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My ‘05 OBXT journal


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I was checking the engine oil dipstick the other day after I filled up the motor, (which btw the tube is bent forward for some odd reason), and it was reading above the upper fill mark..

Well, I'm glad I re-checked the FSM because I definitely overfilled the motor. I didn't "overhaul" the engine, I replaced its oil.. so the amount to fill should be 4.2 Qts, not the 5.0 Qts I put in..

I guess it takes an extra 1.1 Qt to fill up all the galleries..

 

20x engine oil capacity.jpg

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3 hours ago, KZJonny said:

Fair enough!

You can get copper tubing if you wanted to have constant oil pressure monitoring, but again... vanilla engine and tune, you'll probably notice other problems before an oil press gauge will save you.

I was planning on putting mine in permanently, just because I figure it might be the first sign of wear/mechanical problems, but we shall see.

I saw the copper tubing on a video the other day.. pretty cool. What do you think are the odds of oil will squirt out inside the cabin though? That would suck..

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29 minutes ago, RumblyXT said:

I saw the copper tubing on a video the other day.. pretty cool. What do you think are the odds of oil will squirt out inside the cabin though? That would suck..

Do this install right the first time, make sure nothing is rubbing on anything else and put a ziploc over the whole thing on the first couple start ups. Odds are extremely low.

At least, that is my plan….

Digital gauges are great, for sure. But nothing wrong with a properly installed mechanical gauge either. I use lots at work that see tons of use under harsher conditions. Have yet to see one fail in many years of using them.

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Ziploc bag is a good idea, just in case.

And what of an oil switch related CEL light since the connector will be off? Or you'll find a way to keep it connected?

You're planning on using the front or the rear oil plug you mentioned? I heard the front oil switch/area is more accurate? Since it's the starting point of oil being pushed out/distributed from there to the rest of the motor.

Is plug 26, 27 you're referring to? Probably difficult to get now that everything else is installed.

C487DC3B-8ABE-4EAA-BD71-5142BA0395C6.jpeg

Edited by RumblyXT
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Question.. What normal psi range values should I see once engine is warming up the first time? 14 psi to ??

I'd imagine at the beginning, right after fire up the pressure will rise quite a lot, then stabilize, going down till operating temp correct?

How should I check oil pressure at higher RPMs if my motor hasn't been tuned yet? I honestly don't want to rev it to 6K yet.. Again, I might be overthinking things, but just want to be sure..

Oil pressure.jpg

Edited by RumblyXT
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Ended up chopping a good 8-9” of the CAI. Semi Short Ram intake now.. just waiting on that oil pressure gauge, then goes the radiator and this baby gets fired up!

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This has to be the weirdest looking dipstick oil tube ever.. not sure why it’s bent forward this way. I looked for signs of stress along it and it was fine.. plus none of the pictures I’ve seen online of the 20x motors have these tubes bent..weird. Maybe it was from the engine being stacked..

7B00EF35-441B-4458-99EE-4B1A5480D4A3.jpeg

Edited by RumblyXT
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On 6/29/2023 at 9:51 AM, RumblyXT said:

We finally got the I/C on.. a little difficult but between two people it’s a lot better mounting it.

Freaking Miami weather! Holy cow.. it truly feels over 100 degrees..

 

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I believe you have the resistor on the wrong connector. There are 2 connectors that look the same with the orange piece. The one on the intake wiring harness is the dummy wire for the pcv system (only needs continuity) and the EGT connector is on the same harness as the MAF sensor connector and front 02 sensor connector but closer to the firewall.

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2 hours ago, RumblyXT said:

Ended up chopping a good 8-9” of the CAI. Semi Short Ram intake now.. just waiting on that oil pressure gauge, then goes the radiator and this baby gets fired up!

B94057C4-636E-4A6C-A362-03BC8A3429D3.jpeg

2481BEC5-4FAD-49ED-AEE6-B5A712FF39CA.jpeg
This has to be the weirdest looking dipstick oil tube ever.. not sure why it’s bent forward this way. I looked for signs of stress along it and it was fine.. plus none of the pictures I’ve seen online of the 20x motors have these tubes bent..weird. Maybe it was from the engine being stacked..

7B00EF35-441B-4458-99EE-4B1A5480D4A3.jpeg

That oil dipstick needs to be rotated counterclockwise about 90 degrees.

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2 hours ago, rhino6303 said:

I believe you have the resistor on the wrong connector. There are 2 connectors that look the same with the orange piece. The one on the intake wiring harness is the dummy wire for the pcv system (only needs continuity) and the EGT connector is on the same harness as the MAF sensor connector and front 02 sensor connector but closer to the firewall.

