Outback XT --> Legacy GT suspension swap (can't find a build thread)

[Mr. Electric Wizard]

A while ago (I should have bookmarked) there was a thread I believe on here where a guy converted his Outback XT to Legacy GT suspension.  I'm interested in possibly doing this.  I was looking and KW makes a set of coilovers for a Legacy GT and not an Outback and I'd rather remove spacers and all from the Outback and effectively turn it into a Legacy. 
Does anyone remember the thread I'm referring to? 

[subisubisu]

I do not, unfortunately.  However, I have done it and I am driving the result (at long last), so I might be able to answer some questions.  And as I recall, we are not too far apart, geographically; a couple of hours or so.

I didn't do the coilovers, I did the Konis + hack-a-strut (Legacy, not Outback!) and Legacy springs.  Just off the top of my head, I did a steering column coupler and what Opposed Forces refers to as "Plate Arm Front - Rear" (that the upper control arm anchors to).  You'll need different length bolts for the parts you removed spacers from, and for those plates I mentioned.  Also a different "Support-Sub Frame" (basically a sheet metal strap) in the rear unless you want to re-install the spacers UNDER the "Frame Sub-assembly Rear Suspension".  I couldn't retain those spacers and still install a reinforcement for the rear sway bar brackets.  Bump stops are different, too.

Good luck!

[Mr. Electric Wizard]

I will probably need to replace one of my front Koni's as one of them is not getting full adjustment and is binding at almost one full turn.  How do you like the result?

I love my car, and I love the power but the handling at speed leaves something to be desired.  It's so floaty it scares me.

[subisubisu]

This afternoon I put about 25 miles of mixed roads on it, including a bit of interstate, making about 65 miles so far since first start.  Most of that was trips around the block wondering what the air-fuel problem was.  Now it seems to be OK, but I don't have a lot of experience with it.  However, I can say that I definitely am not experiencing "floaty".  Steering feel is a bit heavy; firm.  I did the 2015+ STi quick-ratio rack swap in mine, too.

[blackobxt]

This has a lot of information on it. My outback is on lgt stuff, let me know if you have any questions.

[Mr. Electric Wizard]

5 hours ago, blackobxt said:

This has a lot of information on it. My outback is on lgt stuff, let me know if you have any questions.

NICE!  Thank yoU!

[Mr. Electric Wizard]

16 hours ago, subisubisu said:

This afternoon I put about 25 miles of mixed roads on it, including a bit of interstate, making about 65 miles so far since first start.  Most of that was trips around the block wondering what the air-fuel problem was.  Now it seems to be OK, but I don't have a lot of experience with it.  However, I can say that I definitely am not experiencing "floaty".  Steering feel is a bit heavy; firm.  I did the 2015+ STi quick-ratio rack swap in mine, too.

I am really thinking about this STI rack swap.  How difficult was it to do, and do you think it was worth it?

My issues may just be steering related honestly.

[Febreze Mee]

1 hour ago, Mr. Electric Wizard said:

I am really thinking about this STI rack swap.  How difficult was it to do, and do you think it was worth it?

My issues may just be steering related honestly.

If your looking for less float, replace worn suspension components. To check if they are worn, carry out proper diagnosis for tie rods, ball joints, bushings, shocks, and springs.

If your looking for quicker turn-in, less steering input, more connection with the road, and a slightly heavier steering —replace worn suspension components AND get a 2015+ STi rack. It's worth, what it's worth to you.

It's a drop in unit and didn't require any modification to the car or rack (I have a non-turbo, so consider subframe differences). It's as hard as the videos showing you how to replace a steering rack are. 

[subisubisu]

3 hours ago, Febreze Mee said:

It's a drop in unit and didn't require any modification to the car or rack (I have a non-turbo, so consider subframe differences). It's as hard as the videos showing you how to replace a steering rack are. 

I did it with the engine out, so it was super simple for me.

[KZJonny]

3 hours ago, Febreze Mee said:

If your looking for less float, replace worn suspension components. To check if they are worn, carry out proper diagnosis for tie rods, ball joints, bushings, shocks, and springs.

If your looking for quicker turn-in, less steering input, more connection with the road, and a slightly heavier steering —replace worn suspension components AND get a 2015+ STi rack. It's worth, what it's worth to you.

It's a drop in unit and didn't require any modification to the car or rack (I have a non-turbo, so consider subframe differences). It's as hard as the videos showing you how to replace a steering rack are. 

Agree with this.

Start with worn parts, maybe Ideally the ones that are universal to XT and GT.

Consider stiffer sway/anti-roll bars, and bracing for the rear bar.

Best tires you justify the money on.

No reason not to go lower if that’s just the look you want, but it won’t necessarily help with the floaty feeling at all. And it’s a lot more work and parts than just fixing what you’ve got to start.

[blackobxt]

A whiteline rsb was an absolute game changer for me. I would have done it right away if I knew how much safer the car felt.

[Mr. Electric Wizard]

Whiteline RSB is definitely something I should do along with the brace.