Tehnation Posted July 26, 2020 Share Posted July 26, 2020 So found coolant in my interior, assume the heater core is leaking.... after suffering to get the dash out and cracking my windshield in the process it seems I opened an entirely new can of worms. Anyone know how to get the heater core out of this contraption? I'm just going to take a boat load of pictures while I'm doing this. I don't have any real steps or methods, I'm just pulling crap apart until I get to what I want. The main beam has to come out, so the steering wheel has to be dropped etc. I think I got all the pictures of the parts and bolts that need to be removed to get the bar out. Working on getting that out next. I have a bunch of pictures of the stuff needed to get the dashboard out. You have to remove the pillar pieces, the end caps, the radio, the cubby, the glovebox and piece attached to it, the driver side underside plastic thing with the obd port. The center console piece has 3 screws in the back below the cubby which you could disconnect, I didn't because I hate screwing into things blindly, if you keep it attached make sure you disconnect all the wires attached to it, there are 2 on drivers side and 1 on passenger side I believe. Also remove the metal plate cover thats below the steering 1 bolt on each side. Then you can get to the dashboard screws and bolts. I have some pictures of the wires on passenger side that need to be disconnected so the dash can come out, be wary of the one for the security light in the top right corner of passenger side of dash, you have to reach in there and be careful not to break the wire. You have to remove the instrument cluster only 3 screws, one on top (use a stubby) 2 on the bottom which are kinda hard, but in hindsight if you drop the steering wheel you can get them easier otherwise you need a long screwdriver, after that you can get to the screws behind it, make sure you disconnect the cluster and wire holding pegs need to come out as well. You have to remove the cubby, there are some screws behind that. 2 bolts underneath the dash going up into the dash from the bottom behind the glovebox, so that's gotta go as well to get to the 2 bolts. There are 2 screws on both ends behind the end caps that need to come out. Thats what I have so far. Hopefully my gibberish and pics can help someone out. For the TSB post #5 top 2 pics, those nubs on the backside of the dash need to be wrapped in some tape or something to stop the rattle apparently. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted July 26, 2020 Author Share Posted July 26, 2020 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted July 26, 2020 Author Share Posted July 26, 2020 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted July 26, 2020 Author Share Posted July 26, 2020 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted July 26, 2020 Author Share Posted July 26, 2020 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted July 26, 2020 Author Share Posted July 26, 2020 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted July 26, 2020 Author Share Posted July 26, 2020 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diavolo Posted July 27, 2020 Share Posted July 27, 2020 memories. haha! been there done that, I saw you posted in the thread i made 5 years ago when I changed my heater core. I said it there too, but I will repeat it here for anyone searching in the future: You dont have to evacuate your AC. Theres a bracket in the engine bay you can unbolt thats holding the lines. With it loose it will give you enough wiggle room to get the heater core out. I wish I could provide more specifics but it was so long ago I dont remember, and I no longer own the car to reference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 27, 2020 Share Posted July 27, 2020 Can you take a picture of where the dash mounts by the bottom of the passenger side "A" pillar so may be we have a good idea of how to fix the dash rattle in that area when its cold outside ? The one from the drivers side, behind the gauge cluster I fix by stuffing some 1/8" foam down there. Thanks. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaylew Posted July 27, 2020 Share Posted July 27, 2020 Another while you are in there...replace the A/C actuators. At a minimum replace the drivers temp blend and maybe the mode actuator. the rest are easy to get to with dash still in https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/sound-inside-dash-turn-off-car-190728p8.html Wagon is LIFE! - 265,000 miles and climbing Unofficial Build (Restoration) Thread Steering Rack Rebuild Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted July 27, 2020 Author Share Posted July 27, 2020 (edited) Can you take a picture of where the dash mounts by the bottom of the passenger side "A" pillar so may be we have a good idea of how to fix the dash rattle in that area when its cold outside ? The one from the drivers side, behind the gauge cluster I fix by stuffing some 1/8" foam down there. Thanks. I can take a picture but the dash is completely out, would it be better with the dash in? Had to work last night, will probably continue this project tomorrow morning. Edited July 27, 2020 by Tehnation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted July 27, 2020 Author Share Posted July 27, 2020 where is the rattle supposed to be exactly? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackobxt Posted July 27, 2020 Share Posted July 27, 2020 Nice! Good pictures, I’ve never pulled a dash in one of these but I suspect I’ll have to this fall when the temps aren’t effected by satan himself. I have a slow ac leak that the dye isn’t showing up anywhere and I suspect the evaporator, will definitely be referencing these photos! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted July 27, 2020 Share Posted July 27, 2020 where is the rattle supposed to be exactly? Right side of the dash, by the air vent on the right end of the dash. It sounds like its below the A pillar cover about 2" down and forward a bit. So a picture of that area would be good. Thanks, 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted July 27, 2020 Author Share Posted July 27, 2020 Let me know if this is what you're talking about. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted July 27, 2020 Author Share Posted July 27, 2020 (edited) underside of dash and some part numbers, the white nubs need to be wrapped to eliminate the rattle i believe. Edited July 27, 2020 by Tehnation Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted July 27, 2020 Author Share Posted July 27, 2020 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted July 27, 2020 Author Share Posted July 27, 2020 garage is kinda dark, will get more pics when i reinstall the dash and its outside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaylew Posted July 27, 2020 Share Posted July 27, 2020 Thank you for posting all these pictures. I am going to have to remove mine to replace the A/C temp blend actuator on the driver's side in addition to a few 'while i'm in there' things Wagon is LIFE! - 265,000 miles and climbing Unofficial Build (Restoration) Thread Steering Rack Rebuild Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted July 27, 2020 Author Share Posted July 27, 2020 For the ac, it may be a bit harder, not sure where the evaporator is. Maybe I should change it while i'm in there. I will take as many pictures as i can! What are these things you said I should change? I need to check mine. Any part numbers? https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2005_Legacy-25L-TURBO-5MT-4WD-GT-Limited-Sedan/_54104_6025983/HEATER-SYSTEM-HEATER-UNIT--COOLING-UNIT/B13-720-02.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaylew Posted July 28, 2020 Share Posted July 28, 2020 (edited) Check the link in my post #10. When the actuators go bad it creates a drip coffee percolating noise. This is assuming you have the auto dual climate AC. The part numbers are there. Drivers side temp actuator is the only one on the drivers side and most difficult to get to. The mode actuator is the second hardest. The last two are easy even with the dash in. The dryer would be interesting if you find its location. Or is it integrated in the heat exchanger? Edited July 28, 2020 by jaylew Wagon is LIFE! - 265,000 miles and climbing Unofficial Build (Restoration) Thread Steering Rack Rebuild Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted July 28, 2020 Author Share Posted July 28, 2020 https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5890110&postcount=118 2 and 7? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaylew Posted July 28, 2020 Share Posted July 28, 2020 Post #116 https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/sound-inside-dash-turn-off-car-190728p8.html Motor-mix-driver 72131AG12A ---- 05 (no longer available) 72131AG27A ---- 05-09 Motor-mix-passenger 72131AG11A ----- 05 72131AG26A ----- 05-09 Motor-mode-select 72131AG09A ---- 05 72131AG24A ---- 05-09 Motor-recirculate 72131AG08A ---- 05 72131AG23A ---- 05-09 Wagon is LIFE! - 265,000 miles and climbing Unofficial Build (Restoration) Thread Steering Rack Rebuild Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted July 28, 2020 Author Share Posted July 28, 2020 memories. haha! been there done that, I saw you posted in the thread i made 5 years ago when I changed my heater core. I said it there too, but I will repeat it here for anyone searching in the future: You dont have to evacuate your AC. Theres a bracket in the engine bay you can unbolt thats holding the lines. With it loose it will give you enough wiggle room to get the heater core out. I wish I could provide more specifics but it was so long ago I dont remember, and I no longer own the car to reference. I unbolted that bolt on the ac lines in the engine bay, as well as a screw and 2 nuts inside the car holding the main unit in, but it just wiggles, I can't get this thing to move, any insight you can remember? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tehnation Posted July 28, 2020 Author Share Posted July 28, 2020 The following pictures may not be appropriate for younger viewers and not for the faint of heart.... lol , this looks like a murder scene lol poor car..... oh boy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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