Enlight Posted February 16, 2023 Share Posted February 16, 2023 muFreight.co A JDM Container Sharing Service from Japan to NYC Website | Instagram | Email Bessie II's Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted February 16, 2023 Share Posted February 16, 2023 (edited) Timing belt. Not an accessory belt. An entirely different story. 60k for a timing belt is not a bad idea, but probably premature for most. I would say 90k for the timing belt. I gave a good discount on a 90k + timing belt service. If Subaru says "inspect" that means "replace" because that is how dealerships make money. Also, in order to properly inspect you must remove. So if you have to remove it anyway... Due to the nature of turbo charged engines and the nature of most turbo charged engine drivers 30k for the accessory belts is a very good replacement interval. Services and prices when I closed the shop (2018) this is still my recommended service interval: Services Included in our 30K Mile Service Replacement of: Coolant (Subaru Long Life) (Coolant Conditioner added on NA Cars) Brake Fluid (Full Flush with ATE Type 200 or Standard Fluid) Transmission Fluid (Subaru HP or Subaru ATF) Front and Rear Diffy Fluid (Subaru HP) Oil Change (Motul 8100 X-clean, Conventional – Subaru Filter) Fuel Filter (if applicable) Air Filter Rotate Tires NGK Spark Plugs (Non-Turbo Cars) ACC Belts (Except H6 and 08+ WRX) Clutch Fluid Checks on: Brakes, Parking brake, Clutch, Suspension, Fuel lines, Exhaust Pricing: Turbo 30k Using Conventional Engine Oil & Subaru Oil Filter $485 30k Using Motul 8100 X-clean Engine Oil & Subaru Oil Filter $530 *On 09+ Impreza/Legacy (and cars with Subaru Super Long Life Coolant) $50 discount due to the coolant change interval being 100k miles. Non-Turbo – H6 add $70 (serpentine belt, oil) 30k Using Conventional Engine Oil & Subaru Oil Filter $440 30k Using Motul 8100 X-clean Engine Oil & Subaru Oil Filter $475 *On 09+ Impreza/Legacy (and cars with Subaru Super Long Life Coolant) $50 discount due to the coolant change interval being 100k miles. *On Automatic Transmission Cars, we will do a drain and fill of the fluid and replace the ATF Filter (Spin on Type), cost for AT cars is $45 Extra due to Fluid and Filter costs. **On Forester $20 extra due to plug placement. Services Included in our 60K Mile Service Replacement of: Coolant (Subaru Long Life) (Coolant Conditioner added on NA Cars) Brake Fluid (Full Flush with ATE Type 200 or Standard Fluid) Transmission Fluid (Subaru HP or Subaru ATF) Front and Rear Diffy Fluid (Subaru HP) Oil Change (Motul 8100 X-clean, Conventional – Subaru Filter) Fuel Filter (if applicable) Air Filter Rotate Tires NGK Spark Plugs ACC Belts (Except H6 and 08+ WRX) Clutch Fluid Checks on: Brakes, Parking brake, Clutch, Suspension, Fuel lines, Exhaust Pricing: Non-Turbo Engines – H6 add $70 (serpentine belt, oil) 60k Using Conventional Engine Oil & Subaru Oil Filter $525 60k Using Motul 8100 X-clean Engine Oil & Subaru Oil Filter $570 *On 09+ Impreza/Legacy (and cars with Subaru Super Long Life Coolant) $50 discount due to the coolant change interval being 100k miles. Turbo H4 60k Using Conventional Engine Oil & Subaru Oil Filter $600 60k Using Motul 8100 X-clean Engine Oil & Subaru Oil Filter $650 *On 09+ Impreza/Legacy (and cars with Subaru Super Long Life Coolant) $50 discount due to the coolant change interval being 100k miles. *On Automatic Transmission Cars, we will do a drain and fill of the fluid and replace the ATF Filter (Spin on Filter Type), cost for AT cars is $45 Extra due to Fluid and Filter costs. **On Forester $20 extra due to plug placement. ***On H6 Models $35 extra due to plug placement and quantity. Services Included in our 90k Mile Service Replacement of: Coolant (Subaru Long Life) (Coolant Conditioner added on NA Cars) Brake Fluid (Full Flush with ATE Type 200 or Standard Fluid) Transmission Fluid (Subaru HP or Subaru ATF) Front and Rear Diffy Fluid (Subaru HP) Oil Change (Motul 8100 X-clean, Conventional – Subaru Filter) Fuel Filter (if applicable) Air Filter Rotate Tires NGK Spark Plugs (Non-Turbo Cars) ACC Belts (Except H6 and 08+ WRX) Clutch