ehsnils Posted November 17, 2018 Share Posted November 17, 2018 Just don't forget an override switch to force them on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted November 18, 2018 Share Posted November 18, 2018 Did my first test drive today this evening and had a semi-strange thing happened: my HID positive wire is hooked up to the V+ of the USDM harness. The HID ground is connected directly to the car chassis. So, I assumed that I essentially disconnected them from the DRL module. All my testing were done with the engine off, and the HIDs came on only when the combination switch was turned two notches while the key was in IG. But then this evening, when I turned on the engine, the HIDs remained on regardless of the combination switch position (essentially like DRL but no flickering). So, I had to unhook the white plug from the DRL module to stop this behavior. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted November 18, 2018 Share Posted November 18, 2018 It's probably that the DRL module gives a certain voltage drop and the HID controller is just close to the edge of activating on that voltage it gets from the DRL module. So better have it disconnected. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted November 18, 2018 Share Posted November 18, 2018 It's probably that the DRL module gives a certain voltage drop and the HID controller is just close to the edge of activating on that voltage it gets from the DRL module. So better have it disconnected. I am pretty sure that is the not case because I used a voltmeter to check the voltage, and there was none on the low beams with the key on ignition and combination switch off. But just in case, I'll recheck. Here is the FSM page for reference. It does not show everything but still. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ehsnils Posted November 19, 2018 Share Posted November 19, 2018 Notice that the voltage drop included is usually just a resistor that's inline with the filament. So unless you pull current through the circuit you won't see any difference. The curse with the Subies is that they are a bit backwards too - control circuits are on the ground side of the load. Makes them a bit like the old Lucas electrical systems with positive ground. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted November 19, 2018 Share Posted November 19, 2018 Notice that the voltage drop included is usually just a resistor that's inline with the filament. That's right; that's what I understood, which is why I disconnected the HID ground from the DRL module. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05MNLGT Posted December 8, 2018 Author Share Posted December 8, 2018 (edited) pyro i don't think these post facelift headlamp can be modified to hold new cans. they are completely different then the ones you have. unless the internals of the post facelift washer lamps are different then the non washer post facelift. Edited December 8, 2018 by 05MNLGT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
utc_pyro Posted December 9, 2018 Share Posted December 9, 2018 pyro i don't think these post facelift headlamp can be modified to hold new cans. they are completely different then the ones you have. unless the internals of the post facelift washer lamps are different then the non washer post facelift. Interesting, this is actually the first set of washer headlight I’ve seen opened. They fit the non-washer version, but obviously not these! Can you post pics on what’s inside the cans? Through the bulb hole would work, or remove the lense. I want to see if there is an easy way to modify the shield at least. These look like they are based on some of the higher end koyo projectors, so may be advantageous to find a way to make them work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05MNLGT Posted December 14, 2018 Author Share Posted December 14, 2018 (edited) here are some shots. the issue is the yellow and white wire coming off the connect. it splits to the high beam and to the base of the shield inside the case where it plugs into a small box that goes into the shield (cone) itself then connects to what looks like a copper coil. Edited December 14, 2018 by 05MNLGT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05MNLGT Posted December 14, 2018 Author Share Posted December 14, 2018 pyro, nevert thought the same thing. again the high beam is 9006 HB3. I'm going to separate again and poke around in it this weekend. "Looks a lot like solenoid for a "bi-xenon" cut off. Is there a movable shield on the hid projector? Wouldn't seem to make a lot of sense as there is already a high beam." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05MNLGT Posted December 14, 2018 Author Share Posted December 14, 2018 (edited) so i think this is how i'm going to wire this. should have not cut the high beam wires. ugh. going to wire the power to the original wire that had the split. red to yellow and white to white. going to live with the JDM beam pattern. the case it just to brittle to open up again. Edited December 14, 2018 by 05MNLGT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted December 14, 2018 Share Posted December 14, 2018 Do these projectors have a shield like your previous set (or the one I own) ? If yes, is it easily accessible? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nevets27 Posted December 14, 2018 Share Posted December 14, 2018 .... I had a one of these in may hand a few days ago. I would been all for buying it and setting it all up correctly but I'm not prepared to spend the money for the whole front end swap at the moment. Holding them up to the USDM lights, they sure look very close to the same shape... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted December 14, 2018 Share Posted December 14, 2018 (edited) Holding them up to the USDM lights, they sure look very close to the same shape... True. But that front bumper bulge and grille vs. jdm/edm. Although I have to say, your car (I presume?) on your avatar looks good. Edited December 14, 2018 by xt2005bonbon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nevets27 Posted December 14, 2018 Share Posted December 14, 2018 True. Definitely like the JDM better as far as the grill and being tucked tighter to the car. But I do prefer the USDM fog light area/lower opening. Which I have seen in a JDM version. But it is a lot to basically just remove the buldge as the grills can be made to fit. Personally I really want the functionality of these headlights. 