mlrtime Posted November 17, 2005 Share Posted November 17, 2005 If you search my posts, you'll see I am notorious for laying into people about driving like a jackass around other people and/or pedestrians. I guess I should have put a smiley in my post as your sarcasm detector is broken. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
voyetra8 Posted November 18, 2005 Author Share Posted November 18, 2005 I guess I should have put a smiley in my post as your sarcasm detector is broken. Nah dude- I wasn't pissed at all. Just saying.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrSpeed Posted October 19, 2009 Share Posted October 19, 2009 So, what exactly fails on these 5EAT's? Outside of creating a little bit of heat with the TC slipping (trans temp gauge can fix that - this way you know exactly what's going on), that's about it eh? We have problems braking input shafts, intermediates, and outputs as well (4x4 boost launch on turbo diesels). BANNED FROM THE TIKI FORUM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pataker Posted October 19, 2009 Share Posted October 19, 2009 The one thing i worry about on the 5EAT is how does the differential hold up... i would imagine that there is a ton of stress with the engine putting power down and the wheels not turning.... I dont know all that much about it... more curious than not i guess.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrSpeed Posted October 19, 2009 Share Posted October 19, 2009 The differential? As in the ring and pinion gears? Those things are beefy (compared to the rest of the drivetrain) BANNED FROM THE TIKI FORUM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
foxhound81 Posted October 20, 2009 Share Posted October 20, 2009 I would imagine whatever part that prevents the tranny from snapping any shafts takes the most wear. Something in there has to prevent the output shaft from applying full power since you have the brakes pretty much preventing what the tranny wants to be doing in the first place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnAWD Posted October 20, 2009 Share Posted October 20, 2009 2 words. Bring it. With that out of the way, if you are able to launch the crap out of your AT and the tranny takes it, more power to you. I'm in Castle Rock, btw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
youknowit Posted October 20, 2009 Share Posted October 20, 2009 How often should the tranny fluid be changed? And is there better stuff to use then what the dealership installs? Im wanting to get mine done...28k miles just because i feel the tranny is acting......weird. (I havent brake tq it) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
foxhound81 Posted October 20, 2009 Share Posted October 20, 2009 I think Amsoil has a nice synthetic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbone Posted October 20, 2009 Share Posted October 20, 2009 +1 and so far the only one we have seen success with because IPT uses it. Outside of that, use OEM and don't risk running an out of spec ATF that will ruin your 5EAT Good luck finding a local shop that will do an Amsoil flush for you because that's exactly what you'll need. Doing drains is not a good idea since you will be mixing in a different spec/formulation ATF with old ATF. I'm glad this thread got revived because I did my first torque brake launches sometime 2 weeks ago and it was intense. It was the first time I managed to get the car to rev up to 3K. It definitely does not want to go above that. I'm much too affraid to break stuff so I won't be doing this much, if ever. I have a tranny cooler, IPT valve body and a stiff tranny mount. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrSpeed Posted October 20, 2009 Share Posted October 20, 2009 Well, I mean, outside of generating some heat and raising the temperature of the ATF, there's not enough of a load to actually snap input shafts, intermediates, or outputs. The R&P sure as heck won't blow up, as a slow static load (ie not a shock load) will not break a heat treated part. CV's are not moving, so chances of that breaking is slim. So, all that's happening is that the TC is slipping, thus generating HEAT, and not a whole lot else. I mean, you can safely run up to 190F on ATF, with excursions up to 210 if need be. With high temps, that just breaks down the fluid, and if you change it out soon, the temporary lower viscosity is not going to damage tranny.... Yes, you can run an aux tranny cooler, but it ain't doin't sht when you're doing a brake stand on the line. The fluid STILL gets hot, you're just cooling it down faster... BANNED FROM THE TIKI FORUM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMLegacy Posted June 4, 2014 Share Posted June 4, 2014 BUMP... I cannot get mine to rev past 2,000RPM. I'm actually giving it 45% throttle.Is it safe, in your judgement, to floor it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firehawk618 Posted June 4, 2014 Share Posted June 4, 2014 Holy back from the dead. I stand on my brake pedal HARD. Floor the accelerator pedal. Hold it there. Car revs up a bit then starts building boost. It seems to stall out around 3400 rpms. Keep accelerator on the floor. Release brake. Smile. 10' CTS-V, A6, Airraid, 2.4 upper, ID850's, self tuned. SOLD:06' LGT Wagon. BNR16G, Catless UP, DOWN, Hexmods VB, Hexmods diff bushings, BIG TMIC. Best 0-60: 4.651 by AP 1/4= 13.678@100.73 mph, 1.945 60', Automatic transmission. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rush600 Posted June 4, 2014 Share Posted June 4, 2014 I feel like this is a terrible way to break your car... Is it really fine to do this to your car??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merc6 Posted June 4, 2014 Share Posted June 4, 2014 BUMP... I cannot get mine to rev past 2,000RPM. I'm actually giving it 45% throttle.Is it safe, in your judgement, to floor it? I couldn't hold mine past 2400 when I dragged it, what miles do you have on the rotors and pads? I feel like this is a terrible way to break your car... Is it really fine to do this to your car??? For this car, if it breaks it was meant to break. 2005 Satin White Pearl Subaru Legacy 2.5 GT Unlimited 5EAT (Project Car) 2019 Agate Black Ford Explorer XLT 4WD (DD) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 4, 2014 Share Posted June 4, 2014 For guy's with 5mt. I hope by now you know how to use the parking brake to pre-load the drivtrain while the clutch in slipping at about 3500rpm. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firehawk618 Posted June 5, 2014 Share Posted June 5, 2014 I feel like this is a terrible way to break your car... Is it really fine to do this to your car??? No it's not fine. Do I care? A little. If it breaks, I fix. 10' CTS-V, A6, Airraid, 2.4 upper, ID850's, self tuned. SOLD:06' LGT Wagon. BNR16G, Catless UP, DOWN, Hexmods VB, Hexmods diff bushings, BIG TMIC. Best 0-60: 4.651 by AP 1/4= 13.678@100.73 mph, 1.945 60', Automatic transmission. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMLegacy Posted June 5, 2014 Share Posted June 5, 2014 Tried this today. I held brake down, floored it and it only revs to 2,000RPM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMLegacy Posted June 5, 2014 Share Posted June 5, 2014 I couldn't hold mine past 2400 when I dragged it, what miles do you have on the rotors and pads? For this car, if it breaks it was meant to break. rotor probably 50,000 miles, pads i bought last year Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firehawk618 Posted June 5, 2014 Share Posted June 5, 2014 rotor probably 50,000 miles, pads i bought last year Are you all stock? 10' CTS-V, A6, Airraid, 2.4 upper, ID850's, self tuned. SOLD:06' LGT Wagon. BNR16G, Catless UP, DOWN, Hexmods VB, Hexmods diff bushings, BIG TMIC. Best 0-60: 4.651 by AP 1/4= 13.678@100.73 mph, 1.945 60', Automatic transmission. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMLegacy Posted June 5, 2014 Share Posted June 5, 2014 JDM LGT, 2.0, Vf34 turbo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firehawk618 Posted June 5, 2014 Share Posted June 5, 2014 JDM LGT, 2.0, Vf34 turbo Maybe that's why you're unable to build any boost at a stop. 10' CTS-V, A6, Airraid, 2.4 upper, ID850's, self tuned. SOLD:06' LGT Wagon. BNR16G, Catless UP, DOWN, Hexmods VB, Hexmods diff bushings, BIG TMIC. Best 0-60: 4.651 by AP 1/4= 13.678@100.73 mph, 1.945 60', Automatic transmission. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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