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unplugging maf fixes my issues, which means???


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I hate to sound condescending, but have you replaced the MAF sensor?

 

The car being run in open-loop with the MAF disconnected also limits boost (and I believe retards timing a bit). You may have an issue with fuel or a vacuum leak that becomes more prominent when hitting full boost.

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Also the current tune is mild at best, it was made for me to break in the motor, so the tune isn't for maximum power/boost at all. I'm also running BC stage 3 cams, which is making this rebuild a bit tricky because its not a common mod.
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Fueling? I have not run without the maf but assuming it will still add correction it may be pulling or adding the maximum correction which could pull the fueling into a more ideal range maybe? I'm not exactly sure what the ecu does when no maf is connected. Edited by dwmccauley01
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How old is your primary O2? The primary A/F sensor and the MAF are what the Ecu use for closed loop operating. It getting better when disconnected, means the MAF or Primary O2 are the issue. Since you already replaced and rewired the plug, chances are the O2 is bad. Good luck and Merry Christmas!
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I changed both the front and rear O2 sensors, both are new less than a 100 miles on them.

 

I rewired it one wire at a time, so I am certain they are all correct order. Pins are good shape as well.

Edited by Tehnation
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Guess I gotta go to stealership monday and buy a new oem maf.... any way to test maf with a multimeter? And the O2 sensors? If not sensors than a vacuum leak? But unplugging makes it run better not worse, so not a vacuum leak?? I duno

 

MERRY CHRISTMAS, HAPPY HOLIDAYS!!!

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The a/f sensor are actually 1 or 2 of the O2 sensors?

 

The A/F ratio from the ecu is pretty much in line with my seperate A/F ratio gauge from my wideband, the pillar gauge reads about .3 more consistently but the ecu and wideband move the same.

 

What other sensors would bork my mojo when giving it some boost? Map?

 

From what I have read, if the unplugged maf makes car run better its most likely not mechanical or ignition, more likely the feedback control system.... which is I think the sensor stuff. Anyone know more about this feedback system?

 

I guess something is giving some bad data.... another damn sensor issue! My god I can't win with these sensors...:spin::mad: This cel malfunction system is absolutely worthless lol.... Now I know why the electrical system on my benz is so complicated.

Edited by Tehnation
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I mean does it only ignore the maf if the maf is unplugged, or are other sensors ignored as well. Google doesn't answer that! Unplugging the maf just lets u know that something is wrong with air, boost or vacuum leak I am assuming. Edited by Tehnation
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When I was trying to troubleshoot my MAP by leaving it unplugged, the ECU substitutes default values for load. It very well might do the same with the MAF (I'd have to double check the service manual for the exact failure mode/failsafe). I was running into something very similar when I was chasing what turned out to be a huge vacuum leak - it'd run like crap with the MAP plugged in, but run great unplugged.

 

What happens if you leave the MAF plugged in, but unplug the MAP? Are you getting good boost/vac readings from the ECU itself? I don't know if any of that helps at all...

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Ive been a little busy, but this is all new to me, especially this engine tuning stuff, so its hard to figure out if the issue is the tune or mechanical.

 

I went back to the first tune I had where it was leaning out until I got a cel. It doesn't have any hesitation at all and drives normally. The new tune I got to try and correct that lean issue seems to be cutting out as soon as the AFR hits 11. something, like it won't go lower than 11.x and then the car just bucks and hesitates. It works fine however when I unplug the maf. One tune runs lean and the other can't hit an afr lower than 11.

 

I haven't done a new log with new intake manifold gaskets for either tune, so I will see whats going on there. I also installed a new oem maf, and ordered a new Grimmspeed air filter, the one I have seems dried up and deteriorated.

 

Haven't tried messing with the MAP.

 

Where was your vacuum leak?

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So, actually on either tune afr wont go lower than 11.14, but the 1st tune it doesn't turn to crap while on the newer tune all hell breaks loose. 1st tune does have some very slight hesitation at certain rpm, hardly noticeable, i'm thinking its just lagging or turbo needs to be adjusted.

 

Anyone know what adjusting the wastegate actuator arm does?

 

Heres a new log of the original tune with new maf, and new intake manifold gaskets.

 

datalog19.csv

 

Does it still look like a vacuum leak?

 

Going to try the new tune and see if I get the same issue.

Edited by Tehnation
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So, actually on either tune afr wont go lower than 11.14, but the 1st tune it doesn't turn to crap while on the newer tune all hell breaks loose. 1st tune does have some very slight hesitation at certain rpm, hardly noticeable, i'm thinking its just lagging or turbo needs to be adjusted.

 

Anyone know what adjusting the wastegate actuator arm does?

 

Heres a new log of the original tune with new maf, and new intake manifold gaskets.

 

[ATTACH]294711[/ATTACH]

 

Does it still look like a vacuum leak?

 

Going to try the new tune and see if I get the same issue.

The stock afr doesn't read lower than 11.14 and doesn't have the precision for tuning open loop fueling for turbo vehicles (which is where a wideband sensor is used). Once you're in open loop, the stock sensor goes rich to 11.14 very quickly and is more like an on/off than usable values.
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