solidxsnake Posted June 2, 2018 Share Posted June 2, 2018 The current motor in my '07 spec.B is on its way out (I think it's a head issue, worn valve guides/seals), and in the interest of getting it back up and running soon and cheap, I'm wondering what difficulties I'd run in to with swapping in an '05-'06 longblock into it. I know the heads are different and don't have the air-pump, but otherwise I'm not sure what I'd need to worry about. I don't want to swap ECUs, so I'm mostly worried about wiring... are the harnesses plug-and-play? Will I be able to use the fueling setup (top-feed) from my car on the earlier longblock? Are there any different sensors that don't exist on the earlier ones that are required on the later ones? Haven't found much information on this sort of swap, so looking to ping the minds of anyone here who can help me out. I should add, I'm not worried about reliability too much. It's not my daily, and I intend to keep the old long-block to rebuild it. I'm aware I'll need to re-tune as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
utc_pyro Posted June 2, 2018 Share Posted June 2, 2018 If you swap your intake manifold (TGV’s up) it’s plug and play electrically. All the stuff on the actual block should be cross comparable. The changes were related to top feed injectors, TGV wireing, a second evap solenoid, adding air pumps, ect. If you’re already done the air pump delete you’re pretty much good to go. If not, now is the time to do it. This is mechanicaly plug and play as well. You’d just unbolt the TGV’s from the old block and transfer the entire intake manifold assembaly to your new block. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 3, 2018 Share Posted June 3, 2018 X2 ^ 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted February 27, 2019 Share Posted February 27, 2019 Not answering your questions, but what is really wrong right now on your engine? misfires? excessive oil consumption? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solidxsnake Posted February 27, 2019 Author Share Posted February 27, 2019 Not answering your questions, but what is really wrong right now on your engine? misfires? excessive oil consumption? Large puff of smoke at cold startup. During heavy load, massive oil consumption and smoke shows (last autocross, it went through a quart in 3 runs), rough idling and starting. I'm fairly certain it's worn valve guides, because if I just drive the car and keep it out of vacuum, it runs pretty much fine, e.g. on the highway. Doesn't seem to be low on power when in boost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted February 27, 2019 Share Posted February 27, 2019 Did you check your turbo seals? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted February 28, 2019 Share Posted February 28, 2019 ^^^ This Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solidxsnake Posted February 28, 2019 Author Share Posted February 28, 2019 I haven't, but I wouldn't think that would cause rough idling and poor low-end performance. Also, the turbo (JmP VF46 custom) only has 30-40k miles on it. That as simple as checking for shaft play, or more involved? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxkita Posted February 28, 2019 Share Posted February 28, 2019 Kip had a "brand new" turbo that failed in 2 laps. The seals failed. Ymmv Build my car Boxkita Track days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted February 28, 2019 Share Posted February 28, 2019 mmh. You have a jpm. Then that'd be strange if the seals would fail that quick. But it does not hurt to check. I guess you could always drop the downpipe 'real quick' and check the hot side for the presence of oil. My guess is that it should be pretty obvious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solidxsnake Posted February 28, 2019 Author Share Posted February 28, 2019 Last time I had the DP off (maybe 1-5k miles at most before I stopped driving the car, well after the excessive smoking and higher consumption started), there wasn't any appreciable play in the turbine, or any oil residue in the hot-side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted February 28, 2019 Share Posted February 28, 2019 Find a set of same engine heads, have them completely re-done and all parts sitting ready including gaskets, head studs, and timing, jerk the engine, swap the heads, and put it back in. 3 days if you're diligent and stay on it. If you replace your heads with same fresh heads, you shouldn't need a re-tune, unless there is more wrong with the engine. Sell the old heads and make back part of your money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted February 28, 2019 Share Posted February 28, 2019 Last time I had the DP off (maybe 1-5k miles at most before I stopped driving the car, well after the excessive smoking and higher consumption started), there wasn't any appreciable play in the turbine, or any oil residue in the hot-side. OK. Did you check for excessive blow-by too? How does the throttle body hose look like? Light oil film or 'large' puddle? Did you also check the spark plugs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solidxsnake Posted March 1, 2019 Author Share Posted March 1, 2019 Find a set of same engine heads, have them completely re-done and all parts sitting ready including gaskets, head studs, and timing, jerk the engine, swap the heads, and put it back in. 3 days if you're diligent and stay on it. If you replace your heads with same fresh heads, you shouldn't need a re-tune, unless there is more wrong with the engine. Sell the old heads and make back part of your money. My plan at the moment is to just swap in the other longblock I bought, and eventually build the one that comes out. I don't mind re-tuning Blowby seems a bit much, but it's not puddles. PCV is new, didn't make any difference. Everything seems to point to valve guides/seals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted March 1, 2019 Share Posted March 1, 2019 how about the spark plugs? And when you said it ran rough at cold idle, were you getting high misfire counts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solidxsnake Posted March 1, 2019 Author Share Posted March 1, 2019 how about the spark plugs? And when you said it ran rough at cold idle, were you getting high misfire counts? No, no misfires. Haven't checked plugs but will when I pull the motor. It runs fine at cold idle, never said otherwise. It just smokes a little bit at startup (see below). Coming back to idle when warm is a little rough, and warm cranking isn't great either. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hduvZ_BFdYc]SMOOOOKE - YouTube[/ame] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted March 1, 2019 Share Posted March 1, 2019 I assumed when you said 'rough idling', it was after startup. no misfires huh. It's strange that your valve seals would fail. I actually don't recall hearing such an issue on the forum. Or I may have missed it. How many miles does your engine have? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solidxsnake Posted March 1, 2019 Author Share Posted March 1, 2019 I assumed when you said 'rough idling', it was after startup. no misfires huh. It's strange that your valve seals would fail. I actually don't recall hearing such an issue on the forum. Or I may have missed it. How many miles does your engine have? Worn valve guides aren't super uncommon (plenty of examples on NASIOC). Motor's got 166k or so on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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