Group N vs Spec B strut mounts

[Jray96]

Hello, 

I’ll be installing Bilstien b6 struts and Sti pinks on my 2005 lgt wagon. I want to check if the Group N strut mounts will work with the Bilstiens, or if I need to get the spec.b mounts. 
 

I see that the group n mounts are listed as working with various spec b and other jdm legacies. Flatirons tuning said they didn’t see why the mounts wouldn’t work, and Bilstien just pointed me to their catalogue that said non spec b cars must use their mounts. 
 

Thanks in advance for any help! 

[MoleMan]

On 3/20/2024 at 5:48 PM, Jray96 said:

Hello, 

I’ll be installing Bilstien b6 struts and Sti pinks on my 2005 lgt wagon. I want to check if the Group N strut mounts will work with the Bilstiens, or if I need to get the spec.b mounts. 
 

I see that the group n mounts are listed as working with various spec b and other jdm legacies. Flatirons tuning said they didn’t see why the mounts wouldn’t work, and Bilstien just pointed me to their catalogue that said non spec b cars must use their mounts. 
 

Thanks in advance for any help! 

Just use the mounts from Bilstein.  My 3.0 R has the same mounts as the Spec B as they both use the Bilstein setup.  

A word of caution.  Bilstein products seems to always be on backorder at least when I need them.  So I would see if they are in stock or you need to wait four weeks to get them.  You could always call the local dealer and see if they have the stock mounts from a Spec B or 3.0 R as well.  

If Flatirons cannot give you a hard "Yes they will work" or "No they won't" just avoid buying from them.  Wasted install time just to find out they won't work is what makes me upset.

 

[Jray96]

On 3/22/2024 at 9:07 AM, MoleMan said:

Just use the mounts from Bilstein.  My 3.0 R has the same mounts as the Spec B as they both use the Bilstein setup.  

A word of caution.  Bilstein products seems to always be on backorder at least when I need them.  So I would see if they are in stock or you need to wait four weeks to get them.  You could always call the local dealer and see if they have the stock mounts from a Spec B or 3.0 R as well.  

If Flatirons cannot give you a hard "Yes they will work" or "No they won't" just avoid buying from them.  Wasted install time just to find out they won't work is what makes me upset.

 

Thanks for the input! I definitely agree on wasted install time being a problem. I talked with my local Subaru specialists, and they said the Group N mounts would work with the Bilstiens, and gave me a number to call to confirm as well. 
 

I will definitely not be taking anything apart until I know for sure though. 

[Jray96]

On 3/22/2024 at 9:07 AM, MoleMan said:

Just use the mounts from Bilstein.  My 3.0 R has the same mounts as the Spec B as they both use the Bilstein setup.  

A word of caution.  Bilstein products seems to always be on backorder at least when I need them.  So I would see if they are in stock or you need to wait four weeks to get them.  You could always call the local dealer and see if they have the stock mounts from a Spec B or 3.0 R as well.  

If Flatirons cannot give you a hard "Yes they will work" or "No they won't" just avoid buying from them.  Wasted install time just to find out they won't work is what makes me upset.

 

If anyone’s curious, I did end up using the group N mounts. 
 

I have heard a slight clunk at times, but I’m hoping that’s the suspension settling. I’m having it aligned this weekend so we’ll see if they say anything about that. 

 

Other than that, the setup has felt great so far- body roll has decreased a ton and it feels more flat in corners. I also don’t feel the car rock as much during acceleration and shifts, or even just getting into the car. 
 

I’ll be looking at tracking down a JDM rear sway next, if anyone has info on a part number I’d appreciate it! 

[MoleMan]

2 hours ago, Jray96 said:

If anyone’s curious, I did end up using the group N mounts. 
 

I have heard a slight clunk at times, but I’m hoping that’s the suspension settling. I’m having it aligned this weekend so we’ll see if they say anything about that. 

 

Other than that, the setup has felt great so far- body roll has decreased a ton and it feels more flat in corners. I also don’t feel the car rock as much during acceleration and shifts, or even just getting into the car. 
 

I’ll be looking at tracking down a JDM rear sway next, if anyone has info on a part number I’d appreciate it! 

