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noahrexion

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    PNW
  • Car
    96 L Wagon

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  1. Well kudos to you for helping out. Pulling older rusty cars apart is always a nail biter. Heres to hoping for good bearings and a smooth process ahead of you.
  2. I read your story. If you're trying to be a good neighbor and wanting to do this on the cheap please stick with OEM parts. Don't buy the ebay quick struts or anything like that. I don't know your budget but I always recommend against putting junk on a car to be "cheap": I've learned that lesson repeatedly throughout my life. The 98-99 assemblies will work 100% on your ride. Is it possible the car will have a slight 1/2" lift? Definitely. Does it matter? Your call... I see you broke a spring and that is likely a combo of fatigue/age and being in PA with rust. If you try to source used parts locally, definitely inspect them as much as possible - look for powder coating peeling from the coil springs themselves or any bare metal exposed on them to indicate possible failure. Better yet, buy used from ANY part of the country that doesn't have rust if you can afford the shipping. Consider merging your threads into one as well so those trying to help/assist can easily follow your progress and all pertinent questions stay organized.
  3. You won't notice any discernible difference - definitely not 10%. Your pad choice will make the most noticeable difference. Larger calipers with increased fluid capacity with stock master cylinder will also make the brakes feel more "touchy on/off". You can always trade in your GT calipers as cores for whatever other caliper you desire.
  4. How long have you had the car? You said it recently developed this problem so I'm guessing a while. You said you have another subaru - assuming the same generation of 2.2 Have you considered swapping the knock sensor and/or pressure sensor to just see if they make a difference? Both of those CAN cause hesitation/timing retard without a CEL. Your problem happens under heavier load of getting on throttle up a hill and its as if the ECU cannot react to the immediate throttle adjustment/load. I hope you continue with this one and we find out where it goes. Have you had any CEL's recently?
  5. Manual or Auto trans? Is this with the A/C compressor running? I know you said heat on, is this with the AC button pushed? Have you checked your new plugs since installing them? If so what did they look like?
  6. They are way easier to navigate - Subaru didn't have the budget (then).
  7. It is very quick to pull the rocker cover and check - what is the build date of the car/motor? My 96' has roller rockers with hydraulic lash adjusters. About 3k miles ago I changed oil, t belt and resealed the front cover and rockers and everything. I developed a tick that got louder over the last few weeks - not dissimilar from a rod knock (didn't go away). I presume maybe a small piece of something (sealer/debris?) got stuck in an oil passage perhaps. It was on the pass side so I popped the cover and pushed each HLA to see if there was any movement (air) and I didn't find ANY to budge at all which was a good thing. I still opted to take the rocker assy off and clean out every single HLA and found that each one was a little sticky and, despite my regular clean synthetic oil everywhere else, they had dark black oil coming out. After putting everything back together the tick is completely gone. This is not an atypical either, many have done this. Subaru didn't have a hard cutoff of motor design between 96/97 (and other changeovers as well) for specific model years - it was based off of the build date and even then I don't know when that was. Your MY97 could have been built in the summer of 96' and have all the same components as a MY96 EJ22 with HLA just like mine. Best way to tell is to pop the 3 bolts on the pass side cover and check. If you see the adjustment nut and screw slot you know you have SLA and not HLA. To answer your question, yes SLA can sound quite loud. If many are out of adjustment than it can sound like a sewing machine, if only a few or one than it can mimic a rod knock just like a HLA can. Does yours go away after being warmed up? When was the last time you changed the oil? Having any power loss or HG issues? Do you remember the timeline for which the tick developed? Anything noticeable precede the sound?
  8. It doesn't matter too much which 2 pots you get (pre 2005), they'll all "work" the same. There are different sizes for different years/makes though. The WRX are 11.3" if I recall correctly - you can get outback 2 pots from either late 2001 build or 2002+ and they're 12" I think. The gen 1 outback and GT are, as Brighton said, 10.9" as opposed to our 10.2" and dual piston. WRX/Forester/OB/Leg are plentiful and easy to swap on. Your 16" WRX wheels will clear all of them.
  9. Yes, but its worth it to check the valves right? Do you have a stethoscope?
  10. I went to a 16" WRX rim with 205/55 tires and they're just perfect for me. My L isn't underpowered at all with them and I get incredible MPG. 7.5" wide wheel I hope you have proper offset. The wrx wheels are 6.5" wide and they're 55 offset and wouldn't accommodate much more width without dropping the offset to something like 45 or less. I think 205 would be about as thing a tire as you could run on a 7.5" wide wheel anyhow so you may be limited in tire selection.
  11. Not in that the car will feel differently to you, just longevity. NGK V power copper is a great (cheaper) choice; if you need to save that $10 than do so knowing that you're not sacrificing anything really other than your time. You can expect about twice the life from a platinum plug vs copper; a little more (perhaps) for iridium but I have only heard/read that, I've never sprung for them myself and had the experience.
  12. My L had the wiring for the lights and the tweeters just taped up.
  13. https://shop.exedyusa.com/exedy-oem/exedy-oem-replacement-clutch-kit/15010/i-125830.aspx 15010 is the Exedy part number you want.
  14. If you're mechanically inclined and want to diagnose then you'll have to take that route; otherwise any subaru mechanic can help you with that quickly. The 2.2 is not a common motor to pop HG's on but it does happen about as frequently as any other really high mileage japanese (reliable) motor depending on conditions/maintenance. I'd recommend downloading a factory service manual digitally and doing a little reading on HG's to see what you may be getting into. Do you know where the coolant is coming from? What conditions exist when this happens? It's a lot harder to cool an EJ motor properly in back of a VW, has the motor been overheated?
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