an AWD car... dont be afraid to rev it a little higher when pulling from a stop. But PLEASE learn that clutch first. Dont want to burn that up. Also, don't be afraid to downshift to get a little more speed when passing... with the higher rpms you will be more prone to get into boost and you will then feel that acceleration that you want. If you pass in too high of a gear it will bog and turbo lag will take forever.

 

Once you break it in, purchase a COBB Acessport which will allow you to flash the engine computer and unlock some hidden power. With some easy exhaust work (downpipe), you will be able to do a stage II flash and open up a BEAST. I mean stupid fast. Take it easy for now... but know... there is power under that hood... you just have to find it.

 

Also, a company called TDC Tuning (member on this board) offers custom tuned COBB flashes that are based specifically on your modifications. These will make the powerband even better and optimize your setup. This requires the COBB acessport to begin with.

 

You chose a great car. The speed will come.

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Ease up, you'll get it. Plus your car is still in the break-in period. 2. Its hot out!! The car is not going to perform when its heat soaked. I am sure its down on a lot of power.

Get some intercooler spray. For a very short solution, you can put a bunch of crussed ice on the intercooler.

 

Get an access port, open up the exhaust(downpipe/uppipe) to help remove more heat from the engine. (see cobb stage 2).

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I could use some tips/instructions/links on the proper way to drive a Turbo-charged car. The turbo-lag is kinda annoying. I have not been able to get the right gear at the right time to get the industry-claimed ultra-fast acceleration. Magazines claim this car does 0-60 in 5.x seconds, however, it feels kinda dull below 4,000 rpms. Yes, it has premium 93 Octane gasoline & the car has only 107 miles...purchased it 3 days ago w/ 20 miles on the odometer.

 

I admit that I've lost practice driving a stick-shift. The car died on me a couple times already...yes it was pretty embarrasing...:confused::icon_conf

 

I am not looking to street-race, just enjoy some spirited driving. Thank you for your help!

max acceleration from a stop shouldn't be a part of spirited driving unless you are street-racing, track-racing, or trying to outrun a tsunami. take your time getting to learn your clutch....you can't learn a new clutch in three days.

 

or do what the other posters suggested and risk voiding your warranty on your brand new car. either way.

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First off, let me just reinforce what CasopoliS said, go easy for now!

You want to keep the engine under 4000 RPM for the first 1000 miles or so, don't go all out just quite yet or you'll feel it in a bad way later down the road.

 

That said, the car is somewhat of a challenge to get "just right". There's almost no obvious clutch engagement point, and I to have to admit I've stalled it a couple times (I've been driving a stick for 9 years!).

 

If you're really looking for the 0-60 times, give it some gas and (gently) drop the clutch. 4000 RPM is a good starting RPM, be ready to shift soon! I've got a quicktime video of my car with a 0-60 time of about 5 seconds (going down a slight decline though).

 

Generally speaking if you want to fight turbo lag in normal driving, plan ahead. If you can downshift before you're ready to acceleration that will be a big help. If you downshift then floor it immediately after don't expect a whole lot. Similarly, if you downshift, let your foot of the gas for a couple seconds, and then floor it again lag will get you.

 

The important thing is to have some RPMs in the engine the the turbo's turning before you give it gas.

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I've been driving manual transmissions for about 18 years now... and I'm almost afraid to say it... but I've killed the engines numerous times when I first got my LGT 5MT. :icon_redf

 

The clutch feel is very vague for me.

 

I'm not very satisfied with the performance between 1000 and 2500 rpm. I find myself driving between 3000 and 5000 rpm on an everyday basis. The engine and car is very quiet so it's easy to do. Other "performance" type cars are usually quite loud in this rpm range. My buddy has an S4 and it is LOUD even cruising on the freeway in top gear.

 

Don't be afraid to drive in 4th gear on the freeway. :icon_bigg Your gas mileage will suffer but I bought it so I'm going to drive it!

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Please avoid full-throttle acceleration until you have finished the break-in period. After break-in, you can play, but still try to be gentle.

 

This car has very little turbo lag compared to many (particularly older) turbo cars. Peak torque occurs somewhere around 3,600 RPM and stays high out through 5,600 or so, when it starts tapering off. The key to avoiding turbo lag is having the turbo already spooled up when you need maximum thrust. To spool the turbo, higher RPM is not enough, there must be higher RPM and load on the engine. This generates a large volume of exhaust gases that spins up the turbo.