Don't start with the JDM sway bar stuff.  It just always sounds ricey to me.  It's like the folks that keep pushing muffler deletes.  No offense ment at all

Just either put the set from Whiteline or put a Cusco rear bar on.  I cannot remember the size specific.  But I think the Whiteline set is 26mm rear 27mm front.  It is well worth getting the set. If you wanna go further get the Cusco front strut tower brace.  Just do it right is what I am saying.  Total set up I believe is about $600 or so.  But it's been a while since I bought my parts.  I think the sways were about $300 the endlinks maybe $100 and the strut tower brace was $250.  Of course you don't need to go Cusco on the brace but I think it looks the best. On top of that it's easily removed with the quick releases.  If you don't have the funds now I would just buy when able and install.  Once again you could just go with a bigger rear sway but I have personally found the car tighter when the sways are more matched.

My setup is Whiteline front and rear sways with Whiteline endlinks and a Cusco strut tower brace.  Very little body roll.  Can still take tighter canyon curves at 70 without issue.

If you are knocking it could be a LCA bushing or a link.  Is the knocking coming from the Billsteins?  Or is it more below?  If you are getting an alignment they should pick up on a bad LCA bushing.  But some don't.

 

 

Edited April 19 by MoleMan

[KZJonny]

10 hours ago, MoleMan said:

Don't start with the JDM sway bar stuff.  It just always sounds ricey to me. 

10 hours ago, MoleMan said:

My setup is Whiteline front and rear sways with Whiteline endlinks and a Cusco strut tower brace. 

I totally agree with the general sentiment that paired sway bars are great, and your advice is good...

But you DO you know that Cusco equipment IS JDM, and I guess... therefore ricey?

 

EDIT: The rest was ranty becuase it was super late and I as tired. Hah!

Edited April 19 by KZJonny

[Jray96]

Moleman and KZJonny, 

thanks for the advice, and no offense taken- I’m still learning about the in depth parts of modification, and I truly appreciate all the info and help I can get.

I want to keep my car close to oem+ and not go overboard. it’s currently on a stock engine with about 15k on it, the previous owner had put some questionable parts on the old engine and it blew soon after I purchased the car. 
 

I was thinking of the 19mm jdm sway because I’d read that it is a good match for the stock front bar, and potentially can be found for closer to $100 as opposed to whiteline and the like. I’m aware that a sway bar isn’t the most complex piece of equipment though and as long as I use a decent company I should be set. 
 

whether I go with whiteline, superpro, Cusco, or whoever, it seems like a lot of the options available for these cars will still be good. I’m all for the “wait until you can do it right” advice on parts, i was thinking the same thing when I was tracking down the pinks and Bilstien struts. 
 

not sure what’s causing the noise yet as I’ve only had the parts on for a day. It’s a pretty minor clunk, but it’s hard to tell if it’s from the left front or rear- might even be both. I did go with poly bushings on my front lca and rear trailing arms, so I could see that being part of it. I’ll definitely mention it when I take it in to get aligned.

[BoozeRS05]

The JDM 19mm rear sway bar is a fantastic option. It’s cheap and makes a significant difference in handling without going all the way in. I highly recommend it for anyone just getting started. Your OEM endlinks might be pretty beat up though, and you might wanna grab something from rockauto in case you have to cut those suckers out.

[KZJonny]

1 hour ago, BoozeRS05 said:

The JDM 19mm rear sway bar is a fantastic option. It’s cheap and makes a significant difference in handling without going all the way in. I highly recommend it for anyone just getting started. Your OEM endlinks might be pretty beat up though, and you might wanna grab something from rockauto in case you have to cut those suckers out.

Totally agree. Unless you're pushing the car pretty hard, this is all you are likely to need for a good long time.

Take care of any clunks and noises, just because they can be safety concerns. After that, put on the best tires you can afford... you can't make a better investment in handling than that. Period. Continental DWS06 and Michelin Pilot Sports are favourites among many here and both are excellent. The all season versions are a little cheaper and longer lasting and likely all you need for a DD that doesn't see track days.

The full Spec B suspension + sway bars + endlinks + etc... I installed is awesome, but being totally honest, the difference between OEM stuff and all of that was probably less noticeable then when I got rid of the tired out Eagle Sport 2s and had some Conti's installed. Night and day difference in grip, compliance and noise....

