shralp Posted November 9, 2017 Share Posted November 9, 2017 hey all, starting to consider swapping out my VF-46 for a BNR EVO16G in my daily driver outback XT. For those of you not up to speed on my situation, turned a rod bearing at 63K while on the dyno at Cobb Surgeline while getting off my OTS stg. 2 tune for a pro tune. They are putting in a new OEM short block and rebuilding the heads. VF-46 is presumably ok, it was boosting fine when the motor let go and they shut it down immediately. Thing is, with a essentially a new motor now and a car with low miles and in such good shape, I'm driving this thing into oblivion now and don't really want any issues down the road. Turbos just wear out eventually and I see driving this car a long time now. Not sure what else to go with other than a EVO 16G. I want similar spool for the street, won't be tracking the car, (thats what my '05 Legacy GT wagon is for) and won't be changing fueling or anything else. Not looking for huge power either. Who's running a 16G out there? Like to hear some impressions. Anyone with better ideas? Pricing on a new vf-52 is too expensive and I'd rather have the better Mitsubishi guts that the Evo has. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 9, 2017 Share Posted November 9, 2017 Just saying the 16g is not the greatest thing out there. Have your vf46 rebuilt by www.tuningalliance.com and get your next tune from him too. I think you know how both my cars run with Mike's tune. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henhead Posted November 9, 2017 Share Posted November 9, 2017 I am running an EVOIII 16g. I've had two tunes done on the turbo. Mods at the time of the first tune were DW65c pump, 850cc injectors, perrin TMIC, and catted downpipe. The car made 300whp and 310wtq at 17lbs before one of my spark plugs took a shit. So, we stopped there. I have since gotten it tuned by Tunning Alliance with a few changes. I now have an AEM 320 pump, Grimmspeed TMIC, and Grimmspeed intake as well as the other stuff mentioned above. I have no dyno numbers for this tune but we settled at about 19.5lbs. If I had to guess id say this tune probably got me another ±10-15ish whp and wtq. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WRX USA Posted November 9, 2017 Share Posted November 9, 2017 I have a low mile JMP custom VF52 with a Turbosmart wastegate actuator that I’m just about to sell. Your local so that would make things way easier. I made 290/301 on California 91 on a mustang dyno with supporting mods. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted November 9, 2017 Share Posted November 9, 2017 Running EVO3 16G, making about 50whp more at same peak boost. Much more top end then VF46. Not a fan of VF52's since IHI turbos are meant to be disposable turbos, not really rebuild-able. 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shralp Posted November 9, 2017 Author Share Posted November 9, 2017 Thanks for all the input guys keep it coming . If I had my druthers I'd probably just have JMP re-build my VF-46 with his typical tweaks and upgrades but I sounds like he's out of the game for awhile and I need to make a decision in the next 10 days or so anyway. For those of you with the 16G how would you rate spool compared to the stock turbo you came from? I'm really looking for something that is as close to a VF-46 as possible as I just want quick spool, not particularly concerned if it fall flat up top because again this is my daily not my track car. Keeping stock fueling, stock exhaust from the mid pipe back, even keeping the stock intercooler until it blows and then I'll pull the Perrin out of my track car, put a Grimmspeed in there swap the Perrin over to my daily. Also PM'ing you WRX USA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hadvw Posted November 10, 2017 Share Posted November 10, 2017 Just some rambling: I made the switch from vf40 to bnr16g. Partly because I was worried about my vf-40 dying at 60k miles - at the time, it seemed like there were 3-4 failures a week. With a 5EAT, spool is a little slower, but hits much harder. My TDC stage 2 vf-40 tune was amazing for really quick spool/passing, but the vf-40 sure fell flat around 5k. The 16g pulls hard to 7k, but is a little slower to spool. You do have to do a bit of predictive driving (i.e. predict you'll need boost, floor it, have boost ready, etc). However, I was also worried about killing my 5EAT with the extra low-end torque of the vf-40. I added a Hexmods F1 around 118k miles, now 132k miles. If JMP's modified vf-40 had been available, and I had the F1 already, I might have tried that instead. OTOH, I'm holding out hope for a Cobb flex fuel solution, because I'd really like a bit more power. Right now, car is a DD + hopefully track car at one point (but also looking for another car at some point, so the lgt becomes more a track toy, or vice versa). