wrxwhit Posted January 13, 2018 Share Posted January 13, 2018 As some of you have seen in “what did you buy for you Legacy” thread, I found a used (81k mile) VF54 out of Wisconsin(Rhine Auto Inc.) and have them shipping directly to BNR. Haven’t even seen the turbo so hopefully the housing is in good shape. I woke up Monday Jan 8th about 5am to go to work and as I was showering decided I was going stage 3. This hasn’t crossed my mind in years so no clue what came over me lol! Also, I kept telling myself I wouldn’t ever upgrade the turbo with reliability in mind do to horrible experiences with my old bugeye blowing rings and heads on multiple builds, thousands of dollars and a real pissed off wife. The 10’ just hit 55k with zero leaks or driveability issues running stage 2+ with a Bren tuned 281whp 366tq mustang dyno for the past 4 years. The goal is to surpass 300whp and gain more top end and sacrifice a bit on the low end. Talked to Trey at BNR going over options and they only make the 20g with the billet CW and 18g is cast. I haven’t had a chance to ask why so maybe someone can chime in here. I’ve researched billet vs cast CW’s and seems there’s no difference in performance besides billet being shinier and a bit stronger. The design of the wheel makes the biggest overall difference in performance and efficiency from my readings. Feel a little better after researching as as the 20g won’t be very useable without cams etc. and I am rarely on the highway. Decided on ID1050x suggested by tuner and would love to run e85, but closest station is over a half hr away which makes zero sense. So now I’m contemplating meth injection. Pro’s: -colder charge = more power -readily available (vp racing dealer close by) Cons: -more money spent [emoji20] -pump failure could be detrimental to engine in full boost -increased boost pressure equals head lift, ring failure, tranny strain etc... Install (what I need): - new turbo to side pipe studs even though I’ve replaced once with side pipe install. -new turbo to side pipe gasket -new turbo shield protector (mines heavily rusted). Remember seeing a purple powder coated in classifieds. Not sure if someone ever purchased that. I assume so, was like 2 years ago. -racer x chargepipe to turbo RTV, well that’s at least what I used. Anyone else use a metal or fiber gasket or is RTV ok. I think it’s still holding up but do notice my boost has dropped a few PSI over the past 4 years so need to figure out if there’s a leak there or somewhere. Anything else you guys can think of with the turbo install, feel free to chime in please! Want everything on hand in case of issues. Once I have all parts in hand last decision is getting the car tuned in the winter with snow tires on the car or wait till early spring with performance tires in place. Not sure this will matter too much with power loss... getting antsy though but don’t feel like swapping back and forth, just no time. Will of course have a dyno video and plot to match up to all others here with same or similar setups. Bren made pretty good power on the stock turbo so hopefully we will see a decent increase with he BNR 18g!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted January 13, 2018 Share Posted January 13, 2018 I would strongly consider ARP studs and some fresh headgaskets, before you're forced into it. I purposely had my tune turned down because of that concern. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jojorios Posted January 13, 2018 Share Posted January 13, 2018 Did you decide on the fuel lines/fpr? Maybe since your doing injectors do TGV's as well since your right there? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zee199969 Posted January 13, 2018 Share Posted January 13, 2018 I would strongly consider a primitive racing skidplate and you can delete the turbo heatshield altogether My "Build" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadow_419 Posted January 13, 2018 Share Posted January 13, 2018 Love my primitive plate. Worth every penny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrxwhit Posted January 13, 2018 Author Share Posted January 13, 2018 All excellent suggestions fellas, thanks. As far as the head studs and gaskets, will fix if problems arise for now :0. I thought about the primitive skid plate a couple years back but didn’t want the extra weight on the car, which prob isn’t that big of a difference but you know.... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zee199969 Posted January 13, 2018 Share Posted January 13, 2018 Don't think of it as extra weight. Think of it as insurance and protection for your BNR 18g Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk My "Build" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted January 13, 2018 Share Posted January 13, 2018 You can buy methanol in 5 gallon pails and it should last a decent amount of time (if you have never used meth, do not leave it unsealed as it will evaporate) I think I go through 1 gallon about every 1k miles maybe even less on my truck. It really depends on how aggressive you drive, I go WOT a couple time every time take it for drive, but I don't drive like an idiot either. I can go through a 1/4 to 1/3 gallon when I do 5 or 6 runs at the drag strip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrxwhit Posted January 14, 2018 Author Share Posted January 14, 2018 DG, I ran a snows kit in my bugeye with an FP green turbo and was quite happy with the setup. I actually still have meth from that setup sitting in a sealed container from 8 years ago lol. Not sure it’s too good anymore. Actually poured some in my mower by mistake this summer thinking it was gas. Didn’t run so good pop and locking throughout mow. In may make this boring and just roll with 93 [emoji20] for now and see how she does. Why isn’t e85 more popular around here ahhhhhhh!! I can’t wait for this to go down, too excited. Just a bit more power makes a man happy!!