peril Posted July 2, 2023 Share Posted July 2, 2023 (edited) Hi All, Just did the driver side wheel rear bearing on my 2013 outback (and by done I mean Jesus H I tried everything and right before I threw in the towel - it moved.) 1st - this drive shaft was stuck in the bearing - I had assumed it had welded itself in there - but after I beat on it for an hour - the shaft and bearing were moving (roughly - but moving) So As I went to reassemble - I see what I think caused the bearing to go and the shaft to be corroded. (pictures in next post ..) Edited July 2, 2023 by peril Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peril Posted July 2, 2023 Author Share Posted July 2, 2023 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peril Posted July 2, 2023 Author Share Posted July 2, 2023 So pretty sure this CV shaft cap or trim piece got dinged up somehow, stuff got behind it (to the bearing) - then thru the bearing to the shaft. (this isn't something that happened quick - car has 150k on it); so I bought another 1/2 shaft pull used - will compare, and if it looks good - will just use it - I figure if I put the same one on again - I'm just asking for trouble someday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peril Posted July 2, 2023 Author Share Posted July 2, 2023 oh - and what a complete and utter s-show getting the bearing out was. I ended up with the bearing shocker., and must have hit that thing 40 times with a 12 pound sledge before it came out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Falcor Posted July 3, 2023 Share Posted July 3, 2023 Now that sounds like a fun day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peril Posted July 3, 2023 Author Share Posted July 3, 2023 It felt so good when it came loose cathartic; I yelled and threw my hands in the air 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
creep_nu Posted July 5, 2023 Share Posted July 5, 2023 surprised it was so stuck in there, looks like pretty minimal corrosion on it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motorbreath Posted July 5, 2023 Share Posted July 5, 2023 With the bearing/hub shocker, do you think the bushings were absorbing some of the impact? I'm thinking for when I need to change a wheel bearing to rest the knuckle on some scrap wood so that the bushings don't soften the impact. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peril Posted July 5, 2023 Author Share Posted July 5, 2023 (edited) @motorbreath [updated] definately not bushings - it was the hub itself absorbing the impact, and not passing it to the rear part of the bearing; LEAVE THE CV NUT TIGHT UNTIL THE BEARING MOVES IN THE SPINDLE What did matter is getting bolts / nuts that are flat and right against the outside bearing and the bearing buddy, and get them tight; after that - the next 3-4 whacks did it in. I broke / bent 2 lug nuts using the studs washers / lug bolts. Methods I tried (all with kroil / pb blaster) 1) bolts from home depot (cut out existing stud hole) 2) air hammer (20-30 minutes) 3) bearing buddy - 12 lb sledge Things I was considering 1) chisel from the side 2) taking off the knuckle and going to machine shop or buying a press In retrospect - it probably wouldn't have been awful to press it out (on a big press). Edited July 12, 2023 by peril Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peril Posted July 5, 2023 Author Share Posted July 5, 2023 (edited) @creep_nu Agree the shaft wasn't that bad in the grand scheme of things - the bearing / spindle was the bad one. I get to give it another go on the other side next weekend; gonna be so fun. Edited July 5, 2023 by peril 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motorbreath Posted July 5, 2023 Share Posted July 5, 2023 Best of luck, I'll be fighting with my rears before the end of the year! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peril Posted July 8, 2023 Author Share Posted July 8, 2023 (edited) The last bearing came out in 2-3 whacks (and 5 minutes) - so all that I have learned in 3 wheel bearings in the past 6 weeks. 1) knock out 2 hub lugs and get good1/2 inch nuts bolts and washers and tighten that hub breaker on there good. do not use the lugs, do not try washers with lugs, you are going to destroy the bolts anyway - they are disposable 2) take out the speed sensor - (I mean - if you don't want to break it) 3) LEAVE THE HUB SCREWED onto the axel - take out the hub / spindle mounting bolts, but leave the cv attached to the hub - the compression of the hub nut lets all of the energy go to the bearing, and doesn't let you knock apart the front and rear seal of the bearing off by accident 4) WHACK IT GOOD (I got a 12 lb sledge but I don't think you really need it - it's because I was metal smithing lugs and lug nutz for my learning phase It will break loose, just hold off and loosen up the axel nut before you try to take it all the way out. If it saves you an hour beating on the hub with a sledge - it well worth it. Edited July 12, 2023 by peril Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnsora2425 Posted January 25 Share Posted January 25 I have a 210k 3.6R that needs the rear hubs done. I am on the fence about hub buster/bearing buddy. I have seen them work quick, not work at all, or separate the hub from the hearing. I am most concerned about the hub and bearing separating because then I am dead in the water and then have to replace the knuckle or take off the knuckle and find a shop to press it out. Then I'm out the cost of the buster and the press labor and my car is on jack stands until I fix it. And of course there is not usually a shop open on the weekend when I am doing the work. I have not found aftermarket rear knuckles (several options for fronts) and the OEMs are pushing $400. I am thinking about trying the method of putting in extra long hub bolts and hammering on those with a sledge or air hammer to push out the bearing. Perhaps this combined with heat and PB blaster. This is the method that Jimmy's Auto Clinic on YouTube in rusty Canada seems to use with success. May not be as quick as the hub buster, but there is no risk of separating the hub from the bearing. Anyone try this with success? I bought the car used at 200k. Front hubs were done, but when I did the control arms I ended up with snapped bolts on the ball joint and speed sensor. After unsuccessfully drilling out, I ended up with new knuckles. I REALLY want to avoid this for the rears. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peril Posted January 25 Author Share Posted January 25 The hub buster will work fine - do not loosen the axle nut until after the hub is loose / mostly free -it will come out after 2 or 3 whacks (and you will feel it move). by not loosening the nut either the whole bearing assembly comes out or none of it. there is enought movement in the 1/2 shaft that you will feel it.and then you can loosen the axle nut. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peril Posted January 25 Author Share Posted January 25 (edited) And the front ball joints do suck too (to echo) I ended up having a shop do control arms - and they ended up fking up one side and needing a new knuckle becuase they didn't know how to finesse the ball joint - Ii..e kroil and SLOW pressure over a day or so) For my daughters car - did it control arms and the balls joints weren't a problem at all with kroil and patience. I've done 3 bearings and the first one was the worst. Edited January 25 by peril Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motorbreath Posted January 25 Share Posted January 25 2 hours ago, johnsora2425 said: I have not found aftermarket rear knuckles (several options for fronts) and the OEMs are pushing $400. Does anyone have experience with the aftermarket front knuckles? They are dirt cheap on Rock Auto but I usually stay away with anything that starts with "Dor" and ends with "man". Apart from the extra cost of an alignment, seems like the way to go. Crazy how expensive the rears are, though, but I would definitely give the hub buster a shot for those! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peril Posted January 25 Author Share Posted January 25 I got the detroit axle ones for my sienna - and they made that job possible without a press - however - I still have the originals in case they let me down (and then I will buy a press) . I was looking at the sienna ultra cheap assemblies (knuckle + bearing) rockauto and some of them seemed like the hubs were thinner etc. The detroit axle ones were solid - but not sure if they have them for the subaru. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motorbreath Posted January 26 Share Posted January 26 They don't seem to sell them for the Subaru, but the front OEM knuckles aren't that bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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