1of48 Posted November 6, 2019 Share Posted November 6, 2019 I recently bought a 09 Spec B and was wondering why it has these badges on A & C pillars? I looked through Spec B photo threads and haven't seen another with them. Perhaps it's common to de-badge them. My intercooler looks a little different as well. Wondering what I got myself into. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted November 6, 2019 Share Posted November 6, 2019 Idk how to link to single posts. Last page of this thread if it doesn't take you there. Two pics of lgt engine bays. Black intercooler is a spec b with grimmspeed intercooler. You've got something else other than OE unless it's a wrx intercooler. WRX intake manifold for sure. Kinda funny to see that with stock turbo inlet. I think that's a BOV instead of the stock valve. From a quick glance everything else looks stop. What turbo is on it? Is it tuned? Did it come with an AP? I'm pretty sure those badges are just added on ones, not removed. Someone wanted an STI me thinks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1of48 Posted November 6, 2019 Author Share Posted November 6, 2019 (edited) Ok so I'm a noob and more of a motorcycle guy, Subaru's are my winter vehicles. I bought the car off a small dealership specializing in imports who got it from a Hyundai dealership who picked it up on a trade so no information from the original owner. The guy I bought it from literally had time to unload it, put in on the hoist, give it a safety inspection and then I showed up, test drove and bought it. He was told everything on it worked. It's lowered with a mechanical height adjustment. I got it for peanuts, less then most regular 09 Legacy sell for and almost a third what a 09 WRX STI goes for. Mechanically it seems fine. I am going to raise it up as much as I can because it's way too low and bottoms out on my driveway. It's fast as hell and that's really all I know. Is there a spot on the turbos where there's typically markings or how would I tell which one it has? How would I know if it has a tune or not? The I, S & S# modes all work. AP as in AccessPort, I don't believe so, certainly no keypad. There is an aftermarket starter/alarm, front and rear cameras and a strange button on the dash but that's all I've noticed and I haven't figured out how to get any of them working. The Nav screen doesn't work either but the buttons aren't secure so it's like someone was in the dash and didn't put it back together properly. I haven't even had time to check fuses or anything. I'm hoping it's just something simple. Do command starters for manuals typically let you remove the keys and leave the car running? Mine stays running and shuts off if I hit the brakes or walk a few feet away with the keys. If I press the start button it flashes orange a few times then red and beeps but doesn't start the car. I have the parking brake on and it out of gear but still doesn't do anything. Edited November 6, 2019 by 1of48 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Holla Posted November 6, 2019 Share Posted November 6, 2019 Tough to tell but it looks like you at least have an STi intake manifold. All the lgt and spec B’s had plastic intake manifolds. It’s possible someone swapped in an entire STi longblock or someone did a intake manifold swap. Someone added the badges, they’re not stock and they don’t really mean anything. I’d do a compression and leak down on the motor and make sure it’s tuned. There’s a decent chance something was headed south and the PO traded it in while it was still running. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted November 6, 2019 Share Posted November 6, 2019 Well sounds like you may have a headache or gotten a steal. It's hard to say. I'm not sure if there's an airflow difference on the sti manifolds but if they did a full engine swap with a long block that would make some sense. Leakdown and compression test as said to make sure engine is OK. Stay out of boost until after that. Then I'd take a look to see what turbo you have. You'd need to pull the turbo inlet to see the markings but you want to drop the downpipe and check for shaft play on it anyway. The concern is that these cars blow turbos, which sends metal into the engine. People swap on a used turbo and then blow the engine because contamination is still there. Then they get an sti long block (sort of an odd thing honestly) and slap it all together with the wrong turbo and it does weird things and blows everything up again. Weird engine (maybe, technically the short block is the same not a huge issue) weird wiring weird buttons lowered. Sounds like a car I'd see back home where someone has slapped it together. Turbo shaft play, leak down and compression. Then if you can get it tuned it should be great. If you're not willing to do those things, it'll almost certainly blow up. In that case sell it now. If the interior is good people will buy the part out and the transmission and rear diff. Even if it blows up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted November 6, 2019 Share Posted November 6, 2019 Not sure on the starters. To check for a tune best option would be a tactrix. Maybe someone local has one. But I doubt it has a tune. Buying an sti long block with all the goodies attached and lowering it sounds like something you'd do to a civic. B16 swap and run it. That's gonna be my guess. But that doesn't mean it can't be a great car. