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Rear hub/bearing assembly seized, so let's just change the knuckle


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Hey all, my driver's side rear wheel bearing has been making noise for years and it's gotten worse lately so I've decided it's high time to change it. I tried all the usual tricks (endless soaking, air hammer from the back, sledgehammer, begging) and it's gotten me nowhere. Since the rear knuckle isn't really that bad to replace, I figured I can just slap a new one in. Unfortunately I can't seem to find one used. Does anyone know if there's any crossover with other models? I have an 05 GT Limited.
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305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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Call a local junk yard, they can get you most any part, they will go on the web and find it for you. May take a couple day's but yards around here do that.

 

Or have any junk yard ship it to you.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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It comes out with persuasion. I think I resorted to a hammer and a 2x4 or something of the sort on mine. You have to break it free of the rust. I think I took the hammer and board to the studs and worked around the 5 studs a few hits at a time. Once it's out, you will want to wire brush the rust off of the bore to make inserting the new one easier.
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Where in MD? Paradise salvage is in Cecil County and LKQ is all over the place in MD. I'd be surprised if LKQ didn't have a knuckle.

 

Have you tried using a slide hammer? PB blaster and a 3 lb mini sledge hammer usually get them loose for me.

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Yeah the thing ain't coming out. I've slide hammered it until my ears ring and sledgehammered it until my hands ring. And LKQ probably does have something, but as far as I can tell from car-part I need a knuckle from another 05, which is why I came here to see if anyone knew of any interchange choices so I can widen my search
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Shop press is an option but Im not sure where I'd be able to press it without damaging the backing plate. Unfortunately while I do have access to a press I'd have to do it myself. The other thing is that a new bearing is more expensive than having a used knuckle shipped from California
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I assume you sprayed it with PB Blaster and let it do its thing for about 20 minutes. Mine was pretty hard to get the left rear out but after a while the PB Blaster helped a lot.

 

I posted pictures in the DIY thread years back.

 

I now use Aero-Kroil, its much better then the PB.

 

 

see links in here,

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/diy-rear-wheel-bearing-replacement-walk-through-w-pdf-188666.html

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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I didn’t hesitate to change the whole thing for a little amount of time and money I put the whole assembly, hard part are the four bolts holding the hub assembly but after that it will be plug & play. Taking off that bearing itself will give you another pain in the a*s.

d39324c388389a250834c310e848ef77.jpg

9589d7d3a474acb3a59c6815bc02f770.jpg

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I didn’t hesitate to change the whole thing for a little amount of time and money I put the whole assembly, hard part are the four bolts holding the hub assembly but after that it will be plug & play. Taking off that bearing itself will give you another pain in the a*s.

d39324c388389a250834c310e848ef77.jpg

9589d7d3a474acb3a59c6815bc02f770.jpg

 

You are absolutely correct - the hub assemblies are so inexpensive that it does not make sense to replace bearings. The OP is talking about the replacing the casting these go into since they cannot separate the hub assembly. It can be a royal pain to get the hub assembly out, as shown by the rust in your photo!

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