1) as soon as it gets wet during the winter the headlights get caked with salt and have a huge impact on the light output and how much the light scatters, into other drives eyes (not that most OEM's care about that here) 2) depending on the load in the car or any other reason I can make minor adjustments to the beam height to make sure the light is getting down the road and not blinding drivers. The short of it is, washers (in climates that warrent it) and the adjustable height of the HIDs are really functional features and these lights offer those features. Mating them up to a usdm bumper would allow for really nice headlight setup here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted December 14, 2018 Share Posted December 14, 2018 Agree. A member on this forum (Eivind) from Norway has mentioned to me that these headlights with washers are actually mandatory over there on all outback/legacies (which makes total sense). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Somac Posted December 14, 2018 Share Posted December 14, 2018 here are some shots. the issue is the yellow and white wire coming off the connect. it splits to the high beam and to the base of the shield inside the case where it plugs into a small box that goes into the shield (cone) itself then connects to what looks like a copper coil. Wait, the JDM facelift lights are bi-xenon HIDs? I didn't think they had a shield drop. That's great news! That copper coil is your shield drop solenoid. When you hit the high beams, it moves the shield out of the way so that the HIDs can work as both low and high beams. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05MNLGT Posted December 14, 2018 Author Share Posted December 14, 2018 Do these projectors have a shield like your previous set (or the one I own) ? If yes, is it easily accessible? good question. i don't know. i'm going to find time to look at my current set (non-washer). the wagon is in storage, behind several other cars (tight). might be awhile before i can look. vaguely recall that it didn't have the yellow and white wire, and the inside shield was different. the washer set has ribbing where as the non wash i think was smooth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05MNLGT Posted December 14, 2018 Author Share Posted December 14, 2018 (edited) Wait, the JDM facelift lights are bi-xenon HIDs? I didn't think they had a shield drop. That's great news! That copper coil is your shield drop solenoid. When you hit the high beams, it moves the shield out of the way so that the HIDs can work as both low and high beams. yes that's where we've landed, but i can only verify it on the washer headlight set. going to wirer up this weekend and test in the car. Edited December 14, 2018 by 05MNLGT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05MNLGT Posted December 14, 2018 Author Share Posted December 14, 2018 (edited) .... I had a one of these in may hand a few days ago. I would been all for buying it and setting it all up correctly but I'm not prepared to spend the money for the whole front end swap at the moment. Holding them up to the USDM lights, they sure look very close to the same shape... nope. these are post facelift headlights. much bigger than the usdm lights. the washer set was part of the post facelift. just look at those new headlights on the car. how beautiful. can the washer set lens be cleaned to be as clear as the ones in the car? Edited December 14, 2018 by 05MNLGT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05MNLGT Posted December 14, 2018 Author Share Posted December 14, 2018 (edited) True. Definitely like the JDM better as far as the grill and being tucked tighter to the car. But I do prefer the USDM fog light area/lower opening. Which I have seen in a JDM version. But it is a lot to basically just remove the buldge as the grills can be made to fit. Personally I really want the functionality of these headlights. 1) as soon as it gets wet during the winter the headlights get caked with salt and have a huge impact on the light output and how much the light scatters, into other drives eyes (not that most OEM's care about that here) 2) depending on the load in the car or any other reason I can make minor adjustments to the beam height to make sure the light is getting down the road and not blinding drivers. The short of it is, washers (in climates that warrent it) and the adjustable height of the HIDs are really functional features and these lights offer those features. Mating them up to a usdm bumper would allow for really nice headlight setup here. yes it is a hellof-alot-of-money to do the front conversion. but i love the front now. it's wider. all and all, about $3k in parts. and that's was on the cheap side because I bought the front bumper in the states. the bumper was new and unpainted and came with the headlights. I didn't know it, but the headlights were a shell. i had to add internals to it. the bumper, lights, and lower support were $1500 shipped. crash beam with foam was $500 shipped, fenders $750 shipped, mud guards $150 shipped, grill $500 shipped. the bonus to the full (front/rear) conversion is it took of 5.5in off the overall length of the car. Edited December 14, 2018 by 05MNLGT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05MNLGT Posted December 14, 2018 Author Share Posted December 14, 2018 hated the rear bumper. it would get so many scraps and nicks. the jdm is so nice short. plus i put on the STI scuff plate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nevets27 Posted December 14, 2018 Share Posted December 14, 2018 nope. these are post facelift headlights. much bigger than the usdm lights. the washer set was part of the post facelift. just look at those new headlights on the car. how beautiful. can the washer set lens be cleaned to be as clear as the ones in the car? Ah width, that's it. Had not seen the comparison from that angle, thanks. Give this a shot for hazing. Pitting is a bit harder. Not sure on that yet. I'm going to try some film. Other then that you're basically stuck with sanding and 2k clear coat. Too bad the lenses are slightly different, could have swapped the lense over otherwise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05MNLGT Posted December 14, 2018 Author Share Posted December 14, 2018 going to use cerium oxide powder. i think that should work. no pitting. just a slight bit of fog. could live with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
05MNLGT Posted December 15, 2018 Author Share Posted December 15, 2018 So knowing what you know now. Would it be easier to do a retro fit on the headlights with the washer set or that is not even an option based on the way the washer set is assembled. non washer set is easier, which i currently have on the car. if it doesn't have bi-xoen feature. i'd keep the non washer set, but i really want to build the s402 as close to the real thing as possible, which means washers. plus the washers will function. i had to spend $300 to get the tank with motor and lines. one note. doing the jdm post facelift might be easier on a 08-09 LGT. i believe the low beam works as the drl. not sure about that. for 05-07, you have to disconnect the drl under the dash in order for the HID to work properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now