ZMAN24250 Posted May 11, 2020 Author Share Posted May 11, 2020 Weekend Update Major fabrication weekend. Finally got the exhaust done! Also made and modified a hand full of brackets so the vacuum pump fits, the ballast resistor has somewhere to go, power steering reservoir is located, and coolant overflow pipe exists. Also, I want to document that in the wiring process, no where can I specifically find what Pin 23 does on connector B137 for the ECU (red wire with blue stripe). However, I found one thread about clearing code P1446 (https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1183535) that mentions this wire so I'm 99% sure it's for the fuel tank vacuum switching valve. Apparently '03s+ have this. My options are to A) cut it out an hope the tuner can disable this, B) place an appropriate resistor in its place, or C) extract the valve out of the donor wire it up and tuck it under the dash. With any luck, wiring will be next weekends project... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMAN24250 Posted May 14, 2020 Author Share Posted May 14, 2020 (edited) Walbro 255 lpm fuel pump in. Finalizing wiring cheat sheet for what wires need spliced, removed, or cut and kept. I will be sure to link that sheet in this thread when it is finished. I also reviewed my splicing sheet and plan of attack with a second set of eyes and caught a few things I didn't see the first time. New soldering iron (hakko fx-888D, would recommend) has been ordered and should be here for the merging weekend. Edited May 14, 2020 by ZMAN24250 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMAN24250 Posted May 20, 2020 Author Share Posted May 20, 2020 It runs!!! It turns out Im not great at documenting as Im working... I kinda get in a wrenching gear and dont think to take progress pictures until after Ive done things. To sum it up: Harness has been merged Fog lights have been added to the harness AVCS wires were installed Wire harness has been installed Fuel pump controller has been installed Car runs!! Bulkhead harness installed: Some of the harness was a little short so I ended up having to tug and manipulate stuff to get it to work. I also installed the fuel pump controller in a factory(ish) location, back behind the right rear strut tower. I figure the factory put it back there for a reason. I probably could have tucked it under the dash but six one way, half a dozen the other... The exhaust sounds exactly what I was going for, nice and mellow. There does seem to be a small exhaust leak I think too.. It also seems down on boost, Im only getting like 5 psi.. but I also dont trust this gauge so Ill have to hunt that problem down. Another problem is my code reader wont communicate with the ecu. I believe this to be the fact that I have to move some pins around in the data link connector, but this need research. But it runs! Gauges work, fans work, just about everything seems to work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublechaz Posted May 20, 2020 Share Posted May 20, 2020 Awesome! I bet that feels great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Das Ninjabot Posted May 21, 2020 Share Posted May 21, 2020 Way to go man, that's awesome! Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMAN24250 Posted May 23, 2020 Author Share Posted May 23, 2020 Thanks guys! It does feel pretty great knowing I did it myself. Just ordered new fenders and in the process of stripping paint off the bumper cover and scoop. They looked very tired and fenders were rusted out so the car wont be fully put back together for awhile. Boost is there now! I think it was just because I was looking at boost in 1st/2nd gear. You get it on the road and middle of 3rd gear I got .09ish MPa (13ish psi) so everything seems good in that region. Also need to put new output shaft seals on the gearbox in; found giant puddles of gear oil. Another thing I need to investigate is why when I plug my obdII reader in and go to look at the live data, all I see is DTC_CNT (how many error codes there are). I dont see any readouts for any of the sensors... Im not sure if the ecu may have been tuned before and thats why... or maybe something wasnt wired right to the data link connector.... Any thoughts/experience is appreciated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poosh Posted May 24, 2020 Share Posted May 24, 2020 Damn! Congratulations on getting the motor in and having dealt with all that wiring. This is something I've toyed with the idea of for a couple years. It's always just seemed so daunting, but this thread with your efforts are making it seem less so! Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMAN24250 Posted June 5, 2020 Author Share Posted June 5, 2020 Thanks, Poosh! It really wasnt too bad looking back on it and I definitely know what to change for next time. But Im not out of the woods yet... Were starting to get into the thick of it now boys... She was getting real tired on the front and rear bumper paint. Plus the rust is getting out of hand. Time for some rust repair and bodywork Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMAN24250 Posted June 9, 2020 Author Share Posted June 9, 2020 SO. MUCH. SANDING. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Das Ninjabot Posted June 9, 2020 Share Posted June 9, 2020 What are you going to use to repair any problem spots? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted June 9, 2020 Share Posted June 9, 2020 What are you going to use to repair any problem spots?According to the paint society youtube channel, it seems the best would be to use 100ez epoxy for fixing cracks and polyflex for the filler. If you haven't checked out the show, it's really good and the lead painter, Brian, does a fantastic job explaining the "how to". https://www.amazon.com/Lord-Fusor-Plastic-Adhesive-FUS-100EZ/dp/B000ZJXB5W https://www.amazon.com/Fibreglass-Evercoat-411-Poly-Flex-Polyester/dp/B000P6US6A Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMAN24250 Posted June 10, 2020 Author Share Posted June 10, 2020 (edited) So for any of the fairly deformed spots im going to get the heat gun and see if I cant persuade them back closer to where theyre supposed to be. There are some dings and gouges that will need filled. Thanks rhino for the suggestion on the filler! I was just going to use regular filler but Ill investigate what I have vs the suggestion. Else, I think we are going to use some high fill primer and see if we can get the rest of the imperfections out. Also since having to move the car around without the muffler (vband clamp FTW) it sounds majestic. Im toying the idea of putting an exhaust cutout after the resonator so I can be loud if I want and fairly tame for normal commuting. Edited June 10, 2020 by ZMAN24250 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublechaz Posted June 10, 2020 Share Posted June 10, 2020 I've been toying with the idea of a cutout so I can quiet it down for long trips. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BattleOrca Posted June 12, 2020 Share Posted June 12, 2020 Awesome build! This is exactly what I want to do to my 30th Wagon I snagged in Dec. Unfortunately my rear passenger door is trashed, got another door from a white 96 L wagon but I'm worried about paint matching... Anyways can't wait to see more! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Das Ninjabot Posted June 12, 2020 Share Posted June 12, 2020 Zman, what is the Dodge in the exhaust pic? I'm guessing '72ish Dart by the reflector... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMAN24250 Posted June 14, 2020 Author Share Posted June 14, 2020 Thats my '74 Duster! (And my buddy's '70 valiant behind mine) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMAN24250 Posted June 14, 2020 Author Share Posted June 14, 2020 Into the rust repair wormhole we go! Big OOF.... I hate living in the salt belt.... The keen will also note that there is a whole on the inside of the strut tower too... This is drivers side. have to do it all on the passenger side too. Time to order up some welding supplies and get my Miller actually behaving. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMAN24250 Posted June 17, 2020 Author Share Posted June 17, 2020 New JDM ecu arrived today. Plugged it in and seems to be running well. Error codes came up for tumble generator equipment of which there is none on this engine. I guess I'll have to live with the code till I get it tuned. But I should have functional AVCS now! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMAN24250 Posted June 20, 2020 Author Share Posted June 20, 2020 Sorry guys, I forgot to upload my cheat sheet! Got wrapped up in the rest of the build. This is what I have at this time and have updated it with notes I made during the splicing. This splicing was for a 1999 legacy L 30th anniversary California model and a 2003 USDM WRX. It may be different for different years and if yours was not a california model. If anyone finds something wrong, let me know!PIN cheet sheet.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMAN24250 Posted June 25, 2020 Author Share Posted June 25, 2020 A nice little JDM package showed up in the mail today! Shout out again to @PingPong for the JDM goodies! I dont think I'm going to end up using everything I got in this deal, but there are a few things I've been searching for and some were happy surprises. I like the door grab handles, but being from a RHD car, the switches for the front are on the wrong side and there isn't any way to easily move them around. However, I do like the switches way more than the USDM ones. Only thing I can think to do is modify the USDM switch housing to make the door grab bars work. Idk, were going to wait till rust repair and paint is done first. Side marker lights Ive been looking out for, the center console with the little tray in front of the shifter is a happy find! I love that little tray! I'm not sure if i'm going to keep the spats... it seems they need side skirts to work and i don't have those. But first is to fix rust and to get everything painted. Still cutting steel back to find a solid foundation. First time I've really attempted rust repair. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Das Ninjabot Posted June 25, 2020 Share Posted June 25, 2020 Nice! If you don't end up using the spats, I know someone who would likely buy them off of you... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMAN24250 Posted June 27, 2020 Author Share Posted June 27, 2020 (edited) Have them hit me up! I'm undecided but I can be convinced easily! Haha Edited July 20, 2020 by ZMAN24250 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMAN24250 Posted July 20, 2020 Author Share Posted July 20, 2020 Work continues... a lot of sanding and body work still to do. Also, I now have an air diverter for the hood scoop. I had to modify it pretty heavily. It came off the wrx and didn't exactly bolt up. I cut the perimeter off the block off plate that was there and chiseled down the wrx one until it fit in that perimeter. Also had to shrink the diverter scoop size. I still have to make a few patches and finish weld everything but I'm pretty happy how everything turned out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZMAN24250 Posted August 5, 2020 Author Share Posted August 5, 2020 Just keep digging... Left rear strut tower. Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublechaz Posted August 5, 2020 Share Posted August 5, 2020 I hope you watched some Aaron Cake before you got into this... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now