Fluid Checks on: Brakes, Parking brake, Clutch, Suspension, Fuel lines, Exhaust Pricing: Turbo 90k Using Conventional Engine Oil & Subaru Oil Filter $485 90k Using Motul 8100 X-clean Engine Oil & Subaru Oil Filter $530 Non-Turbo – H6 add $70 (serpentine belt, oil) 90k Using Conventional Engine Oil & Subaru Oil Filter $440 90k Using Motul 8100 X-clean Engine Oil & Subaru Oil Filter $475 *On Automatic Transmission Cars, we will do a drain and fill of the fluid and replace the ATF Filter (Spin on Type), cost for AT cars is $45 Extra due to Fluid and Filter costs. **On Forester $20 extra due to plug placement. Services Included in our Timing Belt Service Replacement of: Timing Belt Timing Belt Tensioner Timing Belt Pulleys Water Pump Thermostat Coolant Flush Timing Belt Service Pricing: Turbo Timing Belt Service $775 Timing Belt Service (when combined with a 90k service) $725 Non-Turbo Timing Belt Service $745 Timing Belt Service (when combined with a 90k service) $695 Edited February 16, 2023 by m sprank 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jolbaru_LGT Posted February 16, 2023 Author Share Posted February 16, 2023 So basically every 30k just get ready to replace almost every belt, fluid, etc. Except of course the timing belt and spark plugs. Hmmmm, great Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
motorbreath Posted February 16, 2023 Share Posted February 16, 2023 7 minutes ago, Jolbaru_LGT said: So basically every 30k just get ready to replace almost every belt, fluid, etc. Except of course the timing belt and spark plugs. Hmmmm, great I'm no mechanic, but I think it depends how you are driving. Mainly highway miles with a reasonable driver is going to require more reasonable maintenance. Mainly city driving, or you are WOT every chance you get, then more frequent maintenance. I'm pretty hard on my vehicles so I do as much as I can myself, saves lots of money and time. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pleides Posted February 16, 2023 Share Posted February 16, 2023 I suppose if you drive 5K per year and live in a harsher climate than I that 30K every accessory belt change makes sense. My car has 240K and has been well-maintained and I've generally done the factory recommended intervals for service on it with exception to the PCV valve, oil changes (every 3-3.5K) and plugs. Driving it 12-20K per year and changing it every 2 years has never crossed my mind. The car is at an age now, however, where accessories need to be replaced. Can't imagine I have infinite life left in my alternator, for example, and the belts will get changed then. Granted, I have no idea how long the life of a belt would be compared to a tire. At 6 years of age, my tires go by both mileage or age. I'd probably replace a belt if it's been 6-7 years regardless of mileage. My car spends 90% of it's life on the freeway. It generally lives an easy life. Just my experience, and if you want to change your belts more often or do maintenance more aggressively than I do with the original 5-speed still in my car and this being my only car, go ahead. Regardless, these cars are old enough to vote now. You pick your battles with what isn't "quite right" in the car's age. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted February 16, 2023 Share Posted February 16, 2023 15 hours ago, Jolbaru_LGT said: So basically every 30k just get ready to replace almost every belt, fluid, etc. Except of course the timing belt and spark plugs. Hmmmm, great Super Long Life Coolant (blue) is good for 100k. 05-07 came with Long Life coolant (green) which needed a change every 30k. You can switch and increase the replacement interval. You can ditch the A/C belt tensioner and convert to an A/C stretch belt (08+WRX) and that should have a 60k miles change interval. You can do nothing and pray. Its a Subaru, not a Honda. Subarus were "quirky" cars with a loyal following, but low sales until the 2010's era. They were not known for reliability, they were known for low end torque and awd. