PGT Posted December 28, 2005 Share Posted December 28, 2005 Ok, I'm anal. This is serious overkill, but I used to do this for a living, so I wanted it done right. MBQuart PCE-216's front and rear Monster Cable 14-4 speaker wire JL 500.1 Sub amp MBQuart RAA4200 four channel JL CleanSweep sub = undecided Two layers of B-Quiet Ultimate on the door frame: http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/PatagonianGT/stereo/mat.jpg Three layers on the outer skin: http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/PatagonianGT/stereo/outerskin.jpg On the plastic cover to keep it from rattling: http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/PatagonianGT/stereo/plasticpanel.jpg Monster 14-4: http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/PatagonianGT/stereo/14-4.jpg run through the conduit (use lots of WD-40 and be patient...it fits): http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/PatagonianGT/stereo/rubberconduit.jpg Here it is coming out through the kick panel: http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/PatagonianGT/stereo/kickpanel.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGT Posted December 28, 2005 Author Share Posted December 28, 2005 plexi spacers: http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/PatagonianGT/stereo/Quartandplexi.jpg again, showing the predrill (critical to keep it from cracking): http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/PatagonianGT/stereo/plexiring.jpg detail on the speaker: http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/PatagonianGT/stereo/Quart.jpg countersink to keep the screws from cracking the plexi: http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/PatagonianGT/stereo/countersink.jpg 'dum-gum' to isolate the speaker: http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/PatagonianGT/stereo/seal.jpg sealed with 'dum-gum' http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/PatagonianGT/stereo/back.jpg extra seal on the back of the spacers: http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/PatagonianGT/stereo/readyforinstall.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGT Posted December 28, 2005 Author Share Posted December 28, 2005 make sure to use wax on the screws to mount the speaker: http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/PatagonianGT/stereo/wax.jpg speaker mounted: http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/PatagonianGT/stereo/done.jpg done: http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/PatagonianGT/stereo/done2.jpg this time with the vapor barrier reinstalled (very important!!): http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/PatagonianGT/stereo/donewithbarrier.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGT Posted December 28, 2005 Author Share Posted December 28, 2005 some install notes: make sure to dress the wire inside the door, as the window drops all the way to right behind the speaker: http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/PatagonianGT/stereo/window.jpg I drilled a small hole and used a zip tie to hold the wire against the inner skin: http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/PatagonianGT/stereo/wiremgmt.jpg Next up - tapping into the speaker outputs of the OEM radio and running 14-4 back to the CleanSweep. Also, 2awg wire and an Optima battery up front. I will have some challenges with space under the floor....I want all the crossovers, amps, CleanSweep and 1farad capacitor back there. Something will probably get kicked to the sides, but I set it up to be flexible in case. I think I will put the volume knob and RBC to either side of the shifter on the center console....in the open corners. Still undecided about that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msmith Posted December 28, 2005 Share Posted December 28, 2005 Looks good to me so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rao Posted December 28, 2005 Share Posted December 28, 2005 I like the spacers. Rob IF YOU CARE ABOUT YOUR CAR YOU SHOULD NEVER DRIVE IT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGT Posted December 28, 2005 Author Share Posted December 28, 2005 Manville - did you use 1/2" or 3/4" spacers in the rear doors? I went with 1/2", as I was concerned about the clearance behind the door panel. The front is pretty tight in that regards too - I should have tried 1/2" to see if it was ample to clear the window track. Interestingly, the factory speakers are molded with spacers in place, angled upwards. They also have a foam baffle to seal to the door panel, with plastic on the back of the panel to help. I trimmed the plastic off the back sides of all four panels, but the front still has some metal brackets holding the two pieces of the panel together - that's the part that worries me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGT Posted December 28, 2005 Author Share Posted December 28, 2005 I like the spacers. me too - you get a weird 'high' when cutting the plexi with a jigsaw, not to mention all the 'snow'. :laugh: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandwood Posted December 28, 2005 Share Posted December 28, 2005 nice work. I'm going to have to get you to walk me through talking off the door panels at some point. I'm looking forward to hearing how this sounds somewhere down the line. getting out of the legacy game Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockford33 Posted December 28, 2005 Share Posted December 28, 2005 nice work. I'm going to have to get you to walk me through talking off the door panels at some point. I'm looking forward to hearing how this sounds somewhere down the line. Wow, that will be quite a trick if you can talk off the door panels. Installers would be losing their jobs everywhere... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockford33 Posted December 28, 2005 Share Posted December 28, 2005 Pat, My installer has the Cleansweep volume knob on one side corner of the shifter area and the LED on the other corner. I can snap a pic and email it to you if you like show you can see how it might look before you drill. I think he said the bottom of the boot might interfere if I had wanted to put the knob directly behind the shifter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msmith Posted December 28, 2005 Share Posted December 28, 2005 Manville - did you use 1/2" or 3/4" spacers in the rear doors? I went with 1/2", as I was concerned about the clearance behind the door panel. The front is pretty tight in that regards too - I should have tried 1/2" to see if it was ample to clear the window track. Interestingly, the factory speakers are molded with spacers in place, angled upwards. They also have a foam baffle to seal to the door panel, with plastic on the back of the panel to help. I trimmed the plastic off the back sides of all four panels, but the front still has some metal brackets holding the two pieces of the panel together - that's the part that worries me. If I recall correctly, my spacers are 3/4-inch and they're tight... 