Clutch Recommendations?

[Arcus]

I've got a 2008 2.5i Legacy Sedan and was just wondering what clutch you all would recommend. I know that going OEM would be my best bet as the car is bone stock but I was wondering if you all had any other suggestions that'd make the car a little more fun to drive. (Note: I'm not replacing the clutch for fun, it's starting to slip after driving for an extended period of time collectively. I'm pretty sure this isn't normal but can't be too sure.)

Any and all advice is greatly appreciated.

[Febreze Mee]

Genuine question, please answer: What characteristics are you expecting out of an other-than-OEM clutch that would make a bone stock, N/A subaru more "fun" to drive?

Recommendation: 

And it's normal for worn out clutch components to cause slippage. Congratulations, on your future KSB04 purchase  

[Arcus]

On 6/18/2023 at 3:27 AM, Febreze Mee said:

Genuine question, please answer: What characteristics are you expecting out of an other-than-OEM clutch that would make a bone stock, N/A subaru more "fun" to drive?

Being completely honest? I'd probably want something that's just a little different than what I've got now. Even though it's bone stock, I still enjoy the hell out of driving my car and was wondering what the recommendations were for something that's good for daily driving but feels different from the original clutch.

[Febreze Mee]

Different how? And why the desire?

[KZJonny]

I would politely suggest starting with a short shift kit, new STi trans mount and a shifter bushing kit. Flush the system with new fluid and adjust the pedal to spec…. Relatively cheap compared to an uprated clutch kit.

That will definitely change how the shifting experience goes for you.

No, it won’t fix the slip, but an OE clutch is fine for the power you’ve got, and I would hazard a guess that the money you save getting something you don’t need on that end would cover the cost of the rest.

[KZJonny]

Unasked for advice, butbest bang for the buck to improve driving experience is probably better sway bars.

Goodbye body roll, hello faster cornering. 

[Febreze Mee]

If OP is talking about shifter feel, I whole-heartedly agree with the above recommendations. If we are strictly talking about a different clutch engagement feel [via the pedal], my two questions above still pertain.

It's not that I don't know the answer to the original post. I just want to know exactly what and exactly how people like OP are thinking, because this had been asked and answered many times before, and I still can't understand the logic. And a quick search on this or any other forum reveals such. 
 

So just to check myself, and be sure that I'm not an asshole when I say "OEM" or recommend an OEM equivalent, I am genuinely (not sarcastically or patronizing) asking: 

Different how? And why the desire?

[KZJonny]

8 minutes ago, Febreze Mee said:

If OP is talking about shifter feel, I whole-heartedly agree with the above recommendations. If we are strictly talking about a different clutch engagement feel [via the pedal], my two questions above still pertain.

It's not that I don't know the answer to the original post. I just want to know exactly what and exactly how people like OP are thinking, because this had been asked and answered many times before, and I still can't understand the logic. And a quick search on this or any other forum reveals such. 
 

So just to check myself, and be sure that I'm not an asshole when I say "OEM" or recommend an OEM equivalent, I am genuinely (not sarcastically or patronizing) asking: 

Different how? And why the desire?

Hundo. I just suspect that if overall driving experience is the goal. Chasing clutch engagement feel with a non-OEM clutch is perhaps not the best/most economical path.

Of course, it’s not my place to say that isn’t the OP’s primary goal.

Carry on!

Edited June 19, 2023 by KZJonny

[Arcus]

20 hours ago, Febreze Mee said:

Different how? And why the desire?

I guess it really just comes down to wanting something with more umpf but not having the funds for it right now and I'm just taking the easy route by changing the feeling of the car. In all honesty, there is no rhyme or reason as to why I truly want to change the clutch from OEM other than just wanting to do it. 

Sidenote, I've decided to just wait it out until the clutch starts slipping under load rather than just shuddering when getting moving from a stop once it gets hot.

[Arcus]

20 hours ago, KZJonny said:

I would politely suggest starting with a short shift kit, new STi trans mount and a shifter bushing kit. Flush the system with new fluid and adjust the pedal to spec…. Relatively cheap compared to an uprated clutch kit.

That will definitely change how the shifting experience goes for you.

No, it won’t fix the slip, but an OE clutch is fine for the power you’ve got, and I would hazard a guess that the money you save getting something you don’t need on that end would cover the cost of the rest.

I was looking at this as well and figured that I'd do it if I ended up replacing the clutch. But now, after seeing that there is virtually no point in upgrading my clutch because I don't really have a real reason to, I think I'm just gonna go with the short throw and the shifter bushings.

Do you have any recommendations for short throw kits or should I just go COBB for the full set?

[KZJonny]

I've got a Subaru short throw kit in my basement, which I don't need, since I have a COBB in my car with the bush kit

Where you at? If your not in a rush, I can wait until next time I jump across the border to ship it. I'd have to look at what it's worth, but it's unused.

Any of the bushes are the same, as long as you get the kit for a 5MT. 6MT are not the same.

