Deltaking Posted March 25 Author Share Posted March 25 I did the logo back to front on this image and corrected it on the final model lol as the deeper end of the engine cover is on the front Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobsyouruncl Posted March 26 Share Posted March 26 7 hours ago, Deltaking said: I did the logo back to front on this image and corrected it on the final model lol as the deeper end of the engine cover is on the front Don't see anything Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deltaking Posted March 26 Author Share Posted March 26 serious? And Now? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobsyouruncl Posted March 26 Share Posted March 26 8 minutes ago, Deltaking said: serious? And Now? Do now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deltaking Posted March 26 Author Share Posted March 26 Designed a Diffuser for the car as well still WIP, busy with a custom boot spoiler as well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deltaking Posted March 26 Author Share Posted March 26 Spoiler Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deltaking Posted March 26 Author Share Posted March 26 I have also been testing the 3D Printed O-Rings I made for the intercooler connecting to the turbo and to the Dump Valve, there are claims that it doesn't work... I removed my intercooler today after more than a month and the 3D printed O-Ring shows no signs of wear or melting what so ever... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deltaking Posted April 11 Author Share Posted April 11 Just finished the Turbo to intake adapter since mine blew... Going to redesign to make it easier to 3D print but connecting pipes would need to be extended, shortened or replaced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deltaking Posted April 11 Author Share Posted April 11 I also have another Q, The stock intake box with the air filter seems like it has quite a lot of potential and capacity without needing to convert to a cone filter. If I were to design a intake vacuum where the air comes into the air filter which would fit the entire front of the air box (Air box would need to be cut open where the current air intake is) would the car need a tune? My logic says no due to the MAF remaining in the same position and the piping/box internally still remains stock. Also one would be able to utilize the full volume of the stock airbox and the front air intake would still just look stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KZJonny Posted April 11 Share Posted April 11 2 hours ago, Deltaking said: I also have another Q, The stock intake box with the air filter seems like it has quite a lot of potential and capacity without needing to convert to a cone filter. If I were to design a intake vacuum where the air comes into the air filter which would fit the entire front of the air box (Air box would need to be cut open where the current air intake is) would the car need a tune? My logic says no due to the MAF remaining in the same position and the piping/box internally still remains stock. Also one would be able to utilize the full volume of the stock airbox and the front air intake would still just look stock. Probably yes. Our tunes are notoriously fussy when it comes the intake/MAF end of things. That is a pretty big change your talking about. OTOH - stock intake is very good, and generally accepted to not become a restriction until in around 350hp, which is quite a lot. Aftermarket panel filter is about the most you can do without needing to adjust something in the tune to keep idle happy, etc…. But prove that wrong?! Be interesting to see the results. And relatively easy to go back to stock if the MAF scaling isn’t happy with the change. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deltaking Posted April 11 Author Share Posted April 11 I spoke to the guys who specialize in Subaru this side, they said it shouldn't affect the MAF as it will remain in the same position and the piping remains the same. My car is in at the moment, when I get it back I will be working on this next. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KZJonny Posted April 11 Share Posted April 11 29 minutes ago, Deltaking said: I spoke to the guys who specialize in Subaru this side, they said it shouldn't affect the MAF as it will remain in the same position and the piping remains the same. My car is in at the moment, when I get it back I will be working on this next. Too right then. Is the purpose of this esthetic? I ask mainly because the OE setup is very good, and acts as a true cold air intake. Most if not all of the mods and aftermarket stuff out there do not improve anything in terms of performance. I've referenced CoverRussian/Shralps? experience with his tuner a couple of times when people have asked this kind of thing, and I forget how big of a turbo he had to get to before it was worth modifying stock intake. Not smaller than 16G + other mods anyway.... A buddy of mine did a 'front of airbox' mod that deleted the stock intake at/below the hood. His IATs are consistantly higher than mine, but he stubbornly keeps it for the intake whooshes. Understandable, but a little silly to me. I reserve ridiculous intake noises for my NA engines that don't get too upset about intake temp, etc.... (Looking at building an ITB setup from motorcycles carbs for my Datsun 510/2L NA engine, for example.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deltaking Posted April 11 Author Share Posted April 11 Got to love that legend Datsun. My idea is this: The current hole for air to come into the intake system on stock is a small rectangular shape. (I agree that stock intake is good that's why I don't want to go aftermarket). The snorkel (Call it what you may) which goes into the air filter box is limiting the air flow into the air system (Basing this on the fact that it narrows out before it expands and exits the air filter and gets compressed again into the narrow pipe with the MAF. I want the snorkel to fill the box exactly as it does just the entire volume of the box to allow more air in at a time before it is compressed into the narrow pipe with the MAF. (So I want a clean flow with into the airbox then the compression can occur after the air filter - If I am making any sense here) Theoretically if I get the snorkel to fit the same with the box exposed the air temps should remain the same or theoretically reduce due to excess external air coming into the insolated box. (Now that I'm thinking about it I can actually just design the one half of the box with a fixed Snorkel on it to do exactly what I want which would still make the air filter removal exactly the same as if it were stock... hmmm will need to ponder on which is more practical...) