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2011 Legacy Limited 2.5i Overheating Issue - Help!


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I have a 2011 Subaru Legacy 2.5i Limited with only 62,000 original miles.  Here's the story - I'm looking for any input that can help as my mechanic and I are stumped at this point:

The car started randomly overheating a couple months ago, blowing coolant out of the coolant reserovoir tank. Parts replaced so far, all with OE parts - 

1. Radiator

2. Upper and Lower Hoses.

3. Thermostat (twice).

4. Radiator Cap.

5. Coolant Temp Sensor.

6. System Flushed twice, coolant is Subaru Blue.

7. Fans checked and working properly.

8. System pressure tested (twice) - passed.

9. Ran test for exhaust gases in the coolant and no issue there.

10. Car has been run connected to diagnostic computer and temp not going higher than 208.

11. No check engine lights, only blinks red temp symbol and overheats.

12. Both upper and lower hoses get warm but bottom hose temp a little lower than top.

13.  No issues with getting heat in cabin.

14. Water pump is circulating coolant in the radiator, its only a little over 3 years old and the impeller is steel, not plastic.

I just got off the phone with my mechanic and in lieu of all this, you can only get 7-8 miles before it overheats and the fans are running properly.

He scanned entire route of cooling system with a temp gun and temps were consistent with the exception of one abnormality - there is a coolant crossover hose that he said is in the intake and is about 12 inches long.  On one end of the tube the temp is 165, on the other it is 208.  

He's now thinking we're down to only 2 possibilities - 

1. That crossover tub is clogged somehow, prohibiting proper coolant circulation through the system.

2. Even though the water pump is circulating coolant, its not working properly and not circulating it at the rate needed.

He really does not think its the Head Gasket.

I'm about ready to trade the car in although I don't want to.  Any ideas or other things to look at would be most appreciated.  At my wit's end with this.  Thank you in advance for any input or ideas.

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Unfortunately I have this sinking feeling that it is the HG after reading all the entries from owners with similar symptoms on this and other Subaru forums.  Mechanic said he's not seeing the bubbles in the reserovoir or radiator others noted to look for and we did the test for emission gasses in the coolant too (although I've heard cars can pass this test and still end up with bad HG), which is why we're so puzzled, but many posts say all this eventually leads to the HG.  The challenge is weighing whether I have the stomach to continue along in this journey or not, whether or not if its worth it, or if its time to move on.  I'm already into it for $1,400 for all the prior stuff and put new tires on it a couple of months before.  My mechanic is booked 5-8 weeks out to do this kind of job (as are all the good mechanics in the area) and price would be at least $3K more in addition to all I've spent so far.  Forget the dealership, they're up to double that number to do it.  Trade in is somewhere between $6.5K and $9K and while the car is always garaged and in great shape otherwise, its still 12 years old and who is to say what else could wear out due to its age at this point.  I have a tough decision to make, not a great time to buy a car and as I'm nearing retirement money is a little tight right now, but how far do I throw more good money away?  I'd be open to any opinions pro or con, although I'm very discouraged at this point as this is the second Subaru we've owned that seemingly runs into a very expensive problem late in its life that is a pain to diagnose and resolve.

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Dumb question, did your mechanic stick an inspection camera down inside and look around? Also, I attached the Subaru troubleshooting guide for your car. Maybe it has something you haven't tried yet.

Cooling.JPG

Edited by Falcor
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There's been some further investigation and its pointing to the worst case scenario and at 62K easy miles that should not be the case.  I'm not willing to put almost 70% of the cars trade in value into repairs (I'm already in for $2,500 since the fall and could be another $3,000 to get to the ultimate fix) and then potentially have something else come up a few months later in a 12 year old car.  And the CVT can be another weakness in this vintage of Legacy.  It doesn't make economic sense to me, so I'm trading it in and cutting my losses.  I can still get a decent return on it for a trade as it is mint for a 12 year old car, even after I disclose the overheating issue (I'm an honest person and just can't stick it to anyone with a clear conscience).  Kinda sad but this is the second Subaru I've had that after a point in its relatively easy life develops some very expensive and hard to diagnose issues.  There's never any guarantees with any vehicle I know, but its been a disappointment given how reliable the brand is overall.

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Have you done any diagnosing of the car yourself?  Or only the mechanic?  If your mechanic came to a diagnostic conclusion on why the car was overheating and was wrong, they're basically on the hook to find it for free. A lot of those parts just seems like someone was throwing new stuff at the car and hoping something stuck.

It is head gasket failure and a good mechanic would have known that before charging you $1500 for diagnostics and a slew of parts. The tip off is that it will idle and stay at temp (where you say it never goes higher than 208 attached to a computer) but then over heats after 7 miles.  Textbook head gasket failure.

Edited by silverton
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3 hours ago, silverton said:

It is head gasket failure and a good mechanic would have known that before charging you $1500 for diagnostics and a slew of parts. The tip off is that it will idle and stay at temp (where you say it never goes higher than 208 attached to a computer) but then over heats after 7 miles.  Textbook head gasket failure.

 

yeah, it's a textbook issue on a car that it's a known issue for...i don't want to diss on the mechanic because it may be presenting abnormally, but...subaru overheating and a general guess of head gaskets you're gonna be right 9 times out of 10.  nobody wants to throw the heavy fix out to a customer, but...it's a known issue and you and the owner should be prepared for it.

 

OP if you want a new car, i'd really look at what's out there for....6k...you're not going to get much of anything for a car that needs head gaskets, so...whatever the repair price is plus whatever you can get for your car if what you're gonna be spending....175k mile camry?  or 62k mile subaru that'll be good for another 100k...

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I did trade the car and did okay on it (it also had some prior rear end damage that the carfax noted was moderate which hurt me, plus I was honest about the overheating issue).  Dealer will send it to auction as they don't sell any used cars that don't have a clear carfax for accidents.  Ended up buying a 2024 Camry SE Hybrid.  We are a little sad to be parting with our Subaru, but we did not have the stomach to continue on after months of this ongoing saga.  My mechanic gave me back almost half of what I spent on it for repairs and he's been good, really good on other things for my other vehicles - spot on, never a return for anything before this - but this one got him.  Perhaps not as familiar with Subarus as he needed to be to properly diagnose this sticky issue.  I did keep on saying its the HG but he stuck by the chemical hyrocarbon and pressure tests saying its not.  The HG job woud have been expensive, there is always the risk the CVT could act up or other things go wrong after I fixed it, so I gave up.  I am sure some of you will tell me I should have seen it through, but my other car is over 10 years old too so this cycles in a newer vehicle into the family mix.  Thank you to all that commented, offered suggestions and provided techincal guidance and information - I really appreciate it and wish you all the best.  Thanks again forum members!

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I have seen instance where a mechanic uses a rag to plug something and complete forgets about it. It is probably worth pulling th bypass hose.  If it the that goes under upper the intake manifold, that one isn't the easiest one to remove.  

I don't have experience with checking the exhaust gases but I have seen in other cars where the head gasket only starts to leak after the engine is warmed up.  

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