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Need to set crank to home position before timing belt install


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How do I get the crank to the 'CORRECT' timing mark (meaning not just the mark - on the centerline mark) but HOW DO I KNOW that the rotation of the engine is on the correct 'stroke' to begin lining up the rest of the CAMS to it?

 

I am all set to begin, but having bent valves last time I tried this.. I want to be REALLY REALLY REALLY sure I do it right this time.

 

is there an exact procedure like -- "get to TDC for CYL 1 - then rotate till the engine crank is marks Straight up to line on case.... "

 

Something like that?

 

Does it MATTER which stoke it's on if I have the crank on the mark on the case lined up? or is any old rotation of the crank fine, no diff?

 

HELP!!! No more bent valves!

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As far as the block is concerned, it doesn't care if what used to be a compression stroke is now set to an exhaust stroke. It's whole job is to rotate and that's it. The cams HAVE to be synchronized and timed properly though. And the crank spins twice per every one rotation of the cams so just set it to TDC before taking it apart, then put it back in time with the new belt/components and everything is good. However, if you rotate the crank or cams separately of each other when the belts off, just manually move them to the right position WITHOUT going opposite of normal rotation and then set it up with the belt, then once the belt is on with the tensioner in place, manually turn the engine over a few times to confirm everything is still in time.
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You don't use TDC on Subaru's for timing.

Line up the crank mark. Then rotate the cam sprockets slowly.

You don't state if your engine is SOHC or DOHC.

If DOHC the lower sprockets turn counterclockwise. Time the intake first then the exhaust.

If you feel it hitting, STOP then rotate the intake a little then the exhaust, until you get them to synchronize. Do one side at a time.

Once done and tensioner pin pulled, rotate by hand at least 2 revolutions to make sure all is well.

 

O.

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There are timing marks and timing marks. The set used for setting cam timing place all the pistons half way down the bore so that you have a chance in h311 of getting the job done without damage. The one for spark timing is for #1 TDC. Using this one to set cam timing will very likely on certain models destroy the engine.

 

If your engine has a belt on it when you are taking it apart, line up the marks before you take off the belt. On single cam engines you are set at this point. On dual cam engines you should use the fixture or similar to GUARENTEE the cams don't move relative to eachother or the valve springs will push off the lobes and rotate the cams. If they do, intake and exhaust may try to be in the same place at the same time and you're back to a full rebuild.

 

If you don't have a solid reference book to know which marks are which you should leave the wrenches in the box until you get one.

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  • 1 month later...
How do I get the crank to the 'CORRECT' timing mark (meaning not just the mark - on the centerline mark) but HOW DO I KNOW that the rotation of the engine is on the correct 'stroke' to begin lining up the rest of the CAMS to it?

 

 

 

I am all set to begin, but having bent valves last time I tried this.. I want to be REALLY REALLY REALLY sure I do it right this time.

 

 

 

is there an exact procedure like -- "get to TDC for CYL 1 - then rotate till the engine crank is marks Straight up to line on case.... "

 

 

 

Something like that?

 

 

 

Does it MATTER which stoke it's on if I have the crank on the mark on the case lined up? or is any old rotation of the crank fine, no diff?

 

 

 

HELP!!! No more bent valves!

Needs to be in compression stroke top dead center intake and exhaust valves closed

 

Sent from my SM-S327VL using Tapatalk

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Doesn't need to be compression. Just line up crank sprocket mark with the mark on the oil pump housing. Clean if not clear.

Then line up the respective cam marks. The driver side will be under load but will hold position.

Remember hash marks never arrows.

After you pull the tensioner pin and it is extended. Rotate the crank by hand two full revolutions.

After that you can proceed with reattaching other accessories.

You can even start it if you want.

 

The FSM gives details.

 

O.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Plus you can make your own if they're rubbed off or faded away. The FSM will tell you exactly how to set the crank and then use an actual measurement relative to centerline and where to mark on the cams (single cam motors).

 

Definitely download the FSM.

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