Oh thank you.. I appreciate the correction!

I might have understood wrong what KZJonny explained before.. I thought the resistor gets plugged in into the EGT connector at the engine wiring harness; I remember such connector having a flat metal clip inside (I'll take a pic of it tomorrow)..

I think I understand it now..  So the resistor goes into EGT connector by the firewall/passenger side, correct?

EGT with resistor location.jpg

Edited by RumblyXT
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2 hours ago, rhino6303 said:

That oil dipstick needs to be rotated counterclockwise about 90 degrees.

What I meant was this weird curvature noted by the red lines.. All others I've seen are straight up, not slanted to the front.

..and I tried it different ways before mounting it, that's the only way it could go.

ej20x bent dipstick tube.jpg

Edited by RumblyXT
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1 hour ago, RumblyXT said:

Oh thank you.. I appreciate the correction!

I might have understood wrong what KZJonny explained before.. I thought the resistor gets plugged in into the EGT connector at the engine wiring harness; I remember such connector having a flat metal clip inside (I'll take a pic of it tomorrow)..

I think I understand it now..  So the resistor goes into EGT connector by the firewall/passenger side, correct?

EGT with resistor location.jpg

That's correct for where you put the resistor.

Then just put a paperclip or something in the one where you originally had the resistor.

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13 minutes ago, rhino6303 said:

That's correct for where you put the resistor.

Then just put a paperclip or something in the one where you originally had the resistor.

Got it.. Now I understand why it had that flat clip in it on the engine harness side.. Thanks again.

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10 minutes ago, rhino6303 said:

I'm guessing the dipstick got bent. You can bend it back.

Nah man.. believe, me I tried. There's no way of straightening that thing, not worth it, might end up kinked. I'll just leave it this way. Might be wrong from factory for all I know lol

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Just jumping in on this but very cool build. On my car I shoved a 2.2k ohm resistor in the plug for the egt sensor and tapped it up, I've had to replace the resistor twice over a few years so you might want to keep some spares in the glove box, I think they burn up or something after a while. I always make new ground straps to both the cylinder heads too at minimum, I think they are beneficial. Extra probably wont hurt but the ones to the heads are most important. 

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Thank you and welcome. 
Did you also do an ej20x swap?
Appreciate the info on the resistors, I got plenty of them left as they were pretty cheap on Amazon.
I should be able to fire up the engine soon, stick around.

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Almost ready to go guys!

Relocated the resistor by the firewall EGT connector where it was supposed to go and put the clip in the plug under the I/C for continuity.

Radiator/hoses are ready and added 1.5g of coolant.. but I need about 2 more liters since this thing takes about 7.7 in total.. first thing in the morning.

And of course Miami weather again being so helpful.. every time I decide to work on the car, it rains.. lol

 

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Edited by RumblyXT
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I’m looking for a jdm ej20x turbo heat shield, but can’t find one anywhere.. and since the jdm motor has different shape turbo brackets, the USDM OEM heat shield probably won’t fit.
I’ve searched eBay for turbo heat shields, but all I see are T3, T4, etc..

Compared to a VF38, VF52 stock turbo size on our cars, are T3, T4 shields more or less the same size? 
If you guys can recommend one that works and won’t brake the bank, I’m all ears.. 

Edited by RumblyXT
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Gah, beat me to it by like 15 seconds 😆! That’s probably what I’ll do when I EJ20 swap mine here in the coming weeks, too, as that lower heat shield is a PITA…and for some reason, my OBXT didn’t have any at all when I bought it.

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Well guys.. I have great news!

Couldn't wait for that oil pressure gauge lol.. filled up the rest of the coolant, removed the excess oil in the motor, finished up a couple of other things that were left to do.. and started cracking the motor.. got so excited after seeing oil on the turbo feed line and bottom of the motor with the filter off.. this method works great to make sure engine is primed.

Anyways, then I installed the alternator and the accessory belts.. almost ran the battery out of charge lol

Engine is super smooth, quiet and has no funny noises.. she sounds like one of those vintage Singer sewing machines..

I do have a check engine light so I have to see what that’s about.. I connected my scanner but its 9V battery ran out.. will check later. (PS: this ended up being the Left ground that wasn’t connected. Soon as I reconnected the ground wire, both fault codes disappeared)..

Now just needs a tune and off she goes..

She runs again!!!!!

121D9668-F0D0-40FD-A73D-6A3AB03043AD.jpeg
 

 

Edited by RumblyXT
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