5/8 would probably have been better. Creating a foam sealing ring between the speaker and the door panel is pretty important. First it helps prevent vibration of the plastic door panel, secondly it prevents acoustic energy from leaking behind the plastic door panel and getting buzzy or resonant. Just take some closed cell foam rubber, cut it with an appropriate implement of destruction (an electric carving knife works well if you have one) and make a donut that pressure fits around the speaker and between the plastic door panel and the inner door skin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGT Posted December 28, 2005 Author Share Posted December 28, 2005 nice work. I'm going to have to get you to walk me through talking off the door panels at some point. I'm looking forward to hearing how this sounds somewhere down the line. Thanks! It's very easy. The hardest part is just pulling off the two pieces of plastic that cover three screws. Once you do that, just pull the panel straight off....once you get the first fastener loose it comes off on it's own. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGT Posted December 28, 2005 Author Share Posted December 28, 2005 If I recall correctly, my spacers are 3/4-inch and they're tight... 5/8 would probably have been better. Creating a foam sealing ring between the speaker and the door panel is pretty important. First it helps prevent vibration of the plastic door panel, secondly it prevents acoustic energy from leaking behind the plastic door panel and getting buzzy or resonant. Just take some closed cell foam rubber, cut it with an appropriate implement of destruction (an electric carving knife works well if you have one) and make a donut that pressure fits around the speaker and between the plastic door panel and the inner door skin. thanks for the tip. I'll fire it up and see how it sounds this weekend and will do the foam deal if I hear resonance. I covered the door frame and the panel has some foam that inserts into those areas. Should make for a contact fit, so I hope that helps some. The panels were tight going back on, which is always a good sign. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGT Posted December 28, 2005 Author Share Posted December 28, 2005 Pat, My installer has the Cleansweep volume knob on one side corner of the shifter area and the LED on the other corner. I can snap a pic and email it to you if you like show you can see how it might look before you drill. I think he said the bottom of the boot might interfere if I had wanted to put the knob directly behind the shifter. Please do. I'm hesitant to do it on the face of the radio, as the shifter trim is easier to replace (keeping resale value in mind). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msmith Posted December 28, 2005 Share Posted December 28, 2005 It will be easier to reach and more comfortable on the shifter trim. The radio faceplate is a bit of a reach. Someone here mounted it inside the cupholder cubby, too... might be an option if you're to wimpy to drill a hole in your shiny plastic. You don't absolutely need the LED, either... you can usually tell which source you're listening to without it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGT Posted December 28, 2005 Author Share Posted December 28, 2005 Heck! I drilled into the dash of a brand new Ferrari 456GTA to install a cellphone mount back in the day. No Fear!! :laugh: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
msmith Posted December 29, 2005 Share Posted December 29, 2005 Heck! I drilled into the dash of a brand new Ferrari 456GTA to install a cellphone mount back in the day. No Fear!! :laugh: But it wasn't YOUR Ferrari 456GTA, was it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGT Posted December 29, 2005 Author Share Posted December 29, 2005 But it wasn't YOUR Ferrari 456GTA, was it? of course not, but the owner stood there looking over my shoulder, which made it worse. I still can't believe he wanted it right in the middle of the dash. $$$ > sense, I guess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockford33 Posted December 29, 2005 Share Posted December 29, 2005 Please do. I'm hesitant to do it on the face of the radio, as the shifter trim is easier to replace (keeping resale value in mind). That was my thought also. Easy to replace the trim around the shifter than the radio bezel. I'll snap a pic for you in the morning and email it tomorrow night when I get home from work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrasse Posted December 29, 2005 Share Posted December 29, 2005 Damn it! I can't take this anymore. I'm going to get a cleansweep tomorrow. I can't stand having Boston Z6, Diamond D6 amps, and subs sitting in my garage doing nothing. Ok,,, So I'm thinking of .. Mounting volume nob on the shifter trim as well. Now, is it better from noise resitance standpoint to have a twisted speaker wire run or RCA run to the back? (IE. better to have speaker wire from deck to CS in the trunk or have CS near the headunit and run RCAs in the car to the amp in the trunk? What gauge speaker wire is recommended? (I'll be running boston Z6 feeding them about 200 - 250W rms each) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rc0032 Posted December 29, 2005 Share Posted December 29, 2005 You have dainty hands When are you coming to Chicago to help me with an install? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rao Posted December 29, 2005 Share Posted December 29, 2005 When are you coming to Chicago to help me with an install? I'm offended j/k I am sure Dan would do a much better job than me. Rob IF YOU CARE ABOUT YOUR CAR YOU SHOULD NEVER DRIVE IT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGT Posted December 29, 2005 Author Share Posted December 29, 2005 You have dainty hands http://images.nasioc.com/forums/images/smilies/bigeek.gif When are you coming to Chicago to help me with an install? as soon as it's above freezing and there isn't ice on the ground. Brrr. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGT Posted December 29, 2005 Author Share Posted December 29, 2005 Mounting volume nob on the shifter trim as well. Now, is it better from noise resitance standpoint to have a twisted speaker wire run or RCA run to the back? (IE. better to have speaker wire from deck to CS in the trunk or have CS near the headunit and run RCAs in the car to the amp in the trunk? What gauge speaker wire is recommended? (I'll be running boston Z6 feeding them about 200 - 250W rms each) better to run speaker wire and keep the low-level RCA runs short. 16awg wire is the norm and more than adequate for less than 200watts over 20ft. I went with 14-4 as I found a deal on it on eBay - I had planned on 16-4. It won't hurt to go bigger though, but you do have a harder time getting a larger gauge through the doors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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