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P0457 small evap leak


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305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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So, it looks like it's part of the canister ?

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/canister-purge-valve-locationi-191832.html

 

Ok, after some searching, well going page by page, Pg 5338 in the 2005 service manual has the system shown, Item 15 is the canister, Item 33 is the vent valve. It does appear to be part of the canister.

 

 

There appear to be "2 Types" go to the next pages.

 

If you need the service manual, http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/

 

 

On page 5349 it shows the vent valve/drain filter items 8 & 9 are located in the canister item 6.

 

Page 5351 shows the canister.

 

Pages 5356 & 5357 explain how the system works.

 

Page 5357 say's the vent valve is on top of the tank ? item 3. Is that the item, 08SpecB_DE is talking about ?

 

I assume this system is the same on GT's as well as shown for NA cars...? Ok, found it, Page 5461 and near that have the same info for GT's.

Edited by Max Capacity

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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So I did the blow air into the filler pipe trick. Seemed to have helped. I was able to put 7.6 gallons in the tank with moving the fill nozzle around a bit. Sometimes upside down other times at 4 o'clock or 8 o'clock.

 

When I got back home, I took my rag and tire filling air nozzle, compressor had 60psi and gave the fill pipe another few short blast of air. Now the tank is almost full, appox, 15 gallons or more.

 

 

When I first blew air into the tank, there was about 7 gallons in it.

 

At first I just blew air "without" stuffing a rag around the air nozzle. When I stopped blowing into it, I could hear a pop/click sound, like that ball is falling back onto its seat ?

Again. I only gave it maybe 3 seconds of air pressure.

 

 

After filling the tank, without rag, when I stop blowing air, I don't hear the pop/clicking sound. (remember, tank is not fully full) maybe 15 gallons.

 

I'll drive the wagon on Sunday for a 120 mile round trip to meet up with a member from here.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Today I was able to put 7 gallons of gas in non-stop. Maybe that "blowing air" into the filler tube worked...

 

It's been 170 miles since I did the first blew into the tube, no CEL...yet...

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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P0457 came back today, 191 miles since the last CEL.

 

If the garage was ready, I'd get after this...but I might just bite the bullet and have the mechanic fix it.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

I just called the mechanic back from a message they left. The smoke test shows the canister is working fine and not leaks up front., But it did show a small leak on the filler neck where that roll over valve is attached. They will pull the filler neck on Monday and see what they can do to repair it.

 

He did say, that valve can make it hard to put gas in the tank at times.

 

For reference, see the pictures in post 10 the apexi posted.

Edited by Max Capacity

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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They just called, they are ordering a fuel shut off valve, they found that to be the issue. Part should be in tomorrow.

 

https://www.stockwiseauto.com/spectra-premium-fna04-fuel-shut-off-valve?fit_id=12052&Year=2006&Make=Subaru&Model=Legacy&gsID=pxf2098318f12052&gclid=CjwKCAiAhreNBhAYEiwAFGGKPP_ojvEvTylQ0VfnRDEJ7dWdoSMrOycPntIUGlMuZBEorX4xOkmXVRoCulEQAvD_BwE

 

 

FWIW, here's the old rusty fill pipe removed back in Aug 2017.

 

DSCN7718.thumb.JPG.be0ffee9cd9be81e75e2f10640f5e394.JPG

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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Just picked the car up. They replaced the fuel shut off valve. Left me a note commenting on the driveline noise/vibration. They looked the suspension over and couldn't find any issues.

I told them, that just the stiff mounts, and Subaru 5mt. The transmission guy can't figure it out either.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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FWIW, I copied this from another site, it was posted back in March 2012.

The valve is called a shut valve on my documentation, but we often refer to it as a rollover valve here.

 

I can tell you what the valve does. It's nothing but a bent piece of pipe in it's normal mode. It's a square box with two 1/4" metal tubes pointing down and there is a push button on the side that engages the hole in the filler neck. When you put a fuel nozzle in the filler, a metal paddle inside the filler pipe pushes against the button and this blocks flow between the two tube connections. There is no one way check valve function, the two connections flow freely in either direction except when fueling. When the button is pushed in, there is no flow path in either direction. Every picture I've seen of this arrangement always has the two hoses crossing between the car connections and the valve. I would preserve that arrangement, some people have had problems that were fixed by swapping the two hoses.

 

There is no flow path between the two tube connections and the filler neck flange where the button connects. The button shaft is sealed to the valve body and the valve seals to the filler neck by means of a round bushing that engages the hole in the tube. There is no flat gasket at the joint.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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  • 1 month later...

Update, the CEL came back on, P0442 small evap leak.

 

I just stopped by the repair shop, they showed me where the smoke test showed them a bad grommet fitting where a hose comes through the body and connects to the metal pipe. He's replacing that nipple and hose.

 

So this should fix the issue with both those codes that have been popping up over the past year or so...

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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Update, the CEL came back on, P0442 small evap leak.