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jolbaru_LGT Posted February 16, 2023 Author Share Posted February 16, 2023 1 hour ago, m sprank said: Super Long Life Coolant (blue) is good for 100k. 05-07 came with Long Life coolant (green) which needed a change every 30k. You can switch and increase the replacement interval. You can ditch the A/C belt tensioner and convert to an A/C stretch belt (08+WRX) and that should have a 60k miles change interval. You can do nothing and pray. Its a Subaru, not a Honda. Subarus were "quirky" cars with a loyal following, but low sales until the 2010's era. They were not known for reliability, they were known for low end torque and awd. Is that a thing, switching to Super Long Life coolant? I’ve never heard of that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m sprank Posted February 16, 2023 Share Posted February 16, 2023 If I am not mistaken the dealership no longer sells the Long Life (green) coolant. You had to mix it down with water, hence the quicker change interval. Rarely were people using the proper distilled water to mix down the coolant. Super Long Life (blue) is premixed. Price between the two was the same, but as most added hose water they got twice as much green coolant for the same money. Yes, you can use the Subaru Super Long Life Coolant (blue) with absolutely no issues (just drain the old green and flush) and it has a 100k mile change interval. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jolbaru_LGT Posted February 24, 2023 Author Share Posted February 24, 2023 So my Conti Belts were fine with 60k. I put them in my trunk as spares. But dare I say, my car accelerates a bit smoother and quicker with the OEM Subaru Mitsubishi? What I noticed is the Mitsuboshi's are ribbed with a continuous 4 lines around the belt, and the Conti's are kind of dashed with aggressive looking spaces in the ribs. Hard to explain, but they don't look the same. Do they run the same? IDK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scubaboo Posted February 25, 2023 Share Posted February 25, 2023 Lots of brands already mentioned for accessory belts and honestly does not really matter as long as they come from an actual belt maker. Conti/Dayco/Mitsuboshi/Goodyear/etc. The most important thing you can do is regular inspections. It's easy to see their condition anytime the hood is up. I just look at the grooves and replace at any sign of fine cracking. I also replace if there is any type of damage to the grooves along with an inspection of all components to determine cause. An occasional peek while running to check for any wobble is good too. Noticing a wobble at the main pulley saved me from a crankshaft replacement in another car, so I do this often now. I also like to check all pullies while the belts are out to see if the bearings are good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jolbaru_LGT Posted February 26, 2023 Author Share Posted February 26, 2023 (edited) Yeah, I seem to be having a hard time adjusting the belts. Are there any “how to’s” in adjusting the tensions? Mainly the belt going to the A/C compressor? I just can’t seem to find any info on it, and I feel like I’m blindly messing with it, to get it right. That adjustment rod with the nuts attached to the pulley? Lol, it’s got me doing trial and error adjustments trying to get it right. Kinda maddening because honestly, I don’t know what I’m doing. I feel like I get it pretty close, then I’ll get a slight squeal on startup or then a squeal when turning tightly(locking the steering wheel at slow speed) if anyone can help that would be awesome! Edited February 26, 2023 by Jolbaru_LGT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jolbaru_LGT Posted February 26, 2023 Author Share Posted February 26, 2023 Never mind I think I got it. It helps to keep a couple fingers on the belt tension wise while you’re moving the adjustment bolt on the rod. Easy to see if it’s getting more or less taught that way. Seems also a little chirp initially when starting it up is normal. If it’s too loose, it’ll squeal when locking the steering wheel. That’s from my observations anyways. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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