bigboy292000 Posted April 29, 2019 Share Posted April 29, 2019 I have an issue where after I take a key out, I can hear the mechanical / servo sound repeatedly behind the dash. Additionally, at times, when I put the air to both top and bottom vents, the air blows irregularly (like stronger, then not as strong etc. randomly). I found a thread that deals with this, here. I have done some research and based on what my mechanics stetoscope is telling me, the part that is going is the driver side #2 on the illustration below, of the part marked with a red arrow on the photo. Air mix door actuator. The problem is - this part is so high up in the car; basically a little lower than the gauge cluster. I just can't reach it from the bottom even after I remove the lower trim. My question is: Has anyone replaced this on a 5th gen? The above thread is mostly 4th gen. Youtube has nothing. The shop manual seems to indicate that I basically need to follow instructions for heater core removal which means taking the whole dash out, sterring column and all. I do not think that even removing the gauge cluster will give me any more clearance to work, based on this video (at 1:35 into the video): Any words of wisdom? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinesol Posted May 1, 2019 Share Posted May 1, 2019 I don't have any advice, but my car does this also and it is very annoying. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigboy292000 Posted May 1, 2019 Author Share Posted May 1, 2019 Went to the dealer today. The parts guy was well aware of this problem and said the part is not a problem but to go talk to the service advisor. Service advisor pretty much immediately said (apparently he is aware of this problem) - 9 hours of labor + parts = $1450 to get it fixed. I'm planning to try take the instrument cluster out and see if those 6 screws that I see in the video of instrument cluster replacement can give me any more space to get this done without this major surgery. I'm not too hopefull. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capttris Posted May 1, 2019 Share Posted May 1, 2019 good luck and keep us posted! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigboy292000 Posted May 4, 2019 Author Share Posted May 4, 2019 Today I confirmed that there is no way to take this part out without taking the dash out first. Took the instrument cluster out and while there is a small bracket that can come out from behind it, there is not enough space to work on the actuator. The left driver side air vent duct is in the way. You can grab the actuator, see the flap freaking out through the central vent but that is all. I don't quite understand why taking the dash out would require removing the steering column though. I don't think it does unless you really need to take the heater core out. I'm likely not going to do anything right now but yeah... PITA! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrD123 Posted May 10, 2019 Share Posted May 10, 2019 So this is the passenger side air mix door actuator, right? The service manual has you remove the glove box assembly, then remove the ECM (that's the part with the row of connectors down the front in your picture), then remove the air mix door actuator (looks like 2 screws, and you'd probably need an offset screwdriver to get at them easily) - I enclosed the instructions from the service manual for the '12 below. On our previous van, the drivers side door mix motor (it was a Honda odyssey) started fluttering and making all sorts of noise every now and then - I pulled it off, and out of curiousity, pulled it apart to see what might be messed up. I ended up cleaning and relubricating the internals, putting it back together, and then it worked without a hitch from then on (we got rid of that van about 7 years later) - nothing was physically worn out - just the sliding contacts were messed up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrD123 Posted May 10, 2019 Share Posted May 10, 2019 Sorry! Just noticed this is the drivers side! Procedure is pretty similar, except they have you remove the BIU and associated bracket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrD123 Posted May 10, 2019 Share Posted May 10, 2019 The mode door (which might be the one you were pointing at) is the same basic procedure Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harothaug Posted July 21, 2019 Share Posted July 21, 2019 Did replacing the actuator fix the problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueGT05 Posted October 21, 2022 Share Posted October 21, 2022 (edited) I know this is old but it came up in my searches and I just dealt with this exact issue - driver side actuator replacement. If anyone's interested, my 05 LGT Limited showed a part number no one has in stock (72131AG08A) and the local Subaru dealers came up with another one that no one has either (72131AG12A). I took a chance and tried the 72131AG27A (about $92) which had come up in my searches since I was able to get it locally and it fits and works perfectly. Replacing it was a bear (scratched up my hands a little), but I managed to do it using this procedure: 1) Remove the lower panels on the driver's side and the left side of the center console area (have to remove center parts and ashtray) 2) Remove the controller box thingy mounted next to the steering column that has 3 plugs going into it (keyless entry won't work without this) 3) Move some wiring harnesses out of the way as needed and the white air tube 4) Reach up and undo 2 screws on the bracket holding the actuator to the hvac system (the lowest one and the one facing the front of the car) - I couldn't reach the top one 5) Undo the 3 screws holding the actuator to the bracket and remove the actuator (note the position of the white plastic guide for the vent) - you'll need a very short philips for this 6) On the new part, remove the bracket and use those same screws (to ensure they thread right) and reach up inside and attach it to the bracket that's still in the car, make sure the metal post goes into the slot on the white arm 7) Reattach the bracket to the 2 mounting points you removed it from Put everything back! Edited October 21, 2022 by BlueGT05 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truslide Posted April 30, 2023 Share Posted April 30, 2023 Don't forget some of the models got that weird change.. its me, I got it... and there is only one actuator on the driver's side. So just FYI, some might look different, the passenger side is the same. Thanks for the pictures!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDSubie4 Posted August 22, 2023 Share Posted August 22, 2023 On 4/30/2023 at 1:29 PM, Truslide said: Don't forget some of the models got that weird change.. its me, I got it... and there is only one actuator on the driver's side. So just FYI, some might look different, the passenger side is the same. Thanks for the pictures!! So part number is same for driver's side as it is for passenger's side? Going to Rock Auto website, there is only one part number that they list for a Dorman actuator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
