Clutch is toast.(Help needed)

[Jolbaru_LGT]

So, I'm pretty sure the throw out bearing is toast. It's been hard to engage 1st gear for a while, a little grinding on 4th, and a grinding or bearing noise when stopped and pushing in the clutch.(stops when I release the pedal)

 

Anyways, coming home, it started lurching forward with the car in 1st and the clutch pedal in, also a fan belt squealing noise when the clutch pedal is depressed. It's enough for me to want to park the car and not drive it. Good thing it happened at home, I can't imagine being out on the road with that, so at least there's that. But now, I've got to wrap my head around a clutch job. Seems a little mega...

 

Any advice, links or warnings? I know the PO(Bro) put a WRX clutch/pressure plate and TOB in. Is that the setup I should keep? I got about 85,000 approx. miles out of it.

[Max Capacity]

I'm guessing you need the TSK3 TOB kit with a new clutch.

[Jolbaru_LGT]

I'm guessing you need the TSK3 TOB kit with a new clutch.

 

Thanks! The kit with the sleeve repair?

[Max Capacity]

Yes. You'll know more once the tranny is out. You may get lucky and just need the TOB...

 

I wonder if you talk with a vendor that sells everything you need, if it would be easy to send the TSK3 kit back if you didn't need it, as it turns out only your TOB is bad and the snout is ok ?

 

https://www.google.com/search?q=tsk3+sleeve+kit&rlz=1C1OKWM_enUS906US906&sxsrf=ALeKk03ipIl94u1xKHxW4KKcLquXWDPA8g%3A1621531598882&ei=zpumYOqeNcG-ggfww6agDA&oq=tsk3&gs_lcp=Cgdnd3Mtd2l6EAEYAjICCAAyAggAMgIIADICCAAyAggAMgIIADICCAA6BwgAEEcQsAM6BAgjECc6BAguEEM6BQgAEJECOgQIABBDOgoIABCxAxCDARBDOg0ILhCxAxDHARCjAhBDOggIABCxAxCDAToFCAAQsQM6CAguEMcBEK8BOgcIABCxAxBDOgQIABAKUJzQCljI2Qpg0oALaAFwAXgAgAHMAogB2QWSAQcyLjIuMC4xmAEAoAEBqgEHZ3dzLXdpesgBCMABAQ&sclient=gws-wiz

[Max Capacity]

If your lucky, you may be able to stick a small mirror in the clutch fork boot and look around...

[Jolbaru_LGT]

UPDATE: I can physically move the clutch fork back and forth with no resistance from above. About 1/2" of free play. This doesn't seem normal. Could it be cracked or busted? I know it's original. The newer ones are beefier? Seems like if that's the problem, I'll have to replace that along with the clutch and TOB, just because getting in there is so difficult? Edited May 28, 2021 by Jolbaru_LGT

[Max Capacity]

Yes, sounds like you understand you need to buy a new fork and replace the clutch kit.

 

put a little high temp grease on the tranny snout where the TOB slides and the splines of the input shaft where the clutch disc rides.

[Jolbaru_LGT]

Sorry for all the questions, but is a stock Subaru fork ok, or, is there some better aftermarket one? Also, what kind of grease do you use for the slave cylinder boot? Looks a little graphite-y..

 

Exedy Stage 1 or 2 kit? I don't really race at all, but I'm considering the random autocross here and there...

 

thanks!

Edited May 29, 2021 by Jolbaru_LGT

[Max Capacity]

I replaced mine with a stock fork years back.

 

I did not grease the slave cylinder piston. I would guess a silicone grease would be fine.

 

I'm a Spec Clutch guy, a Spec 2+ is what they recommend for these cars. I also have the Spec LWFW with a replaceable friction surface.

 

I'll send you a PM with contact info. Don't worry about the price, they may offer you a lower cost.

