rao Posted October 13, 2004 Share Posted October 13, 2004 The torque spec for the hose connections is 10.8 ft.lbs. for some of the joints and 13.0 ft.lbs. for others. Not very tight at all. Make sure there are no leaks. If you overtighten them you will either ruin your new fancy brake lines or strip out the fittings in the calipers or the hard liines - neither of which is cheap or fun. Rob IF YOU CARE ABOUT YOUR CAR YOU SHOULD NEVER DRIVE IT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Opie Posted October 13, 2004 Author Share Posted October 13, 2004 No leaks from mine either, performing great. Stock is getting low, get 'em while they are in stock! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Opie Posted October 13, 2004 Author Share Posted October 13, 2004 [quote name='canis']Just picked mine up yesterday from Opie. Did y'all replace the fluid, or just add more? What kind did you replace with/add more with?[/QUOTE] You can either just replaced the fluid that was lost with the install and bleed the lines and be fine, or you can replace the fluid entirely with a better performing fluid. I chose to replace my fluid. Motul RBF600 and Castrol GT-LMA are good choices. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShaggyGT Posted October 13, 2004 Share Posted October 13, 2004 I replaced the fluid with Motul RBF600. -Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canis Posted October 13, 2004 Share Posted October 13, 2004 Great. Where do they sell it around here? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShaggyGT Posted October 13, 2004 Share Posted October 13, 2004 I ordered mine from the local dealership. [url]http://www.sojax.com[/url] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Opie Posted October 13, 2004 Author Share Posted October 13, 2004 We carry it here at Mastro too! :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobY Posted October 15, 2004 Share Posted October 15, 2004 Well I broke down and ordered them from Mastro. I also bought the craftsman vacu-bleeder kit. I will be using stock subaru fluid becuase I feel bad for changing out perfectly good fluid. Any tips on the install? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Opie Posted October 16, 2004 Author Share Posted October 16, 2004 [quote name='RobY']Any tips on the install?[/QUOTE] Of all the brake lines I've installed these are by far the most frustrating. The fronts are like any other, the rears, well.........have fun. You will need a 10mm line wrench (Flare). 17mm open end wrench(the longer the better) A large set of channel lock pliers. An even larger set of channel lock pliers. A cheater pipe for the 10mm line wrench (i'm not kidding!) Teflon tape will be helpful, four cigarretts, two beers, a punching bag to work out some of the frustration, various types and sizes of bandages, a short, red headed stepchild to smack around from time to time and last but not least, arms like strech armstrong to get the right leverage at the right point to break the stock lines loose. :D Do the fronts first...then you'll feel really confident before tackling the rears :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobY Posted October 16, 2004 Share Posted October 16, 2004 [quote name='Opie']Of all the brake lines I've installed these are by far the most frustrating. The fronts are like any other, the rears, well.........have fun. You will need a 10mm line wrench (Flare). 17mm open end wrench(the longer the better) A large set of channel lock pliers. An even larger set of channel lock pliers. A cheater pipe for the 10mm line wrench (i'm not kidding!) Teflon tape will be helpful, four cigarretts, two beers, a punching bag to work out some of the frustration, various types and sizes of bandages, a short, red headed stepchild to smack around from time to time and last but not least, arms like strech armstrong to get the right leverage at the right point to break the stock lines loose. :D Do the fronts first...then you'll feel really confident before tackling the rears :D[/QUOTE] :o Oh man... I hope I didnt bite off more than I can chew... Brake lines and "cheater bar" shouldent be in the same sentence. I tend to become really irritated really fast and tend to break stuff with cheater bars. What exactly is so difficult about the rear lines Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Opie Posted October 17, 2004 Author Share Posted October 17, 2004 [quote name='RobY']:o Oh man... I hope I didnt bite off more than I can chew... Brake lines and "cheater bar" shouldent be in the same sentence. I tend to become really irritated really fast and tend to break stuff with cheater bars. What exactly is so difficult about the rear lines[/QUOTE] It's more their location and position than anything else, they are just in awkward positions to get them loose. My car was a very early production car and my lines were much tighter than the other cars we have installed the lines on that were made later. Figure an hour to two tops. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShaggyGT Posted October 17, 2004 Share Posted October 17, 2004 Opie, I think you just had the stock lines from hell. Mine were very easy to break loose, we did them with just wrenches and had no problems. And we did the install with the car on jack stands. It took us about 2-2.5 hrs total time with the install and bleeding the brakes with a Vacuum bleeder. -Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canis Posted October 25, 2004 Share Posted October 25, 2004 Installed mine last night. Noticeable difference, even on the casual test drive. The pedal is firm throughout the range. The harder you push, the harder you stop. No soft spots. This is on stock fluid. A few additional notes on the install: 1. I was lucky enough to get one of the "impossibly tight" cars. The first line I did (driver's rear, from the caliper) took nearly 45 minutes. The banjo bolt comes out fine. But that stupid 10mm was a pain! I nearly stripped it out, and even thought it must be reverse threaded or something. The trick is this: Put channel locks on the side opposite the bracket, and the 10mm on the nut. Tap the 10mm with a hammer a couple times. Then, instead of just putting a lot of pressure on it, give it a good yank (simulating an impact wrench). Doing this will lessen the likelyhood of stripping it off. You can actually hear it "crack" and break loose. Once I figured this out, things went much more quickly. 2. Those pressure clip thingies are also a pain. They go on easily one way - that's the wrong way. You have to flip them over, try to hold them in place with one hand and tap them with a hammer with the other hand. I must be an idiot, but the whole thing took me about 3 hours. Doh! But after doing the rear first, the fronts took about 7 minutes each. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2006Specb122 Posted January 16, 2008 Share Posted January 16, 2008 WOW....doesn't sound like much fun! Would spraying with PB blaster bolt release stuff help? And what is eveyrone using these days for brake lines and fluid? I"m pretty set on the Hawk HPS pads with DBA 4000s (Still not sure whether slotted or slotted and drilled) but not sure about which brand of lines and fluid to go with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.