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Wiring for post facelift HID lamps


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what bulb V is used for the DRL? 158/168/194? i'm going to do LED for it. that shouldn't be an issue, right?

 

going to rewire the smaller JDM signal wires to the DRL. that should bypass any issues.

 

These are the best you can buy: https://en.hiperlights.ru/cat/fronts/cf-mini

 

They have DRL mode, flash to pass mode, running light mode, and turn signal canceling. I tired a LOT of diffrent bulbs, and these were the only ones I was happy with the performance. They look like a legit OEM DRL in the daylight.

 

You can also get matching turn signal bulbs: https://en.hiperlights.ru/cat/fronts/sl

 

Finally, the projectors themselves need modification so you don't blind everyone. The quick fix is to get dropin projectors and retrofit brackets. I used the Mini D2S 4.0's, but these will work with any "G5" style projector including the iLED and MLED LED projector sets.

 

IMG_4445.thumb.jpg.4c71653f71b6516ba6051b6451c04292.jpg

 

magnusonsubie test fit these in his post facelift projectors and they'll fit just fine. https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/did-you-do-your-4th-gen-legacy-todayi-vol-8-267622.html?p=5760929#post5760929

 

If you have access to a CNC, waterjet, or 3D printer I can send you the files for the adapters.

 

Per your question via PM: "IGG+" is just a generic term for the electrical bus that comes on the the ignition set to "ON". I got it from the OP connector and built a logic circuit that made it work the same as the OEM DRL module works (Generator signal to on & parking break off = enabled). If you don't want to go to that level of hassle, just using the +V off the 3-pin headlight connector should also work.

Edited by utc_pyro
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Well damn. I spent a ton of time designing my own brackets. Where were these a few months ago? Assuming that they fit a post facelift usdm headlight, which the brackets I made do.

 

If post and pre facelift are the same this could have saved me many many hours. Guess it doesn't matter now.

 

I didn't know anyone had retrofited D2S's. I guess it's not so unique now. Happy with the output though.

 

I guess its at least nice to know there is brackets that allow the D2S's to fit into jdm post facelift headlights. Which I'm interested in moving to eventually. Should have probably went to straight to them but still learning.

 

Would like to see a picture of those LEDs in the post facelift used for drl.

Edited by nevets27
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These are the best you can buy: https://en.hiperlights.ru/cat/fronts/cf-mini

 

They have DRL mode, flash to pass mode, running light mode, and turn signal canceling. I tired a LOT of diffrent bulbs, and these were the only ones I was happy with the performance. They look like a legit OEM DRL in the daylight.

 

 

How tricky is that to wire up?

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Finally, the projectors themselves need modification so you don't blind everyone. The quick fix is to get dropin projectors and retrofit brackets. I used the Mini D2S 4.0's, but these will work with any "G5" style projector including the iLED and MLED LED projector sets.

 

[ATTACH]266200[/ATTACH]

 

magnusonsubie test fit these in his post facelift projectors and they'll fit just fine. https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/did-you-do-your-4th-gen-legacy-todayi-vol-8-267622.html?p=5760929#post5760929

 

If you have access to a CNC, waterjet, or 3D printer I can send you the files for the adapters.

 

yes, please send me the files. i'll pm.

 

why do the lamps need modification so they don't blind?

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How tricky is that to wire up?

 

Corner marker and turn signal shutoff are easy, they are already these on the turn signal connector.

 

DRL is as easy or difficult as you want to make it. You can just use the heat light positive, or build something with logic like i did. The guy selling the bulbs has DRL control module based on battery voltage (it’s higher when alternator is running).

 

High/flash to pass mode requires signal inversion as our stock is negative triggered. I built a relay box, but a cheap HID relay harness from eBay would also do the job. If you’re not in a hurry he can program the bulb to be negative triggered to reduce wiring, but he has to build a new set instead of pulling it off the shelf.

 

 

why do the lamps need modification so they don't blind?

 

Because the projected pattern is different.

 

JDM: ——\___

USDM: ___/——

 

The lower side is toward oncoming traffic. If you run the JDM ones adjusted high enough to see for highway driving, the high side will be right in the eyes of oncoming traffic.

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got it. i'm going to meet with a racing friend who does the wiring for the race team. we are going to review your input and see where we go. i might pull the lamps off this winter and build them.
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just thought about something. my goal is to do the washer lamp version. i don't think i want to waste the time working with the cases if it's not the true end in mind. i can still work on the wiring of the plug/harness. utc do you know if LHD washer lamps were made for the EDM? i might have to blind people until sept, when the car goes into storage.
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just thought about something. my goal is to do the washer lamp version. i don't think i want to waste the time working with the cases if it's not the true end in mind. i can still work on the wiring of the plug/harness. utc do you know if LHD washer lamps were made for the EDM? i might have to blind people until sept, when the car goes into storage.

 

Any upgrades you do to this set of lights will be easy to transfer to the washer version. Think of it as your time to experiment. And if you screw anything up, you were planing on using a diffrent housing anyway!

