rporter Posted January 18, 2008 Share Posted January 18, 2008 ^^ I would had thought that you would have worn out a couple of Motive Bleeders by now. Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cole46_51 Posted April 4, 2008 Share Posted April 4, 2008 i can do the common things on cars, change oil, rotate tires:) not sure if i feel comfortable trying to bleed the brake lines myself, the consciences would be deadly and or costly to fix:redface: Just got some new HPS front brake pads as well as some ATE Blue fluid, and I called the dealer and he quoted me 75 for the bleeding and 75 to install new pads, so 150 for labor cause i am providing the HPS and the ATE Blue....does this sound reasonable price to do these two things? thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rporter Posted April 4, 2008 Share Posted April 4, 2008 i can do the common things on cars, change oil, rotate tires:) not sure if i feel comfortable trying to bleed the brake lines myself, the consciences would be deadly and or costly to fix:redface: Just got some new HPS front brake pads as well as some ATE Blue fluid, and I called the dealer and he quoted me 75 for the bleeding and 75 to install new pads, so 150 for labor cause i am providing the HPS and the ATE Blue....does this sound reasonable price to do these two things? thanks That's not a bad price.......AS LONG AS HE TOTALLY FLUSHES THE WHOLE BRAKE SYSTEM. I would worry that they would just bleed the brakes, and/or just bleed the front, since you are only getting front pads. If you are mechanical at all, a pad change and a flush is not tough to do. I take the attitude that I feel better doing my own brakes, rather than relying on someone else. Not only have I heard of brake job screw-ups, but I had one of my own. I had the car (not the LGT) in to the dealer for an ABS problem. While they were at it, they said my RR caliper was bad. Since I was scrambling to get things ready for a car convention that had a track day, I said "go ahead". Long story short, but I was getting a weird noise upon HEAVY braking at Summit Point. Turns out that they left one of the two caliper bolts off the new RR caliper (or didn't tighten it so it fell out). This was 6 years ago. I have done all of my own brake work since then. To save you the trouble of digging for it, here's the link for the most-excellent Motive brake bleeder: http://www.motiveproducts.com/ Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cole46_51 Posted April 4, 2008 Share Posted April 4, 2008 That's not a bad price.......AS LONG AS HE TOTALLY FLUSHES THE WHOLE BRAKE SYSTEM. I would worry that they would just bleed the brakes, and/or just bleed the front, since you are only getting front pads. If you are mechanical at all, a pad change and a flush is not tough to do. I take the attitude that I feel better doing my own brakes, rather than relying on someone else. Not only have I heard of brake job screw-ups, but I had one of my own. I had the car (not the LGT) in to the dealer for an ABS problem. While they were at it, they said my RR caliper was bad. Since I was scrambling to get things ready for a car convention that had a track day, I said "go ahead". Long story short, but I was getting a weird noise upon HEAVY braking at Summit Point. Turns out that they left one of the two caliper bolts off the new RR caliper (or didn't tighten it so it fell out). This was 6 years ago. I have done all of my own brake work since then. To save you the trouble of digging for it, here's the link for the most-excellent Motive brake bleeder: http://www.motiveproducts.com/ thanks for the quick reply. i will have to call again to verify that it would be a full flush of the system and not like u mentioned just the fronts. one other quick thing, if i did go the route of DIY, would 1 can of ATE be enough? and like wise taking it to the dealership, would 1 can be enough? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magnetic1 Posted April 4, 2008 Share Posted April 4, 2008 That is a fair price. It'll take you about that long (1 hour-2 hours) to flush and change front and rear pads. 1 can of ATE will be sufficient. I dont know how mechanically savvy you are, but for some people a brake pad change can take under 20 minutes with the right tools. Then again, Ive also seen it take people an hour. Proper tools = Cordless Impact gun or similar, jack, jackstands, sockets, piston compressor, torque wrench. Then also factor in having to dispose of the brake fluid at a recycling center. Free Sonax Cleaner Deal http://www.brakeswap.com Carbotech, Hawk, PFC, DBA Rotors, Motul, Wilwood, Castrol... Great service. No bumping required ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rporter Posted April 4, 2008 Share Posted April 4, 2008 Yes, one can (quart or liter) is enough. IMHO, I have quit using ATE, and have been using Valvoline Synthetic for quite a while now. Half the price, and virtually the same performance. Works just as well on track days. Plus, you can buy it about everywhere. This is a text table, and the formatting gets whacked, but it has the dry & wet boiling temps for each of these fluids. DRY WET Castrol LMA DOT 3/4 446 311 Ford Heavy Duty DOT 3 550 290 Performance Friction 550 284 Valvoline Synthetic 3/4 502 343 ATE Super Blue Racing 536 392 ATE TYP 200 536 392 ATE SL DOT 4 500 329 Motul Racing 600 585 421 Prospeed GS610 626 417 Castrol SRF 590 518 Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magnetic1 Posted April 4, 2008 Share Posted April 4, 2008 Yes, one can (quart or liter) is enough. IMHO, I have quit using ATE, and have been using Valvoline