 

I just stopped by the repair shop, they showed me where the smoke test showed them a bad grommet fitting where a hose comes through the body and connects to the metal pipe. He's replacing that nipple and hose.

 

So this should fix the issue with both those codes that have been popping up over the past year or so...

 

 

Where is that Max? Engine bay or tank filler neck?

2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K

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Are these cars get older, these EVAP CEL's are really a pain. Replacing the gas tank on my LGT has kept the light off for the past couple of years, but I'm just waiting for it to come back.

 

My wife's Honda CRV has the same struggles. Same P0457 CEL has been on for years now. No one can find the leak.

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I just picked up this smoke tester on eBay to get the bottom of these issues. It's the best/cheapest I've found that has the proper PSI output (0.5 PSI) and is designed in a compact package, though I've yet to actually use it. The problem is most smoke EVAP machines require shop air, luckily my Viair compressor has the proper connections.

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I just picked up this smoke tester on eBay to get the bottom of these issues. It's the best/cheapest I've found that has the proper PSI output (0.5 PSI) and is designed in a compact package, though I've yet to actually use it. The problem is most smoke EVAP machines require shop air, luckily my Viair compressor has the proper connections.

 

You can get a set of air hose fittings at Harbor Fright or most anywhere tools are sold. SO getting the correct fittings shouldn't be that hard. I seem to recall that are two styles if male push-on QD's for air hoses. Most are on 1/4NPT.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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I'm headed there today :spin:. Gonna pick up a set of the Daytona wheel dollies too for work too. For some reason our parking customers have a habit of boxing cars in without leaving their keys. Plan on picking up this coil hose.

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Hose...I laugh out loud when I see what hose cost. I must have 200ft of air hose. I remember once back in the Pit's at Atco Raceway when one someone asked me if I could help them cut holes on their rear bumper on their Honda Civic. His car was away's off in the distance. I had plenty of air hose from my compressor to his car. Our 5th wheel trailer was 40ft long. so storage space was not an issue.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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So here is the fix for my P0442.

 

"Smoked system, found an EVAP line from fuel tank to top of filler neck that had rotted all the way through the body then up to solenoid on filler neck. The steel line is discontinued. Cut the steel back after removing all cargo area interior and flared line to hold a rubber hose. Ran hose through OE grommet and hold down to the coupler at tank side rubber hose. Re-smoked system, no leaks."

Edited by Max Capacity

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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Are these cars get older, these EVAP CEL's are really a pain. Replacing the gas tank on my LGT has kept the light off for the past couple of years, but I'm just waiting for it to come back.

 

My wife's Honda CRV has the same struggles. Same P0457 CEL has been on for years now. No one can find the leak.

 

P0457 or P1457? What year? There are a couple components that can pass a smoke test but will still cause the code the set. Honda has one of the more basic evap systems when it comes to diagnostics.

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P0457 or P1457? What year? There are a couple components that can pass a smoke test but will still cause the code the set. Honda has one of the more basic evap systems when it comes to diagnostics.

 

It's P1457. It's a 1999 CRV. Last time I had it smoked tested, it passed. I can get the light to stay off long enough for the emissions test after a reset but it will come back on after 100 miles. Any suggestions?

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It's P1457. It's a 1999 CRV. Last time I had it smoked tested, it passed. I can get the light to stay off long enough for the emissions test after a reset but it will come back on after 100 miles. Any suggestions?

 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10207124&cc=1355633&pt=16992&jsn=10384&_nck=Ekt6BqBF1pwlXdx0gYlm1esw98pF26vehMm%2FGG3C%2Fl2QOXSJubi7Wbtv3UuYQU5U70IOqpyPMG1tzuU1XPpL4y58WPnTODysdl3oNg1HzFrtIJYiPXozrQC%2F%2BmwRXMXgqTvHOtG73sptmH7%2FcJ6xbeyH061kDsjy2DhOH56clsfRDRK7zW3bp%2Frou0I8flayJERyxYHqJTcx4bS7ibjlHvVZSZnE9ywDL%2B4ghSF%2FHr4r%2BiOkqdCaVxRHqFeCRmpkGJ7N6WxbdPg4IJYF0An5GQ9BP9HwpB0qAcLPP5m7z31ERacShR0pIA8dBUXvnn1h66I7Ngl8VkViYanrpFGh6pZ2fvwct2RVeZ2vDYOqCQXEEtW5XhCqisYvSTjTpo9cZuSIe6fyMNJGfhZUYTluT1jb0rG7inuLz1HeprKA9EZuJu2kZRN6v8Yr536YA51OnX7m0kuYH%2BJ5WpCsfWaIbPDE4NatVGYJOtH8UJNo1IJjgzwt1rWlJgGd31N2%2FUoVgsRKvrBRQ8MBF9tGgNx0tnR%2BLDGyudsu

