4th Gen Audio Discussion

[blackobxt]

Nah man you have to boost those numbers up. I’m a firm believer in overpowering the speakers. The best sounding system i built for a customer was in a Lincoln zephyr and had 2 JL hd 600/4 for the front a rear speakers. I put in c5-650 components in both front and rear and instead of using the crossovers I used the front channels on both amps for the tweeters and the back channels on both amps for the woofers. That’s 150rms to each tweeter and 150rms to each woofer then we did a 12w7 for the bass. That was by far the clearest setup I’ve ever done and the range was incredible but it cost a lot of $$$$.

I also amplify the stock speakers in just about every car I get and I’ve never blown a speaker, it’s how you adjust your frequencies.

Edited February 28 by blackobxt

[xt2005bonbon]

I was referring to the speaker wattage, not the amp wattage. But yeah, if you know what you're doing in setting up gains, etc.., you could safely overpower speakers a little making sure you are sending a clean signal. At home, I have a TC sound subwoofer rated at 500W RMS, powered by a QSC amp capable of 1250W RMS. The speaker can handle that wattage for about 3-4 minutes straight (making sure no clipping). It does get warm and toasty though. Gotta love the smell of warm voice coil

In my subie, I am still rocking the stock door speakers and overpowering them. 15 years, they still work!

[TomahawkLabs]

8 minutes ago, blackobxt said:

Nah man you have to boost those numbers up. I’m a firm believer in overpowering the speakers. The best sounding system i built for a customer was in a Lincoln zephyr and had 2 JL hd 600/4 for the front a rear speakers. I put in c-650 components in both front and rear and instead of using the crossovers I used the front channels on both amps for the tweeters and the back channels on both amps for the woofers. That’s 150rms to each tweeter and 150rms to each woofer then we did a 12w7 for the bass. That was by far the clearest setup I’ve ever done and the range was incredible but it cost a lot of $$$$.

I also amplify the stock speakers in just about every car I get and I’ve never blown a speaker, it’s how you adjust your frequencies.

What kind of active filter were you using for the tweeter? You would 100% blow up a tweeter with that much power AND sending a full range signal to it. Also the C1 6.5" component can only handle 50w and that's tweeter and woofer. Curious what the setup looked like.

That being said, I love car audio and it's a shame it's so niche. The few times you see any amount of car audio it's always about the bass. I'd love to see some Legacy GT audio systems.

[blackobxt]

29 minutes ago, TomahawkLabs said:

What kind of active filter were you using for the tweeter? You would 100% blow up a tweeter with that much power AND sending a full range signal to it. Also the C1 6.5" component can only handle 50w and that's tweeter and woofer. Curious what the setup looked like.

That being said, I love car audio and it's a shame it's so niche. The few times you see any amount of car audio it's always about the bass. I'd love to see some Legacy GT audio systems.

I had to edit my post, they were c5’s and the filter those amps did a wonderful job with the frequencies for both the tweeters and the woofers. All calibrated with the smd equipment we had that I absolutely hated lol. Tweeters are stupid power hungry, but they can take a ton of power as long as you keep the frequencies in check. And yeah, running that stereo shop got annoying sometimes. 90% of people just wanted bass and didn’t care how any of it sounded as long as things in the car shook.

[xt2005bonbon]

I do own the SMD gain setting tool

[TomahawkLabs]

59 minutes ago, blackobxt said:

I had to edit my post, they were c5’s and the filter those amps did a wonderful job with the frequencies for both the tweeters and the woofers. All calibrated with the smd equipment we had that I absolutely hated lol. Tweeters are stupid power hungry, but they can take a ton of power as long as you keep the frequencies in check. And yeah, running that stereo shop got annoying sometimes. 90% of people just wanted bass and didn’t care how any of it sounded as long as things in the car shook.

I love the full stealth builds. I have had some sort of car stereo upgrade in every car i've ever owned, except this one. The plan is after my to fix list is finished I want to get the OEM McIntosh HU and replace the OEM Navigation with one of those android tablets and then run the line level out into a modest system. OEM+ vibes. 

