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capttris

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Everything posted by capttris

  1. Thanks everyone for the help! After all these years driving and working on cars, I didn't know there was a difference between regular high speed balancing, and "road force balancing". Road Force is apparently a better balance as it puts weight/pressure on the tire as it spins. I found a different tire shop that does Road Force. They got all 4 wheels to balance, but noticed that the other right side wheel had a slight bend in the inner lip. Mavis didn't catch that. The new tire shop said to drive the car and see how it feels to me, before deciding on repairing the tiny bend on the lip of the 2nd wheel. The car feels pretty good now though. Every driving surface is different so it's hard to tell, but I think I'm ok. To make matters worse, the Bridgestone Turanza 215/50/17 tires that I have are discontinued and I couldn't find a single one on the internet, anywhere. Not even Ebay. Then I found a guy on Marketplace and bought a brand new/used tire that he had on a full size spare, and he said was used once for 5 miles when he got a flat. I bought the extra tire just in case the tire shop told me the tire has an internal issue (which I was starting to expect. It was a really hard hit) I'm seeing that places that shave tires down to match tread depth, will NOT shave a used tire. I'm hoping to really clean up this new take off tire and save it in case I need to get it shaved -for a future blow out. So for now, I think I'm good. thanks everyone!
  2. Last week, while driving in heavy rain at highway speeds, I hit what looked like a landscaping rock in the road, with the right front tire. The whole car jumped and it's the hardest thing I've ever hit in over 25 years of driving. I was expecting to see the TPMS light come on but it didn't. I stopped and inspected in the dark and didn't see any issues. I later drove to a Mavis Tire and they found the inside of my right front wheel bent. I had them repair with a wheel repair guy, and rebalance it. But I'm still feeling a vibration while driving. I even swapped the wheel with the rear, and I'm still hearing/feeling something not perfect. My alignment is actually ok. I can let go of the wheel at highway speeds and it drives straight. I'm thinking my next step is maybe swapping on my winter wheel/tire and taking off the repair wheel and tire, to see if maybe the tire itself has an issue that the Mavis shop didn't find. Any other thoughts on what to check?
  3. I had a 91 Prelude for almost 20 years. Best car I've ever owned. I went with new aftermarket axles around 100,000 miles, and the right one clicked around hard turns, every time, for the next 15 years and almost 95,000 miles, until I sold it. It was annoying and a constant reminder of saving a few dollars on aftermarket, but it never let me down. Obviously the clicking is something binding and wearing, but it held up.. That really sucks that Subaru doesn't have an OEM CV boot only. Hopefully I don't have to deal with that for a while...
  4. Its funny that the recommendation is to "inspect" the front and rear diff, and CVT oils. With the time and effort needed to "inspect" (lift the car so its 100% level, remove the fill plug, and then, um.... inspect? inspect what? look through the tiny hole to see that the level is at or near the fill hole, and somehow try to see the color of the oil?) At that point, you may as well just remove the top, then remove the bottom plug and drain and refill. By lifting the car, making sure level, and removing the top plug, you are practically 60% done with the job already.
  5. This article is fantastic on explaining how the suspension of the Outback works, as well as the Legacy https://www.autoblog.com/amp/2020/04/01/2020-subaru-outback-suspension-deep-dive/
  6. While that list is an accurate recommendation of preventative maintenance to be performed, the price is insane... I just experienced something similar at my local dealership last month. They are a new dealer, and currently offering a super low price on oil changes, to drum up business. While I normally change my own oil, their price is cheaper than doing it myself! The previous visit in fall 2019 also had them do the state inspection, front and rear diff, CVT oil change. So I walk into the service dept and ask for the oil change special. The "service advisor" lady clicks away on her computer, and says "while she is putting my info in the computer, to please look at their service recommendation sheet based on the mileage of my vehicle (104,000 miles). I believe it closely matched your 60K mile service interval sheet. I asked "do you still offer the complementary multi-point inspection with every service, no charge?" She said "oh yes, of course" I asked her to produce a blank copy, and asked to borrow her pen. I then cross-referenced all of the things in the FREE multi-point inspection, with the things on the $1500+ "recommended maintenance" sheet... That eliminated about 60% The lady went silent while she was thinking of what to say.... Lady: "Well, we still recommend that you do front & rear diff, CVT oil change, cabin and engine air filters." Me: "How can you recommend this when I just paid your dealership to do the front and rear diff & CVT less than 6 months ago?" Lady: "um...well...I didn't look in our system to see what work we have already performed" Me: "How can you "recommend" or "advise" on ANY preventative maintenance work to my car, without looking at any service history and/or asking me what was done?" Lady: "So just the engine oil change today, sir?" Me: "yes, please. Oh, and the free multi-point inspection, too" This is 100% a true and accurate story from just a few weeks ago. It is unfortunately what gives dealerships a bad reputation, but it's real and a fact of life.
