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15+ WRX 6mt into 05/09 Legacy/OB


Scottydunno

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@rhino6303 same everything as a 5mt. Mounts, clutch system/parts, even the fluid is the same.

 

@Pleides shift boot is from the 15+ our 5mt boot won't fit over the lockout ring. I used the stock 5mt bezel, and the 5mt boot ring/retainer. I attached the 15+ boot to that ring/retainer then reassembled it.

 

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@rhino6303 same everything as a 5mt. Mounts, clutch system/parts, even the fluid is the same.

 

@Pleides shift boot is from the 15+ our 5mt boot won't fit over the lockout ring. I used the stock 5mt bezel, and the 5mt boot ring/retainer. I attached the 15+ boot to that ring/retainer then reassembled it.

 

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Thank you. I'd probably add the 15+ shifter boot/hardware to the "parts you'll need" list. The trans and shifter mechanism makes sense, but stuff like that is important IMO.

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Here's a stupid question I just thought about. Would we have to tune our cars for the 6 speed? I'm just wondering since I'm currently tuning my car and if I have to update my tune at some point I don't mind. I just want to have a fun daily driver. I'll probably stay at 350 hp at the most with my setup.
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Here's a stupid question I just thought about. Would we have to tune our cars for the 6 speed? I'm just wondering since I'm currently tuning my car and if I have to update my tune at some point I don't mind. I just want to have a fun daily driver. I'll probably stay at 350 hp at the most with my setup.

 

No need to tune for it. You might find you’d want a different turbo, however, after getting a feel for the new gear ratios. Smaller or larger, just depends on how you drive.

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Not sure if this question has been addressed, but is this shifter cable mechanism inferior to our stock setup? It is prone to more failures, and how does the shifting feel compared to our setup?
I think I briefly touched on it in an above post but meh... lol

 

Cable vs. mechanical, IMHO mechanical wins everytime. I prefer that bolt action feel over the slightly numb transition feel that the cables give. As far as inferior per se', I don't think it is. Cable shifting has been around since the early 80's and has definitely improved since!

 

As far as failures goes, I'm sure it's possible to break a cable. I've seen it happen on multiple vehicles under varying conditions. I've broken a shift cable myself, not fun lemme tell you! In my encounter with a cable not cooperating as I mentioned above, the shifter basically centers at the 3/4 gates. You can move the car in 3rd and get to a safe location should one fail. There are mods you can buy to change/enhance the shift feel, however, it's still gonna boil down to personal preference.

 

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Yeah. I wonder why Subaru went back to cable vs mechanical for this transmission.
Over in the 6mt master swap thread, one of the guys was saying that Toyota had a hand in the development of this 6mt.

 

Im not totally convinced mainly because of the lack of redesign on the whole trans case. You'd think there would be more changes to make this tranny more exclusive to the 15+ cars, but that's not the case.

 

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Been searching a bit since I'm doing this swap some time soon. Apparently subaru changed the clutch abd flywheel mid model of 2018. The newer clutches (and flywheel) are 240mm instead of 230mm.

 

So be sure if you get a clutch, either get all components for 2006-2015 or 2018-current.

 

https://subaru.oemdtc.com/1521/2015-2020-subaru-wrx-clutch-system-part-changes

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Been searching a bit since I'm doing this swap some time soon. Apparently subaru changed the clutch abd flywheel mid model of 2018. The newer clutches (and flywheel) are 240mm instead of 230mm.

 

So be sure if you get a clutch, either get all components for 2006-2015 or 2018-current.

 

https://subaru.oemdtc.com/1521/2015-2020-subaru-wrx-clutch-system-part-changes

Just read the site. It doesn't mention a change in spline diameter or tooth count, nor if there is a change in the bolt pattern on the flywheel. I wonder if the parts are interchangeable..

 

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Just read the site. It doesn't mention a change in spline diameter or tooth count, nor if there is a change in the bolt pattern on the flywheel. I wonder if the parts are interchangeable..

 

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There is no difference in transmission, just that the flywheel is machined to have a larger surface as well as the clutch. So we should be able to use the updated versions for a "better" clutch. In theory this would mean a better clamping surface and better heat dissipation due to a larger surface area (ike a larger brake rotor). I haven't checked any aftermarket suppliers to see if that change made it that far. I already have a new clutch I hadn't installed from zf design so I plan on just using that anyways.
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A second part update I found is the difference in shifter assemblies from 2015-2017 and 2018-current. Apparently the 2015-2017 studs on the assembly tend to spin when trying to remove or install. The 2018 redesign changed the stud shape so it doesn't spin. I figure that a bolt can just replace the stud if that's an issue.

 

So it looks like we can confirm 2015-current shifter assemblies are compatible with the swap.

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I’m not 100% certain, but I think the FA WRX had several clutch revisions, almost one for every model year. I’ve driven almost every year of 15-21 WRX and the clutches all start to feel the same from 2019-on, but the earlier years I swear every car had very different-feeling clutches. Pretty much all of these are stock cars.

 

If anybody knows the power-handling capabilities of the clutch of the FA20 then do tell. I prefer the feel of the later FA WRX clutches than my 5MT clutch by a country mile.

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If the case really is similar to the 5mt and the bolts are in the same place, then the 5mt blast plates may fit.
if someone wants to mess around...this is the best pic i have when i installed it. would be sweet if the bolts do line up.
After having the transmission in my possession I don't think the 5MT blast plates will fit due to the shift cable brackets. The bolt holes will most likely match but the shift cable brackets look like they will interfere with the entire bracing portion of the plates.