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrxwhit Posted January 17, 2018 Author Share Posted January 17, 2018 Folks with the Racer X charge pipe? I used “Right Stuff” RTV to seal charge pipe to the turbo. Not sure if this the best option but didn’t know if a metal or fiber gasket would be a better choice. Part numbers would be great or I could just measure the hole distance. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BBPeik Posted January 17, 2018 Share Posted January 17, 2018 I have a fiber gasket on mine, but once I had to re use it I put a tiny bit of rtv on it as well. You will prob be ok with just the rtv, but would be better with some kind of gasket. Just go to your local auto parts and buy some gasket material. It will be a super easy gasket to make. In all honesty though. IMHO though If it works now just leave it until you have a problem. My someday I will be done with it thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sarang Posted January 17, 2018 Share Posted January 17, 2018 Mr Gasket 738G Water Outlet Gasket It does fit our car (it's installed on mine) and it does the trick. Lots of WRX guys have used it too. ~$20 on Amazon and the best part is that your local Autozone probably has it on the shelf. Seriously, like out on the sales floor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted January 17, 2018 Share Posted January 17, 2018 ^^thats what I would recommend as well, and its reuseable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrxwhit Posted January 17, 2018 Author Share Posted January 17, 2018 Awesome fellas, just what I need. RTV seems to be working but that gasket will be added confidence!!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cww516 Posted January 18, 2018 Share Posted January 18, 2018 From what I recall from the instructions, it's a Chevy thermostat housing gasket, used on pretty much all of them forever. The one in the kit was paper, so I added RTV, but that Mr. Gasket piece looks pretty snazzy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
islandborn Posted January 18, 2018 Share Posted January 18, 2018 Fuel pump. Good call with the 18. I did the same logic. The rest: Depends on how crazy you want to go. TGV deletes? Cams? I opted to upgrade my fuel lines - AIGs. Addiction. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrxwhit Posted February 18, 2018 Author Share Posted February 18, 2018 BNR Just shipped out my turbo!!! Can’t wait to get it. Will post pics upon arrival which looks to be Tuesday next week. Also ordered ID1050x fuel injectors which are also coming early next week. Is it really worth doing the TGV deletes when with intake removal? What are the major benefits here as I’m not to informed on the process? Thx guys! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted February 18, 2018 Share Posted February 18, 2018 BNR Just shipped out my turbo!!! Can’t wait to get it. Will post pics upon arrival which looks to be Tuesday next week. Also ordered ID1050x fuel injectors which are also coming early next week. Is it really worth doing the TGV deletes when with intake removal? What are the major benefits here as I’m not to informed on the process? Thx guys! Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkYou get a wonky cold idle, and then better flow into the combustion chamber. And a cel, until you get it disabled in the new tune. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrxwhit Posted February 18, 2018 Author Share Posted February 18, 2018 So, worth it or not? Doesn’t appear we have any evidence of better flow especially when we are pushing smaller turbos and prob not worth it. It’s one of those why not mods while your in there. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted February 18, 2018 Share Posted February 18, 2018 I would do it, especially with the 18g upgrade. One less thing to worry about in the intake tract as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmaddocks Posted February 19, 2018 Share Posted February 19, 2018 FWIW, I asked my tuner (Dave at Cryotune), and he said it was worth doing the TGV delete while I had the engine apart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrxwhit Posted February 20, 2018 Author Share Posted February 20, 2018 Thanks guys, so what’s involved? Do I need to buy more parts or just remove existing TGV. Can’t find much info here unless someone can link me to a thread please!! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
islandborn Posted February 20, 2018 Share Posted February 20, 2018 Depends. Some shops will take your existing ones out, pull the flapper, plug the holes and whatnot to create a set out of your OEMs. Otherwise, here are the ones AWDtuning put in for me: https://www.iagperformance.com/IAG-Silver-CNC-Top-Feed-TGV-Delete-WRX-STI-LGT-FXT-p/iag-afd-3001sl.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrxwhit Posted February 22, 2018 Author Share Posted February 22, 2018 Couldn’t you just remove the flapper dapper and be done instead of shelling out $300? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrxwhit Posted February 22, 2018 Author Share Posted February 22, 2018 I did just speak to Bren and said he sees an 8-10 HP increase doing deletes. Those IAG’s look real nice! I’ll prob just grab those, but not sure if I can just cut flappers off oem Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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