5MT stalling as car comes to a stop

[TorqueLegend]

Hey all- my 06 5MT GT (bone stock) is having an issue in which it is randomly stalling as I come to a stop, usually in second gear around 20mph or slower. I took it in and was told the tensioner was bad and timing belt shredded, those were changed along with the water pump. Well sure enough I take it to get new tires today and it stalls out as I stop at a sign sign. So, I've taken it back in. One interesting thing is it stalls out more often when my AC is on, however the problem happens when AC is off too.

 

Another related symptom that started around the same time is a sound that seems like it's coming from the turbo, not sure if it's metal on metal or a vacuum leak but it's def coming from the turbo, not super loud but noticeable and only so when hitting boost.

 

My mechanic is a good dude I trust him, said he previously did compression test and smoke test and both yielded good engine/ no leaks. Now I've brought it back with a new PCV and a replacement stock turbo and am going to have him try replace those. I also asked him to check the injectors, they might be old. The coil packs/plugs were changed when I bought the car prob 10k miles ago and I did it myself so I know they were done correctly and should still be good, I'm sure he would have seen if something was out of wack there when he did the compression test. Otherwise it sounds like he's at a bit of a loss.

 

There is also infrequent smoke that rolls up through my hood vent, and a burning smell that occasionally rears it's head. I usually chock this up to me being a Moron and the car having a testy clutch (also changed less than 5k miles ago) but possibly another sign the Turbo go bye bye?

 

Any one have any ideas? What could cause my tensioner to fail and shred my timing belt? Could my turbo be blown and causing all these issues? All roads point to vacuum leak but doesn't seem like there is one per smoke test. Any help is appreciated thank you!!

[laramieskibum]

Clean the Maf sensor

 

Reset the ecu, Do an idle relearn immediately after that

 

If you don’t have a access port or tantrix cable hook it up to a equivalent machine or iPhone app and see what idle AFR is. Could be an intake manifold gasket. Or throttle body needs cleaned.

 

Only you and he can tell us the source of the smoke. Could be anything. Cv joint grease, exhaust leak….sounds like you have an exhaust and or boost leak. Probably manifold to up pipe. Boost leak could be intercooler hose to throttle body or hose under intercooler blown off or intercooler fins bent on the sides allow boost leak. If you got smoke rolling you should be able to get under it and find out why, oil leak somewhere…or grease. On exhaust. Heads on these leak. Have you looked for an oil leak? If your smoking the clutch so bad your getting smoke that is impressive, or your rear main oil seal is leaking onto the clutch.

 

How much oil are you using? What color is your exhaust if any?

 

Check turbo shaft for play before replacing

 

Turbo wouldn’t take a timing belt. How many miles on the tensioner? Was it ever replaced with the timing belt previously? Your add for the car showed something like 30,000 miles past due and 5 years over due for a belt / tensioner / water pump. This is an interference engine. If your timing belt went you probably bent a valve, probably exhaust, yet you say it passed compression test?! Very lucky if true. Your belt must not have failed completely. Take the timing belt cover off and check to see if it is in time.

Edited October 27, 2021 by laramieskibum

[TorqueLegend]

Ya I got lucky. Aside from the stalling and weird sound the engine still runs strong. Probably a result of me babying it 80% of the time I drive it.

 

I've cleaned the MAF before and I looked at it with the mechanic the first time I brought it in. Wouldn't hurt to reset ECU and bring it up I suppose. - I'll have to check the records to confirm tensioner was changed but timing belt was done by previous owner so figure that was too. CV grease actually makes sense for the source of smoke. I'll run these things by and I'll have to do a little more digging- I appreciate the feedback.

[laramieskibum]

Welcome.

 

How is your oil usage? Are you loosing oil between oil changes.

[TorqueLegend]

Not a significant amount of oil lose. When I change the oil I more or less fill up the container (5qts) and I usually change it every 5k or less. I prob loose well under .5 qt per 5k. The oil

Is pretty black when I drain it out tho and my exhaust pipes are a little blackened at the tips as well.

[TorqueLegend]

For what it's worth my first thought when I started having issues was the PCV. I'm hoping that's it or the injectors. Should have more info by Friday- at a standstill as I wait on delivery of feedline and gaskets.

[bdcvg]

Get a Cobb or a OBD reader and btssm app and a flexible check book.

[blackobxt]

Cheese and rice y’all jump to some crazy conclusions. It’d be nice if you could pull a learning view to see your afr learning is. It sounds like you have a good vac/ boost leak and this is assuming your “metal on metal” noise is actually a boost leak.

[Pleides]

I’d second the boost leak idea and also would recommend replacing the PCV valve. You’ll want a shop that can pressurize the system to around 13 PSI or so to make sure there are no leaks. Some shops can only test you ~5 PSI or so with their specialty testers so ask around your area for speed shops that can pressurize the system properly.

[TorqueLegend]

In closing mechanic said my throttle body is the culprit. Cost me a cool $2Gs for the throttle body, labor and several other maintenance items.. Can't wait to find out what the next 2K fix will be.

[blackobxt]

$2k??? Wtf? Timing belt and water pump included there?

[Febreze Mee]

Yeah, that's a lot of dollars. Which parts and what labor brings it up to $2K?

[Pleides]

If the intake manifold came off and lots was replaced then perhaps that could get to $2k? What all was done? Is the car working fine? E-throttles almost never fail.

[Max Capacity]

So, is your car in fact a 2006 GT wagon 5MT ? If so, it is one of a handful if that in this country.

 

The whole intake system can be lifted as a unit by removing the 8 bolts at the TGV's too Heads. Yes, you will have to drain the coolant and disconnect the fuel lines.

 

But I don't think you need to do all that to replace the TB.

Edited November 11, 2021 by Max Capacity

[darthqwo]

but the whole car is worth $500 as a trade in

 

for a vacuum leak

 

omg lol

[TorqueLegend]

Well the good news is that after replacing the throttle body, PVC, swapping in a new turbo (OEM I had laying around with roughly 10K miles), timing belt, tensioner, water pump and a bunch of hoses and gaskets, she is running very, very smoothly. I also installed a Nameless Muffler delete and it sounds amazing. Ordered the nameless in June and it finally arrived in November.

 

I've been fortunate enough to have the opportunity to purchase a second commuter car, and when that deal is done in a few weeks, I will throw the wagon on blocks and begin to replace the suspension (all control arms and bushing, will add Koni yellows with Epic Springs). its going to be a real bitch considering the condition of the bolts down there, but once it's replaced I'll be able to really start having fun. I'll also throw on some bigger breaks with the powder coated calipers and likely replace everything around the hub area. Finally, I'll do the double din with a review camera etc.

 

I will probably start a build thread at that time, to this point I've replaced the clutch and flywheel, driver window actuator and buttons, and the above mentioned and she is running like a dream. I've already purchased the springs, and most of the bushings, so only need the Konis and a quick tune up on my air wrench and I'll be ready to rock.