Edited April 19 by KZJonny

[shralp]

Wouldn’t worry about a front strut tower brace as well unless it’s a full dedicated track car and your trying to squeeze every 1/10th off your time. The front struts on the Legacy are located super close to a massive stiffener, it’s called the firewall . Makes sense for cars like the BMW E46 crowd where the strut towers are pretty far forward but it’s essentially a superfluous part for us. 

[Jray96]

6 hours ago, BoozeRS05 said:

The JDM 19mm rear sway bar is a fantastic option. It’s cheap and makes a significant difference in handling without going all the way in. I highly recommend it for anyone just getting started. Your OEM endlinks might be pretty beat up though, and you might wanna grab something from rockauto in case you have to cut those suckers out.

I forgot to add, I did throw some moog endlinks on at the same time as the other parts. 
 

for the JDM sway, do you know where I could track down a part number? I’ve seen some on eBay but want to ensure I get the right one.

[Jray96]

5 hours ago, KZJonny said:

Totally agree. Unless you're pushing the car pretty hard, this is all you are likely to need for a good long time.

Take care of any clunks and noises, just because they can be safety concerns. After that, put on the best tires you can afford... you can't make a better investment in handling than that. Period. Continental DWS06 and Michelin Pilot Sports are favourites among many here and both are excellent. The all season versions are a little cheaper and longer lasting and likely all you need for a DD that doesn't see track days.

The full Spec B suspension + sway bars + endlinks + etc... I installed is awesome, but being totally honest, the difference between OEM stuff and all of that was probably less noticeable then when I got rid of the tired out Eagle Sport 2s and had some Conti's installed. Night and day difference in grip, compliance and noise....

Currently still have my winters on but I’m looking at grabbing some BRZ wheels, a few local guys are selling them with pilot sport 4s for like $700. I love the simple look of rpf1s but for that price I’ll probably get the brz wheels. I’d probably run pilot sport all seasons if I buy new as I see a lot of different weather 

[KZJonny]

7 hours ago, Jray96 said:

Currently still have my winters on but I’m looking at grabbing some BRZ wheels, a few local guys are selling them with pilot sport 4s for like $700. I love the simple look of rpf1s but for that price I’ll probably get the brz wheels. I’d probably run pilot sport all seasons if I buy new as I see a lot of different weather 

Thats a sweet deal if you can land it yeah... I do not mean to start a fire here, since talking about either tires or oil seems to really get some people's blood pumping.

But, I think for less than track use, the all seasons are great. I also live somewhere the weather can be shockingly wild. I am on Continental DW06+'s. The "+" is the A/S version... but I came damn close to wrapping my car around a jersey barrier when we got snow and sleet in October a year or two ago. That is like 2 months earlier than we should get snow around here. (That was on older high performance tires… replaced them with the Continentals.)

That was enough to convince me to go with the A/S that is much more tolerant of cold + slush. Not awesome, but they get you home...

Edited April 20 by KZJonny

[MoleMan]

19 hours ago, KZJonny said:

I totally agree with the general sentiment that paired sway bars are great, and your advice is good...

But you DO you know that Cusco equipment IS JDM, and I guess... therefore ricey?

 

EDIT: The rest was ranty becuase it was super late and I as tired. Hah!

I don't consider Cusco JDM.  It's not ricey as they are more pricy as most components I have bought.  Quality is excellent.

When I hear JDM I am thinking of some cheap "Type R" knockoff eBay part.  I even consider Megan Racing parts part of this yet I have bought strut tower braces from them and have had zero issues.

What I consider ricey is this.

Some base Model Civic with a muffler delete, Type R stickers and VTEC sticker all over the body and a fake hood scoop and huge wing on the back.  Not to mention the awful aftermarket taillights and blue bulbs in the headlight housings.  And not to forget the red H badge.  

I just hate the phrase JDM.  Yeah of you are rolling with an R34 Skyline I will 100 percent support your JDM as that is a true JDM.  A LHD base Impreza is not lol.  

Just a huge difference between real JDM and fake JDM. And let's face it most people in the JDM world have "fast and furious" style ricers and once again not true JDM imports.

 

[Jray96]

1 minute ago, MoleMan said:

I don't consider Cusco JDM.  It's not ricey as they are more pricy as most components I have bought.  Quality is excellent.

When I hear JDM I am thinking of some cheap "Type R" knockoff eBay part.  I even consider Megan Racing parts part of this yet I have bought strut tower braces from them and have had zero issues.

What I consider ricey is this.

