darthqwo

i somehow got the idea i finna check starter connector (solenoid) and resolved this b4 things got hairy because it didn't start when expected it threw two sets of three shaft codes and four misfires and four trans codes for fourteen codes omg wow thanks so much mostly spot on infosec cheers m8

no, but i have used freessm for this i believe it is like fuel learning values

2016-2017 legacy 2.5l fb25 port injection nonturbo pzev reseated engine harness connectors and trans connectors (inhibitor switch t1 and control valve t2) maybe i should start testing individual pins, but i mostly want to assume the engine harness connectors are good since these are the same as before

i replaced cvt trans in my driveway sourced from lkq; it was all working before except ability to shift out of first, but now after transwap it is throwing codes p0335, p0340, p0345 for crankshaft and camshaft position sensors and four transmission codes for the various solenoids. it is not starting, not even clicking. i believe i checked grounds, such as ge-2, which grounds the crankshaft and camshaft sensors, as well as clean the battery terminals. the transmission is grounded through connector pins plus the case ground to chassis i am unsure what could be the problem but somehow shy from blaming the replacement transmission given my problem includes engine codes. open to suggestinos omg thanks

she hasnt posted back about how it blew in the first place but ez30 are also prone to head gasket failure albeit generally not in timeframe of first owner. overheating can be symptom of imminent fail, but it is def driveable for a block or two; if radiator is pressurised enough from exhast gauses then it cracks, and hereby atf line can be damaged. this can be remedied with an aluminum radiator, which will hold through that pressure, and a separate cooler for the atf line; however, the drawback is that you may be filling coolant by the block as coolant blows through the exhaust, but it is manageable if you are driving limited distances, and these parts carry over if you service or replace the motor in this contingency HG repair costs can essentially total the vehicle. the alternative is to replace motor outright; if you source it from lkq the pricing on anything over 100k makes it very affordable, but in comparison 100k almost seems brand new. i def want to help her out the most i can so just wanted to mention

possibly throttle body issues--possibly carbon build up on plate--or drive by wire or compression what software is that and how are you connected

jess helpin out a brokie lol

but the whole car is worth $500 as a trade in for a vacuum leak omg lol

always useful to upgrade to parts half decade newer; swap should mostly work, but you might need to retain the lgt engine harness and lgt ecu--need to see fsm wiring section to see if not else, as t guaranteed remainder of bulkhead is completely different betweens legs and imps other things useful to possibly retain is maf sens and o2 sens--need to see romraider def to see if scalings are same else the wheel speed sensors are same on legs and imps and attaches to bulkhead on fraem rails by firewall; if ur talking bout engine speed sensor that i wouldn't be sure of since internal to mt

wouldnt lose power unless ur majorly overheating from coolant loss; vbvut u still have coolant, so suggests the atf line got mixed with cool in trans doesnt have hydraulic pressure reservoir usually overflows into from the rad top and is not pressurised--not even the radiator-- so unusual to blow open; got a pic? if ur near sams club buy a 12qt of sam's atf for $22 and flush coolant through until no more coolant comes out lol; then buy idemitsu atf-hp and flush through by the amount of sams that went in; hope that helps. well maintained lol

does it become rwd? i noticed fwd cars don't have rear axles; and im not a mechanic but i figure rwd cars dont have front ones, so... there is an actual application in that possibly i want to drive up ramps one final time before dropping trans but not have the front axles to preclude it; i mean wheels on ramps give excellent working space on the driveway omg thanks.

in the past i acquired a 2008 legacie 3.0 with 208k miles with neglected maintenance but it was still solid plus some low end toruqe. the outback sedan is just the sedan with front subframe spacers; if you put in lowering springs then this amouts to the same config i did, which gives decreased camber on front than is psosible on legacies and withotu the miniature tires for some reason a lot of 5eats develop a whine somehwer around 120k maybe due to neglected atf drain but this is the only conspicuous ntoe from the exterior. if it has the whine and if this is an issue, then it might be the deal breaker, plius the prefacelift look did not age well methinks

