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What did you do to your 4th gen. Legacy today? Vol - 10


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You will find that any standard insurance company is going to lowball any estimate you come up with. I’ve been through this twice with my ‘05 LGT 5mt Limited wagon, once at 180k and again at 210k. (Currently at 246k) Both times totaled for hail here in CO. My car has no rust, no damage, perfect leather and paint. They do not give any premium for this; that’s what their baseline is and any imperfections (except accident damage) are not subtracted. So all the care and maintenance you’ve lavished on your car doesn’t come back to you in a settlement. I spent weeks sending photos, trying to find comps and arguing over the phone. First time settled for $8500.00; second time $8k. I had bitched, yelled, whined for weeks before I finally got an adjuster who went over every option and upgrade on the car, pricing each individually, which netted me about $500.00 more than the original estimate. I had the car PDR’ed both times and it’s still on the road.

I work at a body shop in Denver, and see how these companies operate every day. their first move is to give you a lowball estimate, hoping that you will take the money and run. There is no special consideration given for rarity, “cult car” status, mods, upgrades or upkeep. That’s why there are so many “take offs” and part outs in the classifieds here. Strip everything off your totaled car that isn’t factory because insurance doesn’t pay for it. They do not give one single f¥€k. It’s all based on mileage and regional book value. So the most you can hope for is that you have a low mileage car and perfect condition and even with that you will get the value they set. Finding comps on these cars that fit their qualifications is almost impossible. We all feel these cars are special, and should garner a premium if totaled, but insurance doesn’t work that way.

Mine is an 05, and I have found that it is not old enough to qualify for Haggerty. Maybe in a few years…

Maybe there’s a company that will do a “stated value“ policy, with inflated rates, but State Farm won’t. They just don’t have the option.

im still hoping to find a solution before my next round…

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1 hour ago, BoozeRS05 said:

I’d be ok with $8k for my wagon if totaled, but only if I could buy it back for next to nothing, and keep/sell everything salvageable

Exactly. That’s what I did: took the money, (minus the salvage value) and did PDR. No title change when totaling for hail.
My point was more to the fact that it is worth more to a buyer who knows what it is (or on BaT) than to your insurance carrier.

I purchased a pristine low mileage ‘95 Accord EX Wagon from SE Texas and had it shipped to Colorado in 2019. When it came off the trailer I had around 6k invested. I was rear ended in 2020, and it was totaled. Going back and forth for 6 months contesting their $2,000.00 valuation netted me an extra $65.00. Comps in California and Arizona weren’t considered, and they were the only recent examples I could find. One was sold on BaT from NJ, and sold for more than $6k. Not considered because it was an “outlier”.

insurance and health care should not be for-profit businesses.

IMG_8144.thumb.jpeg.162ea27f54a6b6298e2850beacc62b1b.jpeg

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On 12/30/2023 at 6:55 PM, KZJonny said:

I feel like user ‘dishwasher’ had a long, informed ramble about insurance and coverage etc… at one point as well. But that is testing the limits of my memory.

It was `Dishwasher`, even though he was in commercial fleet insurance he knew a few things about personal cars insurance as well.

@Infosecdad Brian what's your insurance company? I feel that list of requirements is fairly restrictive.

2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 249K

2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 272K

SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K

SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K

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1 hour ago, Ashtone said:

Exactly. That’s what I did: took the money, (minus the salvage value) and did PDR. No title change when totaling for hail.
My point was more to the fact that it is worth more to a buyer who knows what it is (or on BaT) than to your insurance carrier.

I purchased a pristine low mileage ‘95 Accord EX Wagon from SE Texas and had it shipped to Colorado in 2019. When it came off the trailer I had around 6k invested. I was rear ended in 2020, and it was totaled. Going back and forth for 6 months contesting their $2,000.00 valuation netted me an extra $65.00. Comps in California and Arizona weren’t considered, and they were the only recent examples I could find. One was sold on BaT from NJ, and sold for more than $6k. Not considered because it was an “outlier”.

insurance and health care should not be for-profit businesses.

