Falcor Posted June 8, 2020 Share Posted June 8, 2020 Depending on the condition of the isolators they may need replaced. I replaced the rear ones since I bought the wrong part for the front (Outback and Legacy are different there) but they would have been fine as is. The reused fronts were fine. Don’t lose the washer the front top hat rides on. I replaced mine, but the original was reusable. New top hats are a good idea especially on the front. In the rear not as much, but the rubber in mine were a bit soft. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
04rex Posted June 8, 2020 Author Share Posted June 8, 2020 (edited) Well I’m not even planning on taking apart the old ones. I am planning on taking them out and replacing them completely. Besides the bolts of course. Just the entire assembly. So I would need all those parts then it looks like. Actually I might just replace the springs and shocks and just reuse everything else. It starts to add up quick replacing all these smaller parts. Edited June 8, 2020 by 04rex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Falcor Posted June 8, 2020 Share Posted June 8, 2020 It goes much quicker if you have the new struts already assembled, but you can save some money by reusing everything but the tophats. It just takes some elbow grease, a spring compressor, and pass through socket set. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
04rex Posted June 9, 2020 Author Share Posted June 9, 2020 Thank you for your help and advice. I ordered the kybs with top hats from rock auto. Now onto the springs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
04rex Posted June 9, 2020 Author Share Posted June 9, 2020 pretty standard installation as far as struts go - as you found out, spring compressors are necessary - also, the fronts use an eccentric bolt as the upper bolt, so mark the bolts radial position before removing the fronts, and transfer the mark to the new struts so you get them more or less where they need to be - then you'll need an alignment. Hi, can I get a bit more clarification on the eccentric bolt? Is there like an installation or take apart and rebuild of the strut that shows this information? Or even a video? I am planning on hopefully doing the install next week. A tutorial would go a long way on making it faster. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stewdogg Posted June 9, 2020 Share Posted June 9, 2020 Hi, can I get a bit more clarification on the eccentric bolt? Is there like an installation or take apart and rebuild of the strut that shows this information? Or even a video? I am planning on hopefully doing the install next week. A tutorial would go a long way on making it faster. Dr D123 already linked you to the 5th gen koni thread and he also linked the walk through for the strut rebuild from a 4th gen in the first couple posts of this thread. That 4th gen thread is what I used for a reference while I built mine. The eccentric bolt is what holds the camber for the top part of the front suspension. The lower control arm front and rear bushings are what control the bottom camber in the car. If you're pulling the front struts out you need to mark the location of the top bolt of the two bolts on the bottom of the strut. The bottom bolt doesn't have any adjustment to it, so you can take it out without marking it. Mark it by hitting with a chisel and get a mark on the bolt and strut to be able to line up that same location when you reassemble. How much wrenching experience do you have? Cutting those struts takes a little faith in your abilities for sure, but if you're tenacious enough you will be just fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
04rex Posted June 9, 2020 Author Share Posted June 9, 2020 Dr D123 already linked you to the 5th gen koni thread and he also linked the walk through for the strut rebuild from a 4th gen in the first couple posts of this thread. That 4th gen thread is what I used for a reference while I built mine. The eccentric bolt is what holds the camber for the top part of the front suspension. The lower control arm front and rear bushings are what control the bottom camber in the car. If you're pulling the front struts out you need to mark the location of the top bolt of the two bolts on the bottom of the strut. The bottom bolt doesn't have any adjustment to it, so you can take it out without marking it. Mark it by hitting with a chisel and get a mark on the bolt and strut to be able to line up that same location when you reassemble. How much wrenching experience do you have? Cutting those struts takes a little faith in your abilities for sure, but if you're tenacious enough you will be just fine. Geez I didn't even realize that. I just remember him mentioning it then went into the thread to ask. Thanks for letting me know. Ok so it is the top bolt. I will mark it. I did my suspension on my 2004 WRX years ago. I don't remember marking anything when I did it and the suspension and alignment came out fine. Maybe it was luck?? I will be doing straight KYBs and not the Konis, so no cutting or anything. I don't trust myself enough to do all of that lol. Thanks for your help. I will go through those guides. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Falcor Posted June 10, 2020 Share Posted June 10, 2020 I just used a silver sharpie to outline where the original strut sat. Didn’t think of marking the bolt. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stewdogg Posted June 10, 2020 Share Posted June 10, 2020 As long as it works! I don't use sharpie because it's too easy for me to wipe off and lose my mark. If i don't use a punch/chisel I use a paint pen/marker because even if I wipe it off there will still be something there. I suppose if you are replacing the strut you can mark the bolt at 9 o clock and then mark the knuckle as well. Either way, as long as you know the way these things work together, you can come up with a way that works for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Falcor Posted June 10, 2020 Share Posted June 10, 2020 I was kinda surprised that it drove straight. Took it to get the alignment the next day and felt much better after that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
04rex Posted July 28, 2020 Author Share Posted July 28, 2020 Hey guys, quick question. I am removing the rear suspension and I am having trouble. The passenger side bolt came out, it took a while with a lot of PB Blaster but it came out. The driver side though seems stuck. I sprayed an sprayed but the nut stops spinning. It’s about halfway out. I tried tightening a bit then loosening again but it doesn’t seem to go further. I am gonna try again with the PB Blaster, but if that doesn’t work I was thinking I’d using a torch. How much time do I need to wait for before I take a torch to it? Do I have to clean it off or anything before? (I am referring to the fact that I sprayed PB Blaster on it) Any help, tips or tricks are appreciated. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted July 28, 2020 Share Posted July 28, 2020 Hey guys, quick question. I am removing the rear suspension and I am having trouble. The passenger side bolt came out, it took a while with a lot of PB Blaster but it came out. The driver side though seems stuck. I sprayed an sprayed but the nut stops spinning. It’s about halfway out. I tried tightening a bit then loosening again but it doesn’t seem to go further. I am gonna try again with the PB Blaster, but if that doesn’t work I was thinking I’d using a torch. How much time do I need to wait for before I take a torch to it? Do I have to clean it off or anything before? (I am referring to the fact that I sprayed PB Blaster on it) Any help, tips or tricks are appreciated. Thanks Which bolt are you trying to remove? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
04rex Posted July 28, 2020 Author Share Posted July 28, 2020 Which bolt are you trying to remove? The one at the bottom of the rear driver side strut. The nut is getting stuck, doesn't move forward after a certain point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted July 28, 2020 Share Posted July 28, 2020 The one at the bottom of the rear driver side strut. The nut is getting stuck, doesn't move forward after a certain point. I assume the threads are ruined. I am not sure a torch will help if the thread are ruins. You should be able to get a saws all on that bolt. If you are lower the car, it will give you a good excuse to get a set of adjustable rear lower control arms. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrD123 Posted July 29, 2020 Share Posted July 29, 2020 The one at the bottom of the rear driver side strut. The nut is getting stuck, doesn't move forward after a certain point. Use a nut splitter to remove the nut, or a hack saw to cut the bolt (if you have room) - replace them both. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
04rex Posted July 29, 2020 Author Share Posted July 29, 2020 I assume the threads are ruined. I am not sure a torch will help if the thread are ruins. You should be able to get a saws all on that bolt. If you are lower the car, it will give you a good excuse to get a set of adjustable rear lower control arms. The threads look fine to me. It just doesn't want to move for some reason. Use a nut splitter to remove the nut, or a hack saw to cut the bolt (if you have room) - replace them both. I have thought about that actually. I don;' think there is enough room for the hack saw. I have never heard of a nut splitter. I pulled out the passenger side strut (the one I was able to get the nut loose on) but man was it hard to pull out. I thought once I unscrewed the nuts in the trunk the suspension would fall allowing me to take it out, but it didn't fall at all. I had to push down on the brakes and force it out. I even used spring compressors to help get it out. Is there an easier way?? It seemed way to hard. if I didn't have the spring compressors, it wasn't going to come out at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coco26 Posted July 29, 2020 Share Posted July 29, 2020 I think most people unbolt the control arm at one of the ends to swing it completely out of the way. I would personally unbolt the outboard end. When reinstalling, work your way outward, starting with bolting the sway bar (if needed), then the strut, then the hub. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