 

Where this car really shines is midrange passing. Let's say you are going to pass a slower car on a two lane road. Try downshifting one or two gears down so your engine is turning at least 3,500 RPM just a few seconds before you pass and then step on it. Upshift when you get to 6,000 RPM or so and keep your foot in it. You will soon learn how the car feels "on boost".

 

From a standstill, a turbo is at somewhat of a disadvantage compared to a large-displacement normally-aspirated engine. You have to get the car on boost as quickly as you can. Rev the car out to 3,500 - 4,000 and gently release the clutch, then floor it. You only have one shift (into 2nd) to take you up to 60 mph.

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A 6MT almost seems redundant unless 6th was a dedicated OD.

 

Interesting point about the engine needing some load in order to get the turbo powered up. I too am learning about the right way to exploit it. I have not driven a MT in about 15 years but it all came back to me like riding a bike except for stalling out a few too many times in the beginning. Now I can drive the Spec. seemlessly in "normal" traffic velocities. However, I'm having a big problem with medium hard upshifts.

 

These medium hard upshifts of mine are currently herky jerky. I can't seem to figure out how to smoothly let out the clutch in the final couple or three inches. When I tromp on the gas and don't care too much about too much clutch slipping, things are fine. A nice smooth hard pull especially going up a hill seems beyond me. Could I be shifting right at when the turbo is beginning to spin hard thereby catching the engine at a power transition point? Or is it that the clutch just vague? To further muddy the waters, sometimes it feels like the clutch is overly slipping in the last inch and a half.

 

Maybe I just need more practice. I don't mind practicing. It's what enabled me to buy Spec. B #101 in the first place. :cool:

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These medium hard upshifts of mine are currently herky jerky. I can't seem to figure out how to smoothly let out the clutch in the final couple or three inches...
My experience was similar at first, now shifting is much smoother. Here's a couple of tips:

- Try to match revs on the upshift. If you have matched revs closely, then it won't matter how fast you let out the clutch, it will always be a smooth transition. Don't let the revs fall too fast, don't try to shift too quick.

- Temporarily slow down your shifting. This is an old trick if you have ever learned to play a musical instrument. You can concentrate better if you slow down. Once you've learned the right moves, you can speed it up.

 

Hope these tips work for you, too.

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I admit that I've lost practice driving a stick-shift. The car died on me a couple times already...yes it was pretty embarrasing...:confused::icon_conf

 

 

HAHAHAHHA, NOOB! no, I'm just kidding. I think EVERYONE experinced and newbies has stalled on this car. Just take your time and you'll get it in no time.

 

From a stop, like others have said, don't be afraid to give it a bit more gas. This will also help prevent you from stalling.

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definietly take it slow at first - it will take a few miles to get used to shifting on the LGT - especially if this is your first AWD car.

 

You have to understand that when you mash the pedal you're tires aren't going to light up in smoke -- but you're clutch just might if you're not carefull.

 

 

as for accellaretion, you've really got to be above 3500 rpms to get access to the cars power. This means that for quick acceleration off the line you will have to learn how to properly launch the car at high rpm's and slip the clutch. On the highway, or at highway speeds -- use third gear for passing. You really won't have enough power in 4th or 5th to quickly pass somebody or merge into traffic in a hurry.

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Remember that clutch and flexplate need several hundred miles to break in as well. You can usually burn up a new clutch in a few miles if you're determined enough. 1xx miles is way too early to start trying to get your 0-60 time down. It's a good way to get a glazed flexplate and freshly toasted clutch though.
Experience is something you don't get until right after you needed it.
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I dont understand why most people still recomend and/or scared of a mild to hard break in. the miles on the car when it arrives at the dealer brand new, has already been tried, to red line and to 120mph... why take it easy? cus the factory suggests it? is also suggests that you do all your maintenance at an approved service center but im sure most of us dont do that.

 

this topic has been debated on, over and over again, with no conclusion...

 

so my suggestion, dont drive the car redlining every gear, but vary it, with a some soft driving, and some hard driving.