Some base Model Civic with a muffler delete, Type R stickers and VTEC sticker all over the body and a fake hood scoop and huge wing on the back.  Not to mention the awful aftermarket taillights and blue bulbs in the headlight housings.  And not to forget the red H badge.  

I just hate the phrase JDM.  Yeah of you are rolling with an R34 Skyline I will 100 percent support your JDM as that is a true JDM.  A LHD base Impreza is not lol.  

Just a huge difference between real JDM and fake JDM. And let's face it most people in the JDM world have "fast and furious" style ricers and once again not true JDM imports.

 

I get what you’re saying, but to me a sway bar no one will see, that is from Subaru of Japan is pretty far from rice; almost the exact opposite.

When I said “JDM sway” I was referring to the literal Subaru part, not some random Japanese company. Sounds like it’s part of your perception of the term JDM, and I can understand your thinking there. 
 

either way, anything I put on this car will be for functionality and reliability. I can appreciate some cosmetic stuff but that’s so far down the list of things I want to put money toward. 
 

 

[MoleMan]

5 hours ago, KZJonny said:

Thats a sweet deal if you can land it yeah... I do not mean to start a fire here, since talking about either tires or oil seems to really get some people's blood pumping.

But, I think for less than track use, the all seasons are great. I also live somewhere the weather can be shockingly wild. I am on Continental DW06+'s. The "+" is the A/S version... but I came damn close to wrapping my car around a jersey barrier when we got snow and sleet in October a year or two ago. That is like 2 months earlier than we should get snow around here.

That was enough to convince me to go with the A/S that is much more tolerant of cold + slush. Not awesome, but they get you home...

I have DWSs on all my cars.

Have ran them for ten plus years.  Here's the thing.  They are only good in about two inches of snow or less.  In wet they are amazing.  

If you almost wrapped your car around a jersey barrier they you were going to fast for conditions.  One other thing is once the DWS line gets below 4/32 of tread go to a tire shop and get a new set.  They will prorate you as well.  The traction is gone by that time and only a D is remaining.  And besides that they will scream at you.

I live in an snow area. Besides that it can get to -30 on occasion. So now you are dealing with ice under the snow as well that will not melt even with the highway department mix.

So In The winter on my dailys I put Blizzacks WS90s or the cheapest studded Snows. In fact state law to have chains or studs over some of the passes.  Even then a 6 percent grade crossing over 7500 feet with snow and ice is not a 75 mph fun cake walk. Lucky if you are doing 35. Half the time I tuck in between two semis and follow them for safety.

Fun times.  

[MoleMan]

2 minutes ago, Jray96 said:

I get what you’re saying, but to me a sway bar no one will see, that is from Subaru of Japan is pretty far from rice; almost the exact opposite.

When I said “JDM sway” I was referring to the literal Subaru part, not some random Japanese company. Sounds like it’s part of your perception of the term JDM, and I can understand your thinking there. 
 

either way, anything I put on this car will be for functionality and reliability. I can appreciate some cosmetic stuff but that’s so far down the list of things I want to put money toward. 
 

 

I got ya.

No worries.

I would buy the matching bar set and endlinks.  That will solve 90 percent of what you are looking for.  The strut tower brace will help with the handling a bit more by giving you a little more stiffness. But it's hard to notice unless pushed.  The sways you can feel the difference instantly.

I believe Cusco also has additional bracing.  But at that point it's more for racing and not the street.

OEM sways are just that.  I do not think their is a difference in part numbers on that specific part.  So the base Leggy has the same sways as a GT.  The Spec B may have a different size but I would say it's probably the same as a normal Leggy.  As I have two 4th gens and my 3.0 R had the same size rear sway as my 2.5i I would say it's a Standardized part.

Of course you can look up the info in a parts guide. But it's all about the difference from stock to aftermarket.  In this case the aftermarket bar is better as it's bigger MM wise.  You can always call up Whiteline as they can tell you the specs vs OEM.

I will tell you one thing. Don't do 28 MM in the front.  It will knock on the subframe when turning as it's to big. 

Heres the funny thing on Whiteline.  Now it's all made in the USA.  Production got switched a while back.  Guess it's cheaper to make here then in Australia.

 

[Jray96]

Just now, MoleMan said:

I got ya.

No worries.

