spacejam Posted September 8, 2017 Share Posted September 8, 2017 Okay, so I own a 2011 Subaru Legacy 2.5i. I'm at 102,000 miles on it. A few weeks ago my car overheated on my way home from work. I turned the heat on and drove safely home. When I got there I noticed some coolant on the bottom. No leak from the reservoir or any leak period. I drove it around after letting it cool off, and it seemed to be fine. Now this week Tuesday I was driving to class and it overheated again. I was right near an auto shop so I took it in and explained the problem. They noticed my water pump, surpentine belt, and timing belt needed replacement. I told them to go ahead since I'm over 100k miles. I also had them change the thermostat, do a radiator flush, and a pressure test. I got it back the next day and my car overheated again. I took it back in for them to fix the problem, after sticking a good chunk of change into the previous day. They found an air pocket in the cooling system and got it out the best they could. I knew it was an air pocket since my heat in the cabin of the car would go hot and then cold and then hot. They also checked the heater core as well. Well I got it back yesterday and it overheated AGAIN. I took it to advanced auto parts while my engine was still warm and got diagnostics done. He got a P0128 read, which is a coolant thermostat issue. Now they just changed the thermostat, I know that new ones can be faulty but it's rare. I took it over to my uncles since he sold me the car and knows a thing or two. We ran it idle for at least a half hour, the hoses going from the radiator to the engine and back were warm like they should be. So we took it for a drive. The blinking red light came on shortly after driving on the hwy at higher rpms. Then it came in solid, which I have seen before. We took it back to his house and checked the hoses. The hose going into the engine from the radiator was hot, but the hose going back into the radiator from the engine was ice cold. Leaving me to believe that it is a faulty thermostat, since the coolant isn't circulating in the engine. Now the heat was on and it blew hot air the entire time, no cold air was noticed. The coolant reservoir was also overfilling since the coolant was not circulating. We checked the oil to make sure there wasn't any antifreeze leaking into it. It looked fine. I took it back in today to get the thermostat replaced and hopefully get to the bottom of this issue. Does anyone have any ideas on what it may be? When it was overheating the engine sounded fine leaving me to believe it is not a gasket issue. Help!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted September 8, 2017 Share Posted September 8, 2017 I'll say head gasket. I chased a similar HG issue for a while and finally pulled the pin and got it replaced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spacejam Posted September 8, 2017 Author Share Posted September 8, 2017 My oil isn't milky and the engine sounds fine when overheating. Which leads me to believe it isn't the HG. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted September 8, 2017 Share Posted September 8, 2017 An air pocket can impair the operation of the thermostat. The air pocket means air is getting into the coolant system some how, maybe it was how they did the coolant flush, but it would make me suspicious. The most likely source is the head gasket. Not all head gaskets leak coolant to oil, some head gaskets can leak from the combustion chamber to coolant. The shop should be able to do a coolant pressure test to diagnose it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spacejam Posted September 8, 2017 Author Share Posted September 8, 2017 The shop did a coolant pressure test the first day I brought it in, the same day they repaired the water pump and belts. I'm extremely confused as to what it may. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLlegacy Posted September 8, 2017 Share Posted September 8, 2017 Run the engine up to operating temp with A.C. off and radiator cap off until the thermostat opens. This should get all the air out. What thermostat was put in? Has the cap been tested as well. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
amidroc Posted September 8, 2017 Share Posted September 8, 2017 Don't forget to check your radiator cap. I had an issue with overheating. My radiator cap rubber gasket was deformed and it wasn't allowing the coolant from the resevior to get into the engine. http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5665204&postcount=2076 check this out also https://allwheeldriveauto.com/subaru-service-seattle-check-your-radiator-cap/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted September 9, 2017 Share Posted September 9, 2017 The shop did a coolant pressure test the first day I brought it in, the same day they repaired the water pump and belts. I'm extremely confused as to what it may. So water pump, thermo had been replaced and pressure test is fine and still overheats? Try some of those other suggestions. Subaru pressure tested my system and had hydrocarb test done, nothing showed up. I changed the thermo and burping the system I would still get small bubbles in the turbo res. It was the head gaskets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NVAKeith Posted September 10, 2017 Share Posted September 10, 2017 The shop did a coolant pressure test the first day I brought it in, the same day they repaired the water pump and belts. I'm extremely confused as to what it may. Cooling system pressure test is at what 14 PSI and cylinder compression is at 120 PSI? Minor head gasket leak from cylinder to cooling system is more likely to give you air in the cooling system than coolant in the cylinder. Remember to refill the radiator itself when the car is cool. In my experience air pockets in the radiator and overflowing coolant reservoir is either a bad head gasket or a bad radiator cap. When I had those symptoms I replaced the $7 radiator cap first and when that didn't fix it I took it in for a head gasket check. Fortunately mine never overheated but I was diligent in topping off the RADIATOR regularly so it didn't get low enough to overheat. When I swapped my coolant I didn't have any problems with air pockets but I used one of these funnels: Lisle 24680 Spill-Free Funnel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A6AS6LY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bpmTzbQ0ZXBW1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spacejam Posted September 11, 2017 Author Share Posted September 11, 2017 Okay, so an update... Shop called on Friday and did another test and the head gaskets failed. Initially they did the test, and they passed. Don't know how they passed, and then failed. I am very upset with this specific shop, and did not want to go to them in the first place, however, I did not want to risk driving my car while overheating any further than I needed to, so this shop was the closest. I am taking it into the dealer to get a second opinion to BE SURE it is the head gaskets, before I drop another pretty penny on a fix. The shop I went to did offer a deal if it is the head gasket issue. Hoping this fixes the problem. Thank you for the radiator cap issue as well, I will check into that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted September 11, 2017 Share Posted September 11, 2017 That sucks. I'll tell you, the dealer will pressurize the system and more than likely will say the car is fine. I would just be ready to get the head gaskets replaced. Since it's a 2011, I would also call Subby Corp and see if they will kick down some $$$ on the parts or labor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spacejam Posted September 12, 2017 Author Share Posted September 12, 2017 Told the shop to pull the trigger on replacing the head gaskets. Called the dealer last night and they quoted me at $2500 for head gasket replacement. Wasnt planning on going through the dealer but wanted a second opinion. Then thought to myself, what else could it be that is causing it to overheat? Safe bet is to get the head gaskets replaced (regardless of how much money I have spent these last 6 months roughly $4500 new brakes, tires, water pump and now gaskets). I have not prepared myself for what to do if it still overheats after the head gaskets are replaced. Confident it won't overheat anymore. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgoodhue Posted September 12, 2017 Share Posted September 12, 2017 I have heard of owner paying around $2K for head gaskets. For dealer rates its probably about right. if you didn't replace the timing belt with the water pump you should have that done as well since its due at 105k. I don't know if it makes you feel any better, but it seem like looking at the 4th gen 2.5i that leaking head gaskets for the 2.5i are inevitable unless Subaru change the head gaskets between the generations. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gimpydingo Posted September 12, 2017 Share Posted September 12, 2017 I believe they have revised the gaskets after the issues with the older versions, which his 2011 should have. I will say it again, call Subby Corp and play super nice, telling them how you are valuable customer and love the brand just to see what they can do about reimbursing you some $$$ 1-800-782-2783 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nads Posted September 13, 2017 Share Posted September 13, 2017 Be sure they check the deck of the block and heads for warping. Sometimes blown head gaskets happen between cylinders and don't get into the oil/water. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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