S4 Posted June 16, 2006 Share Posted June 16, 2006 That is why I still am going to get a scan soon. I just had other things to do yesterday... like watch soccer. haha I know this may not help you right now, but use the built-in code reader next time. Look above your fuse panel for a couple white connectors. You may have to fish around, but they ARE there (I gave up the first time). Just connect the two white connectors and press the trip button during the gauge sweep and you'll get the code on your dash. Has anyone taken a look at the switch in a 'failed' condition? I'm just wondering if the end of the plunger is getting worn down and that is causing the failure. If so (perhaps due to soft plastic), then even with a thinned washer, it could come back, but thinning it further would fix it again, until there is no washer left and the switch is worn down to a nub. I want to get this fixed, but don't want to have to go through multiple reflashes and then just get another switch that will fail in another 25k miles. If it's just $26 for the switch, I may just order a new one and replace it myself, but only if there's a general consensus that it WILL fix the problem. Otherwise I'm going to go with the thinned washer fix until there's a redesigned switch. Am I the only person that thinks that spending countless hours going to and from the dealership, and waiting and dealing with loaners isn't worth it for a $26 part? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AirSix Posted June 17, 2006 Share Posted June 17, 2006 I know this may not help you right now, but use the built-in code reader next time. Look above your fuse panel for a couple white connectors. You may have to fish around, but they ARE there (I gave up the first time). Just connect the two white connectors and press the trip button during the gauge sweep and you'll get the code on your dash. Once you have the code, then what? Take that info to the dealer? Jeez, I feel stupid. I tell myself that an N/A Forester is just an STI without all the fluff like, power, handling, style, racing heritage, and curb appeal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
S4 Posted June 17, 2006 Share Posted June 17, 2006 Once you have the code, then what? Take that info to the dealer? Jeez, I feel stupid. You can do a search on the forum for it and see if you can tell what it's telling you. Sometimes it's an easy fix, sometimes it'll be more major and you'll want the dealer to fix it for you. In either case, you'll find out the code to give to the dealer. Don't worry man, everyone starts at the beginning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ilh Posted June 18, 2006 Share Posted June 18, 2006 The "vacation pix" list all the codes. Search for them. My service manager was happy I gave him the code I read off the gauge cluster. When I brought it in the next day for a CEL, he had already familiarized himself with the diagnostic steps called for by the code. It probably saved them a bit of time (while I waited). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AaronBerg Posted July 3, 2006 Share Posted July 3, 2006 !S4, I finally found the two connectors. I got the CEL for the 3rd or 4th time (I've noticed that I got it while under moderate throttle each time, usually on an on-ramp) so this morning, I connected them and hit the trip button and it read P----. Then I noticed that once again, the light went off when I was checking! Grrrr. I guess I will have to actually take it in and get teh history read. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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