ViscousSquirrel Posted September 9, 2020 Author Share Posted September 9, 2020 (edited) So, I was putting some more of the factory hoses on today and I realized that I have replaced almost all of them. I also realized how much money I forked over for OEM and how destroyed most of them were. Now I’m trying to figure out a way to protect them from the heat, especially the ones that hang out by the turbo. I’m reinstalling all of the factory heat shields and such but does anyone have any ideas how I might increase the longevity of these hoses? Edited September 9, 2020 by ViscousSquirrel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted September 9, 2020 Share Posted September 9, 2020 heatshieldproducts.com makes really good heat protectants. Much better than the dei stuff. I scraped two engines worth of converted to glass dei shielding from my oem headers. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ViscousSquirrel Posted September 9, 2020 Author Share Posted September 9, 2020 (edited) Got some stock top feed TGV's fuel rails, Fuel pressure regulator and Blue injectors. They went through the parts washer and I gave the bolts the same treatment as well as the wire brush. I gutted the TGV's and ported them a little bit. Edited September 9, 2020 by ViscousSquirrel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ViscousSquirrel Posted September 9, 2020 Author Share Posted September 9, 2020 I decided that wasn't exactly critical so I just did some JB weld repair to the corrosion. If it leaks I'll grab a replacement later. These aren't too bad to replace. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ViscousSquirrel Posted September 9, 2020 Author Share Posted September 9, 2020 Got some more goodies in the mail! Got some 14k mile heads from a friend of mine, one of which showed up today. A new clutch, wrx single mass flywheel and new pressure plate. Hopefully the other will make it here with the block off plates but one never knows with UPS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ViscousSquirrel Posted September 9, 2020 Author Share Posted September 9, 2020 OK some more Vacuum/PCV hoses! 99071AC010 is the passenger side breather to valve cover hose. 11815AB790 is the PCV valve with associated hoses Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ViscousSquirrel Posted September 9, 2020 Author Share Posted September 9, 2020 (edited) New to me (Used) cleaned up, Top Feed fuel lines and Blue top feed injectors attached to the ported TGV's in their new home with new OEM gaskets. I cut off the alignment rails on the sides of the blue top-feed injectors and reused the factory side feed plugs.They clipped right in after the mod sweet! Thanks Marvick08GT! Also, I ordered a new turbo inlet (Cobb) but it looks like they are on backorder Edited September 9, 2020 by ViscousSquirrel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ViscousSquirrel Posted September 9, 2020 Author Share Posted September 9, 2020 So I'm poking around on heatsheildproducts.com and they have a number of different solutions for protection of the hoses . Being a novice on the topic which of them have you used or recommend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted September 9, 2020 Share Posted September 9, 2020 their product line is overwhelming. I bought a basalt wrap for the up pipe, guaranteed to not glassify at 1800 degrees continuous. Also a sheet of heat shielding to protect the power steering lines. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted September 9, 2020 Share Posted September 9, 2020 (edited) Franskster (sp) posted pics from a torture test on their built car running headers. The pictures are from underneath the car. You can see the color change on the exhaust system as it heats up. At the epic moment, the entire system is dark orange. You need to identify which problems you are trying to solve. Keeping heat in the exhaust or heat off other components. Using a flir or similar heat camera device will show heat levels best. I used an infrared thermometer to test my hot spots, super tedious and prone to error. Buying the racewagon showed me real world results. Hence the oem exhaust shielding is better than the wraps. Can you improve on it, yes. Sgt.Gator uses their oil filter heat shield on his sti racecar and has been happy with the results. I believe he wrapped his fuel lines in the heat resistant tubes The oem metal shielding around the exhaust does a much better job than wrapping the pipes in heat shielding. I bought this: HD Lava Shield - https://www.heatshieldproducts.com/hd-lava-shield Looks like there's an improvement on the Lava Shield called Cobra Shield. Its chemical & weather resistant so would work better on the lower PS hoses. ymmv. https://www.heatshieldproducts.com/hd-cobra-shield Velcro hose sleeves. Continuous is 1100 degrees so you'll have to be careful how close it is to the turbo or exhaust. https://www.heatshieldproducts.com/hd-velcro-thermaflect-sleeve I've had this queued in my cart but never bought it. Stealth Turbo Shield - https://www.heatshieldproducts.com/stealth-turbo-shield Even my street car uses a metal heat shield. The metal shield wasn't super awesome at reducing heat, but it was better than cooking my turbo. Racewagon had a [nited manufacturer] 's turbo wrap and it fell apart when I took it off (it was so fried, it crumbled at a touch). ymmv. This product, assuming its fitted right, will help. Other factors come into play though and should be considered. The down pipe gets very hot. Keeping the heat in the pipe might help with dreaded passenger cv boot failure. This heat shield should help - https://www.heatshieldproducts.com/heatshield-armor For something odd, this is a must have in your toolbox especially if you goto the track. https://www.heatshieldproducts.com/catalog/product/view/id/1117/s/nomar/ Note: as these are professional heat shielding products, it doesn't come in a shiny box. Nor is it really user friendly. The basalt based products require a mask, and suggest face & body coverings. I used a full face mask (like this https://www.amazon.com/3M-7162-Full-Facepiece-Spray-Respirator/dp/B0002STR86/ref=mp_s_a_1_17?dchild=1&keywords=3m+full+face+respirator&qid=1599662809&sr=8-17) and mechanics overalls and gloves. I'd rather roll in loose fiberglass insulation naked than do that again. Maybe I should have followed the ppe instructions exactly. ymmv. Edited September 9, 2020 by boxkita Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chocoholic005 Posted September 9, 2020 Share Posted September 9, 2020 Also, I ordered a new turbo inlet (Cobb) but it looks like they are on backorder I'd cancel that order and get a Perrin instead; Cobb's is very difficult to install in comparison. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ViscousSquirrel Posted September 9, 2020 Author Share Posted September 9, 2020 Franskster (sp) posted pics from a torture test on their built car running headers. The pictures are from underneath the car. You can see the color change on the exhaust system as it heats up. At the epic moment, the entire system is dark orange. You need to identify which problems you are trying to solve. Keeping heat in the exhaust or heat off other components. Using a flir or similar heat camera device will show heat levels best. I used an infrared thermometer to test my hot spots, super tedious and prone to error. Buying the racewagon showed me real world results. Hence the oem exhaust shielding is better than the wraps. Can you improve on it, yes. Sgt.Gator uses their oil filter heat shield on his sti racecar and has been happy with the results. I believe he wrapped his fuel lines in the heat resistant tubes The oem metal shielding around the exhaust does a much better job than wrapping the pipes in heat shielding. I bought this: HD Lava Shield - https://www.heatshieldproducts.com/hd-lava-shield Looks like there's an improvement on the Lava Shield called Cobra Shield. Its chemical & weather resistant so would work better on the lower PS hoses. ymmv. https://www.heatshieldproducts.com/hd-cobra-shield Velcro hose sleeves. Continuous is 1100 degrees so you'll have to be careful how close it is to the turbo or exhaust. https://www.heatshieldproducts.com/hd-velcro-thermaflect-sleeve I've had this queued in my cart but never bought it. Stealth Turbo Shield - https://www.heatshieldproducts.com/stealth-turbo-shield Even my street car uses a metal heat shield. The metal shield wasn't super awesome at reducing heat, but it was better than cooking my turbo. Racewagon had a [nited manufacturer] 's turbo wrap and it fell apart when I took it off (it was so fried, it crumbled at a touch). ymmv. This product, assuming its fitted right, will help. Other factors come into play though and should be considered. The down pipe gets very hot. Keeping the heat in the pipe might help with dreaded passenger cv boot failure. This heat shield should help - https://www.heatshieldproducts.com/heatshield-armor For something odd, this is a must have in your toolbox especially if you goto the track. https://www.heatshieldproducts.com/catalog/product/view/id/1117/s/nomar/ Note: as these are professional heat shielding products, it doesn't come in a shiny box. Nor is it really user friendly. The basalt based products require a mask, and suggest face & body coverings. I used a full face mask (like this https://www.amazon.com/3M-7162-Full-Facepiece-Spray-Respirator/dp/B0002STR86/ref=mp_s_a_1_17?dchild=1&keywords=3m+full+face+respirator&qid=1599662809&sr=8-17) and mechanics overalls and gloves. I'd rather roll in loose fiberglass insulation naked than do that again. Maybe I should have followed the ppe instructions exactly. ymmv. That might be the most useful detailed response I have ever had ever for basically anything. I want to take the time to thank you properly for imparting your knowledge. I think given the information here I will avoid the Basalt based products like the plague. I have no desire to deal with any more of those kinds of hazards ever again in my life. We don't have a race track here so unfortunately I haven't been able to race car in 5-6 years. So this is a street only car for the time being but it's hot here, really hot, all year round and rubber tends to just dry up and fall apart so I think I'll take oyur advice and grab these products and see how they work out. "HD Lava Shield - https://www.heatshieldproducts.com/hd-lava-shield Looks like there's an improvement on the Lava Shield called Cobra Shield. Its chemical & weather resistant so would work better on the lower PS hoses. ymmv. https://www.heatshieldproducts.com/hd-cobra-shield" "Velcro hose sleeves. Continuous is 1100 degrees so you'll have to be careful how close it is to the turbo or exhaust. https://www.heatshieldproducts.com/hd-velcro-thermaflect-sleeve" How hot is the turbo actually running? I was just going to keep the metal heat shields. I wonder if I ran a duct directly to the turbo, or rotate it away from the engine or both if that would help. Mainly I just want the rubber to last more than 5 years and keep all the plastic from degrading. SO keeping the turbo heat either, IN, or cooling it actively while shielding the rubber hoses is my goal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ViscousSquirrel Posted September 9, 2020 Author Share Posted September 9, 2020 I'd cancel that order and get a Perrin instead; Cobb's is very difficult to install in comparison. That's funny my first thought was Perrin but I keep hearing Cobb. To each their own I guess. I really did not enjoy installing the Perrin the last time around. This time around the intake won't be in the car so it should be pretty easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted September 9, 2020 Share Posted September 9, 2020 You're welcome . Turbos can reach 1800 degrees when being properly abused. 1100-1400 seems typical. You want all the heat from the exhaust to stay in the exhaust until the end of the down pipe, as that's your power. So keeping it where it needs to be is good. The basalt based solutions are so good you need to leave a portion of the pipe open so the metal can expand. The dei stuff just crystalizes. To keep the rubber & plastic in shape means not letting them dry out. A dd that sees 20-40 minute trips that are not stop and go will last much longer than a garage queen. Heat does damage them but it's typically not the air temp. Sunbelt states don't count, 121 degrees is extreme operating conditions for any manufacturer. Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chocoholic005 Posted September 10, 2020 Share Posted September 10, 2020 That's funny my first thought was Perrin but I keep hearing Cobb. To each their own I guess. I really did not enjoy installing the Perrin the last time around. This time around the intake won't be in the car so it should be pretty easy. The newer Perrin inlet has a plug/play mount for the crank case vent sensor, and the connectors for vacuum hoses are more logically placed. The cobb inlet requires you to run a supplied hose to the front of the inlet and jam it through a crowded opening under the intake manifold. It's much more difficult even with the engine on a stand. https://www.perrin.com/shop/air-induction/wrx-sti-turbo-inlet-hose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted September 10, 2020 Share Posted September 10, 2020 I vote you delete some of the hoses altogether and put plugs on the inlet for fewer hose messes. Example, delete the purge solenoid. I currently only have PCV, head breathers and wastegate reference on my Perrin inlet. Far easier to deal with. I should note that I run a Perrin aos as well. The plugs are made by Eldon James and can be found online easily. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017UXATNM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YWNwFbTPJ71HS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ViscousSquirrel Posted September 10, 2020 Author Share Posted September 10, 2020 Thanks UPS! The second head showed up yesterday and it looked like they had dropped it down a flight of stairs. I opened the box and found some damage to the head. UPS drivers response "Sorry Brah my bad". So upon further examination int he garage i could see that the corner of the mating surface of the head had been smushed up an 1/8in into the head gasket mating area. Also, one of the drift pins for the intake had been mangled and the hole in the head ovaled. one of the bolt holes was also slightly mushroomed as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ViscousSquirrel Posted September 10, 2020 Author Share Posted September 10, 2020 After some careful consideration (several beers) I decided that it would be a great idea to block sand it down and see how it came out. Worst case scenario it ends up at the machine shop I was going to have to take it to anyway. The results were pretty good. I spent quite a while with a bloc and some 600 grit. Yes I could have done it faster with a lower grit but I also have a very large chance of messing it up if i didn't use a high grit and take my time. I think it came out quite well as it the straight edge tells a story of indistinguishable flatness. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ViscousSquirrel Posted September 10, 2020 Author Share Posted September 10, 2020 (edited) ARP Head studs installed, new factory head gaskets and the heads were torqued to perfection. And I sayith, let there be longblock! and there was Longblock. There was much rejoicing in the land of Wife ("Great, now get that pile out of my garage stall") Little did the kingdom of wife know that I am still waiting on several hoses and associated "odds and ends" that wont be here until late September. Edited September 10, 2020 by ViscousSquirrel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 10, 2020 Share Posted September 10, 2020 Good progress. Is that dowel pin going to be a issue ? Looks like, no. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ViscousSquirrel Posted September 10, 2020 Author Share Posted September 10, 2020 Good progress. Is that dowel pin going to be a issue ? Looks like, no. Thanks, no I don't think it will be an issue, it's one of the pins that holds the intake in place so I'll just try to round the hole back out a bit and insert another pin. I might just block sand it flat and leave it as it isn't necessary. On the other hand it wasn't necessary for UPS to play soccer with it either but such is life. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ViscousSquirrel Posted September 10, 2020 Author Share Posted September 10, 2020 I'm looking at these oil feed lines... any reason I should use the turbo feed bolt with the extremely restrictive hole vs the stock one with the larger hole and the banjo filter removed? https://www.iagperformance.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=IAG%2DENG%2D2070 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted September 10, 2020 Share Posted September 10, 2020 That looks like the kit you want if your replacing the OEM set up. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ViscousSquirrel Posted September 11, 2020 Author Share Posted September 11, 2020 That looks like the kit you want if your replacing the OEM set up. I picked it up today, thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ViscousSquirrel Posted September 12, 2020 Author Share Posted September 12, 2020 Well, I have run into an issue. The heads I have are D25 heads (replacing the b25 heads I had stock). I am aware that there will be a slight bump in compression ratio,m which doesn’t concern me. What does concern me is that I went to plug my AVCS oil control valve into the head on the drivers side and the shaft of the control valve wouldn’t slide into the head, it was too fat. The passenger side head had no such issue however. On FASTWRX.com they note that the part number is different for the d25 head after 2011. These are off a 2014 I believe. The drivers and passenger OCVs are the same part number are they not? It looks like the plug is different between the old d25/b25 and the newer d25 as well? https://www.fastwrx.com/products/subaru-oem-oil-control-valve-ocv-for-avcs Does anyone have any ideas or experience with this I am at a loss. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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