 

https://specclutch.com/applications/subaru-legacy-2-5t-gt/?car_year=2005&type=13925&stage=2p

Edited May 29, 2021 by Max Capacity

[Jolbaru_LGT]

What are your thoughts on the Versus forged fork?

[Infosecdad]

What are your thoughts on the Versus forged fork?

 

I have one, I like it.

Do I need it, don't know, but I didn't want to find out that I needed it and didn't have it.

Since I had a good bit heavier stage 2 clutch, I wanted to err on over-engineering...

[apexi]

About grease, check out page 3 below. Your turbo might be a little different with lube points, but it should still give you a general idea.

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2020/MC-10179416-0001.pdf

"Where applicable, the release lever (fork), shaft, pivot ball / stud, ends of the operating

cylinder rod, release bearing contact points on both the release lever and pressure plate

along with the input shaft splines should all be properly lubricated with the grease specified

in the Service Manual (Nichimoly N-130, Conoco-Philips Multiplex Red #2 or Subaru p.n.

000041000)"

 

I tend to think too much about stuff like this, I looked at all kinds of greases before doing my clutch a few months ago. Seems like the best choice would be a high temperature grease with a low drop point, and molybdenum fortified is a plus. I ended up just buying a little container of honda super high temp urea grease and using that. Honda specs that on all their clutch pivot points, so I figured it's good enough for my subie too. On the clutch splines I used the included packet of grease that comes with the clutch, and used an old toothbrush to work it into the splines. Exedy stresses not to use too much lube on the splines https://youtu.be/xnYe4GZMvSo?t=425

 

edit: Rhino's post below reminded me that I used a little bit of this where the TOB rides https://www.permatex.com/products/lubricants/specialty-lubricants-brakes/permatex-silicone-ceramic-extreme-brake-parts-lubricant/

I've heard of other people using brake parts lube on the pivot points, splines, and where the tob rides. Honestly, it doesn't seem like it'd be a bad choice (any high temp brake lube, purple permatex ceramic too). High temperature, drop point listed as "none" in the TDS, lower timken wear number but I don't know how much that will matter.

Edited June 2, 2021 by apexi

[rhino6303]

I to have used the honda urea grease on my subaru clutch jobs since I had leftoevr from honda days.

 

I currently plan to use ceramlub on my next clutch job. It's what ZF Design recommends and sends with their clutch kits.

[Jolbaru_LGT]

About grease, check out page 3 below. Your turbo might be a little different with lube points, but it should still give you a general idea.

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2020/MC-10179416-0001.pdf

"Where applicable, the release lever (fork), shaft, pivot ball / stud, ends of the operating

cylinder rod, release bearing contact points on both the release lever and pressure plate

along with the input shaft splines should all be properly lubricated with the grease specified

in the Service Manual (Nichimoly N-130, Conoco-Philips Multiplex Red #2 or Subaru p.n.

000041000)"

 

I tend to think too much about stuff like this, I looked at all kinds of greases before doing my clutch a few months ago. Seems like the best choice would be a high temperature grease with a low drop point, and molybdenum fortified is a plus. I ended up just buying a little container of honda super high temp urea grease and using that. Honda specs that on all their clutch pivot points, so I figured it's good enough for my subie too. On the clutch splines I used the included packet of grease that comes with the clutch, and used an old toothbrush to work it into the splines. Exedy stresses not to use too much lube on the splines https://youtu.be/xnYe4GZMvSo?t=425

 

edit: Rhino's post below reminded me that I used a little bit of this where the TOB rides https://www.permatex.com/products/lubricants/specialty-lubricants-brakes/permatex-silicone-ceramic-extreme-brake-parts-lubricant/

I've heard of other people using brake parts lube on the pivot points, splines, and where the tob rides. Honestly, it doesn't seem like it'd be a bad choice (any high temp brake lube, purple permatex ceramic too). High temperature, drop point listed as "none" in the TDS, lower timken wear number but I don't know how much that will matter.

 

I went with Phillips 66 Multiplex Red #2 from Fastenal.