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JmP6889928 Posted November 10, 2017 Share Posted November 10, 2017 Covertrussian: Not a fan of VF52's since IHI turbos are meant to be disposable turbos, not really rebuild-able. Absolutely untrue. If anything, the Mitsubishi based turbos have more problems with the center bearing support housing egg shaping out the journal bearing holes by far. Most of the IHI turbos I've had apart (aside from broken shafts which destroy any turbo center support housing) have been fine to rebuild/recondition. I can tell you that every single FP and BNR turbo I've ever rebuilt required a new center support housing. It seems that even now, the new Mitsubishi based housings are still not very accurate. They do have a larger and thicker journal bearing than the IHI but they are much closer together inside the housing, which makes them less stable. With my modifications of the IHI turbos, the oiling issues are remedied and they simply work better, but the design of the IHI turbos are fine for rebuilding and making better than they were when new. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted November 10, 2017 Share Posted November 10, 2017 Thanks for all the input guys keep it coming . If I had my druthers I'd probably just have JMP re-build my VF-46 with his typical tweaks and upgrades but I sounds like he's out of the game for awhile and I need to make a decision in the next 10 days or so anyway. For those of you with the 16G how would you rate spool compared to the stock turbo you came from? I'm really looking for something that is as close to a VF-46 as possible as I just want quick spool, not particularly concerned if it fall flat up top because again this is my daily not my track car. Keeping stock fueling, stock exhaust from the mid pipe back, even keeping the stock intercooler until it blows and then I'll pull the Perrin out of my track car, put a Grimmspeed in there swap the Perrin over to my daily. Also PM'ing you WRX USA Just saying again, www.tuningalliance.com can rebuild your turbo too, might as well have one of the best tuners rebuild it. It's not like he's new to this game. Make sure to tell Mike I sent you to him. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
covertrussian Posted November 11, 2017 Share Posted November 11, 2017 Absolutely untrue. If anything, the Mitsubishi based turbos have more problems with the center bearing support housing egg shaping out the journal bearing holes by far. Most of the IHI turbos I've had apart (aside from broken shafts which destroy any turbo center support housing) have been fine to rebuild/recondition. I can tell you that every single FP and BNR turbo I've ever rebuilt required a new center support housing. It seems that even now, the new Mitsubishi based housings are still not very accurate. They do have a larger and thicker journal bearing than the IHI but they are much closer together inside the housing, which makes them less stable. With my modifications of the IHI turbos, the oiling issues are remedied and they simply work better, but the design of the IHI turbos are fine for rebuilding and making better than they were when new. Good to know, have you played around with OEM Mitsubishi turbos? I don't hear of or see sheered off turbine wheels like on VF turbos (specifically VF40). Reason I ask is both had the banjo filters and issue, just seems like VF40's would fail like that sooner. My other issue with IHI turbos is the compressor wheel to housing clearance, it's so close that even the slightly shaft play makes it contact the housing. I verified this on my VF46, VF39, and VF52. My garret turbos (for Nissan) and my 16G has a bit more clearance, so the contact possibility is greatly reduced. As for rebuild-ability, I remember reading about how IHI turbos are basically meant to be low cost disposable turbos, that's why there is no compressor maps or any useful information on them. Heck rebuild kits were not even available for them for longest time. I know Garret turbos are more expensive top of the line turbos, but I've seen and bought new Garrets for hundreds less then what IHI's sell for. 05 LGT 16G 14psi 290whp/30mpg (SOLD) 12 OBP Stock 130whp/27mpg@87 Oct 00 G20t GT28r 10psi 250whp/36mpg 22 Ascent STOCK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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