Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

Turbo question


Recommended Posts

So the turbo went on my 05 lgt. i think it was from an oiling issue since i would periodically get a P0011 code when my oil would get low due to a leak. So looking at getting a new turbo (also going to fix the leak and take it to a shop to diagnose the code and make sure the oil lines to the turbo are fine).

 

but question for the turbo.

What should i get? Vf40 cartridge ($240 + install), vf40 new turbo ($300), vf46($350). I dont think I want the 52 at this point.

 

main question is: I know the vf46 is a direct bolt on. but will i require a custom protune on the car? I am currently running a 06 ECU with the cobb stage 2 tune on it. I want to get the car protuned at some point but its a couple hour drive to the shop to do it. Can i install the 46 and run it on the same tune or will that cause problems? What are the main differences between the 40 and the 46 if they are brand new turbos?

 

if i go with the 46, do i need to modify anything on the turbo or switch anything over from the old turbo?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You should PM member JmP6889928, he is our go to guy for rebuilding turbos. He can answer your questions.

 

 

I think you can go with the vf46, make sure you use your hose with the boost pill and keep the car out of full boost for more then a few seconds.

 

You may also talk with Dave at https://www.cryotuneperformance.com/ he can send you a tune for the Cobb AP for which ever turbo you chose.

 

Tell Dave we sent you to him.

 

Oh you should replace the oil return hose too. FWIW, I bolt the turbo to the up pipe, you do have a catless up pipe, right ?

 

 

DSCN4783.thumb.JPG.e86ab40797b6563971baf46ad9cfdcdc.JPG

Edited by Max Capacity

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Check the rear main seal and oil filter housing (cooler?) seal-both were leaking on mine before I bought it and it had the P0011 & P0021 code. Went away after an oil change and seal replacement only to come back and bite my turbo in the ass. You should probably do an oil analysis to make sure the main bearings are ok among other things, check out the turbo failure wiki. Where are you looking at for new turbos for that cheap? Those prices sound like EBay/China turbos. Beware cheap prices...
Link to comment
Share on other sites

how the hell do you get a new vf40 or vf46 for 300/350 dollars???? That doesn't seem right... Are these oem turbos or some bootleg turbos of ebay?

 

 

 

That right there.

 

If you're not going to upgrade or trying for more power, get a vf40 and don't bother with all the pills and shit. That said if you're running more than stock, why not do it right and have a more reliable car? Jmp doesn't charge much more for a rebuild, assuming that your core is still good.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well idk about the shipping. That's likely true. JMP is in Michigan though so idk if that helps or it's a customs thing.

 

I see used Vf-40 being sold by members all the time that know what to look for. They've usually upgraded and can say if it has shaft play and will give good pictures. Check here and NASIOC. That's where I'd start. Frequently they've been rebuilt already.

 

After that I'd do the same thing but look at a used vf-52 which are more reliable. Either a Vf-46 or 52 will need new boost pills. But a 46 won't need a retune. If your turbo core is still fine, I'd think the best thing would be to check local forums here and NASIOC for someone who can rebuild it.

 

Also when you say it went do you mean it's going out or did you have a catastrophic failure? Are you sure it doesn't need a block? Checked the oil for metals? I'd hate to see you put money into a turbo and blow it again in 10k when they money should either go to a new car or a full rebuild.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You should probably do an oil analysis to make sure the main bearings are ok among other things, check out the turbo failure wiki.

 

:whore: I hope the thread starter stopped driving the car immediately once they noticed the was turbo failing and/or didn't over looked the sign of failing turbo. No point in putting a new turbo on an engine that has turbo bearing material in it and just about to fail damaging the new turbo.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Surely there are some CDN vendors/tuners up there (instead of dealer)? Maybe not in SK but in ON or BC or AB (they got all that oil money now lol) I imagine shipping wouldn’t be so bad from ON to Michigan but you’re out there. Try contacting Northwest Rally Sports, they’re in Washington state or Flat irons tuning in Colorado...maybe they know some shops closer to the western parts of CA? Just a thought.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

No metal in the oil that i can see. I will be taking the car to a shop to determine the cause of the turbo going. No not a catastrophic failure but something went.

Canada is bad for aftermarket support. If i were to have it rebuilt I would send it to Alberta (I am in Saskatchewan).

A local shop I talked to said that they highly recommend JM Turbo's which would be a bit cheaper than a rebuild.

I drove it maybe 17kms after the incident going slow, low revs and not boosting to get to a nearby town. than had the car shipped home. If it is the block then I will be parting out the car and getting a new one.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use