xt2005bonbon Posted February 7, 2022 Share Posted February 7, 2022 I also moved over the pitch stop mount and sensors from my original 5mt. Just doing a few slow things while I wait for the starter (mine is throwing a code every now and then) and gasket set. Your starter is throwing a code? Which code? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infosecdad Posted February 7, 2022 Author Share Posted February 7, 2022 Your starter is throwing a code? Which code? It's an original starter, so I think it's starting to go out as it acts up from time to time as well. It's either 220k or 130k, I don't remember if it is my original Legacy starter or the donor OB starter. If I remember correctly, it's P1518 - Starter Switch Circuit Low Input and when it's set I get the flashing cruise and CEL (and no cruise). It's really more preventative for me like replacing all the seals and gaskets as I hate having to go back in again after doing major work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted February 7, 2022 Share Posted February 7, 2022 Have you ever regreased it? Did it ever make noise or something? I regreased both of mine (by taking them apart -- there's a thread somewhere) and they have never acted up since. They began acting up when it was cold outside I remember. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infosecdad Posted February 7, 2022 Author Share Posted February 7, 2022 Have you ever regreased it? Did it ever make noise or something? I regreased both of mine (by taking them apart -- there's a thread somewhere) and they have never acted up since. They began acting up when it was cold outside I remember. I haven't tried regreasing it yet. I interpreted the code as like a solenoid issue as the wiring is new (replaced the main lines last year). I have an older spare that is flaky that I'll send back as the core charge and try regreasing this one for a back up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infosecdad Posted February 12, 2022 Author Share Posted February 12, 2022 Finally got everything in that I ordered, that took a while. New axle seals and clean up for the rear diff Boomba clone plate for 40% of the cost (actually free because it took Amazon a week to ship it when it was supposed to be prime; so I got a refund. New axle and rear seals, everything moved over I can until I take out the 5mt 1320 short shifter and shift stop installed and greased. Probably looking at the first week of March for install. First time I have gap in doctoral classes and part of the family is heading out for a week of vacation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottydunno Posted February 12, 2022 Share Posted February 12, 2022 How hard was it to install the short shifter? How much shorter is it from stock? Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infosecdad Posted February 12, 2022 Author Share Posted February 12, 2022 How hard was it to install the short shifter? How much shorter is it from stock? Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk Fairly easy, there are a bunch of install videos on Youtube for them. There are two parts that contribute to shortening the shift motion, the shifter rod and the shift plate on the transmission. Each individually claims around 30% and they are supposed to be around 50% total if you install both. There are a number of companies that sell both parts. I ended up going with 1320 because they had a full package with the shorter shift rod, shift blocker, and brass bushing. I started with a perrin shifter plate adapter for the transmission part, but shifted to a boomba clone as I read more about the counter-weighting on the shift plate and its effect on level of effort and notchiness in the shifting. Perrin is nice and simple, but doesn't have the counter-weights so it is generally considered more notchy feeling, where as the boomba style has heavier counter-weights and generally is reported to enable smoother shifting. But all this is similar to exhaust, it's a lot of personal taste in how the shifter feels. I'm a big fan of short, smooth, solid shift movement. And since I have full access to the transmission before install, I figured it was a good time as any to make any modifications. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infosecdad Posted February 20, 2022 Author Share Posted February 20, 2022 Getting anxious to get to work on it. Looks like I'll start in a week or so. Have a week to get over COVID v2 and get caught up on work. I'll have a week to finish, hopefully my Long COVID doesn't flare up too much and prevent me from getting done. Here is my list so far of what steps I'm working on. Initial Steps - Remove TMIC - Disconnect downpipe from turbo - Disconnect tranny wiring - Remove starter - Remove nuts/bolts from bellhousing Lift on Quickjacks - Remove downpipe and mid-pipe - Drain tranny fluid - Drain rear diff (because I have to replace my diff) - Remove driveshaft Rear Diff - Remove rear axles from diff - Remove rear diff - Install new seals in 4.11 diff - Install 4.11 diff - Reinsert rear axles Transmission - Remove front struts to replace the clunky top hats - Remove front axles from tranny - Disconnect shifter mechanism - Support transmission - Remove transmission cradle - Separate transmission from engine - Carefully lower transmission and remove Transfer Parts - Remove blast plates - Remove heavy fork and pivot - Remove sensors (already snagged from the other 5mt) 6mt Prep - Trim mount on passenger side bellhousing (done) - Install short shifter plate (done) - Install TSK snout (done) - Install new seals (done) - Install sensors from 5mt (done) - Install blast plates (if possible) - Install fork, pivot, and TSK throwout bearing 6mt Shifter Prep - Install the short shifter, ensure everything is lubed (done) - Install the shifter stop for 1/2 (done) - Leave the shifter mechanism in three main parts Shifter Removal - Remove shifter boot - Remove center console - Remove shifter linkage - Remove shifter surround bracket - Remove shifter bushings from chassis 6mt Shifter Install - Fit the 6mt shifter (top 1/3) - Drill new holes as needed - Fit the top 1/3 of the shifter mechanism - Install the second third of the shifter mechanism, bolted to the top (from underneath) - Connect the cables to the shifter - Install bottom plate 6mt Install - Move the 6mt into place and lift it - Partway up, stop - Install the brass shifter bushing - Connect the shifter cables - Test the shifting mechanism to ensure it's working properly - Finish moving the transmission into place - Connect to the engine - Install the transmission cradle - Bolt to the engine - Connect the wiring - Install the driveshaft - Install the front struts - Install the front axles - Install the downpipe and mid-pipe - Fill the rear diff - Fill the transmission - Test clutch and shifting - Bleed clutch if needed - Install starter - Install TMIC - Install center console - Install shift boot and knob - Lower car and clean up Test Drive! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitexc Posted February 20, 2022 Share Posted February 20, 2022 [emoji15][emoji120][emoji3516] Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottydunno Posted February 22, 2022 Share Posted February 22, 2022 Looking forward to the blast plate part.. I cant wait to see more pictures of this being done. Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihiryu Posted February 25, 2022 Share Posted February 25, 2022 Awesome thread, it's funny because I have a complete 09+ LGT six speed swap waiting to happen. When I bought it all I couldn't find any info at the time, glad I came across this thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infosecdad Posted February 27, 2022 Author Share Posted February 27, 2022 I may have picked up a tranny jack that's more than I need (1 ton), but it's just me working on it and I'm still weakened by Long COVID, so I decided I need all the help I can get... If I can get all my doctorate work done this weekend and class prep as well, I should be able to put the car up on quickjacks Monday night and get started on everything. This also supports my backup plan to be able to have enough good tools that I can fall back to being a mechanic if everything goes to hell in a handcart... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted February 27, 2022 Share Posted February 27, 2022 Off topic, but which doctorate work? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infosecdad Posted February 27, 2022 Author Share Posted February 27, 2022 Off topic, but which doctorate work? I'm working on a Doctorate in Cybersecurity and Information Assurance, couple years to go yet. My university requested that I get a terminal degree and I can't do a traditional PhD where you stay at a university to work on it while teaching full time. So, I picked this, but it eats up a LOT of time... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infosecdad Posted March 1, 2022 Author Share Posted March 1, 2022 Got started today. Got a couple hours in, had a few major frustrations where I had two bolts that the nut just fused itself to the bolt. Not rust, just something, I've never had this issue before on the car. The bolt on the downpipe I had to dremel the nut in half. The bolt on the cross-over exhaust pipe, I tried a 1200lb impact, it laughed; so I took a big breaker bar to it hoping to shear a head off or something and it sheared the threads from the bolt to the nut in the middle of the bolt so I had to cut the bolt itself. Just frustrating stuff... Time to get started, so this is the pretty before picture. The goal, to get this OBXT 5mt out and replaced with a 6mt. Solid shift linkage, little noisy, but nice shifting. Curious to feel the cable shifting by comparison. Hello filter... Guess my plug that was here for a year to block the header heat is now gone. Grimmspeed crossover pipe that I picked up a few months ago, just waiting for me to put the car up and pull the skid plate for something else. Today was that day. Empty tunnel, 3" exhaust is out along with the driveshaft. Next is the rear diff. Hello blastplates... gonna find out if I can get you to work on the 6mt very soon. Bunch of stuff disconnected, might get it all out by Wed as I have lots going on. If I'm feeling froggy I'm going to replace the front strut top mounts as I think my whiteline mounts are super clunky right now. Checked the exhaust side of the JMP billet VF-52 after 40k miles, it's freakin rock solid, highly recommend his turbos; they are amazing! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted March 1, 2022 Share Posted March 1, 2022 Just saying, I needed about 24" of clearance to get the tranny out. I found I could fit it between/under the right LCA where its inner two mounts connect to the chassis under the motor mount area. Not really sure how high the quickjacks get your car. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infosecdad Posted March 4, 2022 Author Share Posted March 4, 2022 (edited) Much progress has been made... About to put the 6mt in, but will not have the blast plates on it. I'll provide a more detailed post later, it's not that they can't fit, but it amount of modifications for the 2010-12 6mt is a bit too much for my liking. By the time I'm done trimming and such, I'm worried that it may either not provide the benefit originally intended and/or create reliability issues. The devil is in the details. Outback 5mt is out, time to move over the verus fork and pivot, and the Group N mount. Made a little template from some cardboard, drilled holes for the bolts that pass through to bolt the lower cable box to the shifter box. Cut the old trim ring to be able to reuse the mounts for the center console. Grind and hammered the hump flat near the back that was keeping the shifter box from sitting flat. It's completely amazing to me that I can install a 2020 shift mechanism into my 2005 with minimal effort. Cable box bolted in from underneath, everything looks good so far. Keeping the same stage 2+ clutch, only has around 35-40k miles. Shifter installed, wanted to see what it looked like. Will need to remove the boot for adjustments after the tranny is installed. This is my 5sp boot, it was a zealous interiors short shifter boot, I trimmed an inch off the top and then sewed in an elastic band so it will fit over and grip the shifter. It's not perfect, but works pretty well I think. I had picked up a heavy 6-speed shift knob a few years ago in the hopes that I could use it on a 6mt some day. It's finally that day. Time to pull the 4.44 OBXT rear diff and put my 4.11 back in. Had to use the tranny jack to help, COVID has weakened me to the point I couldn't press the diff into position. 6mt is ready for install, everything else is basically done. Verus fork and pivot, TSK TO bearing kit, should be good for a long while I hope. Hopefully this afternoon after teaching classes I can get after it while there is still daylight. Also took the opportunity to replace the whiteline top hats to see if that was my clunk (pretty sure it is). If so, I'll send the old set back for warranty replacement. Fresh Subaru High Performance Gear Oil in the rear diff, will use it for the tranny as well. Have to put something in the front of the engine as it's unbalanced and tipping forward right now, I need to push it back and brace it so I can properly align the tranny for install. Edited March 4, 2022 by Infosecdad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted March 4, 2022 Share Posted March 4, 2022 Much progress has been made... About to put the 6mt in, but will not have the blast plates on it. I'll provide a more detailed post later, it's not that they can't fit, but it amount of modifications for the 2010-12 6mt is a bit too much for my liking. By the time I'm done trimming and such, I'm worried that it may either not provide the benefit originally intended and/or create reliability issues. The devil is in the details. [ATTACH]295365[/ATTACH] Outback 5mt is out, time to move over the verus fork and pivot, and the Group N mount. [ATTACH]295366[/ATTACH] Made a little template from some cardboard, drilled holes for the