 

Obviously without having the plates in my possession makes it an unknown still.

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After having the transmission in my possession I don't think the 5MT blast plates will fit due to the shift cable brackets. The bolt holes will most likely match but the shift cable brackets look like they will interfere with the entire bracing portion of the plates.

 

Obviously without having the plates in my possession makes it an unknown still.

 

I think it's going to depend on which version of the plates and which tranny.

 

I have version 2 plates:

Moore-Blast-Plates-V2-WRX-STI.jpg

 

I might have to trim a bit to fit them, or they may not fit at all. I'll find out next week when I work on it and let you all know.

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I think it's going to depend on which version of the plates and which tranny.

 

 

 

I have version 2 plates:

 

Moore-Blast-Plates-V2-WRX-STI.jpg

 

 

 

I might have to trim a bit to fit them, or they may not fit at all. I'll find out next week when I work on it and let you all know.

Good point. I think the moore version 2 has the best chance. I really don't think the steel tubed versions will fit.
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Today was the day my cable popped off again and my zip tie MacGyver safety worked! Almost got cut off and did a very abrupt stop while shifting from 4th to 2nd. Didn't make it into 2nd... but the car stopped and so did they. Put it in first and felt the shifter push back to the 3/4 gates and realized the cable popped off.

 

Because of the zip tieing I did, I had 1st, 3rd and 4th. I was able to complete my short trip and get it back to work. My boss let me out early to let me work on the car inside the shop. Attached are 4 pictures. The first 2 are the cable end that is worn out and my MacGyver zip tie safety. I seriously thought that end was a ball socket and was worn out... apparently I was dead wrong. I'm sure exhaustion and rushing a repair before a major snow storm had something to do with it.

 

The last 2 are of the downpipe bracket and what was done to make it work for now. I'm not a fan of it, but I will make a better bracket when I have time. 03985a49ec243c4704304e10570ed27e.jpgac49f9674aa99735d586dfd46679a2b0.jpg8ba3bf7c4bba2344915895b5ba098fca.jpg6b6518eaf4a8ad4f634727668f0df0c2.jpg

 

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Interesting, how are you planning to fix it, new cable?

Any idea how many miles on that cable?

 

Glad you were able to setup a safety net so you could still drive.

 

Also, looking really closely at the pictures, I think the cable end might need to be rotated 180 degrees.

The flat side should be to the outside and the main inner spring should be facing up to the car, not down to the ground.

The green cover should be pointing down.

Since the end is not centered, and is offset, having it inverted puts the end of the cable on the outside of the pin (possibly with tension) and makes it easier to pop off.

If it was rotated, then it should fit snuggly against the back of the pin.

At least that's what it looks like to me after looking at mine and 10 install videos on youtube :-D

Edited by Infosecdad
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Interesting, how are you planning to fix it, new cable?

Any idea how many miles on that cable?

 

Glad you were able to setup a safety net so you could still drive.

 

Also, looking really closely at the pictures, I think the cable end might need to be rotated 180 degrees.

The flat side should be to the outside and the main inner spring should be facing up to the car, not down to the ground.

The green cover should be pointing down.

Since the end is not centered, and is offset, having it inverted puts the end of the cable on the outside of the pin (possibly with tension) and makes it easier to pop off.

If it was rotated, then it should fit snuggly against the back of the pin.

At least that's what it looks like to me after looking at mine and 10 install videos on youtube :-D

 

I installed a new cable. The old cable had 79k, from a 16 WRX. With the spring hanging down like that, it rests against the shifter lever. If it pull it away, it resets immediately back against the lever.

 

Looking at the end, the flat side is against the lever. The cut out looking side on the outside. With the adjuster facing down it'd be easier to adjust the cable vs. completely removing and installing after adjusting. Less movement, less wear.

 

I did that safety to get me to warmer weather so that I could replace it then.. as we see, it's still winter and crap happened.. [emoji2357]

 

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I was looking to go 6 speed some time in the next couple of years. This is good to know. So essentially this is more a side step versus a step forward in terms of performance? Our 5 speeds can take the same power as these cable 6 speeds but not as much as the specb/sti 6 speeds? And its a cable, not sure I like that part but I haven't felt one to judge it.

 

Awesome post!

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I admit that this cable set up is giving me mixed feelings. I did some quick searches over on nasioc and there are in fact a few threads with people who have had issues with these cables. It was a quick search though..

In terms of feel, I just watched a one take video last night where they were reviewing the latest WRX. They did mention shifting gears did not feel as precise, and were assuming it was due to the cable shifting set up.

Edited by xt2005bonbon
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I admit that this cable set up is giving me mixed feelings. I did some quick searches over on nasioc and there are in fact a few threads with people who have had issues with these cables. It was a quick search though..

In terms of feel, I just watched a one take video last night where there were reviewing the latest WRX. They did mention shifting gears did not feel as precise, and were assuming it was due to the cable shifting set up.

 

From having driven several newer WRX models, it definitely feels precise but also very plasticky. It’s a side-grade from our transmissions for sure.

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Did anyone confirm if the blast plates work on it?

 

Are there any modifications or parts we can change to improve cable shifting? Don't know much about that topic.

 

You get a lot of feedback from the mechanical/direct vs the cable from my experience. Like your hand can tell a lot of things from the feeling of the shifter, cable kind of takes that away.

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