creep_nu Posted August 22, 2023 Share Posted August 22, 2023 looking on the subaru website, yes both should be the same. honestly though, i'd skip dorman and just go OEM...you can find subaru discounters selling it for like $80. it's not difficult to replace, but...it's not an expensive part. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Falcor Posted August 22, 2023 Share Posted August 22, 2023 I probably should replace mine, but not sure if I'm ready to tackle it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueGT05 Posted August 22, 2023 Share Posted August 22, 2023 The part number I ordered for the driver's side is 72131AG27A. Not sure now if it's same as passenger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
creep_nu Posted August 23, 2023 Share Posted August 23, 2023 On 8/22/2023 at 1:04 PM, Falcor said: I probably should replace mine, but not sure if I'm ready to tackle it. it's really easy, took me maybe 45 min? just have a good shorty phillips screwdriver and a good pick set to unclip the 18 individual harnesses in the parking brake assembly thingy and you're good to go. the P/N for 5th gen is 72131AJ10A. the top screw is a little annoying to get back in since you gotta kinda feel it in a tight area with no visibility, but once the module is in its tabs everything kinda lines up and the screw should go in no prob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Falcor Posted August 25, 2023 Share Posted August 25, 2023 On 8/23/2023 at 3:18 PM, creep_nu said: it's really easy, took me maybe 45 min? just have a good shorty phillips screwdriver and a good pick set to unclip the 18 individual harnesses in the parking brake assembly thingy and you're good to go. the P/N for 5th gen is 72131AJ10A. the top screw is a little annoying to get back in since you gotta kinda feel it in a tight area with no visibility, but once the module is in its tabs everything kinda lines up and the screw should go in no prob Awesome, thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MDSubie4 Posted August 25, 2023 Share Posted August 25, 2023 On 8/22/2023 at 1:21 PM, BlueGT05 said: The part number I ordered for the driver's side is 72131AG27A. Not sure now if it's same as passenger. I pulled out my cubby and felt the vibration of the one on the driver's side. That's what I'm ordering. Thanks for the lead on the pn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrD123 Posted August 31, 2023 Share Posted August 31, 2023 Has anyone picked up the Lisle 64180 Actuator Motor Wrench Set to do this? Looks like it might help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
creep_nu Posted September 11, 2023 Share Posted September 11, 2023 welp...ended up pulling the dash. it was actually rather easy, just tedious. only 2 different types of screws holding the whole dang thing in. coarse thread for going in to plastic, fine threads for going in to j-nuts or metal. i thought i had the mix door in right, tested it out and i *thought* everything was working. it...was not. i've got no air to the defroster or feet. so, looks like i'll be removing it again. given my long arms I was able to get a screwdriver in there to remove the module (after removing the CAN stuff under the dash to get some clearance), but i personally wasn't able to finagle it back into its home and get the screws in so i just ripped the dash out instead. still couldn't get it in its home apparently but here we are.... i 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
creep_nu Posted October 16, 2023 Share Posted October 16, 2023 took it apart again, finally getting a 2o code on the self-diagnostic check thing through the air box. it took me longer to get all the door pins in their right slots on the module than it did to remove the dash the 2nd time...figured out the trick was to have the screws holding the module in loose, hit the mode buttons, and just kinda....finagle the module around until everything clicked in and works. took me damn near 2 hours to figure that out...took an hour to rip the dash out and another to put it back in. smh. but, air works now, heat's better than ever...but it still doesn't blow cold. that's a problem for next spring. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truslide Posted November 24, 2023 Share Posted November 24, 2023 On 8/30/2023 at 6:56 PM, DrD123 said: Has anyone picked up the Lisle 64180 Actuator Motor Wrench Set to do this? Looks like it might help. A WHHHAAAATTTTTTT!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truslide Posted November 24, 2023 Share Posted November 24, 2023 Alright.... Legit I'm the idiot that took two weeks off between disassembly and reassembly and I connect the two white plugs that fit but don't go together. Tried to turn the car on and smelt burning under the ignition. lol tried to turn it off and it was stuck. so jumped out of the car and in a dash ripped the battery connector off lol... so, yeah, After it cooled down, the I was able to get the key out of the ignition. lol How much am I going to have to replace? Any thoughts.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrD123 Posted November 29, 2023 Share Posted November 29, 2023 On 11/24/2023 at 3:17 PM, Truslide said: A WHHHAAAATTTTTTT!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truslide Posted December 3, 2023 Share Posted December 3, 2023 On 11/28/2023 at 8:57 PM, DrD123 said: HELLLOOOOOOOO NURSE!!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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