 

[blackobxt]

My outback is pretty modest but sounds good, Sony xav limited run head unit, c5-650 in front c3-525 in rear, my fiberglass box I built for an sundown sa-8 that someone unfortunately cut to fit a cheesy kicker 10 all powered by a pdx-5. It won’t impress a high schooler but the sq is just right for my piss poor hearing.

[xt2005bonbon]

I have the OEM radio still in place that is useless. I have been using my Nexus 7 tablet instead since 2016 now. Hooked up to a USB DAC, which then goes to an old school soundstream preamp, and then to a Phoenix Gold Ti2 1600.5 amp. Still stock door speakers. I did add a Dayton Audio RSS315HO-44 12". I custom built that box using the BassBox 6 Pro software. Very happy with the frequency response.

[blackobxt]

1 minute ago, xt2005bonbon said:

I have the OEM radio still in place that is useless. I have been using my Nexus 7 tablet instead since 2016 now. Hooked up to a USB DAC, which then goes to an old school soundstream preamp, and then to a Phoenix Gold Ti2 1600.5 amp. Still stock door speakers. I did add a Dayton Audio RSS315HO-44 12". I custom built that box using the BassBox 6 Pro software. Very happy with the frequency response.

Im familiar with that software, my friend used it to build me a 5th order bandpass with 3 6” subs that absolutely slammed with only a jx-500 in my 87 ext cab Toyota pickup. People used to think I magically hid 15’s in that tiny truck.

[KZJonny]

So inspired by this latest turn of events on the thread, I did spend some time going through the audio/interior folder before asking the question, but much of that is faaaar to gear oriented to make much sense to me.

Inspired by the possibility (above) of getting better audio out of the stock speakers, by amplifying them, I want to know how this can be done. Don't need an explanation here, but if someone can point me in the right direction or PM me or whatever. If this can't be done with a stock head unit, then forget it, changing that out isn't an option.

If I can make NPR (Well, CBC Radio 1, but I only the Canucks here will get that...) sound a little better for cheap, then awesome. 98% of the time the exhaust and engine noises are all I want to hear from this car.

Edited February 28 by KZJonny

[blackobxt]

Pm sent lol

[xt2005bonbon]

9 minutes ago, blackobxt said:

Im familiar with that software, my friend used it to build me a 5th order bandpass with 3 6” subs that absolutely slammed with only a jx-500 in my 87 ext cab Toyota pickup. People used to think I magically hid 15’s in that tiny truck.

yeah. I've built two enclosures with the software so far. We got great results each time. Nice flat response and when it goes down, it still sounds good. I have two additional enclosures to build, one for a 15" TC sound LMS, and one for a TC Sound LMS Ultra 18". That will be for movies.

[Tehnation]

I want a set of components for the front, with up to 200 watts rms each channel, but I can't find anything. Then I want a set of 2 or 3 way speakers for the rear doors with about 150 watts rms each channel. Would use the 4 channel 400 watt rms amp I just bought and bridge it for the front, then use my old 4 channel 300 watt rms for the rear doors. 

But these doors suck ass so not sure how many speakers can fit cause they need to be low profile. My subs can take the power of either of the sub amps I have. I have had these subs for like a decade, still going strong. 

[blackobxt]

9 minutes ago, xt2005bonbon said:

yeah. I've built two enclosures with the software so far. We got great results each time. Nice flat response and when it goes down, it still sounds good. I have two additional enclosures to build, one for a 15" TC sound LMS, and one for a TC Sound LMS Ultra 18". That will be for movies.

I’m trying hard not to fall down that rabbit hole. I’m currently running two 10” klipsch powered enclosures for movies and I’m not honestly satisfied with it.

 

also just realized we went way left field on Tehnations thread

Edited February 28 by blackobxt

[tysparks81]

I just went through the audio in my FXT, 4 pioneer 6 1/2" in all four doors, and a 10 in the trunk.  Front & rear speakers are powered off of a kenwood excelon deck, and the 10 by a 600w amp.  I'm going to find another amp for the front & rear speakers as well as replace the front speakers with a nice component set.