Current:MY05 SWP wagon - 253/290 :rolleyes: UP, AEM CAI, Invidia Q300, tuned@yimisport

OLD: MY06 GRP - 274/314 :cool:

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know your rev ranges and speed per gear, just keep it above 3k rpms, and just have fun.. rev-match and heel-toe EVERYTHING.. be easy and smooth on the throttle, allow the car to give you the best timing and fuel delievery via ECU.. (hence why Subaru came out with the Spec B with the Intelligent drive where you can dial in the ECU response basically via a knob on the console to give it that sportiness response).. the 05's are slow reacting, it's to give it that luxury slow, but smooth feeling (hence why it's advertised and claimed to do silly 0-60 times in 5.8 seconds and some more sillyness of a 1/4 mile in 15.6 something seconds).
Keefe
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I dont understand why most people still recomend and/or scared of a mild to hard break in. the miles on the car when it arrives at the dealer brand new, has already been tried, to red line and to 120mph... why take it easy? cus the factory suggests it? is also suggests that you do all your maintenance at an approved service center but im sure most of us dont do that.

 

this topic has been debated on, over and over again, with no conclusion...

 

so my suggestion, dont drive the car redlining every gear, but vary it, with a some soft driving, and some hard driving.

 

+1, don't baby it.

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Wow! I am very impressed with this forum...you guys are prompt, honest and to the point...kudos!

 

I am hesitant to "modify" the car just yet. I would like to get the full 3yr/36k mile warranty to be over first...but then again...Christmas is not that far away! :-)

 

I will definitely try out these tips, over the weekend. I will drive out to the far suburbs with open roads and higher speed limits. Some practice will surely help. Absolutely no red-line or clutch-drops... I will surely provide some feedback.

 

Cheers!

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know your rev ranges and speed per gear, just keep it above 3k rpms, and just have fun.. rev-match and heel-toe EVERYTHING.. be easy and smooth on the throttle, allow the car to give you the best timing and fuel delievery via ECU..

 

Agree...but what is "heel-toe". Google search returned all sorts of results (including some medical links :icon_bigg )...

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I also stalled more than usual when Ifirs got the car. You have to remember that is not only the combination of aAWD and a vague clutch, but also the drive-by-wire setup that we have. It makes for a very challenging drive.

 

Now I drive it like it is second nature, and I know exactly when it is a good shift or not.

 

Boost is very addicting BTW, and the more you use it, the more trips to the gas station you will make. :icon_mrgr

 

GL

 

X

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Agree...but what is "heel-toe". Google search returned all sorts of results (including some medical links :icon_bigg )...

 

"Heel/toe" can be more accurately described as "ball of right foot on the brake pedal and the outside of the foot on the gas." Doing this enables one to blip the gas to match revs on a downshift while braking. Then there is left foot braking which is used by some turbo racers to keep the turbo spooled up. That was an especially important technique in the days of serious turbo lag.

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I dont understand why most people still recomend and/or scared of a mild to hard break in.

 

so my suggestion, dont drive the car redlining every gear, but vary it, with a some soft driving, and some hard driving.

 

 

but that is the suggestion from the dealer.. to not go past 4k rpms UNLESS it's an emergency, and vary the rpms to allow all the parts to seat in properly.

 

 

Heck, I autoxed my GT 3 to 4 times before I even hit 600 miles. I just change the oil at 1000 miles and have at it with the car ever since.. 50,000+ miles now and not a SINGLE thing replaced yet (other than tires :lol:)

Keefe
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Agree...but what is "heel-toe". Google search returned all sorts of results (including some medical links :icon_bigg )...

 

 

heel toe is basically rev-matching during a braking session/zone. This allows a smoother transition of the car's weight transfers and also allows less time spent on holding down the clutch.. less time you spend on using the clutch, the longer it will last. The less variations of the speeds of the wheels to the drivetrain to the engine, the less wear you will have on the tranny and clutch.. all this can be done under ANY kind of driving (in fact, I recommend it, it just makes your car parts last a lot longer with less abuse). I drove my WRX with a stage 2 past 76,000 miles with the same stock clutch and tranny (which I have probably logged in close to 3000 miles with that car on track and about 200 autox events..), I passed along my knowledge from HDPE's and other forms of driving lessons and taught my brother these driving techniques as we both got our WRXs on the same day back in 2002, and he's well over 98k+ miles with a stage 3 (everything shy of a new turbo, injectors and fuel mods) setup with the original tranny AND clutch! He aint a granny driver either as we do a LOT of spirited driving. it's all in the way you drive.

 

Here's me doing some heel-toe back when I was making minor instructional videos with my new in-car camera setups and what-nots with my WRX:

 

(please to a right-click "SAVE AS", thanks)

http://evasionoftruth.com/videos/Footwork.wmv

Keefe
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