  7. I have a 2013 Legacy and love it. Back in 2012 when I was looking at cars, I was thinking about the Outback vs legacy for myself. I have a family and 2 kids, but my wife has a CRV, so I justified my decision that the CRV would be for family trips, hauling stuff, etc. I do a ton of driving for work, so I went to the Legacy because: it was a few thousand cheaper better MPG (it was a bigger difference in 2012, than it is now) sportier/tighter on the road, for all of the driving I do for work. I have 105,000 on the Legacy and have no regrets. It's a great highway cruiser. But my next car will probably be an Outback and this is why: - MPG is much closer to Legacy now - higher ground clearance/better approach angle, to not worry about negotiating parking lots/curbs/dips in driveways, etc and scraping the front bumper. - I like the plastic cladding - it will better protect the car from, well, everything. from jobsites to parking lot door dings, etc - it will hold more in the rear and/or with seats down - I would get a hitch and hitch basket/cargo carrier for things you don't want to put in the car (gas/power equipment, etc), and a bike rack - roof rack would be good for lumber on occasion.
  8. I agree with Creep - brake lights (or any lights) should never be blocked (or tinted).
  9. What product did you use for lube? I have this problem on my 2013 sunroof. thanks
  10. It sure is a good thing that you pulled the carpets and found that. The 2 more important things at this point, are 1) killing the mold and 2) finding the source of the water leak. I would inspect every inch of the sunroof gasket, drain pan around the sunroof, and verify each drain is draining properly. If nothing found, inspect all door gaskets both on the door and the car. Something changed recently to cause the leak. It's a matter of finding what changed.
  11. Yonas I would recommend changing the filter, cleaning the MAF sensor and doing a further cleaning and inspection downstream from there, to see if any dirt/debris made it to any other components that may need to be cleaned. While the damage may be done (depending on how long this was open), you may still be able to prevent some future issues. For example, if dirt/sand is rubbing on any components, they could fail in the future, but if you clean them now they may be ok.
  12. I use my 2013 2.5 Limited for business travel often, and it's quite common for me to do day-trips that are close to 400 miles round trip in a day. It's a long day on the road but the Legacy is comfortable and a great highway cruiser. My longest day-trip was Long Island to Wilmington, DE and back. I did plenty of stretches before and after that trip. And then did it all over again a year later!
  13. Normal. My 2013 2.5 with 100,000 miles does the same thing. I also garage mine, and it's loud in the garage in the enclosed space. And yes, it has a high-idle RPM upon startup, apparently to get warm faster for reduced emissions. (and it can help to get heat in the cabin a little faster in the winter) all is normal. You changed the oil 4 times in under 10,000 miles??? That's really not needed. Every 3-5000 miles (or even more) is fine unless you are under super extreme driving conditions.