04rex Posted July 29, 2020 Author Share Posted July 29, 2020 I think most people unbolt the control arm at one of the ends to swing it completely out of the way. I would personally unbolt the outboard end. When reinstalling, work your way outward, starting with bolting the sway bar (if needed), then the strut, then the hub. I actually thought about doing that. I took the caliper off and the rotor to make it a bit easier but it was still a pain. I might do that for the other side (if i get it loose) and for reinstallation. Is it hard to reinstall or anything? Anything extra to know? I think if I remember correctly, the sway bar has a bolt (or is connected) directly behind the strut so I might have to take that out as well to make it easier. I didn't want to disconnect too much, but it looks like I may have to. I will just unbolt things until it works I guess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted July 29, 2020 Share Posted July 29, 2020 Unbolt the entire lower arm, it will make you life easier to install as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dudemonster Posted July 29, 2020 Share Posted July 29, 2020 ^^ This. So much easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrD123 Posted July 30, 2020 Share Posted July 30, 2020 The threads look fine to me. It just doesn't want to move for some reason.The damaged threads are probably obscured by the nut I have thought about that actually. I don;' think there is enough room for the hack saw. I have never heard of a nut splitter.you can get them pretty much at any parts store - just google nut splitter - there are many different designs - they all essentially push a wedge into the nut from the side that eventually cracks/splits it. I pulled out the passenger side strut (the one I was able to get the nut loose on) but man was it hard to pull out. I thought once I unscrewed the nuts in the trunk the suspension would fall allowing me to take it out, but it didn't fall at all. I had to push down on the brakes and force it out. I even used spring compressors to help get it out. Is there an easier way?? It seemed way to hard. if I didn't have the spring compressors, it wasn't going to come out at all.That's weird - when I replaced my rears while doing Koni's, they came right out. undo the two nuts at the top, undo the bolt and the bottom, and slide them out - I may have pulled down on the arm a little, but I don't recall any drama. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cww516 Posted July 30, 2020 Share Posted July 30, 2020 I remember having a hard time getting those lower pivot nuts off, but that was because my electric impact wrench wasn't up to the task. More wrench and they came right off. Can you still spin the nut back down tight? That'd give you a better look at whether the threads on the bolt are borked, or if there's just gunk or corrosion in there holding you back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
04rex Posted July 31, 2020 Author Share Posted July 31, 2020 The damaged threads are probably obscured by the nut you can get them pretty much at any parts store - just google nut splitter - there are many different designs - they all essentially push a wedge into the nut from the side that eventually cracks/splits it. That's weird - when I replaced my rears while doing Koni's, they came right out. undo the two nuts at the top, undo the bolt and the bottom, and slide them out - I may have pulled down on the arm a little, but I don't recall any drama. Yes they probably are. It can spin back, albeit slowly, but it can still go back. It just stops at a certain point to come out. I will definitely go that route. A couple bucks for a nut splitter and a new bolt and nut is worth compared to the hassle of trying to save it. That is what I thought and hoped would happen for me, but nope. Once i get the other side out, I hope it is easier. I remember having a hard time getting those lower pivot nuts off, but that was because my electric impact wrench wasn't up to the task. More wrench and they came right off. Can you still spin the nut back down tight? That'd give you a better look at whether the threads on the bolt are borked, or if there's just gunk or corrosion in there holding you back. Yeah I can spin it back, but at this point ill just break it and get a new one. Not worth all this hassle for a couple of bucks. Thanks for everyone's replies! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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