 

They did make EDM washer HID's in LHD. I'd convert the projector anyway though, the stock one is lacking without significant modifications (custom hand tuned shield, clear lens, and lens spacing shimming).

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Any upgrades you do to this set of lights will be easy to transfer to the washer version. Think of it as your time to experiment. And if you screw anything up, you were planing on using a diffrent housing anyway!

 

They did make EDM washer HID's in LHD. I'd convert the projector anyway though, the stock one is lacking without significant modifications (custom hand tuned shield, clear lens, and lens spacing shimming).

 

funny. i was thinking as i hit submit reply btn, why not just build it as a prototype. good to know that the transfer isn't bad. i'll probably store or sell once the washer ones are done.

 

perfect, just what i need to know on the LHD washers. makes complete sense to just upgrade the cans in the washers ones.

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FYI the D2S's really do well with a shield drop. And many like to make the step less dramatic.

 

The G5-R is has a bit better output due to a different shield. It is pretty much the same as a D2S with a shield drop.

 

No first hand experience with the G5-R. I have modded the D2S. And depending on personal preference a foreground limiter is also a good idea.

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so to avoid issues with the DRL until i get the DF minis in, can i just remove bulbs or cut and tape? remember, i'm a lot more dumb then you all.

 

love the bay completely painted wrb, looks like it's from the factory. so glad i pulled the engine and stuff to paint.

IMG_7412.JPG.5dee6667acd601b0ca1dfa7e96039b2a.JPG

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so to avoid issues with the DRL until i get the DF minis in, can i just remove bulbs or cut and tape? remember, i'm a lot more dumb then you all.

 

You can just leave the bulb holder in there even without a bulb and it wont hurt anything.

 

are these the brackets that have to be made?

 

The greenish yellow part. If you can open the files I sent you in a cad program it makes a lot more sence. They extend the G5/MiniD2S projector's mounting holes to match the OEM ones.

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You can just leave the bulb holder in there even without a bulb and it wont hurt anything.

 

The greenish yellow part. If you can open the files I sent you in a cad program it makes a lot more sence. They extend the G5/MiniD2S projector's mounting holes to match the OEM ones.

 

the issue is i can't open the file, no CAD software. the cnc shop has the file and i think they've got it figured out. can you export as a .pdf or .ai (adobe illustrator vector) or even a screen grab? that way i can see what it looks like. if not, no biggy.

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  • 2 weeks later...
ok folks. need help on the wiring part for the DRLs. Here is my diagram of what i've done, which doesn't work. looking for input on what needs to be done to get the DRLs to work? Note, i know a little bit about wiring, but curious about how to do this.

292793712_ScreenShot2018-07-11at2_15_46PM.thumb.png.2b082a797f3e1908c190409e7ebd36b9.png

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  • 3 weeks later...

If I May Contribute:

 

Just wired up my BP9 lights. The sidemarkers are straightforward enough to anyone who would be attempting this. The wiring for the lo/hi beams is a little more complicated.

 

I used an aftermarket 3 prong male/female harness to make everything tidier. (neglected to take pics, but can provide if someone really needed it)

 

Wiring for BP9 harness to stock BP5 harness is as follows:

 

Drivers Side:

BP9 Red to BP5 BlackRed for Power

BP9 Black to BP5 YellowWhite for Low Beam Toggle

(third prong reserved for Hi-Beam toggle, power shared in splice to BP5 BlackRed)

 

Passenger Side

BP9 Red to BP5 RedGreen for power

BP9 Black to BP5 YellowBlue for Low Beam Toggle

(same mating of hi-beam splice as done on drivers side)

 

I went straight off the ballast with the HID wiring, but that was just my way of keeping things clean on the back end)

 

 

My instructions may only make sense if you're in the middle of actually wiring these things up, so dont be afraid to dig in and then consult these notes LOL

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If I May Contribute:

 

Just wired up my BP9 lights. The sidemarkers are straightforward enough to anyone who would be attempting this. The wiring for the lo/hi beams is a little more complicated.

 

I used an aftermarket 3 prong male/female harness to make everything tidier. (neglected to take pics, but can provide if someone really needed it)

 

Wiring for BP9 harness to stock BP5 harness is as follows:

 

Drivers Side:

BP9 Red to BP5 BlackRed for Power

BP9 Black to BP5 YellowWhite for Low Beam Toggle

(third prong reserved for Hi-Beam toggle, power shared in splice to BP5 BlackRed)

 

Passenger Side

BP9 Red to BP5 RedGreen for power

BP9 Black to BP5 YellowBlue for Low Beam Toggle

(same mating of hi-beam splice as done on drivers side)

 

I went straight off the ballast with the HID wiring, but that was just my way of keeping things clean on the back end)

 

 

My instructions may only make sense if you're in the middle of actually wiring these things up, so dont be afraid to dig in and then consult these notes LOL

 

thanks johnny for taking the time to write this up. so does the DRL come on during the day? when i tested mine, the DRL came on with the headlights and i gave up, was too tired to resolve.

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