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Regarding Hood Dampers.. Any interest in...


jsalicru

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I'm curious as to how this affects the closing of the hood. I find that it is better to drop my hood shut from about a 4" gap rather than let the hood touch and then push on it to close.

 

Will the installation of these dampers make it impossible to drop-close the hood? I think this would be the deal breaker if I had to palm and smash on my hood to get it to latch.

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I'm curious as to how this affects the closing of the hood. I find that it is better to drop my hood shut from about a 4" gap rather than let the hood touch and then push on it to close.

 

Will the installation of these dampers make it impossible to drop-close the hood? I think this would be the deal breaker if I had to palm and smash on my hood to get it to latch.

 

It doesn't affect it at all if you close it for a 4" gap. It might have to be a 5" gap instead... but definetly not a touch and push situation.

 

I am starting a new thread answering some of these questions, etc...

"some say, his arms are made of coiled adamantium fibers. And that he tops his cereal with nuts and bolts. All we know is, he's called the Jose."
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Here's pictures for BOXRPWR's car.

 

http://homepage.mac.com/jsalicru/.Pictures/Photo%20Album%20Pictures/Legacy%20Dampers/Install/IMG_2331%20(Large).JPG

http://homepage.mac.com/jsalicru/.Pictures/Photo%20Album%20Pictures/Legacy%20Dampers/Install/IMG_2329%20(Large).JPG

"some say, his arms are made of coiled adamantium fibers. And that he tops his cereal with nuts and bolts. All we know is, he's called the Jose."
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Im gonna add instructions on removing the hood prop. I have pictures of that process too.

 

 

For those looking at the thread for the 1st time, or interested in all the information on the dampers, please see first post. Thank you.

"some say, his arms are made of coiled adamantium fibers. And that he tops his cereal with nuts and bolts. All we know is, he's called the Jose."
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stifan@mac.com is the Paypal address..

 

you really don't need a template. the lower joint bolt can just be eye-balled to the center of the 3rd cutout in the sides of the fender. The damper length adjusts to wherever the hard point is. You'd have to miss it by more than an inch to screw up. and if you do....just remove it and do it right.

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maybe edit the paypal address into post #1?

 

Thanks for the info Kevin - I guess I was concerned by this:

 

The positioning of these two holes is critical to ensure proper clearance when opening and closing the hood.

 

Guess it's hard to screw it up then :lol:

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Guess it's hard to screw it up then :lol:

 

 

The hardest part about lining it all up is getting the lateral position correct. It has to be as close to the ledge as possible. Frankly, closer to the ledge than even the one in the how-to picture would be better. This is especially necesary with the carbon fiber units.

"some say, his arms are made of coiled adamantium fibers. And that he tops his cereal with nuts and bolts. All we know is, he's called the Jose."
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so, lay it in place to make sure there is clearance for the strut body, then mark the hole?

 

 

actually, a good idea would be to use the washer as a template... try to get it a little closer to the edge compared to the washer pictured in my how-to and mark the spot.

 

When I get another install, I will take better pictures of that area in the process and edit the how-to with those.

 

Hopefully the car won't be black ;)

"some say, his arms are made of coiled adamantium fibers. And that he tops his cereal with nuts and bolts. All we know is, he's called the Jose."
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