Max Capacity Posted November 14, 2021 Share Posted November 14, 2021 For NGK plugs, I use 2309 or 5245. You can also call NGK, ask for Test Support. Tell them what you have for cams and such, they will recommend the correct plug. I did that years ago with the Honda 1.6L pushing 35psi of boost. Ask google how to test coil packs, on the bench. I've seen some info on the web about it. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted November 15, 2021 Author Share Posted November 15, 2021 So I started it cold without the maf connected and same thing. Started and idled fine, died a couple times. But it looks like its temperature related, its colder out so it ran for about 10 minutes approximately. What can get hot and stop working and not throw a cel??? I couldn't imagine all my spark plugs and coil packs just stop working at the same time all the time. Cam/Crank position would throw a code.... but if it were just giving wrong data what would happen? I'm really stumped at this point. Even if there was a vacuum leak it wouldn't have these kinds of symptoms. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infosecdad Posted November 15, 2021 Share Posted November 15, 2021 Cam/crank can partially fail without a code. I could mail you a cam and crank sensor from my spare '05 engine if you send them back when done testing with them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted November 15, 2021 Author Share Posted November 15, 2021 I'll take you up on that! Let me know how much to ship them. I would have replaced them but they are too expensive to just buy on a whim, i'm getting sick of buying parts that aren't fixing the problem at this point! If they partially fail, car definitely wouldn't start I imagine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted November 15, 2021 Share Posted November 15, 2021 yeah, I would actually check these cam/crank position sensors next. I have rarely heard them failing, but I guess they can. Maybe you were too harsh to them when you removed them . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted November 15, 2021 Author Share Posted November 15, 2021 I think my crank sensor is actually some autozone garbage. So who knows! Anything is possible at this point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted November 15, 2021 Author Share Posted November 15, 2021 Just ordered crank, cam and coolant sensors from rockauto. Lets see what happens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ratmilk Posted November 16, 2021 Share Posted November 16, 2021 Just ordered crank, cam and coolant sensors from rockauto. Lets see what happens. Sounds like a good idea, are you going to replace them in a specific order or all at once? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted November 16, 2021 Share Posted November 16, 2021 I suggest one at a time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted November 17, 2021 Author Share Posted November 17, 2021 (edited) The myth, the man, the legend, M Sprank said to look electrical! So I am on the right track, gotta check cam/crank/knock/wheel speed sensors etc. No CEL? Something (most likely electrical) is happening when the engine heats up. I have seen things like a crank angle sensor that fails (due to wire harness or sensor itself) once the engine heats up. But it is fine until the engine is hot. I would think about sensors close to the block. Crank angle, can angle, knock, etc. Check the harness very closely and try wiggling connectors While the engine is running (if possible). Could even be a transmission sensor, or a wheel speed sensor (see hub bearing assembly) if its an auto. Hope this helps. Thanks, Mike Edited November 17, 2021 by Tehnation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted November 17, 2021 Author Share Posted November 17, 2021 Sounds like a good idea, are you going to replace them in a specific order or all at once? Was going to do all at once, but for the sake of finding the exact issue, will do one at a time, starting with the crank , the cam sensors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted November 17, 2021 Author Share Posted November 17, 2021 So I changed the crank sensor and the car ran for more than 10 minutes! It ran for like 15 or so and I had to cut it off because my coolant reservoir exploded with boiling hot coolant........ I ordered this relay and its taking forever, so no fan is coming on. Should it get that hot in 15-20 minutes? Or is my thermostat shot? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted November 17, 2021 Author Share Posted November 17, 2021 But it looks like I found the issue! A single sensor sent me down the rabbit hole....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted November 17, 2021 Share Posted November 17, 2021 (edited) Freakin sensor! Run your AP to monitor coolant temp. Last time I burped it, it did reach 203F at one point which is I think when the fans kick in. Can't remember the exact temp. But yeah, it did reach that, although I was reving the engine too. Edited November 17, 2021 by xt2005bonbon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted November 17, 2021 Author Share Posted November 17, 2021 Yea I'm at 208 when I just RESTARTED the car:lol: WOOOOOOOT WOOOOOOOOT , winner winner chicken dinner! Car didn't get past 190 something. Now I gotta figure why its getting so hot....gonna change the thermostat just in case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infosecdad Posted November 17, 2021 Share Posted November 17, 2021 Is it an OEM thermostat? I wouldn't touch an aftermarket one, they are notorious for not working correctly. Fans should kick on in the low 200s or around 185 if the AC is on if I remember right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted November 17, 2021 Share Posted November 17, 2021 Yeah, keep the thermostat OEM, but be aware of its proper orientation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infosecdad Posted November 17, 2021 Share Posted November 17, 2021 (edited) "Thermostat must be installed with the jiggle pin facing upward". Basically at 12 o'clock Edited November 17, 2021 by Infosecdad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted November 17, 2021 Author Share Posted November 17, 2021 Will swing by the stealership and grab a thermostat. Going to try this relay to see if it will get my fan to work otherwise I gotta wait or swap back to old ecu for the time being. Four Seasons Relay 36126 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whitexc Posted November 17, 2021 Share Posted November 17, 2021 I hear progress.....nice job! Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted November 17, 2021 Author Share Posted November 17, 2021 Thanks all! Looks like this problem is solved! Now get back to work all of you shows over! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted November 17, 2021 Share Posted November 17, 2021 OP, I like your username title Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted November 17, 2021 Author Share Posted November 17, 2021 OP, I like your username title Normally I burn stuff to sacrifice to the Subaru gods, I haven't lately so now I am paying for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infosecdad Posted November 17, 2021 Share Posted November 17, 2021 Thanks all! Looks like this problem is solved! Now get back to work all of you shows over! What was the last few steps? Glad to hear that you are #winning Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 17, 2021 Share Posted November 17, 2021 So I changed the crank sensor and the car ran for more than 10 minutes! It ran for like 15 or so and I had to cut it off because my coolant reservoir exploded with boiling hot coolant........ I ordered this relay and its taking forever, so no fan is coming on. Should it get that hot in 15-20 minutes? Or is my thermostat shot? With the colder air outside now...it may take longer for the fans to come on. Glad the crank sensor solved the issue. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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