vehicle screeched on first ever start up after a fb25 motor install but since has come down to a chirp; to date i had other things to keep me occupied, but at last with the exhaust installed it comes to my attention that this sound is as loud as my invidia exhaust. apart from the fb25 being unique among the circumstances i wonder if this sound is common after motor replacement. fyi i have not driven it anywhere and have only started up and idled a handful or two with thought that it could subside with time http://https://youtu.be/49upjuXBkl4 omg thanks

vehicle screeched on first ever start up after a fb25 motor install but since has come down to a chirp; to date i had other things to keep me occupied, but at last with the exhaust installed it comes to my attention that this sound is as loud as my invidia exhaust. apart from the fb25 being unique among the circumstances i wonder if this sound is common after motor replacement. fyi i have not driven it anywhere and have only started up and idled a handful or two with thought that it could subside with time http://https://youtu.be/49upjuXBkl4 omg thanks

omg thats it woot #i have no idea why it is in photos; a mod moved it here, or i posted it here by mistake whoops

i know i can google this or find the requisite info, but i once saw it in the fsm which bulbs are h11, h7, 9005, etc, and cannot again find it. if someone competent can locate the section and subsection with this info, omg thanks the project i am undertaking here is to try putting in a a switchback bulb in the low and/or high beam so that the headlight itself will blink with the turn signal. has anyone done something like this? omg thanx

would agree with except for one thing which an earlier forum member posted rather critically. the open source tune would have to tune in the fact your borrowed ej is single cam, so that is a substantial tune most people wouldn't be tasked with ever having done. toward this end you could swap in your fb25 harness and splice ej25 connectors into the harness (for such items as coils, sensors, etc.), and most connectors don't need this since they are identical, but this would solve the missing bulkhead connector and probably your starting problem, and it then remains to see if it runs well. alternatively this objection wouldn't apply with the ej255 with dual cams that you could run without a turbo, or just tune in a manually boosted turbo, and then you would just trick your ecu to believe your motour is an fb25 nonturbo with dual cams. i see why there might be interest in going this route, but a sohc downgrade does not make sense unless it was unresearched and/or misinformed--fyi there is a parallel thread on the exact same topic of fb25 swaps in the 4g subfora together with this one amassing members' wisda on the matter) otherwise, your last route to save the title is get 2015+ fb25 that will resolve the oil consumption issue (still need harness splicing at the coils and maybe temperature sensors for oil, water, etc.) otherwise to continue with your setup you need a complete bulkhead harness swap and ecu + biu at the minimum from the same or compatible vehicle engine came from in order to run as sohc, but i have to warn that the other harnesses (instrument, rear wiring, etc.) may need to be rewired, as they are not compatible between legacies and impreza/foresters. it is not just that but the fuel harnenss for the ej25s will require dropping the fuel tank to get to the holes in the back that have connectors. actually for this reason you can go forwards from ej253 to fb25 easily but not backwards since the latter only has connectors that are accessible form the rear seat, and i know this because i actually did the complete motour and bulkhead swap into my 4G L; it is a huge drain on time and requires a tow to and fro for a dealer key registration. I am still working on the vehicle and it is not yet road worthy while i await an ecuflash definition from td-d or whomever for my eighteen codes, but i am happy to say my 4eat swap was plug and play

alternatively you can apply 12v directly to the two-pin connector that is inside the door that connetcs directly to the motor, and in this case there should be polarity

this is a how to for those who need to do this. this thread originated as a plea for help but now instead offers it; note some of this will seem to be asking for help but by the end is actually giving it. i know a picture is a thousand words, with the door panel taken off, there is a black connector and a white connector for the door lock and window, resp.; the white has 5 wires. for reference, the black wire on the black connector is ground, and all pins except two on the white connector can be traced to a separate pin on the main 25-pin front door connector. I have tried to put a 12v on each of the pins, but they do not operate the window Using only a 12v battery as a power source, does anyone know how to roll the window up please :lol: short pins 2 and 5; short pins 3 and 4; then apply 12v voltage on the pair of connections, and i find there is no polarity. omg thanks

