LittleBlueGT Posted April 4, 2006 Share Posted April 4, 2006 I did it and it worked GREAT!!! I saw someone post about putting the rubber seat on the Bottom of the Strut. DO NOT DO THIS! Make sure if you do this you double up the seats at the top. I will try to post pics soon but the drop looks great. Its all a preference thing anyway. =) I had to make sure my seat was firmly in place before tightening everything up. I have the rubber seat on the bottom. After 3 months no problems. Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jet_Black Posted April 4, 2006 Share Posted April 4, 2006 What is the approximate difference in height by adding an extra seat to one rear side only? I'm beginning to wonder if this might work well to correct the stance of my sedan on S-Techs... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Selds Posted April 4, 2006 Author Share Posted April 4, 2006 I had to make sure my seat was firmly in place before tightening everything up. I have the rubber seat on the bottom. After 3 months no problems. As it was explained to me the bottom of the strut has a notch in it for the bottome end of the spring wind to fit into to keep the spring from rotating I guess. Putting the space on top of this keeps the spring from being anchored and my install guy didnt seem to like that too much Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted April 4, 2006 Share Posted April 4, 2006 I probably should have elaborated more. I used the JDM rubber spring seat (not sure if that makes a difference). I cut out the inner steel piece, so now it is just rubber. The spring still sits in the notch properly. Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NHLEG Posted April 4, 2006 Share Posted April 4, 2006 I'm the next one with rear drop- which is waaaaaay to much, and not balanced like with stock springs. Right now my HID light are way to high, so I have to options: 1) adjust lights or 2) install second set of Rear Rubber Spring Seats.... and propably I'll go with this one since I don't want to mess up with light and I allready have a problem when leaving garage (not when solo, only with load or my kid on the back(40lbs) I have the exact same problem. My lights aim too high now since I installed the iON's and get flashed EVERY night I drive. Gee Jack, doesn't sound like the rear drop was the same as the front drop now does it? You have stated in the past, "the so called "sag" isn't really sag in it's literal terms. In all actuality the vehicle's Front & Rear height are exactly the same. It's the profile of fender (ie: the way the lines are) which give that slightly lower look on the rear." Jack, I've measured and the drop is more than 1". "so called..."??? Jack, my headlights are misaimed high since the install. "so called..."??? Jack, I've told you my rear is 1/2" to 3/4" lower in the rear than the front. "so called..."??? How many more people do you need to tell you that you have a problem with your rear springs before you admit it and take action to fix the problem? I would expect a wagon problem with a "one-size-fits-all" spring and the extra weight in the rear, but according to you, "Our line of sport spec springs are specifically designed for chassis, tranny and engine type." I bought these springs and paid alot more money than other vendors are charging because you said things like, "In all honesty, comparing our Sport Specs to the H-techs is just apples to oranges." Jack, be a man! Admit there is a problem and stand behind what you say and sell! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joeb-z Posted April 4, 2006 Share Posted April 4, 2006 ^^What he said. I think there was a miscalculation or manufacturing error on the wagon springs. I'm just going to put in an extra doughnut on top. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tintinet Posted April 4, 2006 Share Posted April 4, 2006 Mmmmm....donuts! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iON Performance Posted April 4, 2006 Share Posted April 4, 2006 NHLEG - We have logged the frequency of occurances in regards to said issue for Wagon specific owners. We've also looked at the specific production batches that this issue has arisen from. Based on the statistical information, it does not indicate a design flaw, or something that was made wrong. As mentioned in the previous reply; each car's lowering will be slightly varied due to the condition of the rubber components etc. If in fact there was a production error we would have caught it before shipping; if there was a design flaw, then the handling would be seriously affected. From each production run, we generally keep one of each spring for in house reference/testing. We've simulated the wagon's load on a spring from your specific production batch without any issues related to loss of spring rate or material fatigue. (The results are from continuous testing; from the time that you had PM'd us in the past). We will be offering a "heavy-duty" version for those who consistently carry heavy loads in their wagons for the rear. We have a limited lifetime warranty on manufacture's defects, if you absolutely think that it's defective you're more then welcome to send the rears back to us; we will provide you with a replacement set if its found that the spring is out of our tolerence specifications. In reference to the headlight aim, have you been running the same headlight set-up? (ie: non-HID?) The lowering figures are based on the chassis; not the fender gap. The chassis itself will measure out to be level. In reference to the chassis height on a factory set-up which has a very slight "rake" blacky - Re: light aiming. Are you using the same reference point for aiming? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronburgandy21 Posted April 4, 2006 Share Posted April 4, 2006 ^ With this issue have read, not sure if I want to take the dive and buy springs. Is this just happening on the wagons and not the sedans? