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Reset ABS light without ABS code reader?


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I have a 2005 legacy GT wagon MT. The ABS light has been intermittent for a few months and now it is on. I connected the "White Connector" in the fuse box and read:

C0101 (Rear Right ABS Sensor Circuit Open or Shorted Battery)

C0102 (Rear Left ABS Sensor Circuit Open or Shorted Battery)

C0111 (Motor/motor relay on failure)

It is unlikely all 3 are bad simultaneously, is there a way to clear the codes  without buying a separate ABS capable reader so I can see if only one returns so I can just replace the one item causing the light to stay on?

On Youtube there was an example of using a 6 pin connector and 2 separate pins  inserting and removing the pin 3X in 10 sec to clear the codes but that was for 1993-2001 models.

Is there a similar procedure for the 2005 model?

 

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You can reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery for 15 minutes. After you reconnect the battery, turn the Key to ON for 10 seconds before starting. 

 

I think that should clear the codes. Drive the car about 60 miles for the CEL to return. Some of the big Auto Parts stores will read and clear codes for free. Like Auto Zone and Advance auto parts

 

It also has been found the rear ABS sensors tend to get worn on an angle.

 

DSCN7382.JPG

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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Thanks for the suggestion. I tried it, it did not reset the ABS codes, all (3) appeared again. Maybe it only works for CEL reset?

Autozone here in Massachusetts will  not reset any codes and they said they could not read ABS codes but then I have found I often get a different story from different stores. They all, however, said they would not reset codes.

Any other ideas on how to erase the codes w/o a reader? I was thinking maybe there is a sequence of pressing the odometer button since that is how you get the codes to read in the first place.

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On 6/7/2023 at 7:37 PM, CBRRICH said:

I have a 2005 legacy GT wagon MT. The ABS light has been intermittent for a few months and now it is on. I connected the "White Connector" in the fuse box and read:

C0101 (Rear Right ABS Sensor Circuit Open or Shorted Battery)

C0102 (Rear Left ABS Sensor Circuit Open or Shorted Battery)

C0111 (Motor/motor relay on failure)

It is unlikely all 3 are bad simultaneously, is there a way to clear the codes  without buying a separate ABS capable reader so I can see if only one returns so I can just replace the one item causing the light to stay on?

Most places that check for codes only have basic OBD readers that will only read/clear engine codes.  AFAIK they won't clear codes as there is some liability thing about safety inspections and whatnot.  But if it's been intermittent for a few months, and when you finally decided to check it's three things, how do you know that all three went bad at the same time? Just food for thought

With those three codes showing, I'd follow the diagnostics tree for C0111 first, both rear sensors share a joint connector from the ABSCM (the abs pump in the engine bay).

2005gtabsc0111-1.thumb.PNG.55d6756f315859f209b52a50a8014817.PNG

2005gtabsc0111-2.thumb.PNG.45b64c2b1c1007b615222b634d5dbbb2.PNG

Wiring diagram for the speed sensors

2005gtspeedsensorwiringdiagram.thumb.PNG.1621604a8ec0ace8dbc21df7e702f190.PNG

Edited by silverton
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On 6/8/2023 at 11:09 AM, Max Capacity said:

You can reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery for 15 minutes. After you reconnect the battery, turn the Key to ON for 10 seconds before starting. 

 

I think that should clear the codes. Drive the car about 60 miles for the CEL to return. Some of the big Auto Parts stores will read and clear codes for free. Like Auto Zone and Advance auto parts

 

It also has been found the rear ABS sensors tend to get worn on an angle.

 

DSCN7382.JPG

I just changed mine. Looks identical with the angle. BTW I have the same issue, I cannot erase the codes on my legacy.

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Well, followed the C0111 diagnotic tree and everything checks out. Good voltage and ~0.02 ohms where there ought to be 0-0.5.

Trying a battery disconnect code clear to see if that deleted stores codes.

If not, on the next diagnostic tree and maybe see if they clear with some time behind the wheel?

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So, for anyone else following along, I did the C0111 diagnostic tree, and everything is coming up sunshine. The harness is getting power, and the grounds are fine.

Next steps are the diagnostic trees for C0105 and C0109, which are for no or low voltage to the sensors... Since the sensors are new or newish, or at least, worked fine before I swapped to the Spec B rear end (same axles as before), I'm thinking either I am not getting voltage/signal to the harness side connector(s).

Ordered some longer alligator clips for my DVOM and will see if I have any pins small enough to connect to the tiny wheel speed sensor connections. 🙄 I really don't particulalry enjoy pinning anc back pinning stuff to find faults, but I also recognize that if I want to keep my old junk running, it's something I should probably get better at. Maybe start looking around for an affordable ocscilloscope.