I started trouble shooting with the manual in the section Diagnostics for Engine Starting Failure on page EN(H4SO)(diag)-70, and it fails at step 7 to check input voltage of starter relay at bulkhead connector B225 pin 15; there is no voltage when turning the key (for reference there is 12v on pin 13), and the solution it gives is to repair open circuit or ground short of harness between starter relay and ignition switch (for reference the prior step checks the ignition switch is good). I am wondering where to repair this. Given my prior issue with a wire, corroded wires are the likely culprit, but i wonder if it would be w wire on a different harness instead, for instance the manual lists the different harness: F front, B bulkhead, E engine, T trans, D door, I instrument, R rear, AB airbag, etc. So, i wonder if the ground short is not necessarily on the bulkhead harness but instead on maybe the front harness. Anyway i shorted the solenoid on the starter with the hot and started it up manually and was able to pull a code p0600; the below is my search for this. I was hesitant to do this for fear there may be other issues that could cause damage, but it started up and came up to temperature with mosty a smooth idle but eventually stalled from what sounded like fuel shortage. So, after starting up and coming up to temperature, it does not seem to want to start up again for a period even after disconnecting the battery; maybe this is a fail safe feature. The ABS and ESC lights are also lit, so these add to the issues mentioned but suggest there is a more common ground issue that encompasses all these issues if it is a ground issue. This seems to be mostly an unresolved problem over the years, as I found a number of cases on this forum: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/cel-p0600-70665.html? https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2005-legacy-gt-p0600-and-car-stalling-help-261897.html https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/cel-and-cruise-flashing-p0600-and-p0700-152006.html https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/code-po600-189872.html appreciate any insight omg thanx

the wire is more or less similar in condition, but if that were the issue i don't think it would start spinning like a champ once 12v is applied to the solenoid connector; again this is unbolted from the bell housing. is it advisable to try to start the engine with the key in the on positionby manually applying 12v to the solenoid connector? is there a chance that this might be bad in case there are other faults? (it's possile the relays i swapped were also bad; possibly everythign is bad)

battery posts are good; in fact i tested the starter (unbolted) on the solenoid connector with the positive bolted in place in other suggestions from threads, corroded grounding straps between frame and bottoms of heads on each side could be a possibility; one of them is brand new since before winter, and i can double check this but i doubt this is the issue other: with key at the 'on' position, most things seem to work: fuel pump, lights interior/exterior, chimes, dash; the tactrix cable is even able to read the rom from the ecu the security light stops blinking once the key is inserted; this means there is not a fault with the immobiliser system right? thanks: omg thanx

This car has had some strange issues since the past year, where previously i diagnosed a no-start issue with clicking as corroded positive terminal on the starter, but the issue now is that it doesn't even click. Recent context: It has sat most of winter without being started with a dying battery connected; it was so dead it came back from the test with 0 cranking amps and a free replacement. With this said i suspect the decreasing and low resting voltage might have caused issues while it sat. Troubleshooting: I tested the starter and the bolted positive connection and ground connections on it; these are good. There is no voltage coming from the solenoid connector, however. I . Still nothing. More symptoms: I moved the shifter into netural, and it now does not want to move back up to R or P, though i can move down to D and the + and - sport shift positions. i appreciate any insights, suggestions; omg thanks

I can read from 2008 legacy, but the output is some ascii or utf format; i think it is the same issue as I can also read from a 2013 forester ecu, but i cannot write successfully to it. The chips on both are labeled S93C86 with IC402 label to the side. When i write my 2008 legacy binary to it, then read it again, it is the same as before. (for reference i have not written to the legacy and have no reason to) If we can change some of these values, it is worth a try, but im not the one to ask:

i got it set up on a virtual machine with the adafruit board passed-thru with both 32-bit windows and ubuntu--which the deprecated guide uses--but it turns out it was unnecessary. more importantly, it works with 64-bit windows, and it is important to use the x86 python 2.7 installer instead of x86-64 python 2.7 installer, as the deprecated adafruit guide states very briefly; this demonstrates that the deprecated guide is more of a hack of the portable python 2.7 32-bit install files than an application in python (at least for windows), but whatever. more importantly, i found that my original debian linux set-up actually worked from the beginning since the output is the same as a working configuration. but we are still missing a step that was not really mentioned, which would have saved a whole week of frustration for me if i had known to uncoat the pcb; namely, it is necessary to unocat the chip contacts from the protective transparent coating that is on the pcb since this can prevent a proper read. but thanks so much infosec for the thread in the first place