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Redoing timing


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Ok, so I've determined I need to replace my timing belt tensioner, no big deal. During my process of taking off the crank pulley, I caused the belt to skip a few teeth. Not sure how many. But now I can't seem to get the pulleys to line up.

 

Am I over thinking this or do I simply take the belt off, move each pulley into the correct location and then put the belt back on? Or is there something I am missing.

 

Thanks in advance.

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If only the crank cog was the one that skipped teeth, wouldn't I just need to reset that one, assuming I'm able to hold the cam gears in place?

I did find the vacation diagrams, and will be following them.

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http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/replacing-timing-belt-94193.html?t=94193

 

see post # 26 for pictures, they may help. other post there may help too.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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Driver's side cams are under tension at TDC. You need to align all 4 cam gears. Each gear has a double"ll"hash mark and they must be pointed directly at each other. Install and aligned directly with their respective neighbor-top gear pointed down and bottom gear pointed up on each side. It's difficult to hold the DS cams in place without a special tool but it can be done-i've probably put a dozen belts on that way before I bought the Company 23 tool. You also must make sure crank trigger/gear is aligned correctly before starting.

Leave PS idler pulley off and feed belt from crank around PS cams across to DS cams and arount to idler pulleys/tensioner and back to crank. Install PS idler and pull the pin on tensioner. Roll over about 3 times manually and make sure all 4 "ll" marks line up at the same time with crank trigger/pulley. Put the crank pulley on, start it and run for 15 seconds, shut it off, and remove crank pulley, install timing covers and button it up.

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I'd recommend getting some metal clothes pin style clamps to hold the belt at the right spot on the two gears on the on tensioned side (passenger?). Then you need to move the dr side gears into space and hold them that way. If you get them just right they will stay put, however even the slightest bump can cause them to snap out of place. So I'd recommend the company 23 tool.
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Once the crank pulley is at tdc(pistons midstroke) the passenger side cams don't need to move. Driver side intake cam needs to be turned clockwise, then exhaust counter clockwise. This is best done with bottom left idler pulley off. If you take the tension off the 2 cams by removing the belt, they will spring back to a closed valve position.

 

 

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

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When I was doing my timing belt, I didn't have anything to keep the gears from moving so what I did was take it off, leave the pin in the new tensioner and took out the Tony roller, and used a paint pen to mark the belt lines (white alignment guys on top) around the edge of the belt and then used alligator clips to hold the alignment on the left pulleys, then the top right, and finally the bottom right. For the right two you can sorta "balance" the gear at the top of the cam a little and hold it in place with an Allen key in the gear, and then align the bottom right as close as possible and while the belt is still loose you can use another Allen key to turn the bottom right gear and skip a tooth if needed. I then used my phone's camera to double check all the marks were dead on and added the final tensioner and released the pin. No special tools needed.

 

I'm a shade tree mechanic though so take my advice as a grain of salt.

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Just to be clear, TDC means top dead center, which is different than having the piston mid-stroke. When you follow the FSM instructions for timing belt removal, the pistons are indeed at mid-stroke (hashmark on crankshaft pulley, NOT the arrow, lined up with mark on the block). So the good news is that however you spin the camshafts, the valves cannot hit the pistons.
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