COBB are blue, I think Kartboy are Black, etc... in any case, you'll never see them again, so buy on price, they're all delrin, so all the same firmness more or less,

I know a guy who accidentally ordered a second STi/Group N 5MT trans mount, so I can ask him if he want to make a few buck and sell it on. If so, it can go in the same box as the short shifter.

 

Or, just go and buy it all new. I'm not pushing anything. But you could put the savings towards sway bars and rear braces, maybe some nice endlinks. Trust me, you'll hardly believe you are driving the same car. (That old clutch might not last long after that, 'coz you'll probably want to be doing some slam-shift and gearing down through corners more coz you can keep a lot more speed without all the body roll.)

[KZJonny]

7 minutes ago, Arcus said:

Do you have any recommendations for short throw kits or should I just go COBB for the full set?

If you're not going to be doing any autocross, I doubt one will be better than the other, really. I suggest buying on price more than name brand.

[pleiadesfella]

1 hour ago, Arcus said:

I guess it really just comes down to wanting something with more umpf but not having the funds for it right now and I'm just taking the easy route by changing the feeling of the car. In all honesty, there is no rhyme or reason as to why I truly want to change the clutch from OEM other than just wanting to do it. 

Sidenote, I've decided to just wait it out until the clutch starts slipping under load rather than just shuddering when getting moving from a stop once it gets hot.

be careful what you wish for. I bought my spec b with a bully stage 2 clutch and for the first 3 months of ownership I was dead set on ripping it out and putting an oem spec exedy back in. a new clutch will have a break in period, and depending on the material of the clutch you may have to deal with very shitty engagement for a long time until it breaks in. last owner did not break the clutch in fully, so I had to finish the job while learning to drive stick at the same time and it was awful. the bite point was at the absolute top of the pedal and had absolutely no range, not to mention that it was extremely stiff. it was an on/off switch where I had to take my foot almost off the pedal to get the car moving. this is because its some half kevlar half organic clutch, with the kevlar part causing the long break in and shitty engagement during the break in period. it acts much more like a normal clutch after it was broken in, but even to this day I will have a very juddery go from a stop every once in a while due its engagement characteristics. just had one today at a 4-way stop. I'm still not completely happy with it and its making me want to test drive a stock sti to see if the stop/go and shifting experience would be any better.

maybe an aftermarket clutch would work better with your driving style, but you'd really have to do your research on all the different clutch materials and their characteristics. same with the brands of the clutches - some brands will have stiffer pressure plates than others. for your case I want to recommend a stage 1 full organic aftermarket clutch, but I don't want to give any firm suggestions as I have not tried any for myself. good luck with your search  

[m sprank]

Its a 2.5i!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  Exedy OE Replacement KSB04.  There is no "performance upgrade" for the car.  Thats called an LGT.  A clutch does not give a car "more umpf".  SMH

[pleiadesfella]

oh... 2.5i... I COMPLETELY missed that part. I just assumed someone asking for a clutch recommendation would have a gt they're trying to get more power out of . this is what I get for trying to read 2 things at the same time...

op, just invest in suspension/chassis components and maybe get a catback if you want to hear your shifts and harass your neighbors. an uprated clutch in your case would be useless, regardless of the clutch feel. I mean if you have the money and really want it, go for it, but it would be wasteful just for clutch feel.

[Arcus]

On 6/20/2023 at 2:38 PM, KZJonny said:

I've got a Subaru short throw kit in my basement, which I don't need, since I have a COBB in my car with the bush kit

Where you at? If your not in a rush, I can wait until next time I jump across the border to ship it. I'd have to look at what it's worth, but it's unused.

Sorry for the delay, busy week. Located in the suburbs outside of Chicago, IL. Not in any rush at the moment, just working on getting my car in better condition than when I bought it.

[KZJonny]

No worry. I'd have completely forgotten about it were it not for notifications here, hah!

I'll have a dig around the basement for that part. I know it's there, but I'll double check.

 

Did you want the group N mount as well? I'd have to ask what dude wants for it, but that's just a text away. I want to say they're like $120 CAD new, and I believe this one was NIB. I'll need to see what the OEM short shift kit sells for as well. I have no idea, but would guess they are in the neighbourhood of $200 CAD? Dunno.

 

[Arcus]

On 7/4/2023 at 8:37 AM, KZJonny said:

No worry. I'd have completely forgotten about it were it not for notifications here, hah!

I'll have a dig around the basement for that part. I know it's there, but I'll double check.

 

Did you want the group N mount as well? I'd have to ask what dude wants for it, but that's just a text away. I want to say they're like $120 CAD new, and I believe this one was NIB. I'll need to see what the OEM short shift kit sells for as well. I have no idea, but would guess they are in the neighbourhood of $200 CAD? Dunno.

 

No worries, as I said as well, no rush. It'll take me some time to allocate my funds properly since school is so damn expensive and my car isn't a huge priority in comparison. 

To answer your question, I wouldn't mind the trans mount either, just the same ideology previously stated. By the time you're back over the border, I should be stable enough to pick it up however. Whenever you get the chance, let me know how much he'll let the trans mount go for.