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06 LGT Radiator Replacement


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  • 1 month later...
Having a bigger Mishimoto, I wouldn't do it again. I'm not happy with how it limits the space in front of the engine. Makes it hard to work in that area to change out a idler pulley or adjust things if needed.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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I had that issue, which is why I tried Mishimoto. The first radiator arrived damaged from transit. Mishimoto sent me another one free of charge. With the stock fans it is a tight fit. Bought one if there slim fit fan setups. Haven't had any issues regarding temp.
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  • 2 months later...
I went with Koyo as my tuner prefers their build quality and fitment over Mishimoto

 

Bumping this thread :spin:

 

Shralp, since you race, what kind of coolant temp do you see on hot days (e.g. > 90F) and sustained boost periods?

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Bumping this thread :spin:

 

Shralp, since you race, what kind of coolant temp do you see on hot days (e.g. > 90F) and sustained boost periods?

 

Bout 210 or so on a hot day. This is absolutely pinned though for a 20 min session, i.e. - living at 3500-6700 rpm consistently.

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Bout 210 or so on a hot day. This is absolutely pinned though for a 20 min session, i.e. - living at 3500-6700 rpm consistently.

 

 

Thanks.

 

Did you ever race with the stock radiator unit? If yes, what kind of temps were you seeing? If not, what would you expect to see? 220-230F?

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Did run the stock one for a number of seasons but was pushing less power but not that much. Anything over 220 is no bueno. Didn't have my AP on the dash back then but my temp gauge would be a tick or two above mid way, (generally a tick or two below half way in typical day to day driving)
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So, it sounds like you clearly noticed improvements once you installed the Koyo unit.

 

 

In my case (not racing but driving in HOT conditions and at altitude with heavy load), I did notice that the tune either runs richer or removes timing once you pass 215F. I've hit 229F a couple of times :eek:. But the temps go down quickly once you decrease load. I think intake temps was like 120F and I was staying at around 8-12 psi of boost for quite some time trying to maintain speed (steep mountain grade).

I think it also does not help that I have a thick aluminum skid plate, slightly lifted outback, heavier tires, etc...

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Oh also, do you run an aftermarket oil cooler?

 

Not running an aftermarket oil cooler but may do that in the future. Did swap out to the new IAG competition oil pan and baffle so running +1 qt now. So yup did see some improvement with the new Koyo. Swapped it in preemptively when I did the forged motor build not because it failed. Certainly it wouldn’t hurt your situation. The next option would be to put in some of the bigger but thin profile SPAL fans to replace the stock ones

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Thanks man. One more question :redface:. Which coolant have you been using?

 

 

 

On a side note, I just discovered that the return coolant line from my turbo has been leaking. Been smelling coolant for a while in the engine bay. Maybe, that was a small contributor to coolant temps easily climbing when I was pushing the car. Just learned that since I have a VF52, I should use a slightly longer return line instead of the one for our VF40. Just purchased it.

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Thanks man. One more question :redface:. Which coolant have you been using?

 

 

 

On a side note, I just discovered that the return coolant line from my turbo has been leaking. Been smelling coolant for a while in the engine bay. Maybe, that was a small contributor to coolant temps easily climbing when I was pushing the car. Just learned that since I have a VF52, I should use a slightly longer return line instead of the one for our VF40. Just purchased it.

Slightly longer coolant return? Details please

 

Sent from my HD1925 using Tapatalk

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Thanks man. One more question :redface:. Which coolant have you been using?

 

 

 

On a side note, I just discovered that the return coolant line from my turbo has been leaking. Been smelling coolant for a while in the engine bay. Maybe, that was a small contributor to coolant temps easily climbing when I was pushing the car. Just learned that since I have a VF52, I should use a slightly longer return line instead of the one for our VF40. Just purchased it.

 

Oh gosh, not sure what coolant I'm using, whatever Cobb Surgeline put in when they did the install. Also, the coolant return line from my turbo res. to the radiator was also leaking this last season and yes it did cause some temp creep as the system is designed work under pressure to keep the boiling point down. It was a phantom leak that I noticed after coming off track. something was spraying coolant under pressure onto my pass side timing cover / Cobb air box but the ends of the line both at the res and rad looked fine. Finally discovered that the OEM clamp and just the very end of the line was fatigued and deformed enough to just shoot a quick spray of coolant and then essentially "reseal" itself. Replaced the res to rad line with a fresh OEM one and better clamps and its all good now

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