IMG_8144.thumb.jpeg.162ea27f54a6b6298e2850beacc62b1b.jpeg

I was so over the Honda Accord wagon when I was dirt poor grad student. Still like it.

2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 249K

2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 272K

SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K

SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K

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@Infosecdad @Dishwasher had a thread here named something like `Insurance and you`. Not sure it will help in your specific circumstances but it had a lot of very useful information.

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2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 249K

2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 272K

SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K

SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K

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6 hours ago, SubOperator said:

It was `Dishwasher`, even though he was in commercial fleet insurance he knew a few things about personal cars insurance as well.

@Infosecdad Brian what's your insurance company? I feel that list of requirements is fairly restrictive.

USAA. They have been good to me for years, so not mad at them, just trying to get what I can for reasonable replacement.

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9 hours ago, BoozeRS05 said:

I’d be ok with $8k for my wagon if totaled, but only if I could buy it back for next to nothing, and keep/sell everything salvageable

I'm a bit below $8k, but the buy back is $500 so I'll end up being ok in the end.

Just have to work for it in the part out.

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Worked on odds and ends this weekend. Replaced my HID bulbs and cleaned up the wiring, eyeballed the alignment, pulled apart the fog lights, broke the blower motor, and found a coolant leak. Heuberger should give me frequent flyer miles.

I've been combing the car looking for missing bolts and clips. Turns out there's quite a few that never made it back on to the car over the years.

I started wiring for a new sound system so that I can put the interior back in. While I was cleaning things up behind my receiver I found this spliced in to my cubby wiring. I don't solder so it wasn't me. Does anyone know what this could be for? Aftermarket boost gauge maybe?

Tomorrow I'm fixing my exhaust leak so I can drive with the windows up. Maybe I'll finally start installing the second skin insulation. For some reason I've been dreading that.

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I figured as much. I taped and tucked it away for now, I'll cut it next time I'm in there. Hopefully that 15 year old solder job holds because that one will suck to fix.

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Happy 2024, maniacs. Had thought of posting last wash of ‘23 or some such but life got in the way. Then so did a possum on the highway.  Glancing blow, undertray seems the only casualty. I have nightmares about the insurance dance in a more significant occurrence. Best of luck, Infosecdad. Just look how Gex spun losing his RBP wagon for inspiration. 

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Happy New Year!

What did I do yesterday: First pass of underbelly cleanup. Combustion leak test on coolant (Neg), Contamination check (Neg on Oil, Neg on Coolant)

What I'm doing today prior to work: Checking ground conditions and playing the "whats missing" game where I try to figure out what bolts have simply never been reinstalled & where from previous service + Searching around for some rear fender..inner splash guards? The rears have been..Mauled, for lack of a better term. 😛

Additional Bonus Update: Coolant leak has been traced down to a very easily-missed scraping of the plastic where the cap sits, leading to inconsistencies with how it seals. It's much less now, but a new rad is a certainty.

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2008 Sedan.  Trying to track down why my rear defrost doesn't seem to be working.  Fuse = good.  Relay = good (swapped with horn to verify).  Measured resistance across grid = 145ohms.  Voltage across grid with defrost turned on = pulses between 6V-ish and zero??  On a 1-2 second pulse.  That doesn't seem normal.  I would have expected a solid 12V.  Can anyone confirm?  PM if desired, I don't want to clutter this thread up.

Edited by SilentJ20
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37 minutes ago, xt2005bonbon said:

Wagon? If yes, probably broken wires inside grommet between trunk and body.

Clarified my post.  Sedan.  Very aware of the wagon hatch problems, because that's 90% of the search results, haha.  

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1 hour ago, SilentJ20 said:

2008 Sedan.  Trying to track down why my rear defrost doesn't seem to be working.  Fuse = good.  Relay = good (swapped with horn to verify).  Measured resistance across grid = 145ohms.  Voltage across grid with defrost turned on = pulses between 6V-ish and zero??  On a 1-2 second pulse.  That doesn't seem normal.  I would have expected a solid 12V.  Can anyone confirm?  PM if desired, I don't want to clutter this thread up.