I would buy the matching bar set and endlinks.  That will solve 90 percent of what you are looking for.  The strut tower brace will help with the handling a bit more by giving you a little more stiffness. But it's hard to notice unless pushed.  The sways you can feel the difference instantly.

I believe Cusco also has additional bracing.  But at that point it's more for racing and not the street.

OEM sways are just that.  I do not think their is a difference in part numbers on that specific part.  So the base Leggy has the same sways as a GT.  The Spec B may have a different size but I would say it's probably the same as a normal Leggy.  As I have two 4th gens and my 3.0 R had the same size rear sway as my 2.5i I would say it's a Standardized part.

Of course you can look up the info in a parts guide. But it's all about the difference from stock to aftermarket.  In this case the aftermarket bar is better as it's bigger MM wise.  You can always call up Whiteline as they can tell you the specs vs OEM.

I will tell you one thing. Don't do 28 MM in the front.  It will knock on the subframe when turning as it's to big. 

Heres the funny thing on Whiteline.  Now it's all made in the USA.  Production got switched a while back.  Guess it's cheaper to make here then in Australia.

 

That’s interesting on whiteline, I had assumed they were made in Australia. I saw they had a big sale this year for 22mm f/r sways, and I’d have picked them up if I hadn’t just spent way too much on my b6s and pink springs lol. 
 

From what I have read the beefed up moog endlinks I got from rockauto should hold up pretty well! I’m definitely open to matched f/r sways. Looking at an alignment Monday, hopefully the light clunks I’ve been sporadically hearing aren’t anything too crazy. 
 

i currently have Michelin x ice snows on my stock wheels, I love blizzaks but I get 15% off Michelins. I drive in Washington and Montana a lot so the snow, ice, and random weather conditions make me lean toward some performance a/s tires while still having my snows for the crazy months. I’m in full agreement about the tires though, they’re the most important thing to me handling wise. Even my current winters felt amazing after taking off the garbage prometers the previous owner put on 

[KZJonny]

1 hour ago, MoleMan said:

7 hours ago, KZJonny said:

Expand  

If you almost wrapped your car around a jersey barrier they you were going to fast for conditions.

 

I was doing about 25km/h. White knuckles the entire way. Any slower and I would have been a hazard on the road to everyone else.

So technically to fast for conditions, with the performance tires I had on. But recklessly fast? No.

Just a freak weather event that convinced me to keep all seasons on my 3 season car just in case that ever happened again. Southern Ontario is a stormy, icy, cold place, but almost never in October.

I have proper Michelin X-Ices on my winter cars.

Edited April 20 by KZJonny

[Jray96]

The ps4 wrapped brz premiums sold, but some guy near me is selling genuine Sti pro drives for 1200… tempting but a bit too much for me currently. I feel like I should get wheels that could clear brembos in case I go that route in a few years

[KZJonny]

Get whichever wheels you like, and planning ahead isn't a bad thing. So long as you are going into it with the knowledge that Brembo's are purely eye-candy unless you aggressively track the car.

Nothing wrong with spending your money how you want, at all. But the stock brakes are really pretty good with fresh fluid and the right pads. Just saying because many seem to think they're (Bremos, that is) better for a DD or street use. They are fine of course, but for a few thousand dollars, I expect upgrades to make my car faster or stop/handle better etc...

Edited April 20 by KZJonny

[Jray96]

1 minute ago, KZJonny said:

Get whichever wheels you like, and planning ahead isn't a bad thing. So long as you are going into it with the knowledge that Brembo's are purely eye-candy unless you aggressively track the car.

Nothing wrong with spending your money how you want, at all. But the stock brakes are really pretty good with fresh fluid and the right pads. Just saying because many seem to think they're (Bremos, that is) better for a DD or street use. They are fine of course, but for a few thousand dollars, I expect upgrades to make my car faster or stop/handle better etc...

I’m in full agreement! I should definitely do a whole fluid flush before I worry more about the brakes. 
 

My car stops alright, but it has a mushy pedal and not a whole lot of bite. I put centric premium blanks and porterfield r4s pads on right when i got it, so it should definitely have the capability. 
 

coming from my 07 crv with stoptech sports, I miss the brake feel a lot. I get that brake feel and actual stopping power varies, but I really miss the bite from my old car. 
 

i’m considering a master cylinder brace and ss lines if a flush doesn’t get me what i’m looking for- I’d go for any brand BBK if still needed but they’re definitely not cheap. I definitely appreciate the input! 