If there is anything wrong between the ABSCM and the harness at the wheel, perhaps harness B98 is the culprit. Anyone happen to know where that is?

Finger crossed it is something simple, like bad ground at the end of the harness and I just need to clean and repin/replace. We shall see.

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Have not found a way to clear ABS codes so I ordered a OBDII reader on Amazon that can read/erase ABS codes for ~$45 used. Hopefully after clearing the codes, one of the 3 will reappear.

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  • 5 months later...

No luck, I have ordered (2) different OBD/ABS tools both of which could not read (nor clear) my 2005 (Innova 3020RS and 5110). 

To recap, I was successful in reading the codes using the jumper but need to clear them to be sure I am troubleshooting the right code (3 codes are currently  showing).

Anyone used any other scanners they can recommend that successfully read and cleared the ABS codes for a 2005 GT?

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Just asking, have you replaced both rear sensors ?

Or at least pulled them out to inspect them ?

 

They are easy to replace, NAPA has them.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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I have replaced LR in 2014, again in 2021 and the RR IN 2017 , they were ~$70 each so I want to be sure which one is the problem before just replacing parts until I find the bad one.

It is unlikely both went bad at the same time. Also the module has a code as well. That is why I would like to clear the ABS codes and see which one(s) return.

How do you check the sensors?

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Could be the bearing, could be the sensor, could be the half shaft, could be.... a 20+ year old car showing its age.   Wiring, contacts, degradation.

Not going to find a "retail" scanner that clears ABS codes.  Those are intended to auto-reset when the problem is fixed.  Even a commercial scanner that can clear them cant keep them from coming back moments after starting/driving the car if the error persists.  IIrc the regulations were written in the 90's.  Clearing them is not the easy troubleshooting solution you wish it to be.

Ask me why I prefer carburetor fuel system engines, cable driven throttles and mechanical brakes?  When a salesman asks if I want the tech package, I ask if they have a Full Retard package.  Like Ben Stiller in Tropic Thunder. 

Edited by m sprank
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6 hours ago, CBRRICH said:

I have replaced LR in 2014, again in 2021 and the RR IN 2017 , they were ~$70 each so I want to be sure which one is the problem before just replacing parts until I find the bad one.

It is unlikely both went bad at the same time. Also the module has a code as well. That is why I would like to clear the ABS codes and see which one(s) return.

How do you check the sensors?

Don't have the link handy, but download the 'vacation pix' for your year/model.

There is a pretty comprehensive rundown of how to diagnose the ABS module and also your wheel speed sensors. This plus whatever code scanner you have or just the dashboard C-code display is pretty helpful.

All you need is a DVOM and maybe some extended length leads. Helped me to track down a bad wheel speed sensor and explain the "SS" code I have in my odometer. Now I just need to fix said problem. 🙄

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Index of /ilh/vacation

 

There's the service manuals. I have that link saved in my Bookmarks, as everyone should. I also have the manual downloaded into my documents.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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1 minute ago, KZJonny said:

Oh Snap!

Oh, you young guy's... I've been saving things in my favorites/bookmarks for many decades. I still have a bunch of things saved about these cars.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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8 hours ago, Max Capacity said:

Oh, you young guy's... I've been saving things in my favorites/bookmarks for many decades. I still have a bunch of things saved about these cars.

I have a bunch of dead links that even the way back machine cant find. 

 

More importantly did you check out the ECM 2024 thread?  NY this year.  Are you available/able to attend???

Edited by m sprank
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Thanks for all your help.

First point: Since these codes are supposed to be "self clearing", If I read them with jumper in the fuse box I should assume that none are "Historic" and have been created the last time I drove it?

Second point: I just rebuilt the entire rear end replacing all 14 bushings, rusted brake backing plates, struts/shocks, and new rear wheel bearing from SKF. However, the ABS light was on throwing these 3 codes before I started so I don't think the bearings are an issue, others have used SKF bearings without issues:

C0101 (Rear Right ABS Sensor Circuit Open or Shorted Battery)

C0102 (Rear Left ABS Sensor Circuit Open or Shorted Battery)

C0111 (Motor/motor relay on failure)

The lead up was the ABS would come on intermittently, sometimes I could turn the key off and on while moving and it would reset for 20 minutes then come on again. Now it occasionally goes out but only for short periods.

Also the diagnostics for C0101/2 (ABS(diag)-40) require an oscilloscope (step 6) and clearing the memory (step 7) but I can try the other steps but it usually is the sensors that go.

One other thing I noticed from the wiring diagram is that the rear sensors have a common connector (ABS (diag)-38), not sure where to find it on the car?

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