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main fuse 26 keep blowing


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... main compartment fuse 26 [10 A] blows ...

You need to be more specific. What year Legacy? What trim level? Which "main" fuse block (engine compartment or passenger compartment)?

 

If you're talking about fuse #26 in the passenger compartment fuse block, it mostly provides power to interior lights, the exterior running lights, and the door courtesy lights ... per the Factory Service Manual. Have any of the stock lamps been replaced recently? ... by LEDs, perhaps? That would be a place to start.

"If you don't know where you're going, any road will take you there." ~ The Cheshire Cat (Alice in Wonderland)

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You need to be more specific. What year Legacy? What trim level? Which "main" fuse block (engine compartment or passenger compartment)?

 

If you're talking about fuse #26 in the passenger compartment fuse block, it mostly provides power to interior lights, the exterior running lights, and the door courtesy lights ... per the Factory Service Manual. Have any of the stock lamps been replaced recently? ... by LEDs, perhaps? That would be a place to start.

 

Hi ammcinnis:

its a 2015 legacy 2.5. passenger compartment fuse block. I have not had any lights replaced. When it blows my key fob does not work and the radio clock resets to 1pm everytime the car is started. It does not store the time.

Thanks

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It may also be an issue with the Body Integrated Unit (BIU).

(might explain your FOB not working once fuse is blown)

I have attached a few excerpts from the wiring section of the service manual from my '16.

It may provide some guidance.

You might want to get a handful of 10A fuses and troubleshoot 'old school'.

Replace the fuse and note exactly what you are doing when is blows... Opening a door, unlocking the car, etc.

Fuse 26 Service Manual Excerpt.pdf

Edited by Painless
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I have attached a few excerpts from the wiring section of the service manual from my '16.

It may provide some guidance.

Many thanks. I hope the OP realizes the amount of work you put into that.

"If you don't know where you're going, any road will take you there." ~ The Cheshire Cat (Alice in Wonderland)

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it seams to be related to the interior dome light. It was switched in the off position. When I turned it back to the "door" position the clock on the dash and the key fob is now working again.
If you had LED Installed maybe the polarity was switched.

 

Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk

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id bet theres a mouse in your headliner ...

... or somewhere along the wiring harness ... or a pinched wire near the dome light.

"If you don't know where you're going, any road will take you there." ~ The Cheshire Cat (Alice in Wonderland)

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I have had no work done on the electrical side by anyone but me troubleshooting the problem. I will have to check the led light under the rockers to see if they came back on when the door is open. I did move the wires a little under the hood that go into the front wheel well's (that may be the wires that go to them).
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hello Sir,

 

I do not know if you have already solved the problem, but try this:

 

Engine off, Key out, remove the 10A fuse, take your multimeter black lead to negative battery post or anywhere on the good metal part of the car that is not painted, and take the red meter lead to the both sides of the contacts where the fuse was plugged in. Oh, the meter must be set to the function that beeps or low ohms. Let me know what you find. Another thing you can check if the bulbs are original power (W) .

 

I will tell you the rest of the procedure why not :), if you hear the beep or you see some ohms that means your dome light circuit is shorted to ground. So, keep the multimeter connected while is beeping and wiggle the wires that you were playing with by the fender. or near the dome light. If you hear the beep stop while wiggling your wires, you have found the problem, look for damaged insulation or pinched wires. Also find the wire diagram post it here and I will help you with the rest.

Edited by aki334
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