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boulderguy Posted April 4, 2006 Share Posted April 4, 2006 Ronburgandy - the simple fix with spring seats makes everything fine, just not necessarily ideal. Don't let that deter you from better springs. About the rear drop, I had the same problems with the Swifts & was sure there was a problem with them. Swift summarily denied everything. That's another topic. Given the number of complaints arising, I'm starting to wonder if the original data used to design aftermarket springs (Swift, Ion, others?) was incorrect. Does this all come from the same source? Does Subaru release weights/ride heights etc that aftermarket companies use to design the springs? Swift said the same things, that the car was flat, not sagging in the rear. But the fact remains that the rear is lowering further than the front, so maybe the stock stance is different than originally calculated? All that aside I've accepted that any aftermarket springs I buy will have a droopy butt that can be fixed with extra spring seats. But rather than everyone facing off on who & what's right, wouldn't it be easier to simply make the rear springs just a hair taller? That seems to be overwhelmingly what the market is asking for here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iON Performance Posted April 5, 2006 Share Posted April 5, 2006 ronburgandy21 - As pictured below: LGT 5MT Sedan vs. LGT 5MT Wagon. The fender lines are different in the rears (even cut lower then the sedan). However the comparison here is slightly biased as the LGT 5MT wagon also has oversized tires vs. the LGT 5MT Sedan on stock wheels/tires. LGT 5MT Sedan: http://www.ionperformance.com/suspension/ionBPa.jpg LGT 5MT Wagon: (with oversized tires) http://www.ionperformance.com/suspension/ionBL.jpg Boulderguy - To keep the spring rates at a specific rate, the free length of the coil has to be a certain length, the coil diameter is a certain diameter, the material thickness has to be a certain thickness. By "lengthing" a spring it may not produce the desired effect of a higher height, it will however result in the increase likelihood of coil bind. For your specific set, we can move you onto the HD version of the rears. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boulderguy Posted April 5, 2006 Share Posted April 5, 2006 Thanks for the offer, I'm not sure if that's the right choice for me. We'll figure it out as things get closer. BTW, we could use a GB update. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blacky Posted April 6, 2006 Share Posted April 6, 2006 NHLEG - We have logged the frequency of occurances in regards to said issue for Wagon specific owners. We've also looked at the specific production batches that this issue has arisen from. Based on the statistical information, it does not indicate a design flaw, or something that was made wrong. As mentioned in the previous reply; each car's lowering will be slightly varied due to the condition of the rubber components etc. If in fact there was a production error we would have caught it before shipping; if there was a design flaw, then the handling would be seriously affected. From each production run, we generally keep one of each spring for in house reference/testing. We've simulated the wagon's load on a spring from your specific production batch without any issues related to loss of spring rate or material fatigue. (The results are from continuous testing; from the time that you had PM'd us in the past). We will be offering a "heavy-duty" version for those who consistently carry heavy loads in their wagons for the rear. We have a limited lifetime warranty on manufacture's defects, if you absolutely think that it's defective you're more then welcome to send the rears back to us; we will provide you with a replacement set if its found that the spring is out of our tolerence specifications. In reference to the headlight aim, have you been running the same headlight set-up? (ie: non-HID?) The lowering figures are based on the chassis; not the fender gap. The chassis itself will measure out to be level. In reference to the chassis height on a factory set-up which has a very slight "rake" blacky - Re: light aiming. Are you using the same reference point for aiming? Absolutely. And I'm not the wagon owner, I'have SEDAN. As per Your q. yes same point, but it is more visible when driving parallel to some wall or building- then U can see that lights are aimig UP, not like prev. straight with a little bit down from horizon line. Other words I feel sorry for oncoming drivers ,and I mean it. HID straight in Your eyes in the middle of the night -belive me it's simply nightmare, not mensioning constant flashing- like somebody said already. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blacky Posted April 6, 2006 Share Posted April 6, 2006 .....and I do not carry bag of sand or something in trunk:icon_bigg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lisn2me2 Posted April 6, 2006 Share Posted April 6, 2006 Jack (AT ION) ishould charge you royalties for posting my Wagon for business...........LOL you thought i had oversized tires then look at these!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ps NO MORE RUBBING!!!!!!!!!!!!! spring rubbers did the trick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crash Posted April 6, 2006 Share Posted April 6, 2006 Jack (AT ION) ishould charge you royalties for posting my Wagon for business...........LOL you thought i had oversized tires then look at these!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ps NO MORE RUBBING!!!!!!!!!!!!! spring rubbers did the trick wheel size and tire width? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lisn2me2 Posted April 6, 2006 Share Posted April 6, 2006 18 x 8 255 35 18 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crash Posted April 6, 2006 Share Posted April 6, 2006 18 x 8 255 35 18 Wheel offset? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lisn2me2 Posted April 6, 2006 Share Posted April 6, 2006 51 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HansGT Posted April 6, 2006 Share Posted April 6, 2006 size work for a sedan too? (have to get light wheels to make up for the added weight of the wide rubber) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewScooby Posted April 6, 2006 Share Posted April 6, 2006 I have 18X8 wheels with 51MM offset on my sedan with ION springs, I currently have 225/40's with plenty of room to go to 245/35's when I wear these out. I love these springs. I hope you guys with issues get them resolved. size work for a sedan too? (have to get light wheels to make up for the added weight of the wide rubber) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HansGT Posted April 7, 2006 Share Posted April 7, 2006 I have 18X8 wheels with 51MM offset on my sedan with ION springs, I currently have 225/40's with plenty of room to go to 245/35's when I wear these out. I love these springs. I hope you guys with issues get them resolved. which iON GB were you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewScooby Posted April 7, 2006 Share Posted April 7, 2006 which iON GB were you? GB #3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mungo Posted July 24, 2006 Share Posted July 24, 2006 20375AE000 - Rear Rubber Spring Seat Hmmm, none in stock at Subaru Canada's Toronto warehouse. They will have to come from Japan and will take 2-3 weeks, according to my dealer. 25.00 CAN each. I've got a spare set of these if anyone is interested shoot me a PM. The visual difference in height does not bother me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mungo Posted July 25, 2006 Share Posted July 25, 2006 Sold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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