[KZJonny]

100%

Do a *very* good flush, and maybe a caliper service just to make sure everything is good shape. There is also quite a lot of info on doing an STi master cylinder swap, which is pretty easy and gets a little better pedal feel. GrimmSpeed brace is a nice touch (I have one), but I am not convinced it really does all that much but look pretty. (But it's reasonably cheap, and it IS pretty.)

The stock lines have steel braiding underneath the rubber. Most brakes lines do, so the old "SS braided lines" is another expensive red herring.... But a lot less money than a BBK, and they do look good. (Many disagree, but I think the improved feel most people experience when going to SS brake lines is mainly because they do a proper brake fluid drain and fill + bleed when the install them. New fluid + no bubbles... crazy how much better the brakes feel!!)

Definitely exhaust all other options before the BBK. Plenty of GTs have been autox'ed on stock brakes and been juuuust fine all day, with the right pads.

[Jray96]

1 minute ago, KZJonny said:

100%

Do a *very* good flush, and maybe a caliper service just to make sure everything is good shape. There is also quite a lot of info on doing an STi master cylinder swap, which is pretty easy and gets a little better pedal feel. GrimmSpeed brace is a nice touch (I have one), but I am not convinced it really does all that much but look pretty. (But it's reasonably cheap, and it IS pretty.)

The stock lines have steel braiding underneath the rubber. Most brakes lines do, so the old "SS braided lines" is another expensive red herring.... But a lot less money than a BBK, and they do look good. (Many disagree, but I think the improved feel most people experience when going to SS brake lines is mainly because they do a proper brake fluid drain and fill + bleed when the install them. New fluid + no bubbles... crazy how much better the brakes feel!!)

Definitely exhaust all other options before the BBK. Plenty of GTs have been autox'ed on stock brakes and been juuuust fine all day, with the right pads.

That’s all excellent information!
 

Really good point about the perceived increase in feel because of the other services done when swapping lines, I hadn’t considered that too much. I’ve read that we have the biggest brakes outside of brembos Subaru offered, so I definitely get the potential braking these cars can have! Just looking for more confidence-inspiring feel. 
 

I doubt the previous owner ever flushed the brake fluid so it’ll be on my list soon. I’m considering buying a power bleeder so I can do it by myself easily, but I’ve bled brakes with a friend before so I can make it happen. I’ll do some more research on which fluid to run. Thanks again! 

[MoleMan]

22 hours ago, Jray96 said:

That’s interesting on whiteline, I had assumed they were made in Australia. I saw they had a big sale this year for 22mm f/r sways, and I’d have picked them up if I hadn’t just spent way too much on my b6s and pink springs lol. 
 

From what I have read the beefed up moog endlinks I got from rockauto should hold up pretty well! I’m definitely open to matched f/r sways. Looking at an alignment Monday, hopefully the light clunks I’ve been sporadically hearing aren’t anything too crazy. 
 

i currently have Michelin x ice snows on my stock wheels, I love blizzaks but I get 15% off Michelins. I drive in Washington and Montana a lot so the snow, ice, and random weather conditions make me lean toward some performance a/s tires while still having my snows for the crazy months. I’m in full agreement about the tires though, they’re the most important thing to me handling wise. Even my current winters felt amazing after taking off the garbage prometers the previous owner put on 

Montana and Washington

I'll give you Montana as I drive in Montana quite frequent.  Eastern Idaho and Wyoming here.  Mostly SW Wyoming.  I used to live in Vancouver WA so as you know when that ice comes it's bad..  The ICE X are good as I have run two sets of them.  They do have a mileage warranty and are the only snow tire to do that.  

For me I found the Blizzacks wonderful. But the cheapo GT studded are the ones I have been using on my daily to cross the sisters twice a day from Rock Springs to Evanston and the pass from Rock Springs to Lander two days a week.

As I said DWS are the only A/S tires I drive on.  Great mix. The Michelin AS4 or any Michelin to me the rubber compound is just to hard.  That's just me.  

As for the Moogs they are good.  I actually have a full set of Moogs sitting in a box brand new for my G37.  They are beefy.  About half the price of Whiteline.  

If you have light clunks it's probably just the Billsteins and your setup.  They can be a bit stiff at times and will give that sound.  If it's light it's prob not a LCA but ya never know