  14. All Sorry it has taken me a while to respond. See attached oil sample results: 1. clean CVT Oil - right out of the bottle 2. Used CVT Oil - July 2015 was the 1st oil change @ 54,000 miles. (It was yellow as they found some very tiny debris but nothing to worry about they said). 3. Used CVT oil - April 2019 - 2nd oil change @ 97,500 miles. No real issues. 4. Used Rear Diff oil - all looked good. This is not shown on the result but is also the 2nd time I changed it. It was changed when I did the CVT at 54,000 miles. 5. Photo of used and clean CVT Oil, after the 54,000 miles (and 1st CVT oil change) Clean CVT Oil results.pdf Used CVT Oil Results 2019.pdf Used Oil Rear Diff.pdf Used CVT Oil 2015.pdf
  15. I just hit 100,000 miles and have changed the CVT oil twice now and sent in the oil to a lab. I also had the lab do a sample of fresh CVT oil right from the bottle. In both cases, the used oil was very dark and dirty-looking, compared with brand new oil. However, both used oil samples were not far off from the results of the clean oil. If anyone wants to see the reports, please let me know.
  16. Am I the only one who tries to park in the shade (or at least shade over the headlights?) If I know I'm parking for an extended period on a sunny day, I'll actually try to either park so the headlights are in the shade. If that's not possible, I actually try to park facing North or so the headlights are being hit with direct sunlight. At work, I can park right next to the building, which blocks the sun most of the year, but not in the summer, as the sun it too high in the sky and only half of my car lengthwise gets shade. This means that one headlight gets sun, the other gets shade. I would have to park in opposite directions every other day, so I don't unevenly protect one headlight over the other. Wow. You probably all think I'm nuts, lol. It's not as extreme as it sounds. But I do try to keep the headlights away/out of the sun when possible. And I park in a garage at home.
  17. I did exactly the same comparison, and decided to go with stock/OEM Ford LED. There were some mixed reviews with the Morimotos. I knew with the Ford LED's, that 1) warranty replacement would probably be faster & easier at my local dealer 2) Long term replacement down the road would be more of a guarantee of parts availability. I'm not sure how long Morimoto is in business of if they (or their LED fogs) will be around in 10 years from now if/when I need to replace a unit. If you buy from a local dealer, check for parts discount coupons on their website. You might find a 10-20% parts deal and walk home with new lights to install!
  18. There are a few people here who have high mileage, over 150,000 miles with the oil burning issue, adding oil regularly, and they have said they have had no issues with check engine lights or emissions. I think they were staying with 0W20 oil. I didn't mind checking and adding oil often, but the main reason I went with the short block replacement at 65,000 miles, was to avoid any potential long term issues. It sounds like that may not be an issue.
  19. I actually wax my headlights and buff off. And I clay bar them first. I do this once a year. They have been staying clean, smooth and clear with no yellowing on my 2013.
  20. I agree with everyone here. As much as I love my 2013 Legacy Limited, I think my next car would be an Outback, for the additional rear space, more exterior cladding for protection, etc. But $40K for a loaded Outback, when an Ascent Limited is $40K, is a tough call. And the 11" display - I agree, I like buttons, and HATE bright screens when night driving. I one borrowed a family member's $100K Range Rover and spent 10 minutes trying to find a way to dim/turn off/night mode the center display screen, only to take a fleece jacket and throw it over the dash, so I could drive at night! I'm also surprised that Subaru put safety items as high-end-only options only available in the XT Limited, like Front End Display and DriverFocus Distraction Mitigation System. High end models should be about Luxury and "wants", not safety items. The pricing strategy isn't unique to Subaru. Many manufacturers price loaded-out lower-model cars, near/over the next model up. In any case, the new OB models and pricing vs Ascent, might lean my decision towards that. Hard to say. I just clay-barred and waxed my Legacy last weekend and I'm not planning to do anything with it any time soon. Just keep driving and maintaining it, as usual.
  21. I don't see an issue, but honestly, I've had better results with Chevron Techron Concentrate - the bigger bottle good for up to 20 gallons. I run that about once a year.
  22. I did the Ford OEM Fogs install 2 years ago on my 2013. One of the easiest and BEST upgrades! I added Lamin-x on them to protect them, as my original Subaru Fog lenses were so badly etched/pitted. The Ford Fogs look awesome and they light the roadway so much better!
  23. Edward, I believe it's a 1 year warranty on the parts and labor. As for advice, please look back at my original post, and follow up posts, as I tried to give as much advice as possible. If you have specific questions, I'm happy to help answer them.
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