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1of48 Posted November 6, 2019 Author Share Posted November 6, 2019 It has full Cobb exhaust, and this little guy was plugged into the OBDII port Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1of48 Posted November 6, 2019 Author Share Posted November 6, 2019 I took it to a Subaru guy and he doesn't think it has a tune but said the engine sounded very nice and he looked at the oil cap. He said if engine failure was likely then they typically have back pressure in the oil and it bubbles up but it has no signs of that. He said it definitely has an intake, intercooler & full exhaust. He thinks it's the stock engine but we couldn't find where the engine serial number is to be sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted November 7, 2019 Share Posted November 7, 2019 No offense to your subaru guy but I don't think he knows his stuff. If you're getting bubbles in the oil your like isn't going bad, it's already blown or has major cavitation issues. My engine blew without that warning sign. Also the block is stamped right up front with ej25 and on the part that mounts to the transmission right under the intercooler. I would think they'd know that. Also you have a stock intake (well I can't see the box but you have stock snorkel, maf, and turbo inlet so probably) but an sti intake manifold. It looks like that intercooler has a blow off (does it pshhhh when you shift or let off the gas?) which will cause it to run rich when it blows off, which is bad. If you have a turbo back exhaust, you absolutely need a tune, but you likely needed a tune anyway due to bov and bigger intercooler with should change your afr due to denser air coming into the engine. (Pretty sure I have all that right) You need to do a leak down and compression test. Which will tell you the health of the cylinders. You can rent the kits from auto stores usually and they aren't complex. Or just sell it. Here's what we know. You have a turbo back exhaust, intercooler, manifold, unknown turbo, running an unknown tune, with something done to the suspension. You either got a steal on a highly modified car (I mean turbo back, and suspension is thousands of dollars) or you got something someone slapped parts onto and couldn't figure out why it has issues. Get it tested, which will tell you whether to dump it or spend 300 on a tune. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted November 7, 2019 Share Posted November 7, 2019 Easy to read picture of all engine markings. Ej25 is right behind the power steering pump which is up front for reference. That blue thing is a cheapy obd code reader. Not gonna help for high level stuff but should at least tell you what a check engine light code is. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awfulwaffle Posted November 7, 2019 Share Posted November 7, 2019 (edited) To add to nonamedude's post up top: the block casting will be stamped with the head that it's supposed to go with. You can sort of make it out in the photo to the right of the lower coolant port. If you can actually get eyes on that spot under the manifold, you should be able to get a little more info. If it says B25 or D25, you still have an EJ255 with some fancy bits bolted on top, or an early EJ257 (2004-2005, IIRC)? If it says W25 or V25, it's an EJ257 block. The block casting number is right next to the head marking. It should be 701-706, depending on what generation EJ it is. This should help you narrow down how old at least the block casting is. That said, the differences between the EJ255 and EJ257 vary year to year. Edited November 7, 2019 by awfulwaffle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1of48 Posted November 7, 2019 Author Share Posted November 7, 2019 I should clarify the Subaru dude is no mechanic just a Subaru enthusiast who had a few tuner cars in the past, I asked him where the VIN was stamped on the engine and he replied it was buried underneath. Also I meant intake manifold not intake. Yes it's a blowback and makes one hell of a pshhhhh sound. Why would someone buy a full exhaust and intake manifold and not put a tune on it? Plus wouldn't it run poorly? It runs and sounds good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted November 7, 2019 Share Posted November 7, 2019 Lol well where I grew up (central Florida) people cobbled together things and cut springs to lower cars. Mainly civics. But for your question, because people don't know. Hell I didn't know. I made 1k miles in a new to me well maintained stock outback xt and it blew. Doing highway mileage with one red line pull. It's not like I was racing. I'm 30 and was driving it home. People think if you add an intake and exhaust you get more power, which you do on naturally aspirated cars. But since you got it for a deal with no history and not from an enthusiast, it's hard to say. I mean let's say it's mid mileage, all the upgrades and a vf52 (upgraded wrx turbo, a common upgrade) and tuned. If the interior and paint were in decent shape and the Spec B are limited run cars, that in the US should be worth more than 10k I'd think. So it's weird that one of these, treated well, would just turn up for a deal. I sure hope you got a gem, I think the forum just sees sooo many blown engines. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Holla Posted November 7, 2019 Share Posted November 7, 2019 I should clarify the Subaru dude is no mechanic just a Subaru enthusiast who had a few tuner cars in the past, I asked him where the VIN was stamped on the engine and he replied it was buried underneath. Also I meant intake manifold not intake. Yes it's a blowback and makes one hell of a pshhhhh sound. Why would someone buy a full exhaust and intake manifold and not put a tune on it? Plus wouldn't it run poorly? It runs and sounds good. Clearly someone had good intensions with the car. The fact someone would trade a rather rare, tastefully modded, 09’ Spec B into a Hyundai dealer raises some red flags for us. We’re are just highly suggesting that you actually get the car checked out before you start ringing this thing out. Just because it ‘seems’ like it’s running ok doesn’t mean that it’s actually running a safe tune for the mods it has. The car could have very well had a Cobb AP before hand and the owner took it out before it was traded in. Do your homework now. We don’t want you here a week from now wondering what symptoms a bad ring land or melted valve is like. Do a compression test, leak down, and most importantly, figure out what sort of tune you have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1of48 Posted November 7, 2019 Author Share Posted November 7, 2019 I figured out why I got such a good deal, when I registered it I found out it has the status of "Repaired" meaning it was a total loss and rebuilt at some point. I plan to do a compression and leak down test as soon as I find a willing mechanic. And I'll get them to check what turbo it has when I get them to check the shaft play. It has adjustable coilovers and the wrenches were in the trunk when I bought it so I should be able to get it back to stock height. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ttnio Posted November 7, 2019 Share Posted November 7, 2019 i would have asked questions before getting it. anyway, can you take it back for a refund? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted November 7, 2019 Share Posted November 7, 2019 I figured out why I got such a good deal, when I registered it I found out it has the status of "Repaired" meaning it was a total loss and rebuilt at some point. I plan to do a compression and leak down test as soon as I find a willing mechanic. And I'll get them to check what turbo it has when I get them to check the shaft play. It has adjustable coilovers and the wrenches were in the trunk when I bought it so I should be able to get it back to stock height. Ah that can be fun. If it wasn't valued well or the insurance adjuster or shop or owner didn't want to deal with the repair, you could have a totally fine vehicle. Or it could have shoddy repairs. At the end of the day, a total means it wasn't financially viable to do a full proper repair. I used to be an insurance adjuster. That said I have no qualms with rebuilt vehicles. But I also have the training to understand what was repaired and how from inspecting it. I mean they wouldn't have thrown a down pipe on it during repairs. That was certainly already there. I would suggest doing what you can yourself, depending on your confidence of course. Boxer engines are much harder to work on that an inline 4. And add in all the vacuum hoses and extra stuff for the turbo. You'll spend a lot in labor to get it checked out. Worth it prior to purchase but unless you need it to be a daily driver, you should be able to do compression, leak down (they are very similar tests) and inspect the turbo. And pull the banjo bolt by the turbo while you or whoever is at it. Yea it'll take you all weekend maybe but it'll probably also save you a few hundred. For that tune we all want you to get. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted November 7, 2019 Share Posted November 7, 2019 And remember a rebuild means repairs were more than value. Maybe they hit a deer and broke both bumpers and dented the fender, both passenger doors, broke the door glass, took the mirrors, dented the trunk lid and had guts everywhere. Shop will charge a ton but same color doors and bumpers and fender off any junkyard legacy and some elbow grease and vacuuming and it's good to go. 5k in a shop. 1k from Joe blow. Or maybe Joe blow put a big ass wench on the frame rail and eye balled it straight. I certainly didn't do that to my civic according to car fax lol. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1of48 Posted November 8, 2019 Author Share Posted November 8, 2019 There's no Subaru dealer in my city but after calling almost every dealership in town Mazda said they would take it in. Previouly I made an appointment with Chrysler but then they called back saying they figured it would require special tools and cancelled my appointment. Guess they didn't want to work on a Subaru. Here's some more photos in the daylight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted November 8, 2019 Share Posted November 8, 2019 What's that on the airbox? An hid ballast? A leakdown and compression test just require well, those testers and removing the spark plugs. No special tools at all. But if anyone doesn't know what those are, I wouldn't trust them. No need for a dealer to do it but I know shops can be sparse in certain areas. Checking the turbo requires a 14mm socket and a 14 mm wrench. Same thing, if they are afraid to check a turbo, don't trust them. And I'd try to get the results. Give us the compression and leak numbers for each cylinder. Don't get a yea I think it's fine. And you're looking for both in and out play and side to side play on the turbo. Maybe go down while the pipe is off and wiggle it yourself. For reference, my recent rebuild has literally zero shaft play. A tiny amount of wiggle is expected, the DO wear out. And I think on these the in out is a bigger concern than the back and forth. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveWaters Posted November 8, 2019 Share Posted November 8, 2019 I might be wrong but looks like it’s a legacy gt with an sti swap (motor and transmission) and some spec b badging. I’d check that vin with Subaru to confirm what you have there. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted November 8, 2019 Share Posted November 8, 2019 I might be wrong but looks like it’s a legacy gt with an sti swap (motor and transmission) and some spec b badging. I’d check that vin with Subaru to confirm what you have there. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk What makes you think it's a transmission swap? Just curious. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveWaters Posted November 8, 2019 Share Posted November 8, 2019 LGT never came with 6 speed (unless spec b). Red intake manifold indicates STI. STI came w/6 speed. I’m not sure spec b ever came w/black leather seats. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nonamedude Posted November 8, 2019 Share Posted November 8, 2019 Ah I just skipped it I guess since he said it was a spec b. But it could just be badging. I don't know the gear shifters will enough to recognize those. Isn't there a number plate on the Spec B below the gear shift? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Holla Posted November 8, 2019 Share Posted November 8, 2019 (edited) It’s missing the spec B interior. I would agree, it’s a lgt limited with a sti swap in it and some spec B badges on it. Only the 06’ spec B’s had the # plate on them. The spec B’s had blue shift knobs from the factory. This car has a red Sti one, but those are easily interchangeable. OP may need to change his user name Edited November 8, 2019 by Holla Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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