[Tehnation]

I have the alpine sps-600c for the front doors and alpine sps-600 for the rear doors..... they suck, well not really, they just don't have the mid range I want, the highs are excellent. They are all 80 watt rms. 

[xt2005bonbon]

54 minutes ago, blackobxt said:

I’m trying hard not to fall down that rabbit hole. I’m currently running two 10” klipsch powered enclosures for movies and I’m not honestly satisfied with it.

 

also just realized we went way left field on Tehnations thread

 

It's fine. Get in that rabbit hole. It's fun! But yeah klipsch or not, you need some good cone area for movies man, and some pretty good juice. My Denon powers all the satellite speakers while I am using some QSC amp (3K RMS) for the sub. Action scenes, and BAM, the house shakes like crazy . It's just a 15 though. Can't wait for the 18 in a proper enclosure. Lots of movies to rewatch after that.

 

Turned into an audio thread now . Sorry OP.

[blackobxt]

4 minutes ago, xt2005bonbon said:

 

It's fine. Get in that rabbit hole. It's fun! But yeah klipsch or not, you need some good cone area for movies man, and some pretty good juice. My Denon powers all the satellite speakers while I am using some QSC amp (3K RMS) for the sub. Action scenes, and BAM, the house shakes like crazy . It's just a 15 though. Can't wait for the 18 in a proper enclosure. Lots of movies to rewatch after that.

 

Turned into an audio thread now . Sorry OP.

I want to try a different receiver, currently on a Sony str-dh790 running in 7.2 and it still feels pretty entry level.

[LegacyGT007]

Sounds like you guys are into your audio. I've been running a JL audio clean sweep with a 300W 4 channel Crutchfield AMP. I installed CT Sounds Meso 6-5-3 way 500W component speakers. They sound decent for the price. It's good enough for me. Personally I prefer to do performance upgrades over audio.

[blackobxt]

I 100% prefer performance over audio, but I also ran a car audio shop for several years so kind of came with the territory. Unfortunately (or fortunately) my hearing isn’t all that great so there is a limit to what I perceive as good audio

[xt2005bonbon]

 

3 hours ago, blackobxt said:

I want to try a different receiver, currently on a Sony str-dh790 running in 7.2 and it still feels pretty entry level.

I've had the Denon AVR1911 for almost 10 years now. Been working just fine. Got it for cheap and used on eBay. A little outdated now but I still like it. What makes me mad is Redbox is going under. No more bluray disk to rent for cheap.. Been hoping to rent 4K discs from them. eeeee nope.

7 minutes ago, LegacyGT007 said:

Sounds like you guys are into your audio. I've been running a JL audio clean sweep with a 300W 4 channel Crutchfield AMP. I installed CT Sounds Meso 6-5-3 way 500W component speakers. They sound decent for the price. It's good enough for me. Personally I prefer to do performance upgrades over audio.

CT Sounds? Did you get inspired from Soundman car audio Doug Bernards ?

Don't get me wrong, I love to do performance upgrades too. Have not touched my sound system for years now in the 05. It just works. It would benefit from an additional battery or HO alternator though. Also, as I previously mentioned, that's why my 06 has zero audio upgrade to it. I don't listen to music in that car. The exhaust is my music. My original plan, years ago, was to put an 18 it. But then I realized how much weight I would add and the impact it could have on engine performance, and handling performance. Soooo, nothing done.

Edited February 28 by xt2005bonbon

[LegacyGT007]

I was looking for replacements for my Alpine speakers that were blown and came across very positive reviews. I didn't need much, so I gave them a try. Definitely good for the price and with the clean sweep they sound very clear and responsive. 

