rjnakata Posted January 29 Share Posted January 29 2001 GT Wagon 5MT, 250K 75% of the vibration was resolved with a new transmission mount. Motor mounts are next but it looks challenging. Raise the motor and fish out the hidden back bolts. A vid shows removing the headers for the working room, but detaching the exhaust at the junction seems access limited too. Removing the oil pan has access issues for the back screws... Please share you experience on how you got it done! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublechaz Posted January 29 Share Posted January 29 I did mine while the engine was out, so not much help there. I also don't remember just what it looked like. But, perhaps if you undo the sway bar end links you can rotate it down and reach in behind the cross member with a stack of extensions? If so, being vertical you should be able to fish the bolts back up in there as well. I would undo the rears this way first, then the fronts, and I would get the fronts started before fishing the rears up in. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverton Posted January 29 Share Posted January 29 Oh yeah! the exhaust is there too, duh.. When you take the exhaust off do it at the heads and the spring bolts. you should be able to get the rearward bolt from the other side of the crossmember... just giv'er a good ole reacharound 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjnakata Posted January 31 Author Share Posted January 31 Well my indy shop wants $1700 to change the motor mounts. This guy on youtube says it's a most heinous job and to be careful of the engine tilting to one side with everything detached while lifting from under the pan. After I figure out how to remove the exhaust (there's no spring bolts and a junction hidden behind heat shields), I was thinking of lifting the motor from above with this Harbor Freight special. That way the motor won't tilt when lifted. What think you? TIA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublechaz Posted January 31 Share Posted January 31 I believe that tool is for holding the motor after a lift rather than doing the lift. (But the first time I had my motor out we didn't have an engine hoist so two of us just reached in and pulled it out by hand. 2 out of 10 would not recommend, but my point is a Subaru engine is a lot lighter than many engines so figure out if you think that tool can do the lift and be careful.) If you lift with that, keep your body out of the bite until you are sure. Agree, if you pull it up from above it will be much more stable, if you push it up from below it may tip over. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjnakata Posted February 1 Author Share Posted February 1 22 hours ago, doublechaz said: I believe that tool is for holding the motor after a lift rather than doing the lift. (But the first time I had my motor out we didn't have an engine hoist so two of us just reached in and pulled it out by hand. 2 out of 10 would not recommend, but my point is a Subaru engine is a lot lighter than many engines so figure out if you think that tool can do the lift and be careful.) If you lift with that, keep your body out of the bite until you are sure. Agree, if you pull it up from above it will be much more stable, if you push it up from below it may tip over. I believe a small 1-2" of lift can be accomplished by screwing the "Y" nuts.... Good point, it would be prudent to either use a strategically placed block(s) and/or a jack under the pan. Wouldn't want the hands to get crushed in that narrow space for sure. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomahawkLabs Posted February 1 Share Posted February 1 11 hours ago, rjnakata said: I believe a small 1-2" of lift can be accomplished by screwing the "Y" nuts.... Good point, it would be prudent to either use a strategically placed block(s) and/or a jack under the pan. Wouldn't want the hands to get crushed in that narrow space for sure. Thanks. I need to dig into this more. I am starting a list of ToDos and motor/trans/pitchstop are on that list. Trying to do everything in my garage and hoping to find out the best method for me to swap some of these parts out. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjnakata Posted February 3 Author Share Posted February 3 (edited) Update: I finally changed the dog bone mount on top/middle. 15 min. job for this neophyte. The transmission mount eliminated about 50% of the vibration and the pitch stop-"dog bone" helped another 25%. Removal revealed cracks in the bushing and separation at the large rubber insert. This improvement may allow me more time to prepare (psych myself up) for the (2) motor mounts. Edited February 3 by rjnakata 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjnakata Posted February 3 Author Share Posted February 3 ...so 2 down (transmission, pitch stop) and 2 to go (L/R motor mounts). OEM mounts are $120 each. Aftermarket $50 each. Some claim aftermarket motor mounts last 5-6K mi. vs the 200K+ I got on my originals... hmmm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KZJonny Posted February 13 Share Posted February 13 +1 for OEM I put aftermarket in my OBW because it doesn't get the love or money the GT does. I'm sure they'll be okay for the NA engine and it's whopping torque, but comparing them to the OE STi mounts I have for the GT or even the OE mounts I replaced.... I 100% would not put the aftermarket ones into a car that I drive hard. (Or has a turbo adding a lot of torque under load, etc..) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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