Try cleaning and tightening the connectors to actual defroster on the glass. Could be corroded due to its age. Be careful pulling the connectors off.

 

2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 249K

2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 272K

SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K

SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K

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My 05 5mt lgt got a new clutch (Spec stage 2+) 110 miles ago.   Seems great.    Have the kartboy short shifter too for install but i wanna get bushings still so not really hurry.   ***I really want a roof rack/bars-- but most models I see clamp into the window seal or door seal..  thus NEARLY eliminating the options for smoke shades/window visors..   making me more tempted to just bolt thru with some fender washer bolts thru roof with silicon. Vs a gay window latch rack that robs my window shade looks; let alone mounting.  

 

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I had a certain incident last night involving the right side of the speedometer and a fender liner being secured by exactly 1 clip. It had been holding on for dear life for a while but I hadn't considered the consequences of driving with a missing foglight. Oops.

But hey, the bumper cover held on by 2 bolts did great.

So the rest of the front end got assembled today. New Diode Dynamics LEDs in the fogs, new Morimoto 55W bulbs, a headlight adjustment, and a sore back from endlessly persuading the front bumper cover to line up properly. My grill is toast (note the missing emblem) but I can't bring myself to drop almost 300 for a new one. That'll probably be a scrapyard find.

Yesterday I tracked down the exhaust leak and swapped out that 3" gasket. The donut needs to be replaced as well so I made a Grimmspeed order. I'm just glad to be driving with the windows up.

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31 minutes ago, 05gtripper said:

My 05 5mt lgt got a new clutch (Spec stage 2+) 110 miles ago.   Seems great.    Have the kartboy short shifter too for install but i wanna get bushings still so not really hurry.   ***I really want a roof rack/bars-- but most models I see clamp into the window seal or door seal..  thus NEARLY eliminating the options for smoke shades/window visors..   making me more tempted to just bolt thru with some fender washer bolts thru roof with silicon. Vs a gay window latch rack that robs my window shade looks; let alone mounting.  

 

Well if you wanted something less uh, "gay", then your best bet is a track system. Thule and Yakima make them but I don't know if they bend, I usually see them on truck canopies. You'd also be drilling holes in your roof. If you go that route I'd recommend putting a rust blocker/primer on your holes and sealing them up like you said.

Sedan racks aren't good for much so you wouldn't be fitting much up there. A hitch mount might be better depending on what you're trying to carry.

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Getting ready for the JDM bumper. Had to notch out a few places on the mounts that slide into the frame but otherwise fits great. Since I won't need the muffler tip extensions anymore I picked up some S402 mufflers off the auctions to cannibalize and have the tips welded onto the Invidia for those sweet embossed STI logo's.

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In other news and in typical fashion for me, I got inspired, or spiraled depending on who you ask, to start & finish up some long-term desired projects so ordered some more parts from Japan. Going to add the rear seat recline option along with the power fold buttons in the rear cargo trim. Also going to install the JDM cargo fan option, Subaru OEM footwell lighting after swapping LED color, get the power folding mirror harness installed, and finally get the steering wheel controls to work from my 11-14 STI wheel swap I did years ago. Going to have a nice long list of items to update my build thread with.

Hope everyone had a great New Years and Happy Year of the Wagon, sorry Dragon!

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11 minutes ago, DoctorDaveLGT said:

Getting ready for the JDM bumper. Had to notch out a few places on the mounts that slide into the frame but otherwise fits great.

 

Does that Beatrush piece replace your rear impact bar when using a JDM bumper cover?

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9 hours ago, 05gtripper said:

Have the kartboy short shifter too for install but i wanna get bushings still so not really hurry. 

 


Install that short shifter.. It’s a fantastic upgrade over stock even without any additional bushings and takes less than an hour to do. 

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