Synthetic for quite a while now. Half the price, and virtually the same performance. Works just as well on track days. Plus, you can buy it about everywhere. This is a text table, and the formatting gets whacked, but it has the dry & wet boiling temps for each of these fluids. DRY WET Castrol LMA DOT 3/4 446 311 Ford Heavy Duty DOT 3 550 290 Performance Friction 550 284 Valvoline Synthetic 3/4 502 343 ATE Super Blue Racing 536 392 ATE TYP 200 536 392 ATE SL DOT 4 500 329 Motul Racing 600 585 421 Prospeed GS610 626 417 Castrol SRF 590 518 I also recommend Valvoline SynPower to people, however, it is important that if you do track the car to change the Valvoline fluid more frequently. The WetBP is most important for street cars, because most people do not flush regularly. Therefore, the wetBP # is the # you want to look at. Since people who track their cars tend to flush more often, the dryBP# is one that you should look at if you track your car or change your fluid more frequently. Free Sonax Cleaner Deal http://www.brakeswap.com Carbotech, Hawk, PFC, DBA Rotors, Motul, Wilwood, Castrol... Great service. No bumping required ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rporter Posted April 4, 2008 Share Posted April 4, 2008 Most track folks that I know will do a flush for each track event (before or after, depending on personal preference). I do at least one a year, usually two. Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magnetic1 Posted April 5, 2008 Share Posted April 5, 2008 Most track folks that I know will do a flush for each track event (before or after, depending on personal preference). I do at least one a year, usually two. That should be sufficient. Doing it after each event is flushing $ away Free Sonax Cleaner Deal http://www.brakeswap.com Carbotech, Hawk, PFC, DBA Rotors, Motul, Wilwood, Castrol... Great service. No bumping required ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rporter Posted April 5, 2008 Share Posted April 5, 2008 Well, only $6 for a quart of Valvoline! Good time to check the pads, anyway. Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wsmith30132 Posted April 28, 2009 Share Posted April 28, 2009 Bumping an old thread... Has anyone had any luck trying to engage the ABS on jack stands? Someone on NASIOC said they have had success doing this. Any thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doobaruGT Posted July 15, 2012 Share Posted July 15, 2012 Question guys. Today I flushed my fluid and had my wife operate the brake pedal. I got all of the old fluid out but now I have a really mushy pedal. I must have air in the lines? The only way I can figure that happened is maybe she released the pedal before I had the valve closed. Can air be pulled in through the valve? I'm not sure why else this would have happened other than fluid mix. I have no idea what was in it before since this is the first time I'm flushing the system. Thanks for the input. Updated parts list since original part-out here. Original Full part-out of my LGT HERE! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scoobyscoodle Posted July 15, 2012 Share Posted July 15, 2012 Are you using speed bleeders or the factory ones? If factory, air can easily make its way back in if the pedal is released. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted July 15, 2012 Share Posted July 15, 2012 Use a clear plastic water bottle, or other clear jar or glass as a fluid catch can. Pull some of the old brake fluid out of the master cylinder and put it into the catch can. Connect a 10-12" clear vinyl line (small enough to fit tightly onto the bleeder valve nipple), to the bleeder valve and run it into the catch can so that the end is in the old fluid. Definitely DO NOT release the brake pedal (partially or fully) until you've tightened down the bleeder valves. Then release, pump, open valve while holding down the brake pedal until your retighten the bleeder valve. Any air that is in the fluid will be visible in the vinyl line and will bubble out into the old fluid as you force new fluid through. Once the bubbles stop (after several pedal stroke/bleed/tighten sequences) fully tighten your bleeder valve and move on to the next wheel. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doobaruGT Posted July 16, 2012 Share Posted July 16, 2012 Fixed it up fellas. Thanks for your input! I ended up just building a pressure system out of a garden sprayer. Lots of DIYs for those things. It worked very well! Updated parts list since original part-out here. Original Full part-out of my LGT HERE! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SBT Posted July 16, 2012 Share Posted July 16, 2012 Cool beans. Glad to hear it worked out. - Pro amore Dei et patriam et populum - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Industry Posted August 29, 2014 Share Posted August 29, 2014 Resurrecting this thread. If I go to the dot3/dot4 valvoline synthetic fluid is it absolutely nessecary to engage the absence after the first flush and flush it again? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thesavo Posted September 14, 2014 Share Posted September 14, 2014 Sorry to also resurrect an old thread. The FSM have said to lift and support the vehicle to remove all 4 wheels. 1. Is this required or necessary to make it easier to get the bleed screws? 2. I have 4 jack stands. Where are good resting points for the jack stands? Is the flat spot on the pinch welds ok? Since a whole person is going to be sitting in it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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