[TomahawkLabs]

This is where I feel like I’m in the minority. I drive my car on the city streets, so 99% of my driving is 65mph or lower 90% is 40mph or less. I don’t track it and it’s my daily so it can never be “race car”. It is super fun since the “extra” gear down low I’m constantly shifting from 1-3 in town. It’s like I’m driving in a F&F movie. 
 

Every time I look at adding go fast parts (engine) I think of everything that has to be done to “do it right”. A catted down pipe and tune would run me $1500-2000. I’d make more power and my 0-65 time would improve when I merge onto the interstate. Then there is the increased wear due to increased forces which will lead me into a very expensive rabbit hole. So the incentive to do that is rather limited. Because why buy the upgrades to not use them. 
 

I listen to music every time I drive, whether it’s an album or Twitch Stream there is always something playing when I drive. I don’t listen loudly so I still hear my stock car noises.
 

Putting that same amount towards a modest audio system including sound treatment. You’d be adding 50-100lbs of sprung weight mostly evenly around all 4 corners. If I have either of my kids in the car I gain that much but localized to a rear corner. It would reduce/remove vibrations in the panels and improve the overall sound and modernize the navigation to CarPlay.
 

Really make it feel like my Spec B is a grown up STi. I didn’t want an STi because they are visually loud cars that attract attention. The 3 main differences between the Spec B and an STi are: the engine power, the brakes, and the DCCD/Front Diff. All of which are unnecessary for the kind of drivingi my car does or will do. 
 

I’ve done and will continue to do suspension upgrades (STi Pinks/Bilstiens, OZ lightweight wheels) and hopefully a 2015+ steering rack soon because I can enjoy those at 25 mph around the round abouts and everywhere else I drive to. 
 

[blackobxt]

20 minutes ago, TomahawkLabs said:

This is where I feel like I’m in the minority. I drive my car on the city streets, so 99% of my driving is 65mph or lower 90% is 40mph or less. I don’t track it and it’s my daily so it can never be “race car”. It is super fun since the “extra” gear down low I’m constantly shifting from 1-3 in town. It’s like I’m driving in a F&F movie. 
 

Every time I look at adding go fast parts (engine) I think of everything that has to be done to “do it right”. A catted down pipe and tune would run me $1500-2000. I’d make more power and my 0-65 time would improve when I merge onto the interstate. Then there is the increased wear due to increased forces which will lead me into a very expensive rabbit hole. So the incentive to do that is rather limited. Because why buy the upgrades to not use them. 
 

I listen to music every time I drive, whether it’s an album or Twitch Stream there is always something playing when I drive. I don’t listen loudly so I still hear my stock car noises.
 

Putting that same amount towards a modest audio system including sound treatment. You’d be adding 50-100lbs of sprung weight mostly evenly around all 4 corners. If I have either of my kids in the car I gain that much but localized to a rear corner. It would reduce/remove vibrations in the panels and improve the overall sound and modernize the navigation to CarPlay.
 

Really make it feel like my Spec B is a grown up STi. I didn’t want an STi because they are visually loud cars that attract attention. The 3 main differences between the Spec B and an STi are: the engine power, the brakes, and the DCCD/Front Diff. All of which are unnecessary for the kind of drivingi my car does or will do. 
 

I’ve done and will continue to do suspension upgrades (STi Pinks/Bilstiens, OZ lightweight wheels) and hopefully a 2015+ steering rack soon because I can enjoy those at 25 mph around the round abouts and everywhere else I drive to. 
 

I don’t know if I’d call that a minority. My car is regularly driven 50mph or lower primarily taking the kids to school, jiujitsu and the grocery store and really I only exceed that three days a week when I’m driving the 33mi to and from work where I do 80mph. I can probably count on one hand the amount of times in the last year I’ve pressed the throttle past 50% which honestly I blame on gas prices more than anything. And here I am getting ready to put a 400whp combo in my Sti only to drive it the exact same way lmfao. BUT I do know that the powers there when I want or need it!

[TomahawkLabs]

The minority of spending money to make it perform worse at the racetrack. I’m 31 and because I drive it like an old man my insurance premium stays low and it stays in working order.