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KZJonny Posted April 11 Share Posted April 11 (edited) 18 minutes ago, Deltaking said: Got to love that legend Datsun. My idea is this: The current hole for air to come into the intake system on stock is a small rectangular shape. (I agree that stock intake is good that's why I don't want to go aftermarket). The snorkel (Call it what you may) which goes into the air filter box is limiting the air flow into the air system (Basing this on the fact that it narrows out before it expands and exits the air filter and gets compressed again into the narrow pipe with the MAF. I want the snorkel to fill the box exactly as it does just the entire volume of the box to allow more air in at a time before it is compressed into the narrow pipe with the MAF. (So I want a clean flow with into the airbox then the compression can occur after the air filter - If I am making any sense here) Theoretically if I get the snorkel to fit the same with the box exposed the air temps should remain the same or theoretically reduce due to excess external air coming into the insolated box. (Now that I'm thinking about it I can actually just design the one half of the box with a fixed Snorkel on it to do exactly what I want which would still make the air filter removal exactly the same as if it were stock... hmmm will need to ponder on which is more practical...) I think I see what you are gunning for here. All I am suggesting is that until you are at ~350whp or thereabouts, like 18g/380XT/ JMP Custom 16G territory, the air intake system is not a bottleneck yet. So, if this is planning for the future, then you're on the right track for sure. All learning and experimenting is good, and maybe you'll hit on something that is an improvment, and we all benefit. But thus far, dyno results have shown that the stock system is just fine up to the above numbers, at which point, you probably do need a short ram/CAI etc.... with a bigger diameter pipe + tune to adjust MAF scaling. My point was more that the time spent vs. reward ratio is unlikely to be high. You clearly look like you're good at this, so perhaps it's a thing you really enjoy doing, in which case that ratio probably changes a lot. I dislike doing work for little to no result, personally, which is why mentioned other people who have done similar and dynoed the results. On my mildly modified (Custom VF40 + engine back exhaust system) car, the COBB intake (even with the COBB tune) was hurting idle and low partial throttle operation. Going back to total stock + high quality off the shelf air filter solved the problem entirely for me. Edited April 11 by KZJonny 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KZJonny Posted April 11 Share Posted April 11 (edited) NB: This is coming from someone who just picked up a soda blaster, so I can spend hours trying to make the aluminium of my engine block and heads look a little nicer. Totally useless by any meaningful standard, and expensive to boot. BUT, I will enjoy the results and I'm doing it no matter what anyone tells me, so I totally get it. Edited April 11 by KZJonny 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deltaking Posted April 11 Author Share Posted April 11 (edited) I hear you, I have had the random idle dip since stock so I really don't know, just up'd the idle by 75rpm pretty much made it go away. Just found out the other day that my turbo inlet pipe had cracks in it which could be a contributing factor. Waiting on replacement parts... "sigh" the pain... Apart from a front lip, some diffuser fins and the boot spoiler I'm not sure if I will go further. Only replacing the Turbo inlet hose and throttle body hose with a Mishimoto hoses because I don't feel like dealing with the pain again as well as the TGV delete and Rev9 intercooler (Rated 420HP but I will never find out). I don't fancy the plastic ends on the intercooler and I'm sure the person I bought it from put a second hand one in they say you feel no difference when replacing the intercooler, I highly disagree car immediately responded better with stock map. I understand the guys want power, for a DD I don't see myself ever wanting more than 300 ~ 350whp the car is already fairly fast as is just can't see sitting in traffic with a monster being logical (Then again you get the guy who buys a Ferrari "Irony is that we could probably get the same performance in our Subi's for a tenth of the price but any way... different strokes for different folks") I love doing this yes and I can see you like to tamper as well lol theres nothing wrong with making your car look the way you want everyone has their own standard. Its something about the LGT that just makes you want to make contact with it... Plus I have wanted a Subi since 16 years old (nearly 20 years later I get one) Edited April 11 by Deltaking 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deltaking Posted April 15 Author Share Posted April 15 Anyone have the inner and outer dimensions of the upper TGV O-rings by any chance as well as height. Want to model and 3D Print those as well please. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KZJonny Posted April 15 Share Posted April 15 (edited) I can try…. They’re super soft, so getting a measurement might not be easy. They’re also *really* cheap, and boost leaks are a serious problem… really think it’s worth not getting new ones? Maybe just take measurement of the groove they sit in? That would be effectively the same thing. Edited April 15 by KZJonny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deltaking Posted April 15 Author Share Posted April 15 I sadly can't because I sent my car in... I ordered the things but import want me to get a license just to bring the stuff in... No local stock ETA is 1 month... So I'm stuck between a rock and a hard place otherwise no car for a while... I have already modeled and am using the O-Rings for the intercooler the one to the turbo and the other on the Dump Valve they work perfectly fine no leaks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deltaking Posted April 15 Author Share Posted April 15 I need to drop all my parts tomorrow so if I could model and 3D print those Top round O-Rings tonight I will be good to go for tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KZJonny Posted April 15 Share Posted April 15 6 minutes ago, Deltaking said: ut import want me to get a license just to bring the stuff in... Ugh…. I’ll try to get you a some numbers today. Will be out in the garage a bunch, so I’ll dig up those parts. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deltaking Posted April 15 Author Share Posted April 15 Thank you so much @KZJonny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KZJonny Posted April 15 Share Posted April 15 Best I can do man. Note the difference between the old vs. new type of o-ring. I believe they were updated as the OG type leaked over time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KZJonny Posted April 15 Share Posted April 15 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deltaking Posted April 15 Author Share Posted April 15 SWEET! This is perfect! Thank you so much @KZJonny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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