Beamercub Posted September 10, 2020 Share Posted September 10, 2020 Been feeling a slightly rough idle and stumble on acceleration... Hates to cruise between 45-55mph. Anything faster and I don't notice the stumble. Not quite a misfire... I'm more annoyed than anything. I've already had the engine and tranny cracked open twice. First time was to fix a leaking rear main seal. Second time was to repair the same thing again because they used a defective seal as a replacement. I change my own oil and i'm loosing about a quart between changes. The oil loss is a newer thing i'm noticing. Current mileage is 83k. Any ideas? Gonna put the scanner on it and see if any codes are being thrown.. It's just so frustrating, especially because i noticed the stumble 1/2 on my way to NJ from MA.. And drove back thinking I would get that def misfire and get a check engine light.. ARGH. spark plugs and all 6 coils were replaced at 60k,. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gathermewool Posted September 10, 2020 Share Posted September 10, 2020 Why was the CVT cracked into? Why were your coils replaced, not to mention ALL of them? Stupid question: is one of your wheels slightly bent, unable to be balanced? When WAS your last balancing? '15 FB25 Magnatec 0W-20 + FU filter (70,517 miles) RSB, Fr. Strut Bar, Tint, STI BBS, LED er'where Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sylquist Posted September 13, 2020 Share Posted September 13, 2020 Read that there’s a new lawsuit for fuel pumps that may include MY 2013-2019. Perhaps could be the problem. Mine idles rough. Thought it was the MAF and replaced it. Fixed the rough idle for a bit, but it’s back now. https://kehoelawfirm.com/active-investigations/subaru-vehicle-recall-fuel-pump Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ammcinnis Posted September 13, 2020 Share Posted September 13, 2020 Read that there’s a new lawsuit for fuel pumps that may include MY 2013-2019. Stuff like this is why automobile manufacturers, including Subaru, hate to issue voluntary recalls and service bulletins. In this case, Denso and Subaru identified a potential defect affecting a single production run of fuel pumps that were installed in some model year 2019 Legacys, Outbacks, Imprezas, and Ascents. Subaru subsequently initiated a voluntary recall of all potentially affected fuel pumps. See Subaru recall WRD-20R (NHTSA 20V0218). The lawsuit seeks to expand the recall from the one affected production run to every fuel pump of that design ever manufactured ... with big fees accruing to the plaintiff attorneys, of course. "If you don't know where you're going, any road will take you there." ~ The Cheshire Cat (Alice in Wonderland) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
delbon Posted September 14, 2020 Share Posted September 14, 2020 have you tried cleaning the MAF sensor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beamercub Posted December 29, 2020 Author Share Posted December 29, 2020 Update: The problem went away on it's own. Ironically it has been acting up again with a sputter more than a mis-fire... I am going to try cleaning the MAF and I picked up a EGR valve back in september, gonna replace that as well.. Will make sure to update sooner than 4 months Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted December 29, 2020 Share Posted December 29, 2020 Looked into it, we likely have the same maf sensor. Make sure to get the resistors that are hidden inside (https://www.rockauto.com/info/111/8650070-lef__ra_p.jpg), and not the temp sensor that's most visible on the outside. Different sensor, same idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gathermewool Posted December 29, 2020 Share Posted December 29, 2020 (edited) What do you mean by, “get the resistors”? Edited December 29, 2020 by gathermewool '15 FB25 Magnatec 0W-20 + FU filter (70,517 miles) RSB, Fr. Strut Bar, Tint, STI BBS, LED er'where Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted December 29, 2020 Share Posted December 29, 2020 I mean make sure to clean/spray/gently wipe the resistors that are kind of hidden up the tube on the sensor, he talks about it more in the video above Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gathermewool Posted December 29, 2020 Share Posted December 29, 2020 I don't get how cleaning the resistor would do anything at all. Resistors have a protective coating and won't change resistance based on external dirt. The only thing I can think of is if the coating of dirt bypasses the resistor and is even slightly conductive, which would change the overall, parallel-path resistance. '15 FB25 Magnatec 0W-20 + FU filter (70,517 miles) RSB, Fr. Strut Bar, Tint, STI BBS, LED er'where Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
apexi Posted December 29, 2020 Share Posted December 29, 2020 I don't know what to say, you're making this complicated. I'm just trying to say hit the resistors and the wires inside the maf sensor, and not the temperature sensor on the outside part of it. "Currently the most common MAF sensor is the plug-in hot wire type which is located inside the intake air duct between the air filter and the throttle body. This consists of a heating resistor, intake air temperature measurement resistor (for compensating intake air temperature), intake air temperature sensor, and control circuit (printed circuit board). A portion of the intake air from the air cleaner is bypassed into the hot-wire measurement area, where the intake airflow volume is measured. The hot-wire type MAF Sensor responds to temperature changes in the heating element. Changes in the resistance value and current of the heating element are converted into proportional voltage in the control circuit, and then sent to the ECU to calculate the amount of engine intake air volume. The intake air temperature sensor also detects the intake air temperature and outputs it to the ECU. Responding to this signal, the ECU judges the air density and corrects the fuel injection quantity." https://www.denso-am.eu/products/automotive-aftermarket/engine-management-systems/mass-air-flow-sensors/how-they-work/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beamercub Posted March 19, 2021 Author Share Posted March 19, 2021 Update: The problem went away on it's own. Ironically it has been acting up again with a sputter more than a mis-fire... I am going to try cleaning the MAF and I picked up a EGR valve back in september, gonna replace that as well.. Will make sure to update sooner than 4 months UPDATE: CHECK ENGINE light is on and flashing now. Scanned and got code : P0355. I am beyond annoyed at this point. Mileage 87k. With all the issues I have had with this car, no way I can keep it past 100k. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougKelly20 Posted March 20, 2021 Share Posted March 20, 2021 Maybe I missed it but you never answered why all of your coil packs were replaced. Given that code they seem to be the most likely culprit. Maybe one or more were slightly defective. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beamercub Posted March 22, 2021 Author Share Posted March 22, 2021 They were all replaced pro-actively.. It was cylinder 5, then #2 and they just replaced them all. It seems #5 is the issue for most 3.6R engines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougKelly20 Posted March 22, 2021 Share Posted March 22, 2021 Good to know thank you. I only have 36k on mine so far but I'll probably do plugs soon given my retune as a result of my exhaust project. Gonna try doing them myself and see how that goes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chowser51 Posted March 22, 2021 Share Posted March 22, 2021 they're not hard to do, i looked at mine and was ready to do it but ended up trading the car in at 73k miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gathermewool Posted March 22, 2021 Share Posted March 22, 2021 they're not hard to do, i looked at mine and was ready to do it but ended up trading the car in at 73k miles. That does sound easy!!! '15 FB25 Magnatec 0W-20 + FU filter (70,517 miles) RSB, Fr. Strut Bar, Tint, STI BBS, LED er'where Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brisvegas Posted March 23, 2021 Share Posted March 23, 2021 Good to know thank you. I only have 36k on mine so far but I'll probably do plugs soon given my retune as a result of my exhaust project.Gonna try doing them myself and see how that goes Maybe helpful ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougKelly20 Posted March 23, 2021 Share Posted March 23, 2021 Thank you very much!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chowser51 Posted March 23, 2021 Share Posted March 23, 2021 That does sound easy!!! lol, that's the easiest way! I recently did the plugs on my bmw and it was easier than the subaru. looking at my daughter's impreza now and it's easier than the legacy but not easier than the bmw. Just take your time and go slow. the first time on the bmw took me an hour. the second time 20 minutes. I went to 20k intervals on the bmw since I was running a tune. I'm going to stick to factory recommended intervals with the subaru. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougKelly20 Posted March 23, 2021 Share Posted March 23, 2021 Makes sense. It was stupid easy on my Kia optima...took about 20 minutes, but everything was right on top! I couldn't see why they get away with charging what they do for labor on plugs for inline 4s. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08legacygtturbo Posted March 24, 2021 Share Posted March 24, 2021 (edited) Hey everyone I was having this same problem changed out my AVCS solenoids ended up being my oil pressure switch also changed out my front O2/AFR sensor everything was working great and running great for 2 days then on day three last Sunday at idle I noticed I was running rich once again. And looked at the Cobb tuner and no codes but my AFRS are jumping around as well as my boost at idle and rpms where dropping down to the high 4xxs If anyone has an idea what might be causing this a possible failed O2 sensor let me know what you think I have checked for boost leaks can't find any Rpms are not dropping like they where on Sunday but the Afrs and boost are still jumping around compared to their normally rock solid idle readings Idle AFR bouncing from 13.98 to 15.04 Idle Boost is bouncing from -9.98 to -8.99 Idle rpm 768-800 Edited March 24, 2021 by 08legacygtturbo Info Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRu17 Posted April 10, 2021 Share Posted April 10, 2021 My car also idles rough and has almost stalled a time or two. First time it happened was on a very hot day and I thought the car was overheating. Anytime I idle for longer than a few minutes it starts dropping in rpms and acting like it's going to stall. I'll give it a little gas to bring up the rpms but I'll have to press the pedal much more than usual to get the same results. I had thought it was down a cylinder and was thinking air/fuel/spark. I immediately had the spark plugs and injectors looked at, which I was told were fine. It's very frustrating. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bsheaffer Posted April 15, 2021 Share Posted April 15, 2021 Update: The problem went away on it's own. Ironically it has been acting up again with a sputter more than a mis-fire... I am going to try cleaning the MAF and I picked up a EGR valve back in september, gonna replace that as well.. Will make sure to update sooner than 4 months Omg finally somebody kinda around my position... be careful and keep an eye on it it started with a sputter with me and has lead to multiple catastrophic engine failures with multiple cats destroyed and everything short of the engine replaced with no resolution.... I’m interested tho did you get an EGR code? P1494? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aki334 Posted April 25, 2021 Share Posted April 25, 2021 I don't get how cleaning the resistor would do anything at all. Resistors have a protective coating and won't change resistance based on external dirt. The only thing I can think of is if the coating of dirt bypasses the resistor and is even slightly conductive, which would change the overall, parallel-path resistance. Just for future references: this are not resistors, this are special hot wires that look like resistors. Hot wires sense how much air is touching them. No need to wipe anything since they are very thin and can be damaged. Just spray them with electro wash or maf cleaner spray. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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