bolts that pass through to bolt the lower cable box to the shifter box. [ATTACH]295367[/ATTACH] Cut the old trim ring to be able to reuse the mounts for the center console. Grind and hammered the hump flat near the back that was keeping the shifter box from sitting flat. [ATTACH]295368[/ATTACH] It's completely amazing to me that I can install a 2020 shift mechanism into my 2005 with minimal effort. [ATTACH]295369[/ATTACH] Cable box bolted in from underneath, everything looks good so far. [ATTACH]295370[/ATTACH] Keeping the same stage 2+ clutch, only has around 35-40k miles. [ATTACH]295371[/ATTACH] Shifter installed, wanted to see what it looked like. Will need to remove the boot for adjustments after the tranny is installed. This is my 5sp boot, it was a zealous interiors short shifter boot, I trimmed an inch off the top and then sewed in an elastic band so it will fit over and grip the shifter. It's not perfect, but works pretty well I think. I had picked up a heavy 6-speed shift knob a few years ago in the hopes that I could use it on a 6mt some day. It's finally that day. [ATTACH]295372[/ATTACH] Time to pull the 4.44 OBXT rear diff and put my 4.11 back in. Had to use the tranny jack to help, COVID has weakened me to the point I couldn't press the diff into position. [ATTACH]295373[/ATTACH] 6mt is ready for install, everything else is basically done. Verus fork and pivot, TSK TO bearing kit, should be good for a long while I hope. Hopefully this afternoon after teaching classes I can get after it while there is still daylight. Also took the opportunity to replace the whiteline top hats to see if that was my clunk (pretty sure it is). If so, I'll send the old set back for warranty replacement. Fresh Subaru High Performance Gear Oil in the rear diff, will use it for the tranny as well. Have to put something in the front of the engine as it's unbalanced and tipping forward right now, I need to push it back and brace it so I can properly align the tranny for install.Nice. You can use a tie strap on the motor to the firewall side of the pitch stop to secure the motor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infosecdad Posted March 4, 2022 Author Share Posted March 4, 2022 Nice. You can use a tie strap on the motor to the firewall side of the pitch stop to secure the motor. Ah, good call, I didn't think about it because mine was replaced with the mount for the GS TMIC. I'll try to find where I put it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infosecdad Posted March 4, 2022 Author Share Posted March 4, 2022 Just saying, I needed about 24" of clearance to get the tranny out. I found I could fit it between/under the right LCA where its inner two mounts connect to the chassis under the motor mount area. Not really sure how high the quickjacks get your car. [ATTACH]295329[/ATTACH] I used the jack to get the tranny off and down, then slid it off the jack and out from under. It's gonna be fun reversing that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottydunno Posted March 4, 2022 Share Posted March 4, 2022 Dude! Looks good!!! I noticed when you did your 4 holes for the new shifter, the one hole that doesn't exactly line up is on your right side. Mine was on the left. Odd. I like that short shifter. I just may spring for one once I see/hear feedback on your setup. Thank you for the updates! Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted March 4, 2022 Share Posted March 4, 2022 Ah, good call, I didn't think about it because mine was replaced with the mount for the GS TMIC. I'll try to find where I put it. I seem to recall using a piece of 3/4" plywood and maybe a 1/2" piece in front of the engine to hold it in place. Good luck getting everything lined up. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeInOregon Posted March 5, 2022 Share Posted March 5, 2022 Very nice progress this would have taken me somewhere between 3 months and never Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoozeRS05 Posted March 5, 2022 Share Posted March 5, 2022 All the pics and tips are great. Wondering if I could pull this off EB's Subaru journal - 2005 LegacyGT Wagon & 2014 Forester FB25 (2008 specB - RIP) IG@legacygtliving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shralp Posted March 5, 2022 Share Posted March 5, 2022 Thanks for the detailed write upon this! For those of us that may opt to do this in the future but not necessarily doing it themselves, this will be a great resource to share with a tuner to show them that yes, this can be done without major modification and that it works. It will certainly save time on labor costs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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