 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2677526&cc=1355633&pt=16992&jsn=10385&_nck=Ekt6BqBF1pwlXdx0gYlm1esw98pF26vehMm%2FGG3C%2Fl2QOXSJubi7Wbtv3UuYQU5U70IOqpyPMG1tzuU1XPpL4y58WPnTODysdl3oNg1HzFrtIJYiPXozrQC%2F%2BmwRXMXgqTvHOtG73sptmH7%2FcJ6xbeyH061kDsjy2DhOH56clsfRDRK7zW3bp%2Frou0I8flayJERyxYHqJTcx4bS7ibjlHvVZSZnE9ywDL%2B4ghSF%2FHr4r%2BiOkqdCaVxRHqFeCRmpkGJ7N6WxbdPg4IJYF0An5GQ9BP9HwpB0qAcLPP5m7z31ERacShR0pIA8dBUXvnn1h66I7Ngl8VkViYanrpFGh6pZ2fvwct2RVeZ2vDYOqCQXEEtW5XhCqisYvSTjTpo9cZuSIe6fyMNJGfhZUYTluT1jb0rG7inuLz1HeprKA9EZuJu2kZRN6v8Yr536YA51OnX7m0kuYH%2BJ5WpCsfWaIbPDE4NatVGYJOtH8UJNo1IJjgzwt1rWlJgGd31N2%2FUoVgsRKvrBRQ8MBF9tGgNx0tnR%2BLDGyudsu

 

The part in the first link is not actually a solenoid but it's always listed as one. It's a two way valve that is attached to the actual solenoid in the second link. You can test my theory by removing the two way valve to check for fuel contamination. If fuel drips out, she's bad and so is the solenoid. There's a strong possibility the little phillips head screws will be rusted so have a good pair of tiny pliers handy.

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https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10207124&cc=1355633&pt=16992&jsn=10384&_nck=Ekt6BqBF1pwlXdx0gYlm1esw98pF26vehMm%2FGG3C%2Fl2QOXSJubi7Wbtv3UuYQU5U70IOqpyPMG1tzuU1XPpL4y58WPnTODysdl3oNg1HzFrtIJYiPXozrQC%2F%2BmwRXMXgqTvHOtG73sptmH7%2FcJ6xbeyH061kDsjy2DhOH56clsfRDRK7zW3bp%2Frou0I8flayJERyxYHqJTcx4bS7ibjlHvVZSZnE9ywDL%2B4ghSF%2FHr4r%2BiOkqdCaVxRHqFeCRmpkGJ7N6WxbdPg4IJYF0An5GQ9BP9HwpB0qAcLPP5m7z31ERacShR0pIA8dBUXvnn1h66I7Ngl8VkViYanrpFGh6pZ2fvwct2RVeZ2vDYOqCQXEEtW5XhCqisYvSTjTpo9cZuSIe6fyMNJGfhZUYTluT1jb0rG7inuLz1HeprKA9EZuJu2kZRN6v8Yr536YA51OnX7m0kuYH%2BJ5WpCsfWaIbPDE4NatVGYJOtH8UJNo1IJjgzwt1rWlJgGd31N2%2FUoVgsRKvrBRQ8MBF9tGgNx0tnR%2BLDGyudsu

 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2677526&cc=1355633&pt=16992&jsn=10385&_nck=Ekt6BqBF1pwlXdx0gYlm1esw98pF26vehMm%2FGG3C%2Fl2QOXSJubi7Wbtv3UuYQU5U70IOqpyPMG1tzuU1XPpL4y58WPnTODysdl3oNg1HzFrtIJYiPXozrQC%2F%2BmwRXMXgqTvHOtG73sptmH7%2FcJ6xbeyH061kDsjy2DhOH56clsfRDRK7zW3bp%2Frou0I8flayJERyxYHqJTcx4bS7ibjlHvVZSZnE9ywDL%2B4ghSF%2FHr4r%2BiOkqdCaVxRHqFeCRmpkGJ7N6WxbdPg4IJYF0An5GQ9BP9HwpB0qAcLPP5m7z31ERacShR0pIA8dBUXvnn1h66I7Ngl8VkViYanrpFGh6pZ2fvwct2RVeZ2vDYOqCQXEEtW5XhCqisYvSTjTpo9cZuSIe6fyMNJGfhZUYTluT1jb0rG7inuLz1HeprKA9EZuJu2kZRN6v8Yr536YA51OnX7m0kuYH%2BJ5WpCsfWaIbPDE4NatVGYJOtH8UJNo1IJjgzwt1rWlJgGd31N2%2FUoVgsRKvrBRQ8MBF9tGgNx0tnR%2BLDGyudsu

 

The part in the first link is not actually a solenoid but it's always listed as one. It's a two way valve that is attached to the actual solenoid in the second link. You can test my theory by removing the two way valve to check for fuel contamination. If fuel drips out, she's bad and so is the solenoid. There's a strong possibility the little phillips head screws will be rusted so have a good pair of tiny pliers handy.

 

Thank you! I know I've had these off before, I'll take a look at them again now that I know how to tell if they're bad or not.

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