gsgleason Posted June 30, 2021 Share Posted June 30, 2021 I got a WRX so I'm selling my 2010 2.5 GT. A kid wanted to take it to the local dealership for a pre purchase inspection. They said they 'saw oil and coolant' around the turbo and that they recommend replacing the entire damn thing, including literally every hose, bolt, etc, and quoted $3400 for that. I've never had a leak show up on my garage floor in the 6 years I've had it, and never had any CEL or boost issue. I recently had my 60k service done by my trusted subaru tech who works at an independent shop and when I called him after I got the news he was surprised and thought that sounded fishy. What do you all think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdcvg Posted June 30, 2021 Share Posted June 30, 2021 Ignore them. Have the prospective buyer call Your mechanic to discuss the car. If He doesn't trust that then next buyer is up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 30, 2021 Share Posted June 30, 2021 Pictures of that area ? The valve covers are known to have a small leak on these engines. You should look around the turbo coolant tank yourself. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted June 30, 2021 Share Posted June 30, 2021 a dealership is always looking for new business Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RWebb Posted June 30, 2021 Share Posted June 30, 2021 Light the car on fire; tissues in the glovebox , and collect the insurance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted June 30, 2021 Share Posted June 30, 2021 It probably is the metal coolant lines going to the turbo by the front engine mount that is leaking. Very common area to leak on a 5th Gen and most of the time they break from rust when doing a timing belt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted June 30, 2021 Share Posted June 30, 2021 The coolant lines is a $50 part and maybe 2 hope labor. Definitely not a $3400 repair where coolant line would have needed to replaced anyways. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsgleason Posted July 1, 2021 Author Share Posted July 1, 2021 Thanks, guys. I'm taking it to my dude next week. The kid is in automotive tech school as well and he asked he he could take a look under the engine to see if it can tell what they're talking about, so I have it up on ramps right now waiting for it to cool off a bit before I take the undercover off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsgleason Posted July 1, 2021 Author Share Posted July 1, 2021 Pictures of that area ? The valve covers are known to have a small leak on these engines. You should look around the turbo coolant tank yourself. Here, I took off the bottom cover and the metal shield under the turbo for these pics: https://photos.app.goo.gl/mkaTvFUZMx2SPJbB9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 2, 2021 Share Posted July 2, 2021 I need to remember this a 2010 GT. Looks like the oil is coming from above the turbo...Front oil seal Or something in that area ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted July 3, 2021 Share Posted July 3, 2021 (edited) It looks more like oil than coolant to me. One of the problems is that the oil filter is in that area and often drips on to the turbo during the oil change. It kind of looks more like oil spilled from the oil change. The scavenge pump and oil source come from the rear passenger head. Under the engine you can seem the two metal lines on passenger side of the head on the bottom, they are bolts and are bolt the the head. You can follow them to the turbo from that point. If it is coolant it most likely the metal turbo coolant hose fitting that are corroded. You engine doesn't look that rusty though. I don't see those in the pictures, but they are more towards the front just above the turbo oil pan. They have two banjo bolt fittings. Edited July 4, 2021 by dgoodhue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted July 3, 2021 Share Posted July 3, 2021 I have a 2010GT apart so I might as well take some pictures rather than explain it. You can see the oil pan which when mounted it is on the bottom. It has two oil connections on the left (passenger side) one goes to the scavenging pump at the back the heads, the other I believe goes to one of the five vacuum lines that run down the front of the motor on the passenger side over the timing cover. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted July 3, 2021 Share Posted July 3, 2021 Here is the coolant lines, they are on the front of the turbo just above the turbo oil pan. (This one is crusty and does leak) I also put in pictures of my '12 GT from inside the engine compartment looking down at the radiator so you can see where the coolant lines are located. (my finger is pointing to the two connections) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted July 3, 2021 Share Posted July 3, 2021 On the top of the turbo is the turbo oil feed which my finger points to. The connection line bolts to the Botton of the passenger cylinder head and up the back side of the motor to rear passenger heads for the oil source. These are the potential oil leak sources, though I suppose the turbo to turbo oil pan could leak But I think that one is doubtful, since it is just a gravity oil drain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keyan Posted July 3, 2021 Share Posted July 3, 2021 i dont see what the big deal is that the dealer said the car would need a turbo during a PRE-PURCHASE inspection. the mechanic is covering his ass by telling you its leaking. it may not be a crazy leak but you also didnt pay to have the mechanic take it apart and identify the exact failure component. plus, it is to your benefit to have a mechanic say the car needs a 3400 dollar repair. you get that to negotiate the price lower, where then as an educated car guy can fix it for much cheaper than the mechanic said. sounds win win to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted July 3, 2021 Share Posted July 3, 2021 He is the seller. The inspecting dealer is telling the buyer that his car needs a $3400 repair. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted July 4, 2021 Share Posted July 4, 2021 you buy a used car because you don't want to buy a new car? then you buy problems. Either negotiate or accept. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsgleason Posted July 5, 2021 Author Share Posted July 5, 2021 you buy a used car because you don't want to buy a new car? then you buy problems. Either negotiate or accept. You should tell that to the potential buyer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shralp Posted July 5, 2021 Share Posted July 5, 2021 (edited) I got a WRX so I'm selling my 2010 2.5 GT. A kid wanted to take it to the local dealership for a pre purchase inspection. They said they 'saw oil and coolant' around the turbo and that they recommend replacing the entire damn thing, including literally every hose, bolt, etc, and quoted $3400 for that. I've never had a leak show up on my garage floor in the 6 years I've had it, and never had any CEL or boost issue. I recently had my 60k service done by my trusted subaru tech who works at an independent shop and when I called him after I got the news he was surprised and thought that sounded fishy. What do you all think? Yup thats the stealership for you. Problems, (or lack of serious ones), with your particular situation aside, you're usually going to get someone thats not allowed to really make a targeted call on something. They are trained to diagnose a problem and provide a solution that will lead to a successful outcome for the customer. Even if that means suggesting replacing a number of parts in the system to make the repair when perhaps its a much smaller, (cheaper), issue to fix. Getting most dealerships to think outside the box is a headache. I had an issue a few years back with my local dealer when I brought my Outback XT in for a front suspension / brake issue as my tuner was super booked out. I mentioned that the car had front GT calipers / rotors swapped on and they immediately defaulted to the "non-OEM parts for your vehicle" as part of the problem when it has nothing to do with it. The concept that OEM Subaru calipers are seamlessly interchangeable between the two models was just too much for their brains to process Edited July 5, 2021 by shralp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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